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Silver_69_Coupe

My Ugly Floorpan.

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This weekends progress.

 

Clutch Slave Cylinder. The springs look a little off because the fork is pull all of the was back. They don't touch the boot when the fork is aligned.

 

The master and slave cylinder are from an older Nissan Pickup and cost a total of $3.00 From the scrap metal yard. The Time involved in making it this fit was about 2 Hours including running for the springs.

 

I Could not drill the fork with a twist bit. I used a 3/8" Masonry bit and it worked great.

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.001.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.002.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.003.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.004.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.005.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.006.jpg

 

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.007.jpg

Edited by Silver_69_Coupe

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I am using the original for a safety latch and then adding two pin type latches like you find on Acura legends. The original latch still bolts in in front of the radiator but I have a piece still left to build that goes between the radiator and the grille. It will cover the top of the radiator and go out to the grill. The grille will mount to it. It is really hard to explain but hopefully you get the idea. Similar to this piece. The two holes on the outside edges of this will be latches and pins will be mounted to the bottom of the hood that go into them. Basically in the place that the hood stops are now.

 

69MU-00P.jpg

Edited by Silver_69_Coupe

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I have been working on the fun stuff.

 

Brakes in bled and working.

The wiring for start and run done.

Battery mounted in trunk.

Main 185 Amp Breaker

2/0 Wire to the starter

Alternator wire in,

Main Fuse box in (Box For 12V Constant)

Secondary Fuse box in (Box for Ignition. This box is ran off of a 100Amp Relay)

Hydraulic clutch working,

The Fuel Pump pumping

Exhaust done.

E-Brake installed (Center Pull from a 99 Mustang)

HEI Distributor installed.

 

 

It started on the first try after the motor sat for 2.5 Years.

I drove it around the block. That was about the limit since the radiator is not quite hooked up yet. Plumbed but I have to get the brackets and pullies for the accessories.

 

It is gonna be a fun car. I could tell already!!!

 

Here are some pics. They do not cover everything but they do highlight a good portion of it.

 

Starter.Wire.09.jpg

 

 

Starter.Wire.14.jpg

 

This is one FAT cable. I shouldn't have any issues getting enough juice to the gear reduction starter.

 

JulyProgress.0001.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0002.jpg

 

They driveline will get painted or replaced.

 

JulyProgress.0003.jpg

 

Seat Brackets still need paint also.

 

JulyProgress.0004.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0005.jpg

 

I may add a heat shield where the fuel line crosses the exhaust.

 

JulyProgress.0007.jpg

 

I need to add some extra support to the fuel pump bracket. it wiggles a little bit.

 

JulyProgress.0009.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0010.jpg

 

 

 

JulyProgress.0012.jpg

 

the extra hole is for the wipers and brake fluid warning light.

 

JulyProgress.0013.jpg

 

The FAT Cable will get a grommet and sealant once I find the right grommet.

 

JulyProgress.0015.jpg

 

E-Brake cables are from a 96 Cobra And the lever inside is from a 99 Mustang.

 

JulyProgress.0016.jpg

Edited by Silver_69_Coupe

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I have been working on the fun stuff.

 

Brakes in bled and working.

The wiring for start and run done.

Battery mounted in trunk.

Main 185 Amp Breaker

2/0 Wire to the starter

Alternator wire in,

Main Fuse box in (Box For 12V Constant)

Secondary Fuse box in (Box for Ignition. This box is ran off of a 100Amp Relay)

Hydraulic clutch working,

The Fuel Pump pumping

Exhaust done.

E-Brake installed (Center Pull from a 99 Mustang)

HEI Distributor installed.

 

 

It started on the first try after the motor sat for 2.5 Years.

I drove it around the block. That was about the limit since the radiator is not quite hooked up yet. Plumbed but I have to get the brackets and pullies for the accessories.

 

It is gonna be a fun car. I could tell already!!!

 

Here are some pics. They do not cover everything but they do highlight a good portion of it.

 

Starter.Wire.09.jpg

 

 

Starter.Wire.14.jpg

 

This is one FAT cable. I shouldn't have any issues getting enough juice to the gear reduction starter.

 

JulyProgress.0001.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0002.jpg

 

They driveline will get painted or replaced.

 

JulyProgress.0003.jpg

 

Seat Brackets still need paint also.

 

JulyProgress.0004.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0005.jpg

 

I may add a heat shield where the fuel line crosses the exhaust.

 

JulyProgress.0007.jpg

 

I need to add some extra support to the fuel pump bracket. it wiggles a little bit.

 

JulyProgress.0009.jpg

 

JulyProgress.0010.jpg

 

 

 

JulyProgress.0012.jpg

 

the extra hole is for the wipers and brake fluid warning light.

 

JulyProgress.0013.jpg

 

The FAT Cable will get a grommet and sealant once I find the right grommet.

 

JulyProgress.0015.jpg

 

E-Brake cables are from a 96 Cobra And the lever inside is from a 99 Mustang.

 

JulyProgress.0016.jpg

Edited by Silver_69_Coupe

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The other Side I promised.

 

The Subframe center connector is removable and will get an intergrated drive shaft loop. I will also add a front loop. Once I get everything lined up underneath.

