Apologies to Opentracker

[Opentracker 4]

I do like a rear sway bar on my cars. Some poeple think they cause snap oversteer though I have not found that to be true. I do think they are an adjusting device that can be added later, after the car is built. I to tell our customers that they should put the car together without one and see how it drives. If they feel the rear end tends to lean a lot, then one can be added.

 

I honestly feel someone with more seat time can handle a car with a rear sway bar better than someone that hasn't done a lot of performance driving. They do give the car a sharper edge to balance on. They cut down on the body roll and I like that. Though on the street in the rain, it can be a little " driffty " .

[Opentracker 4]

I do like a rear sway bar on my cars. Some poeple think they cause snap oversteer though I have not found that to be true. I do think they are an adjusting device that can be added later, after the car is built. I to tell our customers that they should put the car together without one and see how it drives. If they feel the rear end tends to lean a lot, then one can be added.

 

I honestly feel someone with more seat time can handle a car with a rear sway bar better than someone that hasn't done a lot of performance driving. They do give the car a sharper edge to balance on. They cut down on the body roll and I like that. Though on the street in the rain, it can be a little " driffty " .

[Pakrat 1,043]

If you add a rear bar, ensure it’s a factory type bar and not the bolt on type you can buy from places like Addco.

 

Years ago I added an Addco rear sway bar for a non-factory application to a 1970 fastback 302-2V. I couldn’t tell any difference in the way it handled. 20 years later I upgraded the front and rear bars on my 1970 Mach 1. My Mach was equipped with a factory .5” rear bar. I was upgrading to a .875” bar. The one they sent me was the kind for a non-factory bolt on kit and not a direct factory replacement. I had taken off the original small factory bar before realizing they had sent me the wrong type bar. I drove my Mach around for about two weeks without any rear bar before I got the replacement factory bar. While it handled the same going straight down the highway, I was surprised at the difference it made on cloverleaf’s and on/off ramps. That small that bar made a big difference compared to none at all. However I’d highly recommend it be installed as a factory type bar and not a “bolt-on” kit.

 

I upgraded my factory 15/16” front and ½” rear bars to Addco’s 1 1/8 and 7/8’s bars and it handles great on the cloverleafs and on/off ramps. My tires are now my limiting factor in handling.

 

I don't know about anyone else but I'm getting confusing info from your post. You start out saying go factory and not add on like addco but then finish with you upgraded to addco and it handles great?!?!?!??!

[Pakrat 1,043]

If you add a rear bar, ensure it’s a factory type bar and not the bolt on type you can buy from places like Addco.

 

Years ago I added an Addco rear sway bar for a non-factory application to a 1970 fastback 302-2V. I couldn’t tell any difference in the way it handled. 20 years later I upgraded the front and rear bars on my 1970 Mach 1. My Mach was equipped with a factory .5” rear bar. I was upgrading to a .875” bar. The one they sent me was the kind for a non-factory bolt on kit and not a direct factory replacement. I had taken off the original small factory bar before realizing they had sent me the wrong type bar. I drove my Mach around for about two weeks without any rear bar before I got the replacement factory bar. While it handled the same going straight down the highway, I was surprised at the difference it made on cloverleaf’s and on/off ramps. That small that bar made a big difference compared to none at all. However I’d highly recommend it be installed as a factory type bar and not a “bolt-on” kit.

 

I upgraded my factory 15/16” front and ½” rear bars to Addco’s 1 1/8 and 7/8’s bars and it handles great on the cloverleafs and on/off ramps. My tires are now my limiting factor in handling.

 

I don't know about anyone else but I'm getting confusing info from your post. You start out saying go factory and not add on like addco but then finish with you upgraded to addco and it handles great?!?!?!??!

[Pakrat 1,043]

If you add a rear bar, ensure it’s a factory type bar and not the bolt on type you can buy from places like Addco.

