Aluminium Rads

[EastYorkStang 63]

Anyone running with an aluminium rad? I was thinking of installing one for the weight and cooling benefits. But I want one that looks stock.

 

Any ideas?

[Daves69Coupe 10]

I just bought a 2 row aluminum radiator but haven't put in n yet to c how it worx

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

this is a griffin.

 

i plan on painting it black. however a purist could easily tell it's not original, but it does have the feel of an original.

 

you can't tell but i did have to make some slight mods to the saddle mounts (upper and lower)

 

 

Edited March 27, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[jmlay 80]

There was a company on Ebay selling a direct replacement for a 69/70 that had the molded tank like the Griffin. This one was welded unlike the Griffin that is epoxy. They were around $400 also. I do not recall if this is them or not. If it is then they have raised there price. For the same money or less you can have a welded rad.

 

http://www.redlinecooling.com/15.html

[maxum96 32]

I have a giant BeCool brand radiator. But you probably don't want the one I have. It's so big you have to relocate the battery to the trunk. The radiator actually sits on top of the frame rails and has locating pins that go into the frame rails.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

The statement below seems to be a myth about Griffin radiators. Maybe because all you can see is the fins and tubes going into epoxy.

 

I interpret the following statements (from the Griffin website) as the radiators being welded...

 

9) Why do you use epoxy on your radiators, and your competitors don’t?

Griffin uses epoxy to give extra strength to the tube to header joint. The epoxy also provides an extra level of leak protection.

 

26) Why is Griffin’s core glued to the tank?

Griffin’s core is always welded to the tank. Griffin does not use any glue in the manufacturing process.

[jmlay 80]

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I have a giant BeCool brand radiator. But you probably don't want the one I have. It's so big you have to relocate the battery to the trunk. The radiator actually sits on top of the frame rails and has locating pins that go into the frame rails.

 

Wow, that IS a Monster! :tongue_smilie:

[unfrozen1969 11]

Looks sharp though...

[Slick69 10]

I went with a MU setup with dual Spal fans. I have a similar setup in my '57. It gets pretty hot here in TX in traffic and these have been working fine, even with the AC on.

 

 

 

[maxum96 32]

Slick69, nice looking radiator and fan setup you have. If my car had not come with the radiator and fan I have, I might have done something like your's.

[Slick69 10]

Slick69, nice looking radiator and fan setup you have. If my car had not come with the radiator and fan I have, I might have done something like your's.

 

It went in fairly simple. I had to notch the battery tray slightly, and had a local welding shop make me the mounts for $25 from some scrap metal they had. I am a huge fan of Spal fans....they are expensive, but a major step up from Flex-Fans.

[maxum96 32]

I have a Spal on mine too. Only have 500 miles. But so far so good. I just have the single 16".

[EastYorkStang 63]

this is a griffin.

 

i plan on painting it black. however a purist could easily tell it's not original, but it does have the feel of an original.

 

you can't tell but i did have to make some slight mods to the saddle mounts (upper and lower)

 

 

 

 

Like your choice. What model is it? There are no pictures on the Griffin website.

 

What mods did you have to do? It looks stock.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Griffin part number is: 7-568BC-CXX

I ordered it from summit. The pictures on summit's website are not accurate either. returning parts to summit has been very easy in the event a mistake is made.

 

each application is different. the one i ordered has both inlet and outlet on the same side. i had decided to run the 69 water pump, which may or may not have been the best decision. i also have a manual transmission.

 

the mods were to the saddle mounts. i think i added about 1/4" to the very front of the top saddle mount (section that bolts to the radiator support and is hidden) to move the radiator away from the radiator support by about 1/4". i also used a 36 grit roloc to grind a little rubber from the isolators. the radiator must be about an 1/8" thicker where the rubber grasps the radiator (both top and bottom).

 

also on the bottom side brackets, i drilled out the spot welds on the u-shaped piece, moved them out about 1/2" and plug welded them back. not a big deal at all if you have a welder.

 

good luck

[wantahertzdonut 10]

I've been going nuts trying to get an aluminum crossflow radiator that will go right in my car. Currently it's a bolt in, and I mistakenly ordered the Be-Cool unit Maxum96 had thinking it would be a direct fit piece. Of course it's not so I returned it to Summit. Then I ordered the same unit BuckeyeDemon ordered, and it's not even a crossflow unit as advertised! Seeing the ports are on the same side will require different hoses as well. Is there an advantage to having the ports on the same side?