 

2009.11.17.22.jpg

 

8.8 out of a 96 Cobra. Axle is 1" wider which makes my 17" Cobra R wheels fit perfect after removing the outside rubber nubbers. They will be moved inwards and be bolt in style.

 

2010.04.25.08.jpg

 

I LOVE that subframe connector! Is it custom made? VERY nice work! The 8.8" rear also looks great! Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

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The other Side I promised.

 

The Subframe center connector is removable and will get an intergrated drive shaft loop. I will also add a front loop. Once I get everything lined up underneath.

 

2009.11.17.22.jpg

 

8.8 out of a 96 Cobra. Axle is 1" wider which makes my 17" Cobra R wheels fit perfect after removing the outside rubber nubbers. They will be moved inwards and be bolt in style.

 

2010.04.25.08.jpg

 

I LOVE that subframe connector! Is it custom made? VERY nice work! The 8.8" rear also looks great! Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

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This weekends progress.

 

Clutch Slave Cylinder. The springs look a little off because the fork is pull all of the was back. They don't touch the boot when the fork is aligned.

 

The master and slave cylinder are from an older Nissan Pickup and cost a total of $3.00 From the scrap metal yard. The Time involved in making it this fit was about 2 Hours including running for the springs.

 

I Could not drill the fork with a twist bit. I used a 3/8" Masonry bit and it worked great.

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.001.jpg

 

 

Another awesome adaptation! Do you remember what year and model of Nissan Truck? I go junk yard hopping often and would like to try to acquire those parts. I am installing the transmission from a 94 GT, which should be physically the same as your 95 Cobra. What size springs did you use and where did you get them? Also, what are you using for a master cylinder?

 

Thanks,

M/C

Edited by MustangChuck

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This weekends progress.

 

Clutch Slave Cylinder. The springs look a little off because the fork is pull all of the was back. They don't touch the boot when the fork is aligned.

 

The master and slave cylinder are from an older Nissan Pickup and cost a total of $3.00 From the scrap metal yard. The Time involved in making it this fit was about 2 Hours including running for the springs.

 

I Could not drill the fork with a twist bit. I used a 3/8" Masonry bit and it worked great.

 

ClutchSlave%280800x0600%29.001.jpg

 

 

Another awesome adaptation! Do you remember what year and model of Nissan Truck? I go junk yard hopping often and would like to try to acquire those parts. I am installing the transmission from a 94 GT, which should be physically the same as your 95 Cobra. What size springs did you use and where did you get them? Also, what are you using for a master cylinder?

 

Thanks,

M/C

Edited by MustangChuck

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I LOVE that subframe connector! Is it custom made? VERY nice work! The 8.8" rear also looks great! Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

 

The center section of the sub=frame connector will not get installed Everything runs into it. I made it out of 3/16 Wall 2x2 Square tubing.

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I LOVE that subframe connector! Is it custom made? VERY nice work! The 8.8" rear also looks great! Whose spring perches did you use?

 

I am (hopefully) about to buy the TinMan subframe connectors to get installed along with the new floors. I like yours MUCH more. Looks like a lot of extra strength. I will also be installing an 8.8" out of a 94 GT, so if you could share any gotchas you ran across, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be running 17" rims from a '97 GT, so I am not worried about the axle being wider. It will actually allow me to remove the 1" spacers I've been using the last 8 years or so.

 

M/C

 

The center section of the sub=frame connector will not get installed Everything runs into it. I made it out of 3/16 Wall 2x2 Square tubing.

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One last thing. You installed the hand brake from a '99. That should be pretty similar to the '94 I want to install. Do you have pictures of what you did?

 

Many, many thanks!

M/C

 

The 94 is pretty much the same. If you can cut the thicker mounting parts from the donor car. Also there are 2 brackets. Make sure you make notes on the spacing between the 2 and get it the same on the retrofit.

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One last thing. You installed the hand brake from a '99. That should be pretty similar to the '94 I want to install. Do you have pictures of what you did?

 

Many, many thanks!

M/C

 

The 94 is pretty much the same. If you can cut the thicker mounting parts from the donor car. Also there are 2 brackets. Make sure you make notes on the spacing between the 2 and get it the same on the retrofit.

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I'd love to see some pics of the firewall-smooting process if you've got any. That looks very impressive!

 

I don't have any pictures of the process. It is all new sheetmetal. And it was a long project. I probably have about 80 hours into it all together. Not to mention all of the other snags I have run into while putting everything together. I did this primarily to make the Hydroboost fit and because when I went to fill the holes that were already in it the metal basically fell apart. With my welder on the lowest setting I was blowing 1/4 holes in the firewall.

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I'd love to see some pics of the firewall-smooting process if you've got any. That looks very impressive!

 

I don't have any pictures of the process. It is all new sheetmetal. And it was a long project. I probably have about 80 hours into it all together. Not to mention all of the other snags I have run into while putting everything together. I did this primarily to make the Hydroboost fit and because when I went to fill the holes that were already in it the metal basically fell apart. With my welder on the lowest setting I was blowing 1/4 holes in the firewall.

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