 

Years ago I added an Addco rear sway bar for a non-factory application to a 1970 fastback 302-2V. I couldn’t tell any difference in the way it handled. 20 years later I upgraded the front and rear bars on my 1970 Mach 1. My Mach was equipped with a factory .5” rear bar. I was upgrading to a .875” bar. The one they sent me was the kind for a non-factory bolt on kit and not a direct factory replacement. I had taken off the original small factory bar before realizing they had sent me the wrong type bar. I drove my Mach around for about two weeks without any rear bar before I got the replacement factory bar. While it handled the same going straight down the highway, I was surprised at the difference it made on cloverleaf’s and on/off ramps. That small that bar made a big difference compared to none at all. However I’d highly recommend it be installed as a factory type bar and not a “bolt-on” kit.

 

I upgraded my factory 15/16” front and ½” rear bars to Addco’s 1 1/8 and 7/8’s bars and it handles great on the cloverleafs and on/off ramps. My tires are now my limiting factor in handling.

 

I don't know about anyone else but I'm getting confusing info from your post. You start out saying go factory and not add on like addco but then finish with you upgraded to addco and it handles great?!?!?!??!

[Opentracker 4]

In my opinion, a sway bar is a sway bar. The car doesn't know if it's factory or not. The size and how it's mounted can change but they all work about the same way.

 

The hot set up for a track car is to have an adjustable one like the ones from Stambar. They cost twice as much but are a great tuning aid for a road racer.

 

[Opentracker 4]

In my opinion, a sway bar is a sway bar. The car doesn't know if it's factory or not. The size and how it's mounted can change but they all work about the same way.

 

The hot set up for a track car is to have an adjustable one like the ones from Stambar. They cost twice as much but are a great tuning aid for a road racer.

 

[Opentracker 4]

In my opinion, a sway bar is a sway bar. The car doesn't know if it's factory or not. The size and how it's mounted can change but they all work about the same way.

 

The hot set up for a track car is to have an adjustable one like the ones from Stambar. They cost twice as much but are a great tuning aid for a road racer.

 

[Jayru 17]

I do like a rear sway bar on my cars. Some poeple think they cause snap oversteer though I have not found that to be true. I do think they are an adjusting device that can be added later, after the car is built. I to tell our customers that they should put the car together without one and see how it drives. If they feel the rear end tends to lean a lot, then one can be added.

 

I honestly feel someone with more seat time can handle a car with a rear sway bar better than someone that hasn't done a lot of performance driving. They do give the car a sharper edge to balance on. They cut down on the body roll and I like that. Though on the street in the rain, it can be a little " driffty " .

 

In your opinion will the rear sway bar get rid of the push/roll from the rear I'm feeling? When the car goes into a corner now the front remains flat (no roll) but the back end is body rolling/leaning so much that it feels like the rear is trying to walk out and overtake the front (tugging or lifting the front as well). I wonder if my rear springs are worn also (i didn't replace them/unsure if they were replaced), would that make a difference or describe the condition I'm speaking of?

 

I'd like the car to remain consistently flat front to back in a corner. Is a rear sway bar the answer?

[Jayru 17]

I do like a rear sway bar on my cars. Some poeple think they cause snap oversteer though I have not found that to be true. I do think they are an adjusting device that can be added later, after the car is built. I to tell our customers that they should put the car together without one and see how it drives. If they feel the rear end tends to lean a lot, then one can be added.

 

I honestly feel someone with more seat time can handle a car with a rear sway bar better than someone that hasn't done a lot of performance driving. They do give the car a sharper edge to balance on. They cut down on the body roll and I like that. Though on the street in the rain, it can be a little " driffty " .

 

In your opinion will the rear sway bar get rid of the push/roll from the rear I'm feeling? When the car goes into a corner now the front remains flat (no roll) but the back end is body rolling/leaning so much that it feels like the rear is trying to walk out and overtake the front (tugging or lifting the front as well). I wonder if my rear springs are worn also (i didn't replace them/unsure if they were replaced), would that make a difference or describe the condition I'm speaking of?

 

I'd like the car to remain consistently flat front to back in a corner. Is a rear sway bar the answer?

[Jayru 17]

I do like a rear sway bar on my cars. Some poeple think they cause snap oversteer though I have not found that to be true. I do think they are an adjusting device that can be added later, after the car is built. I to tell our customers that they should put the car together without one and see how it drives. If they feel the rear end tends to lean a lot, then one can be added.

