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Silver_69_Coupe

My Ugly Floorpan.

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What did you have to do to get the Hydro-boost to mount up to the firewall? To the brake pedal? Does the pedal have the correct geometry for the booster? How do you figure that out. Thanks

 

I replaced the metal and drilled the new hole down about 3/4" to get it to line up in the center of the pin on the lever. And drop the mater down from the hood a little. The geometry is good but since I am using a manual pedal I have an issue with pedal travel. The brakes work but I really need to use a power pedal to gain about 1/2" of travel. I also had to modify the pedal assembly a little to create clearance to get the nuts on the bolts I installed it with.

 

The attached pics kinda show the mods. I will get some better pics and post them shortly.

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Busy Couple weeks. I finally found a donor roof. And Replaced it. Still in progress. but here is where it is now.

 

Need opinion on filling the roof to quarter seam. Can I get away with duraglass or should I invest in the setup to solder it.

 

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Got the quarters and they are not even close to perfect. Most of these pictures are the passengers side quarter.

 

Passengers side:

 

The quarter is caved in by the top edge of the wheel well. The flange is bent and there is a dent where the front upper body line ends.

 

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Drivers Side:

 

Mostly good. There is a dent where the front upper body line ends and it ends too soon.

 

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With a friends help you can work a lot of those wrinkles out with a hammer and dolly, more than likley a shrinking hammer as they're probably caused from excess heat and metal stretch. Also look into a Metal 2 Metal aluminum filler product as well. This will need to be ground not sanded but makes a crazy strong first rough pass. I have seen panels rust away and this stuff is still there.

 

Feels good though huh?:thumbup1:

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Some updates. Sorry it has been awhile I have been plugging away at it and dealing with some setbacks also.

 

Power windows are done

Power door kickers are done.

Cluster is installed and working.

Tail Lights are mostly done.

Headliner installed

Windshield installed

All Glass installed.

Power Drivers seat working

LED Tail Lights Built and working as designed.

 

I have it far enough to drive it now. But need to register and insure. I am leaving the paint for last.

 

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Sorry I don't have some better pics right now. My Camera took a dive into the river last week and it is not working so well right now. I am surprised that it works at all but it is mostly functional but today the pics are turning out really grainy. So I grabbed some that I had taken since my last post.

 

I wasn't sure about the rear window but it grew on me really fast. It turned out good.

There is still a lot of small detail bodywork but it is getting really close.

The Electrical is 99% Done. I Need to do the instrument cluster lighting. Marker Lights and Wipers.

Edited by Silver_69_Coupe

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I Decided I Hate body work!!! I like the finished product but wet sanding really takes forever.

 

We bought a new house and moved so the Stang has been on the back burner for a while. I have driven it several times and am very happy with the results. The Hydroboost and Cobra barkes are a whole different experience. I had to add shims to the upper control arm to get the alignment correct. I though I was going to have issues with pedal travel on the brakes and clutch but they work great. And the 5.0 5 Speed is soooooooo much fun to drive.

 

Currently getting it ready for paint and it is really coming along.

 

 

The picture with the windows up is with most of the body work done prior to the first guide coat.

 

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The picture with it red is guide coat. It all is gets sanded off. Warning!!! Do not use red as a guide coat it is really messy.

 

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The picture with it all masked off is after red guide coat sanding. Then two coats of high build 2K Primer,  and Black Guide Coat. This is the final stage prior to wet sanding. I started with the hood, roof and passengers side.

 

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And the last group of pictures is after wet sanding about half of the car. This part took about 14 Hours.I have not completed the lower rockers or drivers side yet. They will hopefully get done next week some time.

 

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Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. My phone camera is not the greatest.

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It is the original bumper.

 

Step By Step!!!

 

All welds should be done using a stitch or tack weld not a continuous weld.

 

Strip the chrome off.

Cut the bumper in half across the license plate hole

Cut it in half at about 1/4 inch below the outer most curve of the bumper.

Cut the rear quarter ends off at about 1/2" into the quarter.

Make brackets,

Bolt Brackets into place

Get the upper 2 Pieces where you want them and weld them to the brackets.

Add about 2" of 16 Gauge sheetmetal to the inside bottom of the upper portions Weld on the inside of the upper sections.

Set the bottom sections where you want them and weld them in place. (The gap between the bottom and top will be about 3/4")

Cut sheetmetal or use 1/8" round rod to fill in the gap between the upper and lower pieces.

Fill in the bolt holes.

Make the quarter panel ends out of 16 Gauge sheetmetal and install them

Use 1/8" round rod to get the edges close to where you want them. Tack at several locations.

Weld up the round rod.

Use a die grinder to set the gap where you want it. (The round rod should be very close to where you want the line to be) I started with 36 grit roll locks and worked down to 120 Grit.

Clean up all your welds.

Rough the bumper up with 36 or 40 grit sand paper, A D.A. sander works good for this.

Float the bumper with short strand glass body filler (AKA Duraglass) or all metal filler.

Block it out

Prime it.

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