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The Bitch is Back!

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Been a while since my last entry. I've kept busy messing with finding a vibration and fixing tranny and engine oil leaks. The engine had a pretty good leak at the rear main. Now I normally don't believe in snake oil, but several guys over at Mustang Steve .com highly recommended Blue Devil brand rear main sealer. Added it to the oil and took a couple of short trips for two days. It pert near stopped the flow completely to a mere drip now and then, which I can live with. 

 I fixed (so far) the FMX tranny leak by using The Right Stuff in place of a standard gasket. While the pan was off I welded on a fluid temp sender bung and a drain plug. Hopefully I won't find anymore red fluid on the shop floor.

The drive train vibration turned out to be caused by having the 9 inch pinion angle way off. I had set it a good while back but don't remember adjusting it when I changed the rear coil over mounting points and raised the rear height.

I spent today tearing down a 9 inch rear axle I picked up years ago at Pick a Part. Got a pleasant surprise when I found it had a traction lok 31 spline with 3.50 gears. Boxed up the gears to ship to Fresno for my good brother who's building a couple of carriers for me. The other will have a 2.50 ratio traction lok for long distance highway trips.

Almost forgot, about a week ago I got fed up with the 1k rpm drone of my Thrush Turbo mufflers. Odd thing is I had them on my FE powered 56 F100 and they were nearly silent. I'm guessing twice the hp, headers and 2-1/2" pipes changes things. Welded on a pair of Dynomax stainless mufflers, which other than having a bit of a metallic sound, are sans the drone.

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If I had the extra 100 hours to do the side exhaust, I certainly don't have the drive, patience or skill level Mike has. Maybe if I make my Florida trip later this year I can swing up to North Carolina and have lator do mine in couple of days, since the second one is always easier ;)

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Removed the noisy slipping traction lok 3.50 gears in favor of a rebuilt N case, traction lok with 3.25 gears. Halfway there. Tell me again why I built the shop with an 8 foot ceiling instead of 10 or 12 foot so I could fit a lift in there? This lying on the floor to work on cars is for the birds. A local race car fab shop turned me into a Felpro #2302 carrier gasketmakes with a steel core that's reusable according to them, we'll see.

N case.JPG

N case.JPG

rear axle.jpg

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I used to have several N cases ,down to three .i have one set up for drag racing with a 35 spline spool and 5:30 -1 gears .I will probably pull that one apart and do a Detroit locker and 3:50s for my 69 .even have one of the early ones that didnt have the N in the center 

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6 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

I used to have several N cases ,down to three .

Hoarder!

Oh btw, I lucked out, mine has the Daytona bearing support :)

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Being as lazy as I am, if I built it I'd probably use the crush sleeve. But seeing that my brother is building it and doesn't do anything had arsed, he uses the shims.

Having issues where nearly every reply I make comes up as a quote.

On 6/3/2017 at 7:24 PM, Ridge Runner said:

 

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Now see what you have done gone and done ,i had to take mine apart .Got me all greasy ...on a Sundy even ,i dont like getting greasy on a monday ,tuesday wednesday or any day much less a Sunday. Oh well its done now :)

Turns out it has 5.14 but they have only about 200 drag race miles and they look good. This one has a billet aluminum pinnion carier,and billet steel caps,and it only has a 31 spline miny spool.any one need a miny spool and some 5.14s

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I take no responsibility for your foolishness Jim. 5.14s are a pretty popular gear on this forum eh? :) Ha, but I do feel you pain! I got to my brothers house in Fresno about 7:30 last night to pick up my 3.25 N case 9 inch carrier and drop off the 3.50 ratio. Change of plans, we (mostly he) ended up changing out the 3.50 pumpkin to 2.50 gears and doing some machine work on a side gear to convert it from an open gear to a traction lok style gear. We also changed the hat from a T/L I had. However it was filthy and took about 45 minutes just to clean off the cooked on oil. The rebuild sounded like a good idea at the time. I headed home at midnight. Woke up at 6:45 to watch two of the grandkids. Oy!

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Got the third member installed and rear axle buttoned up. Made some progress on picking the location of the power window switches, door locks, fuel pump cutoff switch and fabbing a switch panel. The switches will go in the center console glove box and hidden from view. Currently I don't think I'll use them enough to make opening the lid for use an issue.

Note to self: if you're on the phone and need to move a four inch grinder on the floor to close the shop door, use your hands not your foot. I did that yesterday which caused the switch to turn on. The flapper wheel brushed my ankle, and I turned off the grinder. No damage to my sock, so all is good. A minute later I felt a bit of pain, looked down and saw some blood. OUCH!

window switch panel.jpg

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