 

I honestly feel someone with more seat time can handle a car with a rear sway bar better than someone that hasn't done a lot of performance driving. They do give the car a sharper edge to balance on. They cut down on the body roll and I like that. Though on the street in the rain, it can be a little " driffty " .

 

In your opinion will the rear sway bar get rid of the push/roll from the rear I'm feeling? When the car goes into a corner now the front remains flat (no roll) but the back end is body rolling/leaning so much that it feels like the rear is trying to walk out and overtake the front (tugging or lifting the front as well). I wonder if my rear springs are worn also (i didn't replace them/unsure if they were replaced), would that make a difference or describe the condition I'm speaking of?

 

I'd like the car to remain consistently flat front to back in a corner. Is a rear sway bar the answer?

[Opentracker 4]

A rear sway bar would sure cut down on the body roll and would be a good place to start. I would try that first. It would cost the least and take the least amout of time.

 

It may not fix all the issues though. Old springs aren't as big of a problem as worn out bushings. If the springs are stock and using the stock shackle kit and the front bushing, that could cause the rear end to float from side to side giving that odd feeling. Worn bushings will also increase the body roll.

 

 

The Del-Alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West is an option. It replaces the stock rubber bushings with greaseable solid bushings. They free up the rear suspension much like the roller parts do up front. With solid bushings, the rear end won't float from side to side and there is less need for a sway bar and panhard bar.

 

If the springs are soft and sagged you can rebuild them to get the ride height and spring rate you want. Here is a link to a thread on stangnet about it. Best part of this mod is it's free. It takes a lot of time but you get what you want. The money you save by not buying a new set of leaf sprigns could pay for the Del-Alum kit if the car does need rear springs.

 

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html

[Opentracker 4]

A rear sway bar would sure cut down on the body roll and would be a good place to start. I would try that first. It would cost the least and take the least amout of time.

 

It may not fix all the issues though. Old springs aren't as big of a problem as worn out bushings. If the springs are stock and using the stock shackle kit and the front bushing, that could cause the rear end to float from side to side giving that odd feeling. Worn bushings will also increase the body roll.

 

 

The Del-Alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West is an option. It replaces the stock rubber bushings with greaseable solid bushings. They free up the rear suspension much like the roller parts do up front. With solid bushings, the rear end won't float from side to side and there is less need for a sway bar and panhard bar.

 

If the springs are soft and sagged you can rebuild them to get the ride height and spring rate you want. Here is a link to a thread on stangnet about it. Best part of this mod is it's free. It takes a lot of time but you get what you want. The money you save by not buying a new set of leaf sprigns could pay for the Del-Alum kit if the car does need rear springs.

 

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html

[Opentracker 4]

A rear sway bar would sure cut down on the body roll and would be a good place to start. I would try that first. It would cost the least and take the least amout of time.

 

It may not fix all the issues though. Old springs aren't as big of a problem as worn out bushings. If the springs are stock and using the stock shackle kit and the front bushing, that could cause the rear end to float from side to side giving that odd feeling. Worn bushings will also increase the body roll.

 

 

The Del-Alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West is an option. It replaces the stock rubber bushings with greaseable solid bushings. They free up the rear suspension much like the roller parts do up front. With solid bushings, the rear end won't float from side to side and there is less need for a sway bar and panhard bar.

 

If the springs are soft and sagged you can rebuild them to get the ride height and spring rate you want. Here is a link to a thread on stangnet about it. Best part of this mod is it's free. It takes a lot of time but you get what you want. The money you save by not buying a new set of leaf sprigns could pay for the Del-Alum kit if the car does need rear springs.

 

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html

[MikeStang 247]

Thats an awesome thread on lowering with the springs John. You think u guys can get that thread over here :)

John whats turn around time gonna be on 2 complete suspensions? Louis and I are going to be ready to order in a week or so.

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Thats an awesome thread on lowering with the springs John. You think u guys can get that thread over here :)

John whats turn around time gonna be on 2 complete suspensions? Louis and I are going to be ready to order in a week or so.

Mike

[70Mach03 12]

I don't know about anyone else but I'm getting confusing info from your post. You start out saying go factory and not add on like addco but then finish with you upgraded to addco and it handles great?!?!?!??!

