The Bitch is Back!

[Mach427 10]

Nice! Very inspiring work... yours and Latoracing's threads are the only two that I am subscribed to.

 

I wish I had found my lathe before I bought my Baer Trackers a couple of years ago. I can't recover that cost now, but the future should be very interesting.

 

In case you're wondering, the Baer parts are made from inch and a quarter aluminum hex bar though they don't specify the grade.

 

Allan

[RPM 1,190]

Well thank you Mach427. But don't limit your scope of possible education. There are many here that I learn from daily. 'Ol latoracing does professional caliber work and I feel like a rookie based on his stuff.

 

My lathe paid for itself the first time I used it. The axle tube ends on the rear 9" housing were way off and I wanted to bolt the rear disc caliper brackets to them. So I chucked the bare housing up and cleaned up the vertical flange surface.

 

Thanks for the info on the Baer adjusters. Baer makes a top shelf product line. My car is more along the old school hotrod way of thinking. I used many parts from less expensive bone yard wrecks. I figure why pay top dollar when I can make a part for a fraction of buying one, or make fit a used or take off part. Roush, Saleen and others have nice take off parts at low prices.

 

Bob

[70fastbak 16]

Been on this forum since March and only just read your full build thread, sorry.

Fabulous work on the lathe, it makes me want to get mine working.

Great build too.

The rolling of the rear quarter lips I have to agree is a PITA.

I did mine the same way you did yours, hammer hammer n hammer....then aching forearms the next day but like yourself id do it again if I had too.

Edited August 1, 2014 by 70fastbak

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks 70fb for the kind words. No need to be sorry, five months goes by in a blink. I tore this car down about 180 months ago!

 

Yes, get your lathe up and running. They are so cool, from simple clean up of stuff with steel wool or emery cloth to making things. You can Google your make and model for all kinds of info.

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

So over the past few days I've drug the wiring harness down from 15 years without looking at it. Saturday I separated the front, under dash and rear section, laid them out and scratched my head. I noticed several hand written tags labeling the wire. Looking closer I noticed they are written by my 30 year old daughter who was 15 at the time. Wtf? I have no recollection of her helping me with the teardown. I'm blaming the bad memory on too many concussions, not being 58!

I contact her and asked her about it. Oh yes, she remembers it clearly. I asked her if her helping me more than the two boys have meant she expects to get the Mach One when I assume room temperature. She answered yes, but I thought you would be finished rebuilding it when I was 18, not 30. Yeah, me too.

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

Received some rebuild parts for the auto shifter. Pretty simple to do, not too many parts to replace, but what a world of difference in how it functions. I highly recommend changing the shifter lever bushings if you have slop in your automatic.

 

Bob

 

 

[RPM 1,190]

Because I can't leave well enough alone, I decided to fix the routing of the drivers side header. My best guess is that I have this subconscious desire to never finish the Mustang because I enjoy fab work more than driving. I believe Hedman tried to make one fits all header that pleases no one. The number seven cylinder header tube went up and over the number eight tube, which caused it to be very close to the brake lines and booster.

 

I was just going to reroute 2 or 3 tubes but fingered while I'm at it might as well do all 4. Because I'm trying to do a budget build I used the original tubes. I did have to use 8" of new tubing. I tacked them with a mig and will weld them up with a tig. I'll have more than enough power so I wasn't worried about turbulence from all the welds, or the looks as most of the welds are hidden. I was never able to install or remove the stock headers without lifting the motor some when they were stock, however they slide right in and out without any issues now.

 

Before pic.

 

 

 

Another before.

 

 

 

Rerouted and tacked.

 

 

 

Trial installation.

 

 

 

 

 

Bob

[Rip Rock 13]

That looks very good. Nice job. Nothing's worse than headers.

[latoracing 256]

Was there anything left of the factory routing? Looks like you would have been better off getting a bunch of bends, some flanges, and a couple of collectors. (LOL) Gotta love making stuff work, nice job and I'm sure they fit much better than before. With that much effort, be sure to get them coated so they will last.

 

Custom header's by Bob...

[stangnet33 88]

That would keep one busy ! Looks like it turned out great, nice work Bob.

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks guys. Any factory routing left? Not too much really. The #5 cylinder tube is closest to original. I don't know why Hedman didn't just make the drivers side look like the passenger side. Too easy I guess.

 

 

 

 

Right side header, pretty simple eh? However the #1 cylinder tube is about 1/4" from the shock tower, so maybe some massaging is in order.

 

 

 

Nice tube shape at flange on cylinder #7, sheesh. I secured the flange and collector so they would hopefully end up in the same spot. I had some serious questions about my mental health after I cut out the four tubes.

 

 

 

 

It did keep me busy for several days. I moved the disc/belt sander and portable vise outside to keep the shop cleaner, so I ended up walking a few miles fitting the tubes. It was mainly a cerebral task. Visualizing tube routes, then matching them up with what I had on hand. Because of the routing of the #7 tube at the flange I had to make a starter tube, then cut several angled pieces to make the tight radius.

 

 

 

 

I bought this metal fabrication book back in the early 80's when books were king and you tube wasn't around. Tons of good info in it pre internet. Ron Fournier does have several you tube vids.

 

 

 

I plan on getting the headers zink plated. One of my brothers (all three are much smarter than me) has had a couple of sets of headers zink coated. It sounds goofy but they turned out very nice, hold up well to heat and don't cost too much.

 

 

Bob

Edited September 9, 2014 by RPM

[Mach427 10]

Looks like the driver's side is designed to clear a z-bar. A set of headers specifically made for an automatic would likely be routed better.

 

Congrats on the successful header rebuild.

 

Allan

[RPM 1,190]

Yep Allan, I agree on the z bar. I've been a tight arse on this build and I went with the cheapy Hedmans. My biggest complaint is the flange is only 3/16", as opposed to 3/8" on good headers. I didn't realize the routing until recently which is all on me. These are the first and only headers I've bought, education is not free :)

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

A while back I was moaning about not having a tig welder after selling my last two. I believe it was Mike latoracing who said to just get one. I was about ready to buy a used machine and contacted a buddy who is a welding instructor at the local junior college. I thought he might have some knowledge on the used machine I was looking at. He put me in touch with a former student who now works for Miller, who recommended a Miller 180 Diversion. He said he'd get me a good deal on it but didn't have a price, but it would probably be around the price of a used welder. I ordered it thru a local welding store without a clue what the price would be. Miller's website has them going for $1,995. The best price I could find on line was $1,875.00, which is about $200 more than I paid for my last tig, a Miller Syncrowave180 sd in 2005.

 

So I get a call from the welding store saying the machine is in. Ya, how much? $1,275.00. Hot damn, I'll be right down. Can't wait to fire up this thing and get my headers welded. I'm not really a materialistic show off kind of guy, but I feel like a 6 year old on Christmas. Thanks for the push Mike.

 

Bob

[stangme428 33]

awesome ... congrats on the new gear RPM .... a welding class at the local tech school is on my bucket list!:biggrin:

[latoracing 256]

A while back I was moaning about not having a tig welder after selling my last two. I believe it was Mike latoracing who said to just get one. I was about ready to buy a used machine and contacted a buddy who is a welding instructor at the local junior college. I thought he might have some knowledge on the used machine I was looking at. He put me in touch with a former student who now works for Miller, who recommended a Miller 180 Diversion. He said he'd get me a good deal on it but didn't have a price, but it would probably be around the price of a used welder. I ordered it thru a local welding store without a clue what the price would be. Miller's website has them going for $1,995. The best price I could find on line was $1,875.00, which is about $200 more than I paid for my last tig, a Miller Syncrowave180 sd in 2005.

 

So I get a call from the welding store saying the machine is in. Ya, how much? $1,275.00. Hot damn, I'll be right down. Can't wait to fire up this thing and get my headers welded. I'm not really a materialistic show off kind of guy, but I feel like a 6 year old on Christmas. Thanks for the push Mike.

 

Bob

 

If a new TIG welder (at a fantastic price by the way) can make you feel like a 6 year old, might be just the ticket for the "ho hums". Being excited about a new toy is always cause for some sharing. Now go put it to good use, and show us what you can do!

[RPM 1,190]

My new Miller diversion 180 is the first welder I got without a cart. So I figured I'd modify my mig cart to handle both. Needed two tanks as the tig uses 100% argon.

 

 

 

 

I'd rather be welding 1/8" or 3/16" thick metal instead of the 18 or whatever gauge tube the headers are. I'm afraid to add up the number of inches of welds the header will need. It seemed lime a good idea at the time I cut them up.

 

The water cooled tig is smaller and easier to handle than this air cooled torch imho. And I forgot how clean using a tig is compared to a mig, and really happy I bit the bullet and bought one. I better get busy welding so I can finish these headers before Christmas.

