The T56 conversion into a 70 Mach 1

[buening 63]

Here is a picture of the ModernDriveline master cylinder assembly

 

 

The install is pretty straightforward. You locate the dimple in the firewall, drill a 1.375" hole for the master cylinder to go through, then index the lever arm plate and drill two mounting holes. From there, its just hooking up all the linkages. The firewall to the bottom right of the installed plate is not flat due to the steering column. It was a challenge getting the lever arm perfectly vertical to match the clutch pedal, but I did my best. Below are a few pics of the linkage setup.

 

 

 

 

And here is a pic of the pedals hanging. I don't have the brake booster installed yet, so I can't set the clutch pedal height until then. I plan on installing the booster towards the end of the install, so the pedal assembly is finished for now.

 

 

I am waiting on a shipment from Spec because my 28oz weight was missing from the box for my flywheel. Once that gets here, I'll be doing the actual transmission installation including the flywheel and clutch. Previous installs were for mockup and clearance checks only. Fabrication is all complete, so its all install from here. I'll report back next weekend, hopefully

[buening 63]

Here is a picture of the ModernDriveline master cylinder assembly

 

 

The install is pretty straightforward. You locate the dimple in the firewall, drill a 1.375" hole for the master cylinder to go through, then index the lever arm plate and drill two mounting holes. From there, its just hooking up all the linkages. The firewall to the bottom right of the installed plate is not flat due to the steering column. It was a challenge getting the lever arm perfectly vertical to match the clutch pedal, but I did my best. Below are a few pics of the linkage setup.

 

 

 

 

And here is a pic of the pedals hanging. I don't have the brake booster installed yet, so I can't set the clutch pedal height until then. I plan on installing the booster towards the end of the install, so the pedal assembly is finished for now.

 

 

I am waiting on a shipment from Spec because my 28oz weight was missing from the box for my flywheel. Once that gets here, I'll be doing the actual transmission installation including the flywheel and clutch. Previous installs were for mockup and clearance checks only. Fabrication is all complete, so its all install from here. I'll report back next weekend, hopefully

[buening 63]

Well I tackled the front half of the transmission install today. Below are the steps taken.

 

I first installed the pilot bearing using a bearing driver. Since it was an automatic car before, I didn't have to remove an old pilot bearing.

 

 

After the pilot bearing, I slid on the motor plate and began preparing the flywheel. I took an old Tshirt and some brake cleaner and cleaned up the friction surface of the flywheel. Regardless if it is a new or used flywheel, it is necessary to get any oil from fingers or anything that would cause clutch slippage.

 

 

 

 

I then installed the flywheel using Blue Loctite, ARP -100 - 2801 flywheel bolt kit torqued to 85 ft-lbs.

 

 

 

 

I then installed the Quicktime Bellhousing and proceeded to check it's alignment with my Mitutoyo dial indicator and starrett magnetic base. I ran into one snag, my flywheel is aluminum and aluminum is not magnetic. The friction surface is magnetic, but I was getting inconsistent readings and decided that it wasn't enough to keep the magnetic base from moving. I then removed one of the flywheel bolts and started looking around the garage for steel that would reach from one of the pressure plate bolts to the removed flywheel bolt. Ironically, a spare motor mount plate that I made was a perfect fit So I bolted that plate up and mounted the dial indicator base to the plate. That prevented the base from moving around, and got consistent readings. I started by placing tape at the 3, 6, 9, and 12:00 positions of the bellhousing. This isn't a standard bellhousing that has a complete circle to house the transmission. It has cutouts and areas that kept throwing off my readings, so I rotated those four tape locations slightly as can be seen in the pic below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used a carpenters T and straightedges to ensure the points I mark on the tape are across from each other. I then proceeded to rotate the crankshaft by the dampener and check the readings on the dial indicator. At what is supposed to be the 9:00 position I set the dial to 0. Rotating to the 12:00 position I got a reading of -.005" Rotating to the 3:00 position I got -.003" Rotating to the 6:00 position I got a -.004" So to summarize, the pair of 9:00 and 3:00 resulted in a runout of 0.003". According to my research you divide that number in half and if it is less than 0.005 you are good to go and don't need offset dowels. The pair of 12:00 and 6:00 has a difference of 0.001", so that is definitely good. Since one had a reading of -0.005 and the other had -0.004", it appears the diameter of the hole is larger than that of the other location I checked. Also, I removed the dial indicator and mounted it again and got the same measurements within a thousandth. A couple pics, but forgot to snap a pic of the 12:00 measurement

 

The 3:00 measurement:

 

The 6:00 measurement:

 

Now that the bellhousing alignment is within spec, I removed the bellhousing and proceeded to install the clutch and pressure plate. Prior to this, I got out the brake cleaner and cleaned up the surface on the flywheel as well as the pressure plate. Using the alignment tool I held the clutch centered in place while I installed the pressure plate. I used Blue Loctite and ARP - 150 -2201 pressure plate bolts torqued to 24 ft-lbs. After torqued down, I removed the alignment tool.

