Engine won't stay running, help!

[Len69Coupe 33]

Well, I got the car back together after 3 or so months of it just sitting there and me and the wife took it out Sunday for about an hour drive and it ran great. Monday I decide to drive it to work which is about 6 miles. Halfway there it dies, no warning or anything. I tried to restart it while rolling down the road with no luck so I pull over and after about 30 seconds it fires right back up and runs fine. I get back on the road and 200 yards later it sputters and quits, again no restart while on the road. I get off the road again and it restarts after about 30 seconds. This time I head back home and the scenario repeats itself twice more every 100 or so yards. Finally I decide I better just get a wrecker :surrender:. I go out today to mess with it and first I think is fuel pump or plugged filter. I disconnect the hose at the clear filter by the distributor and get plenty of fuel when turned over, same thing at filter at the carb. Reconnect all lines, reconnect coil and it fires right up and runs for about a minute and dies, refires and runs about 30 seconds and dies. From there runs times seem to get shorter. I'm starting to think carb rebuild, maybe a sticking float? I didn't want to tackle that until I got some advice the experts here. So what do you think? Oh yea, engine is 250CI I6. Thanks!

[StephenC 10]

Definitely want to check the coil for voltage drop and check the distributor to make sure its getting the full 14V. I don't think its a mechanical problem or else it wouldn't start back up after a little while leading me to think it has to electrical.

[Print Dad 58]

Hello LFugate,

I think StephenC has a great idea.

 

I would offer a few more tips.

1. - Make sure the small wires on the solenoid are tight

2. - Next time it stalls, pop the air filter and pump the gas linkage and see if you have gas in the carb.

 

It is likely electrical but it sure could be fuel. You have fuel to the carb but you are unsure if it is getting in the carb. It is possible you are have a little bit of crud on the needle and seat thus the motor staves.

 

Curious - when it stalls out, does it fade out or just die out quick?

If it sputters I would think fuel. If it dies out - - electrical.

 

It would also be a good idea to check that the points are OK. Not pitted or sticking. As Stephen states - - could be coil going bad.

 

Print Dad

[70Mach 10]

Vapor lock, maybe?

[jimmystang 13]

If you have a module you must check the coil voltage whilst running. Unilites don't like more than 9 volts.

It doesn't sound like fuel if it stops dead like that.

[ovomedia 10]

I just had this happen to me 5 times the other day, until I finally had it towed. I had the same issue... the vehicle driving well, and completely quitting with no warning. The engine would just shut off and the vehicle would just roll to a sure stop.

 

Long story short... I changed the starter solenoid, changed battery cables, replaced fuel filter, and cleaned the carb (it was full of dirt). Inside the carb, I found that one of the floaters had completely shrunken. It looked the same as when you step on a soda can. I replaced that, and now the vehicle runs better than ever.

[Len69Coupe 33]

Thanks for all the tips. I'm headed out to try the suggestions now.

[StephenC 10]

Also its not a cause of the problem but could be why you have to wait a little while to start it back up is the starter or the wire to the starter the factory 4 gauge doesn't cut it I used high heat 2 gauge wire and never had a hard start again.

[Len69Coupe 33]

OK, after much tinkering I thought I had it figured out when I took an ohm measurement across the secondary post on the coil and got zero resistance. Everything I read said that indicates a shorted coil. I replaced it and that wasn't. Tested the rest of the electrical and eveything seemed good. Remove the carb tonight and their was no fuel in the bowl and the fuel inlet needle is stuck. So now can I simply unstick it and hope it doesn't do it again? Sure would hate to do that and it happen again. Does that part come in a carb rebuild? At this point I will gladly buy the kit if it comes with the necessary parts to prevent this again, lol!

[Fordrevhead 29]

should be an Autolite 2100? Rebuild kit is Borg Warner #10035D, comes with needle and brass seat yes.

[Len69Coupe 33]

Thanks Revhead! Not sure of the model though. Which part store carries Borg-Warner? I checked Advance and Autozone with no luck.

 

Edit: Just figured out the carb is a Carter YF 1V.

Edited April 11, 2010 by LFugate

[Fordrevhead 29]

BW is a big name, most Napas have a crossref book.

 

Oh, straight six Carter YF like below

 

 

 

This should be the same:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230391456643&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=0a7d99361220a0aad2e42684fee289c1&rvr_id=&ua=WXI7&itemid=230391456643

 

there were different models...

 

manuals may help: http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/YF/index.htm

[Len69Coupe 33]

Sorry, correction again. Shop manual said a Carter YF, but parts breakdown had a Ford 6531. Had to print both pics and take them out there to figure which was correct. It's the Ford 6531. Thanks.

 

Edit: Which is actually an Autolite 1100. Geez, took awhile to figure that one out :)

Edited April 11, 2010 by LFugate

[Len69Coupe 33]

Anyone know if the needle seat is pressed in or what? Don't want to screw anything up. Still waiting on rebuild kit to come in, but want to be ready.

[Len69Coupe 33]

I got the carb rebuilt and when I reinstalled it the car ran fine. Problem is after about 30 seconds fuel starts leaking out of the accelerator pump cover. When I pulled the carb apart initially the needle seat was sticking out about 1/8 of an inch, so I seated all the way in. Should it be sticking out or flush? Only other thing I can think of is the float is incorrectly set, but I didn't make any adjustments to the float. The rebuild kit I bought from Autozone was pretty close to useless.

 

Any ideas?

[foothilltom 33]

Sounds to me like your float isn't adjusted properly and you're just overflowing. Are you using the new float that came with your rebuild kit? I've heard stories that the floats often come with pinholes and they won't float. Nice, eh?

 

Anyway, I'd pull the bowl and make sure your float isn't filled with gas. Also check if the float level is set and that it actually shuts off fuel flow when it reaches the right height in the bowl. You can experiment by moving the float up with your fingers and blowing through the fuel inlet. If it's shutting off correctly you won't be able to blow through it. Adjust the needle and/or bend the float as necessary.

 

Oh, and how sure are you that you installed all your gaskets correctly?

 

Tom

[Fordrevhead 29]

Did you replace the seat? The seat should thread in. Most with a 3/8" (I think) socket, some with a flat head screwdriver. Is the clip on the float the correct way? Is there a bowl level adjustment? So you went from running out of fuel to too much fuel.:tongue: you'll get it.