 

Does anyone out there make a crossflow aluminum radiator that I can bolt in, or do I need to buy the saddle mounts as well?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

summits description of being crossflow is incorrect. do you want a true crossflow radiator, or just need the inlet and outlet to be on opposite sides? you can order one with the ports on opposite sides (i know because the first one i ordered had the ports on opposite sides (like for a 70))

[wantahertzdonut 10]

I would like a crossflow radiator since I plan on building a high HP stroker down the road (if I keep the car).

 

I would like the outlets to be on opposite sides since that's what the car is using now.

 

I'm a little annoyed with Summit's catalog since I searched for a 1970 radiator and didn't notice the configuration. If I keep this radiator, can I simply get 1969 hoses and use it or is there more to it than that?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i'm not sure what all you have but I'm guessing you may want either

7-568BC-FAX

7-568BC-FXX

 

both have the inlet on the top right (passenger) and outlet on the bottom left (driver). options are for the automatic or not. i believe that is what the typical 351 car had in 70. (generalized statement).

 

look at the table on the Griffin Website and use the part number on Summit's site or wherever you may decide to order from.

 

it's very easy to return parts from them. it's more than swapping hoses. water pumps are different and (not sure) that could lead to different pulley/damper configurations.

 

just return the parts to summit and order the right part for your needs.

 

http://www.griffinrad.com/muscle_car.cfm

[buening 63]

Try this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-381425/

 

It is a cross flow unit made by Northern Radiators and is a quality unit. No epoxy to worry about cracking and leaking either. I'm using their 27.5" wide one and had to move the battery to the back, but it was only about 1/2" of the radiator width that was interfering with the battery tray. I could have probably notched the tray. The above link is for the 25.75" and should be large enough to give you great cooling but be shorter than the one I'm using so that you don't have to move the battery. They also have them with the auto trans coolers built in, which is the kind I'm running.

 

Those Griffins are not cross flows, they are downflow radiators. You want the tanks on the sides with the core between them in order to be crossflows.

[panteramatt 1]

Do you guys running aluminum rads see a big drop in engine temps? also, would getting an electric fan give a noticeable HP increase?

[buening 63]

For me it was a big drop. I run constantly at 180° (same as the thermostat rating) unless it's really hot outside and I'm in traffic, then on occasion it'll creep up to close to 200°. This was using a horrible Zirgo electric fan, but thats all about to change :)

[Steve69 0]

I used the Summit Radiator also with a Ford Taurus Fan. I had to cut into in the radiator support to make it fit. I would do the Aluminum Radiator first and see if it will do the job. If it doesn't then try the electric fan. If you go with the Electric Fan you'll have to upgrade your Alternator also. I used a 130G Ford Taurus Alternator also.

Steve69

 

 

 

IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y215/shalver66/parts120-1.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

[buening 63]

Steve what width did you use? I didn't have to touch my radiator support and I used the stock upper saddle and lower radiator mounts that are used with 24" radiators.

 

The alternator upgrade depends on what fan you'll be using. An OEM Ford fan like the Taurus will need the upgrade since it is an amperage hog, whereas smaller amperage fans like Zirgo, Spal, etc may not need a larger alternator. I was able to use my stock alternator just fine with the Zirgo, but then again it probably only pulled 20-25A.

[Steve69 0]

I Believe it was there 25" radiator. The problem I had was clearance with the Electric Fan hitting the Water Pump. If I ran a Mechanical Fan It probably would fit with no modifications. Mine ran a lot cooler with the Aluminum Radiator and I probably could of took the Electric Fan off. Im not sure how much Antifreeze the Aluminum held but it was a lot more than my Copper Radiator.

 

Steve69

 

 

 

Steve what width did you use? I didn't have to touch my radiator support and I used the stock upper saddle and lower radiator mounts that are used with 24" radiators.

 

The alternator upgrade depends on what fan you'll be using. An OEM Ford fan like the Taurus will need the upgrade since it is an amperage hog, whereas smaller amperage fans like Zirgo, Spal, etc may not need a larger alternator. I was able to use my stock alternator just fine with the Zirgo, but then again it probably only pulled 20-25A.