 

 

After that I reinstalled the bellhousing and using the supplied Gr 8 hardware I torqued the bolts down to 45 ft-lbs.

 

 

This was the progress for the day. I'll be tackling the reverse solenoid tomorrow. There is a heavy spring inside the solenoid that I'll be swapping out with a softer spring, but still heavy enough to minimize mistakenly putting the car in reverse while doing down the freeway. I'll then get the hydraulic throwout bearing installed, and raising the transmission up into place

[buening 63]

Well I tackled the front half of the transmission install today. Below are the steps taken.

 

I first installed the pilot bearing using a bearing driver. Since it was an automatic car before, I didn't have to remove an old pilot bearing.

 

 

After the pilot bearing, I slid on the motor plate and began preparing the flywheel. I took an old Tshirt and some brake cleaner and cleaned up the friction surface of the flywheel. Regardless if it is a new or used flywheel, it is necessary to get any oil from fingers or anything that would cause clutch slippage.

 

 

 

 

I then installed the flywheel using Blue Loctite, ARP -100 - 2801 flywheel bolt kit torqued to 85 ft-lbs.

 

 

 

 

I then installed the Quicktime Bellhousing and proceeded to check it's alignment with my Mitutoyo dial indicator and starrett magnetic base. I ran into one snag, my flywheel is aluminum and aluminum is not magnetic. The friction surface is magnetic, but I was getting inconsistent readings and decided that it wasn't enough to keep the magnetic base from moving. I then removed one of the flywheel bolts and started looking around the garage for steel that would reach from one of the pressure plate bolts to the removed flywheel bolt. Ironically, a spare motor mount plate that I made was a perfect fit So I bolted that plate up and mounted the dial indicator base to the plate. That prevented the base from moving around, and got consistent readings. I started by placing tape at the 3, 6, 9, and 12:00 positions of the bellhousing. This isn't a standard bellhousing that has a complete circle to house the transmission. It has cutouts and areas that kept throwing off my readings, so I rotated those four tape locations slightly as can be seen in the pic below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used a carpenters T and straightedges to ensure the points I mark on the tape are across from each other. I then proceeded to rotate the crankshaft by the dampener and check the readings on the dial indicator. At what is supposed to be the 9:00 position I set the dial to 0. Rotating to the 12:00 position I got a reading of -.005" Rotating to the 3:00 position I got -.003" Rotating to the 6:00 position I got a -.004" So to summarize, the pair of 9:00 and 3:00 resulted in a runout of 0.003". According to my research you divide that number in half and if it is less than 0.005 you are good to go and don't need offset dowels. The pair of 12:00 and 6:00 has a difference of 0.001", so that is definitely good. Since one had a reading of -0.005 and the other had -0.004", it appears the diameter of the hole is larger than that of the other location I checked. Also, I removed the dial indicator and mounted it again and got the same measurements within a thousandth. A couple pics, but forgot to snap a pic of the 12:00 measurement

 

The 3:00 measurement:

 

The 6:00 measurement:

 

Now that the bellhousing alignment is within spec, I removed the bellhousing and proceeded to install the clutch and pressure plate. Prior to this, I got out the brake cleaner and cleaned up the surface on the flywheel as well as the pressure plate. Using the alignment tool I held the clutch centered in place while I installed the pressure plate. I used Blue Loctite and ARP - 150 -2201 pressure plate bolts torqued to 24 ft-lbs. After torqued down, I removed the alignment tool.

 

 

After that I reinstalled the bellhousing and using the supplied Gr 8 hardware I torqued the bolts down to 45 ft-lbs.

