Angel 24 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 Just got my cobra rotors. They look sweet! The fronts look huge. Next week I start working on the car. Interior and under carriage though. So these guys wont go on for another month. Got all four on sale for $128 including tax(CA) and free shipping. Now all I need is a disc/disc master cylinder and the system is complete and ready to bolt on. Finally! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 Front and rear? What brackets did you use for the rear? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 Yes. Front and rear for that price. I have the mustang steve cobra brackets for the front and rear. If I hadn't bought all four calipers together, I probably would have done the 05-09 gt rear set up. Cobra rear are 11.65". 05 GT rear are 11.75". Minute difference but for the same price why not? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 Are spacers required to keep the same rotor/hub backspace as the old drum brakes in the rear (so your wheels BS doesn't need to be changed), or does it keep the same dimensions? I've been thinking of going to rear disc brakes, but i just bought my new wheels set to the Drum BS and i wouldn't want to run a spacer to make them work if the disc's changed that. How do you plan to get the E-brakes to work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 No. Track width is not affected. I have wheels with custom BS so that was a concern. The only kit that I know of that will affect the track width is the vintage venom kit. Their kit is designed for newer mustang wheels or wheels with a 30mm offset I think. The e-brake hooks up to my old cable using a cable from a 94-04 cobra. There's a couple guys on this forum running this kit. Check out his site, mustangsteve.com. There are also kits from street or track and ultrastang. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 8, 2010 (edited) Finally got to work on the stang today. The car has been sitting for 8 months waiting for me to have some free time. Now that school is over, I have 2 months to do as much as I can on my days off from work. I washed it and cleaned out the spider webs from the interior. Then I removed the rear windshield. I'll have the rear window trim sand blasted and powder coated when the car is almost finished. I replaced the rear seal 5 years ago when I had the car painted but forgot to use sealer between the glass and the seal. So it leaked a bit from the bottom. The seal was still in very good condition and I thought about reusing it but removing the glass without damaging the seal would've been tough. So I just cut it off. The tint also peeled off on one corner as I removed the glass so that will also have to be redone. I have Saturday, Sunday and Monday off so I should make a lot of progress over the weekend. Edited December 8, 2010 by Angel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 12, 2010 So today I removed all the interior and got to work on installing the dynamat on the roof. I removed the headliner and the insulation that I installed 5 years ago. Then I sanded off the old glue and and cleaned everything up with brake cleaner. Installing the dynamat was easy and I definitely prefer it over fatmat. The quality and ease of installation is worth the price difference. I installed fatmat on the entire floor pan a few years ago and it works well. However, it does not stick well on some places and is half as thick as dynamat. I bought the bulk pack(36sq.ft.) of dynamat extreme for $120. Only used 3 sheets for the roof. The rest will be for the firewall. When I finished with the dynamat, I sprayed 3M's super upholstery adhesive and glued the insulation over the dynamat. I used Quality heat shield and it works very well as an insulator and sound deadener. Now that its dark, Im going to start removing the tint from my windows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rudolph Schenker 14 Report post Posted December 12, 2010 Looks good! Nice work! :cool: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 looks good!! i think ill go with a similar setup.... how close are the bows for the headliner to the insulation... everything still fits? i cant remember how close the bows are to the inner roof. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 looks good!! i think ill go with a similar setup.... how close are the bows for the headliner to the insulation... everything still fits? i cant remember how close the bows are to the inner roof. I was wondering that myself, mostly on the rear bow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Here's a picture of my headliner and it also has the sound deadner installed...no issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Here's a picture of my headliner and it also has the sound deadner installed...no issues. GREAT!! thanks for the info... no more arena door slam echo...nice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) The only bow that rubbed before was the front one. When I re-install the headliner, I will probably install the front one on a lower hole. All others cleared before installing the dynamat so they should clear now too. I have most of the suspension and steering off the car now. Here's a picture comparing the cobra caliper to the granada caliper. They are almost the same size. Edited December 16, 2010 by Angel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted December 16, 2010 Do the Cobra Calipers fit tight onto the granada spindles? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 17, 2010 No they dont. Although similar size, they are different in shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 29, 2010 Well its been raining over here in SoCal so I haven't been able to work on it much but here is where I'm at as of yesterday. Front suspension, brakes, and steering is off. Rear suspension is unbolted. I just need to disconnect the rear brake line and the back end will come off completely assembled to the diff and sway bar. Power tools made quick work of all the fasteners. I need to assemble my sand blaster so I can start cleaning things up. Because of the weather, I may have to wait on sanding everything down to bare metal. If it weren't for the rain, I'd be out there right now. Oh well. Here's a picture of the crack I have on the passenger shock tower. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted December 29, 2010 Your car looked really nice in pic's, i know you needed a motor right? ...But what made you tear it all apart like that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted December 29, 2010 I know you have it all up on stands, but with only one stand up front it looks like it is going to fall. I'm guessing it wouldn't budge if you removed it, but it looks odd and scarey! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted December 29, 2010 I tore it apart because although it looked nice on the outside, the engine bay and under carriage looked horrible. Also, I needed to take some parts off to install the rack and new brakes as well so thats why I took it all off. Plus Im going to overhaul the differential and I need to fix several other things. Since its a daily driver, I want to undercoat the under carriage. It needed a full resto and I decided to just do it all at once as opposed to little by little over time. The car is actually only on four jack stands right now, plus the jack holding the diff. The two round ones in the center and the front one are there just in case it decides to fall lol. When I remove the diff I will rearrange the jacks so the car is supported at more points. And trust me, although I think its safe, I'm always cautious when Im under there hehe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 That thing is going to be awesome when you get those projects done. Part of me wants to get a R&P so I can do coil overs at the same time. The other part of me wants to save money and get the Borgeson system and stay with stock suspension. I guess it doesn't matter right now as it'll be at least a year before I do any major projects! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted December 31, 2010 That thing is going to be awesome when you get those projects done. Part of me wants to get a R&P so I can do coil overs at the same time. The other part of me wants to save money and get the Borgeson system and stay with stock suspension. I guess it doesn't matter right now as it'll be at least a year before I do any major projects! Buy the Borgeson now and when you decide to go R&P next year... Sell it to me for a reduced price! :devil2: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted January 6, 2011 Rear suspension and differential are out. As well as the gas tank. Now the hard part begins. Before installing all the new goodies, I have to strip the undercarriage and engine bay down to bare metal. One of my rear shocks leaked, so I have oil all under the body that I now have to clean up. My third member shipped today and should be arriving around Tuesday. So depending on the weather, I may start working on cleaning the rear end before sanding the body. Hopefully we will have clear sky for the rest of the month. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted January 9, 2011 Rear suspension and differential are out. As well as the gas tank. Now the hard part begins. Before installing all the new goodies, I have to strip the undercarriage and engine bay down to bare metal. One of my rear shocks leaked, so I have oil all under the body that I now have to clean up. My third member shipped today and should be arriving around Tuesday. So depending on the weather, I may start working on cleaning the rear end before sanding the body. Hopefully we will have clear sky for the rest of the month. get some simple green and an over sized toothbrush... and start scrubbing... you wont believe your eyes and you can still breathe during the process:tongue_smilie: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted January 9, 2011 I bought a gallon of purple power cleaner. Now that I think of it, that was a bad idea. That stuff will make you choke! I guess I'll return it and use something else. Simple green should do the trick. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted January 9, 2011 What's with those shocks? They have springs on them - and you have leaf springs?? What setup is that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites