dlinebar 2 Report post Posted May 1, 2010 Hello all, I just thought I would put a post up about the front end work I did and how it effected my car. The steering has always been OK on the car but it did have a case of bump steer and sometimes tended to wonder a bit. There was some play in the steering wheel but nothing I would panic about. I have 152k on what looked like all the original steering hardware so I figured it was time to replace the tie rods even though the car was Ok. I have see high mileage newer cars with the tie rod falling off and laying on the ground so I figured for safety I would at a min replace inner and outer on both sides. So I did that, the old ones were not loose or wiggly but the boots were shot and they needed to go. After I got them in I could see the center link going up and down a bit when I moved the wheels and the idler arm looked like it was the cause so I replaced it too. That stiffened it up nicely. Once I had it all together I drove it and hit some potholes that used to cause the bump steer and it was much better. The car did not try to turn at all. So I drove it some and all seemed well but now every now and then I would notice the car would wonder for a moment, not a lot but it got my attention. I also noticed that the wheel would not return to center like it used to, it was slower. I had not taken it to get the front aligned yet FYI. I also had the steering wheel off center when going straight which is to be expected after this much work. So I adjusted the tie rods to get the wheel straight and also added 1 turn of toe in. Wow what a difference. The car feels much different now. The wheel returns to center, it feels much tighter and sportier, there is good feel in the wheel and it does not wonder. It was a real pleasure to drive, felt much more like a modern car. Of course with these old cars it will never feel like newer technology but that was not what I was going for. I like to leave what I can original to keep the car feeling like the era it came from. I never drove a new 69 stang...I was only 7 then...but I have to say it actually feels very good. Not like a new sports car like I said but it definately feels like I am in control and does not bump steer or wonder an anymore. Anyway I just thought I would pass that on. Cost me about $180 in parts and was well worth it. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJ_Bob 10 Report post Posted May 1, 2010 I'm glad that your stang feels good now! Do you have a manual or power steering? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Hi Dan, Thanks for the post. I'm in a similar position to where you were at. My car appears to have all of its original steering components. There is periodic slight wandering, but overall it's good. The boots are toast in several locations. I'm at a point now that everything else is done with the car, except the steering, and your description: " it feels much tighter and sportier, there is good feel in the wheel and it does not wonder. It was a real pleasure to drive, felt much more like a modern car." is the kick in the butt I need to get rolling. Cheers, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlinebar 2 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 I have power steering. Glad I was able to motivate you....I took it on a long drive down some curvey country roads today and it was really great. The more I drive it the better it feels. When I see bumps in the road I now realize I was having to pay more attention to them and catch myself, but there is no need now it stays nice and straight. I put some of the pitfalls to installing the tierods and idler arm on my web site. It was actually not that hard just a pain laying under the car. Once I had the inner and outer tie rods in I saw that the Idler arm was wiggly and needed replacement too. I had the front of the car off the ground and when I moved the tires by hand I could see it move up and down some. I already replaced my coils and shocks...I think upper and lower control arms next winter are in order just so I can say I replaced it all. It drives great now, like you I did not think it was all that bad before but it did wake me up every now and then when it wondered. That has not happend once since I replaced the parts. Good Luck, Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jurisd 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2010 Thanks for posting this. I am facing the same project - new tie rods, idler arm, rebuilding control valve and cylinder. Where did you buy the tie rod and idler arm parts? I've been looking at kits from Mustangs Unlimited, but I've also been told to use only Moog parts. Steering is not the place to penny-pinch, but I don't need race car parts either... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wantahertzdonut 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2010 Funny. I replaced everything in my front end and my steering is still sloppy and loose at the center. The car will wander and needs to be corrected when I come out of a turn. It's driving me crazy because I hate driving like that. I know there is some sort of adjustment in the power steering control valve under that steel cover on the outer end of the unit. Can anyone tell me how to set it? It's annoying me enough to put the car up for sale. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Black_69_FB 49 Report post Posted May 3, 2010 Thanks for posting this. I am facing the same project - new tie rods, idler arm, rebuilding control valve and cylinder. Where did you buy the tie rod and idler arm parts? I've been looking at kits from Mustangs Unlimited, but I've also been told to use only Moog parts. Steering is not the place to penny-pinch, but I don't need race car parts either... Sorry to horn in, I know you weren't asking me... but I got mine here: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Black_69_FB 49 Report post Posted May 3, 2010 Funny. I replaced everything in my front end and my steering is still sloppy and loose at the center. The car will wander and needs to be corrected when I come out of a turn. It's driving me crazy because I hate driving like that. I know there is some sort of adjustment in the power steering control valve under that steel cover on the outer end of the unit. Can anyone tell me how to set it? It's annoying me enough to put the car up for sale. You might check out this excellent site for info on steering components. Click on "Typical Problems" under Steering Box: http://www.stangerssite.com/Optimum/index.html Once you are in the Typical Problems page for the Steering Boxes, make sure to read page 2. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlinebar 2 Report post Posted May 4, 2010 Hey, Add some tow in and I bet that will kelp a lot. It will make the steering wheel return to center better and make the car track nicer...bet it helps you. Dan Funny. I replaced everything in my front end and my steering is still sloppy and loose at the center. The car will wander and needs to be corrected when I come out of a turn. It's driving me crazy because I hate driving like that. I know there is some sort of adjustment in the power steering control valve under that steel cover on the outer end of the unit. Can anyone tell me how to set it? It's annoying me enough to put the car up for sale. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlinebar 2 Report post Posted May 4, 2010 Thanks for posting this. I am facing the same project - new tie rods, idler arm, rebuilding control valve and cylinder. Where did you buy the tie rod and idler arm parts? I've been looking at kits from Mustangs Unlimited, but I've also been told to use only Moog parts. Steering is not the place to penny-pinch, but I don't need race car parts either... I ordered them from Northcoastmustang. They send me Moog parts. Good price... Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LSG 15 Report post Posted May 4, 2010 Wanta, I'm not saying that your spool valve doesn't need help, but have you checked the rag joint ? A new one of those may make a huge differance. D-Line, do you know how much caster you have ? Semms like almost every car out there doesn't have nearly enough. If you have the car at the shop, you're probably going to get the 2 &1/2 degreees or less that the manual recommends. One has to remember that the factory specs are intended to reduce front end grip so that when cornering at speed you will 'plow' somewhat, and get nervous and slow down. Makes the manufacurers' and your insurance companies happy. Set the caster to 6 or 7 positive. I promise you'll be amazed. LSG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wantahertzdonut 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2010 You might check out this excellent site for info on steering components. Click on "Typical Problems" under Steering Box: http://www.stangerssite.com/Optimum/index.html Once you are in the Typical Problems page for the Steering Boxes, make sure to read page 2. My steering box should be ok since it's a new Flaming River unit, but I did read their section about control valves (where I think the problem lies) and the mention needing the proper tension on the centering spring which I will need to check into. I don't think mine is rusted since it's only a couple years but there's always the chance it wasn't rebuilt correctly. The bummer is the make no mention of the tension setting of this spring. Does anyone know what it's supposed to be? Wanta, I'm not saying that your spool valve doesn't need help, but have you checked the rag joint ? A new one of those may make a huge differance. I should check it, but it seemed to be in good shape when I had it apart when I did my trans swap last summer. In the event that it's bad, who sells good replacement units? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Black_69_FB 49 Report post Posted May 4, 2010 My steering box should be ok since it's a new Flaming River unit, but I did read their section about control valves (where I think the problem lies) and the mention needing the proper tension on the centering spring which I will need to check into. I don't think mine is rusted since it's only a couple years but there's always the chance it wasn't rebuilt correctly. The bummer is the make no mention of the tension setting of this spring. Does anyone know what it's supposed to be? Sorry, my reading comprehension must have been off. You clearly said control valve, but I registered steering box :tongue: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wantahertzdonut 10 Report post Posted May 5, 2010 No worries! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites