69 mach 408w build

[Angel 24]

Oh. Yea I'm going with the cast crank. Should fit my needs well. I wish my plans required a forged crank. But not for this build.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

what are your plans?

 

the shop recommended i just go with a forged crank (since i needed a new flywheel/balancer) so it would go internal. the cost difference was probably on the order of $400.

[Angel 24]

Im going to build a 408 for my daily driver. Goal is 400hp/400tq, at least. Small heads(170TFS) and a conservative cam. Roller everything. Cast steel will easily handle those numbers. I've read great stuff about scat cranks from numerous sources and I'm set on using their cranks. Forged would be sweet, but its overkill for my needs. Heck, a cast iron crank will handle that power but I'm going with cast steel for peace of mind. On summit's catalog, the cast steel scat crank is rated at 700hp. That might be a bit generous but I don't doubt that it will handle at least 550hp with ease. So I should be good. I don't blame you for going forged. I've been following your build and those high ports are gonna make some power!

[ak70stang 11]

Any new pics?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

it's been too cold out to do any painting on the car itself.

 

i've been working on the sealers/sound deadeners on the inside of the cabin.

 

i used Spectrum Sludge on the seams. I'm not really happen with the results. However, this was the test bed (since it won't be seen) for the application to be applied to the trunk area.

 

I added just a little bit of the additive to the Spectrum to thicken it up a bit. I used a brush to dab at the Spectrum. It's water based, so once it tried it wasn't as thick as I wanted and the texture wasn't quite what i wanted. I have a gun that i'm going to play around with.

 

 

 

 

i have about 80% of the sound deadener applied in the interior. I still need to put a little more in the cowl/firewall area. i have the firewall pad, and want to make sure that you won't be able to see it through the firewall pad (mainly in the steering column area) by trimming the excess. I don't care about the underside of the cowl since a person would have to climb in the car to see it from underneath.

 

i will apply additional matting when the carpeting goes in.

 

i applied dynamat extreme and 1/4" dynaliner to the roof while it was upside down on the rotisserie. I believe the original insulation was around 1/2" total but was very soft.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i cleaned and painted 26 piece parts early this week. mainly parts of the dash assembly and steering column. i'm waiting on some paint to arrive before i finish painting the charcoal metallic steel parts.

 

i would have preferred to media blast the lower dash, but my cabinet isn't large enough and there is about 5" of snow outside.

 

so i used Aircraft Stripper (brush applied) for the painted areas and Rust Cutter (just an acid i found at Tractor Supply) for the rusted areas. There was a modest amount of rust on the front side where there had been paint.

 

on another forum, someone recommended the Aerosol stripper for paint. Because i was out of the brush on stripper, i thought i would try the aerosol since i only needed to do the dash. It sucked. I kept spraying it on to keep it wet, but after an hour is barely coming off. So i went and got a quart of the brush on remover and in about 10 minutes the paint was lifted.

 

i've often read about how chemical rust remover convert or neutralize rust. in my opinion this is somewhat BS. I used the acids on the occasions when the pitting it a little deep or the media blaster didn't quite get it out. I found when you see the "blackened" rust, if you work at it with a stainless bristle brush it will turn brown. eventually those black pits can be worked out and removed.

 

backside spot of the lower dash

 

I'm waiting for the paint and then i'll wash and scrub the residues off.

 

 

 

 

i refinished the wiper motor and assembly. i know you can't see the wiper motor, but i had to separate the parts for paint and also so i could see what was inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is after cleaning and reassembly of the internals.

The cast aluminum part was painted with the Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum and the bottom was topcoated with the flattened black urethane. Fasteners were phosphated.

 

I still need to test the unit.

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

awhile ago i mentioned doing a test of the durability of a phosphate and oiled part (like my hood hinges).

 

so i media blasted a piece of sheet metal and phosphated part of it (and oiled). i patted the oiled part dry and hung the part outside.

 

I expecting to reapply some protectant to many parts periodically once the car is on the road. So my expectations of the durability isn't all that high. However there are lots of phosphated fasteners, zinc plated parts, threads that may have gotten paint removed that will need additional protection as well.

 

 

 

i'll update this post when significant changes occur.

 

 

 

12/27/10 12pm. Initial Pics (before taking outside)

 

sample part

 

P&O (white stuff is lint from the paper towel)

 

Bare media blasted steel

 

12/29/10 1pm.

Two days with afternoon highs in the low 30's. Partly sunny. No changes worth noting.

 

 

12/30/10 5pm

-about 16 hours of light drizzle and the sun finally came out. temps in the upper 30's low 40's.

-noticeable rust on the unprotected side. nothing to note on the P&O

 

 

 

 

1/1/11 3PM

-two more days. temps in the 50's and another solid day of rain.

-about 75% rust on the unprotected side. nothing to note on the P&O

 

 

 

 

1/12/11 9pm

-typical ohio winter weather. crummy. several days of snow. 20's to 30's. i found the sample laying in the snow. i'm not sure how long it was there, maybe two days.