 

 

This was the progress for the day. I'll be tackling the reverse solenoid tomorrow. There is a heavy spring inside the solenoid that I'll be swapping out with a softer spring, but still heavy enough to minimize mistakenly putting the car in reverse while doing down the freeway. I'll then get the hydraulic throwout bearing installed, and raising the transmission up into place

[stangme428 33]

great work!! :tongue_smilie:

[stangme428 33]

great work!! :tongue_smilie:

[buening 63]

Time to tackle the reverse lockout solenoid. There are a few posts on random forums about what to do with the reverse lockout solenoid. The reverse lockout solenoid is controlled by the computer that activates the solenoid when the car is traveling less than 3mph and allows easy shifting into reverse. On the T56, you have 1st, 3rd, 5th, and Reverse all forward so there is a chance that the driver could mistakenly miss 5th gear and go into reverse while traveling at higher speeds. I hooked up my shifter and tried going into reverse and it darn near took two hands to shift it into reverse. Most people hook up a momentary switch to the dash and press a button each time they want to shift into reverse. To me, that is a huge pain in the arse. Others buy a shifter knob with the button and use that for the reverse solenoid switch. Others hook the solenoid up to the brake pedal, but the only down fall is that the solenoid is activated each time you touch the brakes. There are aftermarket solutions that mimic the computer, but they run about $100. The other solutions are to completely remove the solenoid and put a pipe plug in the trans (to fill the hole), or to use a softer spring. I chose to use the softer spring, which will still not be as easy to shift into reverse but won't take two hands to do it. If I find that I'm not happy with the effort, I will put the stiffer spring back in and hook the solenoid up to the brake pedal. The softer spring is going the easy route for now and may likely change my mind. So here was the process:

 

Went to Menards and bought a new spring with thinner wire

 

 

I then took the solenoid apart.

 

 

Here is a comparison of the two springs

 

 

 

I then installed the new spring, but found that it had too many windings and was basically compressed in the installed state

 

 

Easy fix. I just stretched the spring out and then cut it in half.

 

 

New spring installed:

 

 

Solenoid all assembled

 

 

Piece of cake. I still need to install the shifter to see if it made it any easier to find reverse. Up next is the brake pedal modification, since it ended up having too much space between the clutch and brake pedal pads

[buening 63]

Time to tackle the reverse lockout solenoid. There are a few posts on random forums about what to do with the reverse lockout solenoid. The reverse lockout solenoid is controlled by the computer that activates the solenoid when the car is traveling less than 3mph and allows easy shifting into reverse. On the T56, you have 1st, 3rd, 5th, and Reverse all forward so there is a chance that the driver could mistakenly miss 5th gear and go into reverse while traveling at higher speeds. I hooked up my shifter and tried going into reverse and it darn near took two hands to shift it into reverse. Most people hook up a momentary switch to the dash and press a button each time they want to shift into reverse. To me, that is a huge pain in the arse. Others buy a shifter knob with the button and use that for the reverse solenoid switch. Others hook the solenoid up to the brake pedal, but the only down fall is that the solenoid is activated each time you touch the brakes. There are aftermarket solutions that mimic the computer, but they run about $100. The other solutions are to completely remove the solenoid and put a pipe plug in the trans (to fill the hole), or to use a softer spring. I chose to use the softer spring, which will still not be as easy to shift into reverse but won't take two hands to do it. If I find that I'm not happy with the effort, I will put the stiffer spring back in and hook the solenoid up to the brake pedal. The softer spring is going the easy route for now and may likely change my mind. So here was the process:

 

Went to Menards and bought a new spring with thinner wire

 

 

I then took the solenoid apart.

 

 

Here is a comparison of the two springs

 

 

 

I then installed the new spring, but found that it had too many windings and was basically compressed in the installed state

 

 

Easy fix. I just stretched the spring out and then cut it in half.

 

 

New spring installed:

 

 

Solenoid all assembled

 

 

Piece of cake. I still need to install the shifter to see if it made it any easier to find reverse. Up next is the brake pedal modification, since it ended up having too much space between the clutch and brake pedal pads

[buening 63]

I'm actually further ahead than this post, but just update whenever I get time. I tackled bending the brake pedal. I had to bend the pedal enough so that the pad moved 1" closer to the clutch pad. Using some heat with the pedal in a vice, I was able to muscle it and bend it perfectly. The only downfall was that the pad was now crooked (due to the arm at a different angle now) when installed and was VERY noticeable. So the only thing to do was grind off the original weld and reposition. I figured that since I was already removing the pad I might as well remove the pad off the manual brake pedal and weld it onto the power brake pedal.