 

 

The first car (a 1970 302-2V Mustang fastback) came without a factory rear sway bar and only a 11/16" (I think) front bar. I added a 15/16" front bar from a wrecked 1969 Mach and later added a rear bar from Addco. It was not a factory replacement bar as the car came without one (ie. standard suspension with front bar only).The rear bar was the type you had to drill holes and bolt to the frame. I am not a suspension engineer, but I followed the instructions included. I never did like the way it set up and the as opposed to a factory rear sway bar (i.e 1970 and later Heavy Duty Suspension with rear bar included). While the 15/16" did help the front I couldn't tell any difference after adding the rear bar to the first Mustang.

 

My present 1970 Mach 1 came from the factory with a 15/16" front bar and 1/2" rear bar. I upgraded those to Addco's 1 1/8" front bar and 7/8" rear bar. However this time it bolted in place of the factory rear sway bar as this car was equipped with one from the start. I'm saying the factory rear sway bar location and setup is much better than the add on kit which adds the rear bar to a non-original equipped car.

 

Addco (and others) make good products. That was not my complaint. I just couldn't tell any difference after installing their "add-on kit" as opposed to a factory style replacement (i.e larger size) rear bar.

 

I was also saying I drove the car for about two weeks with the rear bar removed altogether. Even thought the factory bar was very small (1/2"), I could tell a big difference in the way the car handled with no rear bar. I could feel the rear wanting to come around during the spirited driving or when taking the cloverleafs and off/on ramps.

[70Mach03 12]

I don't know about anyone else but I'm getting confusing info from your post. You start out saying go factory and not add on like addco but then finish with you upgraded to addco and it handles great?!?!?!??!

 

 

The first car (a 1970 302-2V Mustang fastback) came without a factory rear sway bar and only a 11/16" (I think) front bar. I added a 15/16" front bar from a wrecked 1969 Mach and later added a rear bar from Addco. It was not a factory replacement bar as the car came without one (ie. standard suspension with front bar only).The rear bar was the type you had to drill holes and bolt to the frame. I am not a suspension engineer, but I followed the instructions included. I never did like the way it set up and the as opposed to a factory rear sway bar (i.e 1970 and later Heavy Duty Suspension with rear bar included). While the 15/16" did help the front I couldn't tell any difference after adding the rear bar to the first Mustang.

 

My present 1970 Mach 1 came from the factory with a 15/16" front bar and 1/2" rear bar. I upgraded those to Addco's 1 1/8" front bar and 7/8" rear bar. However this time it bolted in place of the factory rear sway bar as this car was equipped with one from the start. I'm saying the factory rear sway bar location and setup is much better than the add on kit which adds the rear bar to a non-original equipped car.

 

Addco (and others) make good products. That was not my complaint. I just couldn't tell any difference after installing their "add-on kit" as opposed to a factory style replacement (i.e larger size) rear bar.

 

I was also saying I drove the car for about two weeks with the rear bar removed altogether. Even thought the factory bar was very small (1/2"), I could tell a big difference in the way the car handled with no rear bar. I could feel the rear wanting to come around during the spirited driving or when taking the cloverleafs and off/on ramps.

[70Mach03 12]

Questions for Opentracker:

 

I know rear leaf springs can wear out by losing their "arch" and need to be replaced, but do the front coil springs wear out also?

 

I replaced my original rear leaf springs with new stock rating leafs and it made a huge difference in ride quality. I'm not sure if I still have the 40-year old original coils on the front or if someone replaced them over the years. I like the stance of the car but feel it's a little stiff in day to day driving, especially over less than perfect roads. I wondered if at some point they'd been replaced with lowered 620 lb coils? I'm debating on buying a set of new stock 350 lb front coils. The car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C-4V with Export Bar and Monte Carlo bar and they really helped tighten the front of the car. It has new Bilstein Gas Shocks also.

 

My final question to you is if the front coils are worn out, should I replace them with a stock 350 lb coils or perhaps your Progressive Rate Coils? It's a street car for crusing and not a track car. What springs do you recommend for a 351 car. The Small block coils (390-520) or big block (460-600). If I replace the coils I will definitely be adding your roller perches also as I've always heard great reviews on your products and respect your opinion. Thanks in advance.

