My Ugly Floorpan.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I grabbed 2 of them from Early to Mid 90's Nissans. They both were the same. They were mounted on the passengers side. Not sure of the year. The master cylinder was a little more trial and error. I had to find one with a longer shaft. It was out of an older Nissan Like late 80's maybe.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I grabbed 2 of them from Early to Mid 90's Nissans. They both were the same. They were mounted on the passengers side. Not sure of the year. The master cylinder was a little more trial and error. I had to find one with a longer shaft. It was out of an older Nissan Like late 80's maybe.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

 

They were from speedway motors. Universal fit 3" The rearend was super easy. Make sure you have all of the old bracket cut off before you start and to set it up use 3 Jack stands. Set the rear on the new perches on 2 of the jackstands. Then use the third to set your pinion angle before you tack the stands on. My 95 17x9 Cobra R's Fit with out too much issue. and No spacers. I did have to remove the Bump stops. My 2007 17x8's Fit also with no issues. The wider axle works out great from the newer wheels. Plus you can get a Limited slip rear disk set up for really cheap.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

 

They were from speedway motors. Universal fit 3" The rearend was super easy. Make sure you have all of the old bracket cut off before you start and to set it up use 3 Jack stands. Set the rear on the new perches on 2 of the jackstands. Then use the third to set your pinion angle before you tack the stands on. My 95 17x9 Cobra R's Fit with out too much issue. and No spacers. I did have to remove the Bump stops. My 2007 17x8's Fit also with no issues. The wider axle works out great from the newer wheels. Plus you can get a Limited slip rear disk set up for really cheap.

[MustangChuck 16]

Thanks, Silver, for answering my questions! I appreciate it!

 

M/C

[MustangChuck 16]

Thanks, Silver, for answering my questions! I appreciate it!

 

M/C

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

They were from speedway motors. Universal fit 3" The rearend was super easy. Make sure you have all of the old bracket cut off before you start and to set it up use 3 Jack stands. Set the rear on the new perches on 2 of the jackstands. Then use the third to set your pinion angle before you tack the stands on. My 95 17x9 Cobra R's Fit with out too much issue. and No spacers. I did have to remove the Bump stops. My 2007 17x8's Fit also with no issues. The wider axle works out great from the newer wheels. Plus you can get a Limited slip rear disk set up for really cheap.

 

 

Tack the perches not the stands. Tacking the stands would really cause some issues when you went to install it. :)

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

They were from speedway motors. Universal fit 3" The rearend was super easy. Make sure you have all of the old bracket cut off before you start and to set it up use 3 Jack stands. Set the rear on the new perches on 2 of the jackstands. Then use the third to set your pinion angle before you tack the stands on. My 95 17x9 Cobra R's Fit with out too much issue. and No spacers. I did have to remove the Bump stops. My 2007 17x8's Fit also with no issues. The wider axle works out great from the newer wheels. Plus you can get a Limited slip rear disk set up for really cheap.

 

 

Tack the perches not the stands. Tacking the stands would really cause some issues when you went to install it. :)

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Working on the radiator area. Not done but here are some pics and some of the engine compartment

 

 

 

 

The 2 Little Holes are where the latches will mount. There will also be a safety latch on the black part in the middle. This will all get painte matched to the engine compartment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Latches on the hood side. The hood will double latch.

 

Edited August 25, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Working on the radiator area. Not done but here are some pics and some of the engine compartment

 

 

 

 

The 2 Little Holes are where the latches will mount. There will also be a safety latch on the black part in the middle. This will all get painte matched to the engine compartment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Latches on the hood side. The hood will double latch.

 

Edited August 25, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe

[MustangChuck 16]

Thanks. I figured welding the stands in was to add extra strength. ;-) I have read that some people had to fill in the hole and drill a new (smaller) hole in the perches. Did the Speedway Motors perches have the correct size hole?

 

Thanks,

M/C

[MustangChuck 16]

Thanks. I figured welding the stands in was to add extra strength. ;-) I have read that some people had to fill in the hole and drill a new (smaller) hole in the perches. Did the Speedway Motors perches have the correct size hole?

 

Thanks,

M/C

[MustangChuck 16]

I've seen other people install these. Do they really help with air flow through the radiator?

 

 

 

Whose hydroboost module? Looks like a 96-98 GT Mustang? At the moment, I am planning to use one from a '95 Chevy Astro Van, but that one looks much smaller. The Astro Van's was easy to get, plus it has a large mounting plate what should add some strength when I go to install it. I am planning to add a backing plate on the other side of the firewall for more strength.

 

M/C

[MustangChuck 16]

I've seen other people install these. Do they really help with air flow through the radiator?

 

 

 

Whose hydroboost module? Looks like a 96-98 GT Mustang? At the moment, I am planning to use one from a '95 Chevy Astro Van, but that one looks much smaller. The Astro Van's was easy to get, plus it has a large mounting plate what should add some strength when I go to install it. I am planning to add a backing plate on the other side of the firewall for more strength.

 

M/C

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Thanks. I figured welding the stands in was to add extra strength. ;-) I have read that some people had to fill in the hole and drill a new (smaller) hole in the perches. Did the Speedway Motors perches have the correct size hole?

 

Thanks,

M/C

 

The hole was too big. I had to weld and re-drill it.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Thanks. I figured welding the stands in was to add extra strength. ;-) I have read that some people had to fill in the hole and drill a new (smaller) hole in the perches. Did the Speedway Motors perches have the correct size hole?

