The Bitch is Back!

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

They said Californie was the place you need to be ...Swimming pools ,and movie stars 

[latoracing 256]

Moving right along, that's looking good.

I got my fill of snow when I lived in Utah, don't miss that snowy mess at all. I'm ready for spring!

 

[RPM 1,190]

According to an email, I've got a FedEx Freight package from MTF at my house. Can't wait to open that Christmas present!

[RPM 1,190]

Well the MTF headliner did arrive today! Very very nice unit which comes with sail panel (I really don't like that name, can you really buy something called a sail panel?) trim and A pillar trim. I was really concerned the main hoop of the roll bar would be too tight to fit the headliner thru. Oh ye of little faith, fit like it was made for it. I slid it in for a test fit and she looks so nice. I also threw down some more sound deadener on the floor till I ran out.

 

This is a product I highly recommend. Susie at Mustangs to Fear was a pleasure to speak with on the phone, and it arrived by truck in a week with a holiday in the mix.

[latoracing 256]

That is a nice fit. I like the non console look, nice and smooth.

 

How much room is between your main hoop and the roof?

 

How tight (headliner to roof) does that thing fit?

 

I will be going with MTF at some point, but mine will have to be cut. My halo is tight to the side structure plus all the cage tie ins will make it interesting. 

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks Mike, I like the looks also. For something that won't be looked at much, heck some bedliner would've been ok for the okie in me.

 

I used a deep socket to check the spacing between the roof and bar when I was fitting it, and I think it was between 1-1/8 and 1-1/4".

 

Because it is only held in place with the clamps which allow some movement, and not secured with screws I'm not certain of how tight the fit is between the headliner and roof. But messing with it last night I figure in the center there is around 1/2" gap.

 

I'll get back at it today and let you know after I run some errands and the shop warms up to my liking. After all, it did drop down to a brisk 44* this morning :)

[RPM 1,190]

Short story is that I have 3-1/2" of headroom with the headliner screwed and bolted into place, and the seat mounts sitting directly on the seat riser, which is plenty for my 6' 2-1/4" body. I plan on carpeting around the seat frame mount.

 

The headliner to rollbar clearance is only 1/4" at the corners, as my bar has a flat top bar of the main hoop. I'm pretty sure I'll add some main hoop to upper seat belt mount brackets to tie the main hoop to the B pillar. MTF has these brackets on some of their bars, and I like the idea of tying in the upper B pillar to the main hoop, to compliment the already added a lower bracket for the main hoop.

[RPM 1,190]

Got the hedders back from the plater with a fresh coat of zinc. Next up is to finish up the exhaust. I'm glad now that I cut them up and re routed the tubes. Before and after pics.

 

 

 

[Ash 145]

How much better do they look!!

[RPM 1,190]

A bunch, me thinks.

[latoracing 256]

Those turned out nice and shiny. Didn't think the zinc would come out that lustrous. Hope mine will turn out  as good (if I get started on them). 

[RPM 1,190]

Had quite a bit of time consuming fun fitting the remaining sound deadener in the transmission tunnel hump under the dash, back seat and wheelhouse areas. My boy has been on my arse to get the trunk going. The battery and stereo equipment will be housed there, with space for a good sized suitcase. A removeable lid will go over the gas tank. With the trap door lifted I'll be able to fit my golf clubs :)

[Vicfreg 771]

Wow. Looks good. I am very interested in your current trunk project. I am planning something similar for audio and rear mount battery. Are you using MDF or plywood? Are you going to put a solid piece in between the back seat plate and the trunk? Thanks! Vic

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks Vic. Truth be told, my boy is doing 99% of the work. The material is MDF in 1/2" and 5/8". Yes, there is a full width panel across the back, which will have something added to it to break up the large flat area.

[Ash 145]

Looking tidy, Bob.

 

I know you're not silly but I hope you are wearing a face mask of some sort when cutting the MDF up. I can't touch it anymore. After working with it or similar glued board, my ears and nose bleed. Just a whiff of it now and I can feel the tickle in my throat start.

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks Ash. Ya, we're using a respirator and cheepy dust mask.

[Vicfreg 771]

Wow, that's nice work.  How is he attaching the MDF....?     Nice job on the vent mesh on the passenger side.  I assume he will cover in carpet/vinyl when done?

[Vicfreg 771]

Oh, on the MDF, I used to run Safety for my company.  MDF has Formaldehyde in it, which some people are allergic to.  You can download the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on line, which gives you the Protective Equipment recommendations.

[RPM 1,190]

Wow, that's nice work.  How is he attaching the MDF....?     Nice job on the vent mesh on the passenger side.  I assume he will cover in carpet/vinyl when done?

Thanks. He said it's a trade secret, sorry. The floor is sitting on cleats or spacers which are glued to the floor of the car. The MDF floor is then brad nailed to the cleats. I had a piece of aluminum mesh that we thought would work and look nice for a bit of ventilation for the amp. Then I brought up using some for the sub woofer inlay. I couldn't find any more remnant aluminum so I picked up a piece of stainless, which both are now made from.

 

Yes, the MDF will be covered in a grey and black 2 tone material for the bottom and sides to break it up. My boy used to install stereos for a living and has been fired up about doing it. Me, not so much excitement and I would've been content with the stock look.

 

 

Oh, on the MDF, I used to run Safety for my company.  MDF has Formaldehyde in it, which some people are allergic to.  You can download the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on line, which gives you the Protective Equipment recommendations.

Yikes, goofy stuff. And I'd only heard it used for embalming. Thanks for the info.

[RPM 1,190]

I'm looking into changing the brake pedal pad, not the rubber cover but the metal piece. Do any of y'all have any experience doing this? The stock pad appears to have a plug weld from the front, which could be ground off to make way for a new one. The pad pic is the one from Lokar I'm going to use. Anybody have a reason I shouldn't do this swap? I just love the look of the oval shape and lightening holes with the raised edge grip. Gives it a pseudo race car/trying to be a cool guy/wantabe look.

 

I borrowed without permission (ok, stole it) the image showing the pedal from a member from here. In the center of the pedal you can kinda see the plug weld. Ya, I know that is the clutch pedal, but the theory is the same.

[Vicfreg 771]

Thanks. He said it's a trade secret, sorry. The floor is sitting on cleats or spacers which are glued to the floor of the car. The MDF floor is then brad nailed to the cleats. I had a piece of aluminum mesh that we thought would work and look nice for a bit of ventilation for the amp. Then I brought up using some for the sub woofer inlay. I couldn't find any more remnant aluminum so I picked up a piece of stainless, which both are now made from.

 

Yes, the MDF will be covered in a grey and black 2 tone material for the bottom and sides to break it up. My boy used to install stereos for a living and has been fired up about doing it. Me, not so much excitement and I would've been content with the stock look.

 

 

 

Yikes, goofy stuff. And I'd only heard it used for embalming. Thanks for the info.

How cool with the spacer idea.   

[RPM 1,190]

From the Dept of Redundancy Department, I finished up (riiight!) another set of front control arms and dropped them off to get zinc plated. These are larger diameter and wall thickness than the first set, along with a few other mods. The upper ball joint sleeve is moved back a bit from the centerline to have some built in caster.

 

I thought I could mount the sway bar link directly above the lower control arm, but with the car lowered the sway bar end is rotated forward already too much. So bored a 3/4" hole in the lower control arm and welded in some 3/4 x .120 wall tube for the lower sway bar link bolt mount, and made a better looking to me top mount. The link is made up with a couple of QA1 XM rod ends and a home made threaded adjuster from hex bar.

 

The stereo is all wired up, just gotta make up my mind on a head unit. The stereo install wasn't a priority now but I needed to take advantage of my boy's talent when he's available and willing.

 

I haven't installed the instrument cluster/clock bezel and dash pad as I've been dragging my feet on a couple of electrical tasks which need completed before it's buttoned up. What I really need to do is finish the fuel line hook up, get some exhaust tubing welded so I can fire this dog up again.

[premix 12]

Awesome fabrication skills, can't wait to see this completed. It's been a while coming I see but you can't rush perfection :)

[Ash 145]

Looking at those photos, Bob, I get the feeling this is not your first time fabricating? hehe. Very nice work!

[latoracing 256]

From the Dept of Redundancy Department, I finished up (riiight!) another set of front control arms and dropped them off to get zinc plated. These are larger diameter and wall thickness than the first set, along with a few other mods. The upper ball joint sleeve is moved back a bit from the centerline to have some built in caster.

 

I thought I could mount the sway bar link directly above the lower control arm, but with the car lowered the sway bar end is rotated forward already too much. So bored a 3/4" hole in the lower control arm and welded in some 3/4 x .120 wall tube for the lower sway bar link bolt mount, and made a better looking to me top mount. The link is made up with a couple of QA1 XM rod ends and a home made threaded adjuster from hex bar.

 

The stereo is all wired up, just gotta make up my mind on a head unit. The stereo install wasn't a priority now but I needed to take advantage of my boy's talent when he's available and willing.

 

I haven't installed the instrument cluster/clock bezel and dash pad as I've been dragging my feet on a couple of electrical tasks which need completed before it's buttoned up. What I really need to do is finish the fuel line hook up, get some exhaust tubing welded so I can fire this dog up again.

 

Control arms turned out nice (again lol). Looks like these will be able to take a beating, much goodlier. Top notch, as always!

 

You've got to do something fun with the exhaust, you just don't know what you're missing out on.