SB Long tubes with 5 speed

[Fordrevhead 29]

yeah for now the 289, looking for at least a T5 but more than likely a TKO because I do want to build a 351 based stroker someday. The tower removal now (just considering) is because I wont want to do it later, lol. I would do this more for handling if I went with coil over, etc. As much as I wanted to wing this build I dont want to rope myself into a corner that makes me sell parts I already bought or tear something apart and do it differently, etc. I keep thinking about future options that change the build early on. After blasting my floors and tipping the car on its side in the sunlight it looks like it was blasted with 12 gauge shot. Lots of little holes... so now I am considering front floor pans... so IF I were going to raise the tunnel now might be the time.

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes. I figured there was several ways to do it with a cable. Your method slime is different then welding the roller to the pedal like I have seen on Mustang Steves site I think it was. Hydraulic would be nice yes. I had an F150 slave cylinder rigged up in the Mazda Rx7 drag car with the 289 and 3 speed toploader, it worked ok.

 

thanks all, good thread started quickly.

[Fordrevhead 29]

yeah for now the 289, looking for at least a T5 but more than likely a TKO because I do want to build a 351 based stroker someday. The tower removal now (just considering) is because I wont want to do it later, lol. I would do this more for handling if I went with coil over, etc. As much as I wanted to wing this build I dont want to rope myself into a corner that makes me sell parts I already bought or tear something apart and do it differently, etc. I keep thinking about future options that change the build early on. After blasting my floors and tipping the car on its side in the sunlight it looks like it was blasted with 12 gauge shot. Lots of little holes... so now I am considering front floor pans... so IF I were going to raise the tunnel now might be the time.

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes. I figured there was several ways to do it with a cable. Your method slime is different then welding the roller to the pedal like I have seen on Mustang Steves site I think it was. Hydraulic would be nice yes. I had an F150 slave cylinder rigged up in the Mazda Rx7 drag car with the 289 and 3 speed toploader, it worked ok.

 

thanks all, good thread started quickly.

[Jayru 17]

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes.

 

Not true. I have a 302 small block with longtubes (unknown brand) and a 5 speed and I'm using the Z bar setup just fine. It's tight, but here's what i did...

 

I had to put a 1/2" spacer onto the block fulcrum to kick the Z bar over enough to clear the headers (during pedal operation). There is enough adjustment on the frame side fulcrum to allow for the extra 1/2". Then just flipped the threaded rod (that pushes the clutch fork) to the other side. Works great!

 

I have a Z rated T5 with a T5 bell and the classic clutch fork adapter on it. No clearance problems at all.

 

A Z rated T5 will handle a stout amount of HP (unless you're repeatedly launching on slicks at the track).

[Jayru 17]

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes.

 

Not true. I have a 302 small block with longtubes (unknown brand) and a 5 speed and I'm using the Z bar setup just fine. It's tight, but here's what i did...

 

I had to put a 1/2" spacer onto the block fulcrum to kick the Z bar over enough to clear the headers (during pedal operation). There is enough adjustment on the frame side fulcrum to allow for the extra 1/2". Then just flipped the threaded rod (that pushes the clutch fork) to the other side. Works great!

 

I have a Z rated T5 with a T5 bell and the classic clutch fork adapter on it. No clearance problems at all.

 

A Z rated T5 will handle a stout amount of HP (unless you're repeatedly launching on slicks at the track).

[Jayru 17]

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes.

 

Not true. I have a 302 small block with longtubes (unknown brand) and a 5 speed and I'm using the Z bar setup just fine. It's tight, but here's what i did...

 

I had to put a 1/2" spacer onto the block fulcrum to kick the Z bar over enough to clear the headers (during pedal operation). There is enough adjustment on the frame side fulcrum to allow for the extra 1/2". Then just flipped the threaded rod (that pushes the clutch fork) to the other side. Works great!

 

I have a Z rated T5 with a T5 bell and the classic clutch fork adapter on it. No clearance problems at all.

 

A Z rated T5 will handle a stout amount of HP (unless you're repeatedly launching on slicks at the track).

[Fordrevhead 29]

cool Jayru, ok now lets throw an x pipe into the mix. anyone?

[Fordrevhead 29]

cool Jayru, ok now lets throw an x pipe into the mix. anyone?

[Fordrevhead 29]

cool Jayru, ok now lets throw an x pipe into the mix. anyone?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i should note, the mechanical clutch linkage mods were due to many things besides the headers and it was nothing difficult.

 

1. lowered engine

2. moved engine forward

3. lakewood scattershield

4. TFS highports/headers

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i should note, the mechanical clutch linkage mods were due to many things besides the headers and it was nothing difficult.

 

1. lowered engine

2. moved engine forward

3. lakewood scattershield

4. TFS highports/headers

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i should note, the mechanical clutch linkage mods were due to many things besides the headers and it was nothing difficult.

 

1. lowered engine

2. moved engine forward

3. lakewood scattershield

4. TFS highports/headers

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

 

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

Edited March 10, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

 

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

Edited March 10, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

 

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

Edited March 10, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Pics please. I have a good idea of how you did it but a pic will make it right.

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Pics please. I have a good idea of how you did it but a pic will make it right.

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Pics please. I have a good idea of how you did it but a pic will make it right.

[Fordrevhead 29]

yes pics! I am familiar with the 79 cable already from my 80 Fox body... although it's a C4 now, lol.

[Fordrevhead 29]

yes pics! I am familiar with the 79 cable already from my 80 Fox body... although it's a C4 now, lol.

[Fordrevhead 29]

yes pics! I am familiar with the 79 cable already from my 80 Fox body... although it's a C4 now, lol.

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal.

 

The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it.

 

Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

Edited March 12, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal.

 

The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it.

 

Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

Edited March 12, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal.

 

The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it.

 

Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

Edited March 12, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

 

Thanks for the pics. Good one of engine compartment adjuster brace. Too bad none of top of peddle.

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

 

Thanks for the pics. Good one of engine compartment adjuster brace. Too bad none of top of peddle.