 

Thanks,

M/C

 

The hole was too big. I had to weld and re-drill it.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I've seen other people install these. Do they really help with air flow through the radiator?

 

 

 

 

Whose hydroboost module? Looks like a 96-98 GT Mustang? At the moment, I am planning to use one from a '95 Chevy Astro Van, but that one looks much smaller. The Astro Van's was easy to get, plus it has a large mounting plate what should add some strength when I go to install it. I am planning to add a backing plate on the other side of the firewall for more strength.

 

M/C

 

I bought the entire braking system off of a 96 Cobra. So I used the entire braking system. Yes on the air flow. But I am doing it more for looks. The radiator I have is good enough to cool a 460 so air flow was not the determining factor.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I've seen other people install these. Do they really help with air flow through the radiator?

 

 

 

 

Whose hydroboost module? Looks like a 96-98 GT Mustang? At the moment, I am planning to use one from a '95 Chevy Astro Van, but that one looks much smaller. The Astro Van's was easy to get, plus it has a large mounting plate what should add some strength when I go to install it. I am planning to add a backing plate on the other side of the firewall for more strength.

 

M/C

 

I bought the entire braking system off of a 96 Cobra. So I used the entire braking system. Yes on the air flow. But I am doing it more for looks. The radiator I have is good enough to cool a 460 so air flow was not the determining factor.

[Junior2561 10]

you may have covered this, but how is the hydro boost and PS being ran? a kit? did you buy some other PS Pump? I'm pretty interested in this mod for when i hit that point in my build...

[Junior2561 10]

you may have covered this, but how is the hydro boost and PS being ran? a kit? did you buy some other PS Pump? I'm pretty interested in this mod for when i hit that point in my build...

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I am not to that yet. I am think of using a sagina pump. I will post it when I get to that part.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I am not to that yet. I am think of using a sagina pump. I will post it when I get to that part.

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Here the latest work. Way too time consuming on all of this. Probably worth it but talk about many hours. Everything was cleaned, sandblasted, brushed and then coated with a matte finish.

 

The power steering pump bracket was made by yours truly. Cut with a jig saw... I Don't think I will ever do that again. It took about 5 Hours to cut it. Next time the local machine shop will get some money from me to cut it with a Plasma cutter.

 

Ignore the ugly red cap and yellow wires. They are getting changed to black and the wires still need the brackets that I plan on making this week.

 

 

 

 

Alternator. Sandblasted clean, most of the casting texture removed with a die grinder and flapped wheel. Brushed by hand with a combination of 80 and 180 Grit papers. 80 first and then 180 just enough to take the edges down. I went with the black and brushed for 2 Reason. First some of the areas that are black are impossible to brush and Second I liked the look.

 

 

 

 

 

Valve Cover came to me scratched pretty badly so I decided to brush them. This is actually what started the whole brushed look. I liked it so much more than polished that it stuck. Same brushing technique used as with the alternator and power steering bracket.

 

 

 

 

The Fuel line will also get re-routed. I need to move it and the regulator to be able to run at the drag strip.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 6, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Latest Update. Not much to add. I am not getting much time to work on it right now. Hopefully I will get the power steering and brake booster hooked up this weekend. And fix the gas tank. The sending unit is leaking.

 

I got the shock tower brackets, braces and the fender and bumper brackets painted. I had some picture but my computer crashed on my and I lost them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Power Steering and Brake Booster Plumbing. I will change the clamps on the return line to a crimp on style. It will look a lot better.

 

Donor Data (For those considering this conversion) Prices I Paid are rough estimates

 

 

• Rack is from a 1996 Oldsmobile don't remember the model for sure but it is a J car rack. Cost $15.00 from the local scrap metal yard.
  
• Power Steering pump is from a 91 Ford E-Series van that had a 302 in it. Cost $22.00 from local used parts yard.
  
• Hydro booster is from a 1996 Cobra Mustang Included with the entire braking system Cost $100.00
  

Lines

 

• 3/8" O-Ring type hard line (AKA GM Fuel Pump repair Line) $7.00 (Pressure Side Pump Output)
  
• 10" Pressure Line With 3/8" Compression ends $35.00 (Pump Output Pressure Hose)
  
• 3/8" Bulkhead 90 with Flare nuts $12.00
  
• 3/8" Metal Line $5.00 (Pressure Side Pump Output Inside Fender)
  
• 3/8" Bulkhead 90 with Flare nuts $12.00
  
• 7/16" O-Ring type hard line $8.00 (Fender Bulkhead to Hydro-booster input)
  
• 3/8" O-Ring type hard line $7.00 (Out from Booster to Rack input)
  
• 14" Long Pressure Line With 3/8" Compression ends $50.00
  
• 7/16" O-Ring type hard line $8.00 (Input Line to Rack)
  
• 3/8" O-Ring type hard line $7.00 (Return from Rack to Pump)
  
• 3/8" Barbed T $5.00
  
• 3' of 3/8" Fuel hose $6.00
  
• 3/8" Bulkhead 90 with Flare nuts $12.00
  
• 3/8 Hard line $5.00 (Return inside fender)
  
• 3/8" Bulkhead 90 with Flare nuts $12.00
  

I put this information in here because I have had several people ask about this mod.

 

The Biggest issue I ran into with the plumbing was bending the O-Ring lines tight enough to clear the clutch slave cylinder, the oil pressure sending unit, and the frame rail at the input side of the rack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe