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Headers and plug wires dont mix

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:helpsmilie:I have burned up 2 sets of plug wires because they lay on top or touch my shorty headers. Even using the Taylor socks and ACCEL 300+ wires this happens. Does anyone know what I can put on the wires to stop this from burning up a third set? I have a 351w hedmon shorty headers, HEI ignition aftermarket heads, cam etc. Thanks in advance:shifty:

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:helpsmilie:I have burned up 2 sets of plug wires because they lay on top or touch my shorty headers. Even using the Taylor socks and ACCEL 300+ wires this happens. Does anyone know what I can put on the wires to stop this from burning up a third set? I have a 351w hedmon shorty headers, HEI ignition aftermarket heads, cam etc. Thanks in advance:shifty:

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I run long tubes and have never burnt up a set of wires once. Your problem is not finding something heat proof to protect them, it's routing them correctly so that they don't touch the headers to begin with. Look into some wire looms, anything from a really expensive fancy set of billet ones to a simple cheap plastic one that attaches to the top of the valve covers should work just fine.

 

Here are some examples: http://www.google.com/images?rlz=1T4SUNA_enUS267US267&q=spark+plug+wire+loom&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=_x0iTNPQIcWBlAeDyr0_&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=7&ved=0CDcQsAQwBg

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I run long tubes and have never burnt up a set of wires once. Your problem is not finding something heat proof to protect them, it's routing them correctly so that they don't touch the headers to begin with. Look into some wire looms, anything from a really expensive fancy set of billet ones to a simple cheap plastic one that attaches to the top of the valve covers should work just fine.

 

Here are some examples: http://www.google.com/images?rlz=1T4SUNA_enUS267US267&q=spark+plug+wire+loom&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=_x0iTNPQIcWBlAeDyr0_&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=7&ved=0CDcQsAQwBg

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The socks go a long way to help. If I was you, I would look into getting wires with a different style boot at the plug end. Straight, 45 Degree, and 90 degree boots are all common and easily found.

 

I've personally found that the 45* boots, with socks works great.

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The socks go a long way to help. If I was you, I would look into getting wires with a different style boot at the plug end. Straight, 45 Degree, and 90 degree boots are all common and easily found.

 

I've personally found that the 45* boots, with socks works great.

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Not sure how your shotries are configured, but you may consider running the wires around the front of the engine and them coming in from the bottm like they did on alot of GM's its a PITA but makes for a much cleaner engine compartment and may save u a set of wires.

Just a thought

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Not sure how your shotries are configured, but you may consider running the wires around the front of the engine and them coming in from the bottm like they did on alot of GM's its a PITA but makes for a much cleaner engine compartment and may save u a set of wires.

Just a thought

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I guess I misspoke the boot is what is getting the heat not the wires. My boots lay on top of my headers on the drivers side so I dont think wire looms will help. I saw that ACCEL makes a ceramic boot on their 9000 series. Has anyone used these before?

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I guess I misspoke the boot is what is getting the heat not the wires. My boots lay on top of my headers on the drivers side so I dont think wire looms will help. I saw that ACCEL makes a ceramic boot on their 9000 series. Has anyone used these before?

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I need to see a pic of these headers, so that I will know what NOT to get :P LOL Just messing with ya man, I have never seen a problem like your having, these things must be in some weird configuration to be burning boots....I usually just use straight and 45 boots and have never burnt up any...lets see some pics here.

Mike

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I need to see a pic of these headers, so that I will know what NOT to get :P LOL Just messing with ya man, I have never seen a problem like your having, these things must be in some weird configuration to be burning boots....I usually just use straight and 45 boots and have never burnt up any...lets see some pics here.

Mike

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I guess I misspoke the boot is what is getting the heat not the wires. My boots lay on top of my headers on the drivers side so I dont think wire looms will help. I saw that ACCEL makes a ceramic boot on their 9000 series. Has anyone used these before?

 

 

Get the wires with the 45* boots then. Problem solved.

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I guess I misspoke the boot is what is getting the heat not the wires. My boots lay on top of my headers on the drivers side so I dont think wire looms will help. I saw that ACCEL makes a ceramic boot on their 9000 series. Has anyone used these before?

 

 

Get the wires with the 45* boots then. Problem solved.

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Well that certainly clears things up, if the Johnson rod was moved over a few inches then they may clear better. That or a new set of muffler bearings could realign the whole system just enough to nudge it forward.

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Well that certainly clears things up, if the Johnson rod was moved over a few inches then they may clear better. That or a new set of muffler bearings could realign the whole system just enough to nudge it forward.

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Well that certainly clears things up, if the Johnson rod was moved over a few inches then they may clear better. That or a new set of muffler bearings could realign the whole system just enough to nudge it forward.

 

 

:lol: Now that there's funny.

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Well that certainly clears things up, if the Johnson rod was moved over a few inches then they may clear better. That or a new set of muffler bearings could realign the whole system just enough to nudge it forward.

 

 

:lol: Now that there's funny.

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