 

 

 

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

Finally completed welding the drivers side header back together. Besides the benefit of the third tube back not being close to the brake lines and brake power booster, the header can be removed and installed without lifting the engine which is lowered about half an inch. I'm in the process of moving the front tube on the right side header because it's about 1/8" from the shock tower. Hopefully I'll be able to r&i the passenger side header without lifting the engine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm still contemplating a gusset design for door bar lower end of the roll bar which is mounted to the floor. Need to quit thinking and pull the trigger.

 

 

 

 

 

I sure like this small tig. Only draw back so far is that I can't change it to a water cooled torch because the cables are hard wired. Normally the brass block is on the front of the machine that connects the cables and water line. The Diversion has the connection inside and without a block for coolant. Or so says a tech at Miller. I have a Miller Radiator 1 and located a new used water cooled torch for $100 that I would have used for the conversion. The benefit is better cooling and a smaller torch, oh well.

 

Thought I'd throw in a pic here of the finished and zinc plated headers.

 

Bob

[MikeStang 247]

yeah I really hate you now I want a Tig So bad

[RPM 1,190]

Well Mike, just do what I did. Follow latoracing's build thread, comment on how nice his tig welding skills are, then complain about not having one. latoracing will advise you to take the plunge and just get one. Easy peasy. Seriously, hit craigslist within a comfortable driving distance for you. There are plenty of good used units for sale. If you have questions about a machine, ask here or on the Miller or Lincoln welding forums.

 

Bob

[latoracing 256]

Well Mike, just do what I did. Follow latoracing's build thread, comment on how nice his tig welding skills are, then complain about not having one. latoracing will advise you to take the plunge and just get one. Easy peasy. Seriously, hit craigslist within a comfortable driving distance for you. There are plenty of good used units for sale. If you have questions about a machine, ask here or on the Miller or Lincoln welding forums.

 

Bob

 

I didn't have to twist too hard to convince you to get one. I can't live without mine, and you look like you have put your new Miller to some extremely good use. I'm looking forward to seeing more projects built with it.

 

Still can't believe the deal you got on that machine.

[RPM 1,190]

No you didn't, but you did get my mind set on it. I'm still giddy on the deal Mike, but I lied about the price of the welder. I looked at the receipt the other day and my cost wasn't $1,275.00, it was $1,270.00 :) It pays to have good friends in the right places. Foolishly I was contemplating just getting a dc machine to cut costs, glad I didn't.

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

I've been doing little stuff lately, and redoing things I didn't like. One of them was the upper rear control arms. Yep, I know they'll never be seen. When I was aligning the rear axle I noticed things didn't look right or measure right. I find out the rear spring pads aren't equidistant to the axle housing end. My lower control arm brackets bolt to them. Nice. Should've removed them and welded the brackets to the housing. Absolutely nothing on this car is symmetrical. I ran this by my brother and engineer nephew and received the following info on the GT40.

 

"...But as the reverse engineering got spooled up, the engineers in Poland noticed what aficionados of these cars have always known: that the AC-built original Cobras were terribly out of whack in places.

 

"Did we copy these cars exactly?" David asks. "My gosh, if you could see some of the original left-to-right measurements you would die. We're talking an eight of an inch here, a half-inch difference in suspension measurements in unwrecked vehicles? Aparallelism is in the frame by one-sixteenth of an inch over eight inches. What is that, a degree, two degrees?"

 

"The guys were drunk when they welded these things together," he says. "AC was stoned or something."

 

Since those million dollar cars did ok in competition, I don't think I'll worry about it too much more.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I bought a Miller Syncrowave 180 sd several years ago ,only used it about 4 times .the thing is when you need it ,you need it .

I welded the bed walls for for my 66 Ford prerunner ,all out of aluminum ,came out really nice .I think i can weld aluminum better than steel .I still have a full bottle on it .I made my own stand because i went with the big bottle and i needed it to be strong enough to hold the bottle and the welder .I have some aluminum fab work coming up ,just hope i still remember how to use it .

[Ash 145]

Just caught up on some of your posts, Bob. I have to agree, jumping in and buying a TIG was a great move. I wish I did it much earlier. I got myself an AC/DC 185 inverter. I had nil experience when I got it though and spent about a month watching online tutorials and lots of reading. Next I need to get myself a pedal and try that out. It's so addictive but even though I laughed at first from the welding tips and tricks advice, not to talk to the wife or girlfriend about welding as it'll bore the crap out of them, it soon turned out to be true. My wife had zero interest in post flow, pulse, tungsten angle or anything else of that cool stuff.