 

Here is the cut pad removed:

 

and here is the correct pad removed:

 

 

and finally here is it all welded up, painted, and installed. The clutch pedal is an inch or two higher than the brake pedal, which from what I've read is normal.

 

 

I also received more parts in the mail today from NPD. Notice one thing that doesn't belong? Yep, they sent the wrong clutch pad trim. I definitely am not impressed with the stainless trim on the brake pedal just by looking at it. I'm not sure if its supposed to be this way, but there is a bigger lip on the top and left side. Actually, the bigger lip looks more correct and the lower and right sides don't have enough lip. This results in a gap between the stainless and the pad.

 

 

Parts purchased were the clutch pad and trim, disc brake pad and trim, parking brake pad (trim was ok on car), 65-68 lower shift boot (cheapest cause I'll be cutting it up), shifter trim plate, parking brake return spring, clutch pedal bumper, and a parking brake cable clip that got lost somehow. FYI, the 65-68 lower shift boot does NOT fit the shifter opening since the earlier cars had a smaller shifter bezel.

[buening 63]

I'm actually further ahead than this post, but just update whenever I get time. I tackled bending the brake pedal. I had to bend the pedal enough so that the pad moved 1" closer to the clutch pad. Using some heat with the pedal in a vice, I was able to muscle it and bend it perfectly. The only downfall was that the pad was now crooked (due to the arm at a different angle now) when installed and was VERY noticeable. So the only thing to do was grind off the original weld and reposition. I figured that since I was already removing the pad I might as well remove the pad off the manual brake pedal and weld it onto the power brake pedal.

 

Here is the cut pad removed:

 

and here is the correct pad removed:

 

 

and finally here is it all welded up, painted, and installed. The clutch pedal is an inch or two higher than the brake pedal, which from what I've read is normal.

 

 

I also received more parts in the mail today from NPD. Notice one thing that doesn't belong? Yep, they sent the wrong clutch pad trim. I definitely am not impressed with the stainless trim on the brake pedal just by looking at it. I'm not sure if its supposed to be this way, but there is a bigger lip on the top and left side. Actually, the bigger lip looks more correct and the lower and right sides don't have enough lip. This results in a gap between the stainless and the pad.

 

 

Parts purchased were the clutch pad and trim, disc brake pad and trim, parking brake pad (trim was ok on car), 65-68 lower shift boot (cheapest cause I'll be cutting it up), shifter trim plate, parking brake return spring, clutch pedal bumper, and a parking brake cable clip that got lost somehow. FYI, the 65-68 lower shift boot does NOT fit the shifter opening since the earlier cars had a smaller shifter bezel.

[buening 63]

I had previously installed the hydraulic master cylinder but forgot to post about it. As shown in the first post, I'm using the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing. PLEASE NOTE: If you have a Cobra T56 you DO NOT need the sleeve that is shown in that picture. The Cobra already has the sleeve built in, so I get about $110 refund from ModernDriveline for the sleeve. This makes the hydraulic setup a bit more reasonable IMO.

 

The first thing I did was measure the depth from the pressure plate fingers to the front face of the bellhousing. Using the little pin that slides out of the caliper, you can easily measure this depth:

 

 

I measured a depth of 2.30". Using that same straightedge and caliper, I measured the depth from the trans face that meets the bellhousing to the face of the throwout bearing. The bearing comes with an aluminum spacer that must be used with this transmission. Also, the inner race of the bearing with the seals that slides onto the sleeve is threaded. I think the older hydraulic bearings used shims to adjust the height. With this one, you basically slide the bearing on and turn it to adjust it out or in. Super easy! Also note that the bleeder hose must be at the top during the final depth measurement. According to the instructions, the differences between the depths measured must be a minimum of 0.100" and a maximum of 0.300". As shown in the pic below, that measurement was 2.25" which did not meet the minimum differential. I made one more revolution and ended up with a measurement of 2.13", which results in a clearance of 0.17" and is within spec!

 

 

Here is a profile of the bearing assembly:

 

 

and another picture:

 

 

After that was all done, it was just a matter of jacking the trans up and sliding it into place. That was easier said than done as mentioned in a previous post, but it was accomplished. Here are a few pics of the installed trans with the crossmember in place.

 

 

 

[buening 63]

I had previously installed the hydraulic master cylinder but forgot to post about it. As shown in the first post, I'm using the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing. PLEASE NOTE: If you have a Cobra T56 you DO NOT need the sleeve that is shown in that picture. The Cobra already has the sleeve built in, so I get about $110 refund from ModernDriveline for the sleeve. This makes the hydraulic setup a bit more reasonable IMO.