[70Mach03 12]

Questions for Opentracker:

 

I know rear leaf springs can wear out by losing their "arch" and need to be replaced, but do the front coil springs wear out also?

 

I replaced my original rear leaf springs with new stock rating leafs and it made a huge difference in ride quality. I'm not sure if I still have the 40-year old original coils on the front or if someone replaced them over the years. I like the stance of the car but feel it's a little stiff in day to day driving, especially over less than perfect roads. I wondered if at some point they'd been replaced with lowered 620 lb coils? I'm debating on buying a set of new stock 350 lb front coils. The car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C-4V with Export Bar and Monte Carlo bar and they really helped tighten the front of the car. It has new Bilstein Gas Shocks also.

 

My final question to you is if the front coils are worn out, should I replace them with a stock 350 lb coils or perhaps your Progressive Rate Coils? It's a street car for crusing and not a track car. What springs do you recommend for a 351 car. The Small block coils (390-520) or big block (460-600). If I replace the coils I will definitely be adding your roller perches also as I've always heard great reviews on your products and respect your opinion. Thanks in advance.

[Opentracker 4]

Thats an awesome thread on lowering with the springs John. You think u guys can get that thread over here :)

John whats turn around time gonna be on 2 complete suspensions? Louis and I are going to be ready to order in a week or so.

Mike

 

 

It is a great way to save money and get the ride height and spring rate you want. I love it when people ask " where did you get those leaf springs "? and I say I made them. The look on their face is priceless.

 

You have to figure, all leaf spring packs started out as just a pile of leafs on the table. The ones you use and in what order determines the rate and ride height.

 

Send me an email about the kits - opentracker@sbcglobal.net

[Opentracker 4]

Thats an awesome thread on lowering with the springs John. You think u guys can get that thread over here :)

John whats turn around time gonna be on 2 complete suspensions? Louis and I are going to be ready to order in a week or so.

Mike

 

 

It is a great way to save money and get the ride height and spring rate you want. I love it when people ask " where did you get those leaf springs "? and I say I made them. The look on their face is priceless.

 

You have to figure, all leaf spring packs started out as just a pile of leafs on the table. The ones you use and in what order determines the rate and ride height.

 

Send me an email about the kits - opentracker@sbcglobal.net

[Opentracker 4]

Questions for Opentracker:

 

I know rear leaf springs can wear out by losing their "arch" and need to be replaced, but do the front coil springs wear out also?

 

I replaced my original rear leaf springs with new stock rating leafs and it made a huge difference in ride quality. I'm not sure if I still have the 40-year old original coils on the front or if someone replaced them over the years. I like the stance of the car but feel it's a little stiff in day to day driving, especially over less than perfect roads. I wondered if at some point they'd been replaced with lowered 620 lb coils? I'm debating on buying a set of new stock 350 lb front coils. The car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C-4V with Export Bar and Monte Carlo bar and they really helped tighten the front of the car. It has new Bilstein Gas Shocks also.

 

My final question to you is if the front coils are worn out, should I replace them with a stock 350 lb coils or perhaps your Progressive Rate Coils? It's a street car for crusing and not a track car. What springs do you recommend for a 351 car. The Small block coils (390-520) or big block (460-600). If I replace the coils I will definitely be adding your roller perches also as I've always heard great reviews on your products and respect your opinion. Thanks in advance.

 

 

I wouldn't say leaf springs or coil springs wear out. They loose spring rate after a while is all. Drag racers want the old soft worn out front springs because they are tall and have a light spring rate. I have some original coil springs in some of our cars. It all depends on what your using the car for.

 

For your car, since you like the ride height and just want it to ride better, you might try a set or roller perches first. They soften up the spring rate, give a smoother ride and make the cars drive a lot better over less than perfect road conditions. They make enough of a change that you might not want/need to replace the springs. We have a forum member special of $175 including shipping ( not trying to sell parts, just point this fact out ) going on. If your handy with tools you can make your own.

 

If you do decide to go with a different spring, either the softer of the two progressive coils will work or a stock replacement spring with some coil cutting done to get the ride height you want. You will need to trim the progressive coils also as they come standard ride height. It sounds like someone replaced your coils at some point. A stock original spring would be soft and would not give a stiff ride.

 

Just to show that free height doesn't mean all that much. Here are two 560lb (.620 is the spring OD - that's why they call 'em 620's) springs and a set of stockers. The spring on the left is for a 65-66, the one in the middle is for a 67-73. The one on the right is what came out of our 68 small block Ranchero. When I put the 1" drop 560lb spring in (middle spring) it only lowered the car 1/2". I sent the tall stock springs to a drag team to use on their 69 drag car.

 

[Opentracker 4]

Questions for Opentracker:

 

I know rear leaf springs can wear out by losing their "arch" and need to be replaced, but do the front coil springs wear out also?

 

I replaced my original rear leaf springs with new stock rating leafs and it made a huge difference in ride quality. I'm not sure if I still have the 40-year old original coils on the front or if someone replaced them over the years. I like the stance of the car but feel it's a little stiff in day to day driving, especially over less than perfect roads. I wondered if at some point they'd been replaced with lowered 620 lb coils? I'm debating on buying a set of new stock 350 lb front coils. The car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C-4V with Export Bar and Monte Carlo bar and they really helped tighten the front of the car. It has new Bilstein Gas Shocks also.

 

My final question to you is if the front coils are worn out, should I replace them with a stock 350 lb coils or perhaps your Progressive Rate Coils? It's a street car for crusing and not a track car. What springs do you recommend for a 351 car. The Small block coils (390-520) or big block (460-600). If I replace the coils I will definitely be adding your roller perches also as I've always heard great reviews on your products and respect your opinion. Thanks in advance.

 

 

I wouldn't say leaf springs or coil springs wear out. They loose spring rate after a while is all. Drag racers want the old soft worn out front springs because they are tall and have a light spring rate. I have some original coil springs in some of our cars. It all depends on what your using the car for.

 

For your car, since you like the ride height and just want it to ride better, you might try a set or roller perches first. They soften up the spring rate, give a smoother ride and make the cars drive a lot better over less than perfect road conditions. They make enough of a change that you might not want/need to replace the springs. We have a forum member special of $175 including shipping ( not trying to sell parts, just point this fact out ) going on. If your handy with tools you can make your own.

 

If you do decide to go with a different spring, either the softer of the two progressive coils will work or a stock replacement spring with some coil cutting done to get the ride height you want. You will need to trim the progressive coils also as they come standard ride height. It sounds like someone replaced your coils at some point. A stock original spring would be soft and would not give a stiff ride.

 

Just to show that free height doesn't mean all that much. Here are two 560lb (.620 is the spring OD - that's why they call 'em 620's) springs and a set of stockers. The spring on the left is for a 65-66, the one in the middle is for a 67-73. The one on the right is what came out of our 68 small block Ranchero. When I put the 1" drop 560lb spring in (middle spring) it only lowered the car 1/2". I sent the tall stock springs to a drag team to use on their 69 drag car.

 

[Jayru 17]

A rear sway bar would sure cut down on the body roll and would be a good place to start. I would try that first. It would cost the least and take the least amout of time.

 

It may not fix all the issues though. Old springs aren't as big of a problem as worn out bushings. If the springs are stock and using the stock shackle kit and the front bushing, that could cause the rear end to float from side to side giving that odd feeling. Worn bushings will also increase the body roll.

 

 

The Del-Alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West is an option. It replaces the stock rubber bushings with greaseable solid bushings. They free up the rear suspension much like the roller parts do up front. With solid bushings, the rear end won't float from side to side and there is less need for a sway bar and panhard bar.

 

I think you may be on to something with the rear bushings. Thinking about it more... My car has a great ride height in the rear and feels very stiff, so i don't think the leaf springs are worn/sagging.

 

I noticed/checked the stiffness while pushing up/down on the car yesterday. But... something weird happened, when i pushed up/down on a sideways angle i heard a clunk and it seemed like the rear stepped out ever so slightly. Could this be the bushings allowing the side to side movement of the rear?

 

I've also always heard a quick rubbing noise under rear suspension load/unload from the DS rear. I've checked numerous times and have never found the spot that was rubbing. I'm wondering now if it's the front spring mount hitting the frame or something (because the bushing is worn)?

 

What do you think? How much are those Del-Alum leaf spring bushing kit's?