SB Long tubes with 5 speed

[Fordrevhead 29]

anyone done this? ...and how?

 

my goals aren't mixing... so before I get to far maybe I should hack out the shock towers and make the tunnel bigger, lol.

[Fordrevhead 29]

anyone done this? ...and how?

 

my goals aren't mixing... so before I get to far maybe I should hack out the shock towers and make the tunnel bigger, lol.

[Fordrevhead 29]

anyone done this? ...and how?

 

my goals aren't mixing... so before I get to far maybe I should hack out the shock towers and make the tunnel bigger, lol.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

SB is that small block? what engine? which 5-speed? what heads? what type of clutch linkage? basically what parts do you have?

Edited March 9, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

SB is that small block? what engine? which 5-speed? what heads? what type of clutch linkage? basically what parts do you have?

Edited March 9, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

SB is that small block? what engine? which 5-speed? what heads? what type of clutch linkage? basically what parts do you have?

Edited March 9, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[SlimeGold 69 15]

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable).

 

I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable).

 

I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable).

 

I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[MikeStang 247]

Runragged on here has a 69 with Hooker Super Comp Long tubes and a TKO 500 I think it is and he is using the stock linkage and it seems to work just fine, altho you have to massage the tranny tunnel to get it all in there hahah. Oh he is running Stock heads on a 351W

Chime in any time Louie

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Runragged on here has a 69 with Hooker Super Comp Long tubes and a TKO 500 I think it is and he is using the stock linkage and it seems to work just fine, altho you have to massage the tranny tunnel to get it all in there hahah. Oh he is running Stock heads on a 351W

Chime in any time Louie

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Runragged on here has a 69 with Hooker Super Comp Long tubes and a TKO 500 I think it is and he is using the stock linkage and it seems to work just fine, altho you have to massage the tranny tunnel to get it all in there hahah. Oh he is running Stock heads on a 351W

Chime in any time Louie

Mike

[tim42 13]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

[tim42 13]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

[tim42 13]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

are we really discussing a 289 with a T-5? when i read shock tower removal and an enlarged tunnel, i was thinking more of a big block or 351 with some big 1 7/8 or 2 inch headers with a T-56.

 

i stuffed a 351W block/TFS high ports (raised 3/4") with 1 3/4" long tubes and a TKO. i had to make quite a few mods to the mechanical clutch linkage, but i do have really nice clearance to the body with the FPA headers. not sure i like the collector design on the fpa's.

 

the lakewood scattershield is big. i'm using it with the 164 tooth flywheel. i've read the quick time bellhousings are smaller. i'm not sure if they are SFI approved or not.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

are we really discussing a 289 with a T-5? when i read shock tower removal and an enlarged tunnel, i was thinking more of a big block or 351 with some big 1 7/8 or 2 inch headers with a T-56.

 

i stuffed a 351W block/TFS high ports (raised 3/4") with 1 3/4" long tubes and a TKO. i had to make quite a few mods to the mechanical clutch linkage, but i do have really nice clearance to the body with the FPA headers. not sure i like the collector design on the fpa's.

 

the lakewood scattershield is big. i'm using it with the 164 tooth flywheel. i've read the quick time bellhousings are smaller. i'm not sure if they are SFI approved or not.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

are we really discussing a 289 with a T-5? when i read shock tower removal and an enlarged tunnel, i was thinking more of a big block or 351 with some big 1 7/8 or 2 inch headers with a T-56.

 

i stuffed a 351W block/TFS high ports (raised 3/4") with 1 3/4" long tubes and a TKO. i had to make quite a few mods to the mechanical clutch linkage, but i do have really nice clearance to the body with the FPA headers. not sure i like the collector design on the fpa's.

 

the lakewood scattershield is big. i'm using it with the 164 tooth flywheel. i've read the quick time bellhousings are smaller. i'm not sure if they are SFI approved or not.

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

 

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

 

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

Slimegold, tell us if your experience was with a '69 and how the quadrant was set up. If not fugetabout it.

 

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

Edited March 9, 2010 by SlimeGold 69

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

[tim42 13]

Slimegold,

Thanks for the info. I never heard of this particular set up. How many miles on the conversion? Got any firewall and pedal pics? A pin like the one that keeps the brake light switch on?

[Fordrevhead 29]

yeah for now the 289, looking for at least a T5 but more than likely a TKO because I do want to build a 351 based stroker someday. The tower removal now (just considering) is because I wont want to do it later, lol. I would do this more for handling if I went with coil over, etc. As much as I wanted to wing this build I dont want to rope myself into a corner that makes me sell parts I already bought or tear something apart and do it differently, etc. I keep thinking about future options that change the build early on. After blasting my floors and tipping the car on its side in the sunlight it looks like it was blasted with 12 gauge shot. Lots of little holes... so now I am considering front floor pans... so IF I were going to raise the tunnel now might be the time.

 

Yeah so even with a small block that darn z bar crap design wont work with long tubes. I figured there was several ways to do it with a cable. Your method slime is different then welding the roller to the pedal like I have seen on Mustang Steves site I think it was. Hydraulic would be nice yes. I had an F150 slave cylinder rigged up in the Mazda Rx7 drag car with the 289 and 3 speed toploader, it worked ok.

 

thanks all, good thread started quickly.