 

The first thing I did was measure the depth from the pressure plate fingers to the front face of the bellhousing. Using the little pin that slides out of the caliper, you can easily measure this depth:

 

 

I measured a depth of 2.30". Using that same straightedge and caliper, I measured the depth from the trans face that meets the bellhousing to the face of the throwout bearing. The bearing comes with an aluminum spacer that must be used with this transmission. Also, the inner race of the bearing with the seals that slides onto the sleeve is threaded. I think the older hydraulic bearings used shims to adjust the height. With this one, you basically slide the bearing on and turn it to adjust it out or in. Super easy! Also note that the bleeder hose must be at the top during the final depth measurement. According to the instructions, the differences between the depths measured must be a minimum of 0.100" and a maximum of 0.300". As shown in the pic below, that measurement was 2.25" which did not meet the minimum differential. I made one more revolution and ended up with a measurement of 2.13", which results in a clearance of 0.17" and is within spec!

 

 

Here is a profile of the bearing assembly:

 

 

and another picture:

 

 

After that was all done, it was just a matter of jacking the trans up and sliding it into place. That was easier said than done as mentioned in a previous post, but it was accomplished. Here are a few pics of the installed trans with the crossmember in place.

 

 

 

[buening 63]

A little update. I've updated my to-do list above to show the items remaining. Today I wired up the reverse light switch. Its pretty basic install. The T56 uses the standard 2-pin Weatherpak connector on the right below, so my harness involved using the connector on the left:

 

 

 

 

My reverse light/neutral safety switch connector was cut at the underdash harness, so I connected the two red/blue wires to bypass the neutral safety and then wired up the remaining black/red wires to a weatherpak connector.

 

I forgot to paint the M/C and it was a rusty mess, so I'm waiting on the paint to dry before installing it and bleeding the brakes. I'm now going to attempt to bleed the hydraulic clutch using a Mighty Vac. Too many people try to bleed the clutch using the pedal, which creates tiny air bubbles and then complain they can't get the system fully bled. Using a handheld vac pump is the way to go to eliminate these bubbles and speed up the bleeding process.....or so I hope!

[buening 63]

I finally got to measure my angles. This is with the car still on the jack stands and the rear axle loaded under its own weight (front suspension not loaded). The engine angle is 3° down, the driveshaft angle is 2.5° down, and the pinion is 0°. The pinion and engine angle use the same part of the angle measuring device to avoid discrepancies. The engine angle was taken with the angle gauge facing the passenger side, while the angle gauge was facing the drivers side while measuring the pinion angle. I'm not sure how accurate these angle gauges are, but its all relative anyways.

[buening 63]

I am planning on starting the car once I get the alternator wire ran. I finished the parking brake solution that I had in my head, and it worked out wonderfully. Looking back now, I should have came up with this idea before painting my transmission crossmember. I started out with the stock parking brake bracket that I took off the car in order to install the trans crossmember (sorry for the fuzzy pics on some)

 

 

I then modified it by cutting it down and test fitting it in place. Since I cut it down so much, I was afraid the bracket would bend so I added a gusset. The only steel I had was 1/4", so I started with a 1/4" piece for a gusset and then filled in the left side with weld. Welding skills still aren't up to par yet but I'm getting my practice in with my die grinder.

 

Here is the gusseted bracket. I didn't bring the gusset all the way up to the top since the point of force will be at the center of the hole. I could have went up a little higher, but its not gonna move regardless.

 

 

Here is the backside

 

 

And here is the bracket welded to my transmission crossmember

 

 

 

Once that was installed, I needed to figure out the passenger side idler hook. The stock bracket was still welded to the floor pan and didn't really wanna remove it. I figured I could just mimic the hole in the stock bracket directly in my trans cross member. Two 1/2" holes spaced 1/2" apart and used a die grinder to cut the bump out.

 

 

 

This setup moves the location of the cables closer to the ground, so they now don't rub as bad on my floorpans as the did originally. The passenger exhaust clears the cable perfectly but the drivers side has the cable resting on the top of the pipe. I'm not sure what to do about that or if it really hurts anything. I may have to keep an eye on the cable to see if it frays or the heat affects it.

