voltage regulator question

[extreme69 10]

I have a 69 coupe with a 351w and at idle the volts gauge says 12v then when i go over like 2500 rpm it climbs to 16v and stays till I shift up. I know 16v is high, my question is, how do i fix this? I am assume that the voltage regulator isnt doing its job, when I take the cover off what should I be looking to adjust?

 

Thanks in advance

[foothilltom 33]

I was under the impression that a voltage regulator is a solid-state device with no adjustments. It either works or it doesn't.

 

As always, I could be wrong (and often am).

[extreme69 10]

you might be. the car is twice my age so I am still finding out all of these fun little facts

[bigperm2 10]

In my experience, it should be around 14 volts in at around 1500 RMP. 16 volts is high. Did you verify with a multimeter that the gauge is correct? I believe most of the regulators are solid state, but maybe some of the older ones may not be, but the tabs do the same thing anyway. If you are taking it apart, it is time for a new one, unless you have the original ford regulator, and have a concorse restoration. The original ford part I believe is quite reliable, I am certain my Dads 180k original mile 68 mustang still has the same regulator that was in it new. I have had problems with the cheap made in china regulators.

[69RavenConv 286]

Except for the radio, very little on a '69 is solid state. Mostly it's electro-mechanical. I'm pretty sure the original regulator is a bimetallic device (although I've never taken one apart). Contacts are closed like a relay, then heat from the current flowing thru them opens them back up and the process repeats. The capacitance of the vehicle's electrical load causes the alternating voltage to average out at some targetted DC value.

 

Below is a detail from the wiring diagram that seems to confirm this. Try drilling out the rivets and see if there's anything inside that can be fixed with solder, cleaning, or new wire. If not, replacements aren't too expensive.

 

Oh yeah, good advice from BigPerm, too. It's normal for the voltage to vary a little with RPM on these systems, so check it with an accurate meter to be sure it's not ok

Like I said, I've never seen one taken apart, so someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Edited June 8, 2010 by 69RavenConv
Props to BigPerm2

[LindenBruce 27]

Except for the radio, very little on a '69 is solid state. Mostly it's electro-mechanical. I'm pretty sure the original regulator is a bimetallic device (although I've never taken one apart). Contacts are closed like a relay, then heat from the current flowing thru them opens them back up and the process repeats. The capacitance of the vehicle's electrical load causes the alternating voltage to average out at some targetted DC value.

 

Below is a detail from the wiring diagram that seems to confirm this. Try drilling out the rivets and see if there's anything inside that can be fixed with solder, cleaning, or new wire. If not, replacements aren't too expensive.

 

Oh yeah, good advice from BigPerm, too. It's normal for the voltage to vary a little with RPM on these systems, so check it with an accurate meter to be sure it's not ok

Like I said, I've never seen one taken apart, so someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

 

You are correct Raven. The contact system of the electro/mechanical regulator is controlled by current flow and a spring on the back side of the contact arm which sits on top of a coil assembly. By slightly bending the one tab holding the spring opposite from the contact arm, you can adjust the tension on the spring and thus adjust how much or little the regulator puts out.

 

Just be careful as a regulator that old is probably a little brittle. It might be easier just to replace it with a modern solid state but factory looking unit. Bruce

[LindenBruce 27]

Except for the radio, very little on a '69 is solid state. Mostly it's electro-mechanical. I'm pretty sure the original regulator is a bimetallic device (although I've never taken one apart). Contacts are closed like a relay, then heat from the current flowing thru them opens them back up and the process repeats. The capacitance of the vehicle's electrical load causes the alternating voltage to average out at some targetted DC value.

 

Below is a detail from the wiring diagram that seems to confirm this. Try drilling out the rivets and see if there's anything inside that can be fixed with solder, cleaning, or new wire. If not, replacements aren't too expensive.

 

Oh yeah, good advice from BigPerm, too. It's normal for the voltage to vary a little with RPM on these systems, so check it with an accurate meter to be sure it's not ok

Like I said, I've never seen one taken apart, so someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

 

You are correct Raven. The contact system of the electro/mechanical regulator is controlled by current flow and a spring on the back side of the contact arm which sits on top of a coil assembly. By slightly bending the one tab holding the spring opposite from the contact arm, you can adjust the tension on the spring and thus adjust how much or little the regulator puts out.

 

Just be careful as a regulator that old is probably a little brittle. It might be easier just to replace it with a modern solid state but factory looking unit. Bruce

[extreme69 10]

I will try bending the tab, if that doesnt work I found out they are about 30-40 bucks so if its still going up to 16v i will replace it.

 

I did use a multimeter gauge to see it the dash gauge is correct and it is

[extreme69 10]

I will try bending the tab, if that doesnt work I found out they are about 30-40 bucks so if its still going up to 16v i will replace it.

 

I did use a multimeter gauge to see it the dash gauge is correct and it is