 

 

[buening 63]

The plan for this evening is to back the car out of the garage, run the alternator wiring, put the rear axle on stands, put fresh oil in and prime and start it up. Gonna run it through the gears to make sure all work OK and also make sure the clutch is disengaging fully. I can't get a good accurate measurement of the hydraulic throwout bearing throwout distance (tried feeler gauges but its still difficult).

[stangme428 33]

looking great!!!! cant wait to hear it... shoot some video of your test..:tongue_smilie:

[69gmachine 15]

Very nice write up, but I have to say Buening you are a bad bad man.

 

I have a perfectly good TKO 5 speed, and until this thread I was perfectly content with it:tongue_smilie: Now I'm scheming on how I'm going to put a T56 in. Bad, bad Beuning.

 

p.s. Keep the pics coming!

[buening 63]

:tongue_smilie: Come on, you know you wanna venture to the dark side of 6 speeds!!!! But in all honesty, unless you opt for the trans that has the 0.50 6th gear you won't gain much using a T56 over your TKO (assuming you don't have the road race version). Mine has a 0.62 sixth gear, which is the same or similar as the TKO if I recall correctly. You basically get a midrange 5th gear at around 0.80 to prevent the big rpm drop between gears. I found my trans cheap and I didn't have any TKO prospects, so it just made sense.

[buening 63]

It's ALIVE!!! I fired it up this evening and took it around the block. I only got it into 3rd gear at low RPMs cause its a neighborhood and my rear 3.00 gears keep the rpms low compare to where they should be. I haven't renewed my plates in a few years, so I didn't want to risk getting a ticket taking it too far from the house. There were a few issues upon returning back to the driveway. I had a pretty steady oil leak, which I am pretty sure is coming from the oil pressure sending unit extension. I traced it directly where the brass pipe threads into the block. I'm gonna have to pull the fuel pump just to get to that bugger. I also temporarily ran wiring for a fan relay to run the Taurus fan on low speed until my DCControl box gets here. Well I didn't get it tied off good enough apparently because the wires going through the old speedometer cable grommet got wrapped around the steering rag joint and tore it all to crap. Thankfully I was smart enough to use fuses, in which they blew. I got the wiring all taken care of this evening but plan on fixing the oil leak tomorrow.

 

As far as the ride, I'm already loving the manual trans. The clutch disengages too close to the floor for my taste though. ModernDriveline claims that it should disengage 1.5" from the floorboard. When the pedal travels 7", I would expect it to disengage close to midtravel....not near the bottom. They claim that is how it was designed. Anyone else experience this with a non-ModernDriveline hydraulic clutch setup??

[buening 63]

Well the celebration was short lived. After about 4 miles of some city driving, I think the hydraulic throwout bearing puked its guts. At a stoplight about a mile from my house the car bucked and then stalled. I started it back up and the clutch pedal was extremely soft. Trying to put it in gear was impossible, obvious that the hydraulic system failed and the throwout bearing wasn't moving to disengage the pressure plate. I immediately popped the hood and checked the M/C reservoir and it was full, so it's not like I ran it out of fluid.

 

I got the car towed home and won't be able to crawl under it till tomorrow. When I went back to the car to tow it there was a small puddle under the bellhousing, most likely brake fluid from the throwout bearing. I'm hoping its as easy as the bleeder fitting worked its way loose, but my luck doesn't go that way typically. I'll report back when I know more. Geez, only a few miles on it and something blows up. I need something to throw :censored:

[stangme428 33]

buening -- sorry to hear it... wish i was farther along to help ya figure it out... let us know what you find!!! hang in their!!! it will be worth it!! if it was easy... everybody would be doing it!!!:tongue_smilie:

[buening 63]

Fluid is leaking from the front and backside of the hydraulic throwout bearing. Gonna try to slide the trans back enough to get the bearing off, assuming there is enough space. Otherwise I'll have to drop the trans along with the exhaust and everything else to get to the bastad.

[buening 63]

Stangme, if you have the gray-bodied McLeod hydraulic bearing you may get in contact with ModernDriveline to see if you need to exchange it for the new red-bodied one. Bruce was saying there were problems with the gray body one and they were supposedly fixed with the red body version. FYI

[stangme428 33]

wow--- :scared:yeah its gray, ill contact bruce on monday!! thanks man!! your saving me so much trouble!!!

thanks again!:punk:

 

Stangme, if you have the gray-bodied McLeod hydraulic bearing you may get in contact with ModernDriveline to see if you need to exchange it for the new red-bodied one. Bruce was saying there were problems with the gray body one and they were supposedly fixed with the red body version. FYI