 

no significant changes in the last two weeks. the P&O part still looks good. this is personally encouraging to me. i was concerned that i would have to reapply the oil type protectant after a good rain or two. doesn't appear to be the case at all.

 

 

 

 

1/23/11 2pm

-more snow days. definitely more snow than normal here. 20's to 30's.

 

the P&O part still looks good. bare metal is pretty much fully covered in surface rust.

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Looks like you are making some nice progress! :winkiss:

[RogerC 136]

BD,

On the lower dash I cleaned the backside of mine with a wire brush, treated it with Metal Ready and painted it with white rustoleum. Yours looks rustier than mine was though. Mine is in the car under a tarp right now but subject to condensation and it looks fine so far.

[jmlay 80]

I have o tell you I was skeptical of Evapo-Rust until I tried, then I was amazed. It does not turn rust black it removes it & the part is left a dull gray. I it is not a protestant so the part will rust if not painted or coated in some fashion. I have tried several different metal preps that can be bought at the local home store & also metal ready. Both leave a coating after the part is soaked. I have a friend that did his hood hinges with this solution then cleared them & has had no issues.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i phosphated and installed the rear exhaust hangers so i was able to finish up the sound deadener (as much as possible for this stage). i used about 70 square feet to cover the roof, floors, firewall and cowl as you see in the pictures.

 

 

 

 

i'm working on trying to get the fuel system (lines, filter, etc) worked out during the winter. I've got most of the parts. Trying to do this in 1/2" has been a real pain. Anybody out there try to run 1/2"?

 

 

I may start masking the car up and get ready to spray the engine compartment. I haven't quite decided on that yet.

 

 

Good news from the speed shop. The crank balanced very well, and only a little weight had to be removed from the crank. All the machining, clearancing and balancing is finished. He's started assembly and feels it will be about another 2-3 weeks. He confirmed the pistons are slightly out of the hole.

[maxum96 32]

I have 1/2" fuel line. It's a mix of aluminum hard line and braided steel line with AN fittings. The only place I follow the stock location is from about the rear of the doors forward up to where the fuel line goes through the fender apron.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i thought about aluminum (still may go that route), considered stainless, and plan on using cunifer. i was slightly unsure of the durability of aluminum (probably would be fine). i wanted stainless but felt like bending 1/2" would be impossible.

 

i'll play around with the copper nickel to see how workable it will be. like you, everything else will be AN fittings and braided (black PTFE) hose.

 

i'm hoping to route the lines as close to original as possible. i'm making a bracket to hold an inline filter up on the wheelwell side of the rear frame rail (so hopefully it's hidden from about every angle).

 

i won't be running a return line since my mechanical pump is internally regulated...

 

i've never used the AN style fittings so just learning the terminology and what's compatible with what has taken a little time.

 

what tool did you use to bend the 1/2" aluminum?

[maxum96 32]

i've never used the AN style fittings so just learning the terminology and what's compatible with what has taken a little time.

 

what tool did you use to bend the 1/2" aluminum?

 

 

I used a cheapo tubing bender. The 1/2" aluminum tubing that Summit, Moroso, etc. sell is hand malleable. So it's pretty easy to bend. The nice thing about AN fittings is that they're very easy to work with today (compared to 25+ years ago) and they usually make fittings to adapt to just about anything.

 

You are definitely going over the top on your build compared to mine. You're starting to make me look bad! lol I guess I need to do a better job on my craftsmanship. I'm getting ready to start phase II of my build. I'm going to be replace both full quarter panels and trunk floor/ transition pan. Then paint. Hopefully mine will come out half as good as your's is!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

robbmc fuel pump sender. it's got 1/2" feed and return lines. if i had to do it again i would have paid a little more to get them with AN-8 fittings. instead i had to cut the rib off and install a compression hard line adapter.

 

 

i couldn't find a good mechanical pump with a filter so i had to get an inline filter. this was from RobbMC and flows something ridiculous. It's got a replaceable filter.

i'm trying to stuff it inline up on the frame rail in the wheel well so hopefully it won't be too noticeable.

 

i installed 1/4-20 threaded inserts into the frame and made a bracket to hold the filter.

 

 

 

i have a roll of 1/2" cunifer which is a 90/10 copper/nickel allow. it bends just like copper. i'm using a 1.5" radius bender from Rigid. I've discovered that bending lines is a major pain and confusing. it's quite difficult to figure out the next bend and how to make it given the physical obstacles on the car (while the tube is at odd angles) and given the constraints of the bender. i bought a 10' roll of 3/8 ID copper tube to play with first.

 

the cunifer has a tint to it. i was able to get a couple of different appearances out of it by:

 

1. polish with a loose wheel and rouge.

2. polish with a spiral wheel and tripoli.

3. wire wheel

 

i'll probably end up polishing the lines with the spiral wheel. the rouge produces a beautiful finish but too flashy for this car.

 

rouge on the left, tripoli in the middle section and wire wheel on the very far right.

 

comparison of the rouge and the wire wheeled finish

 

tripoli finished section. i got some 1/2" stainless clamps from Altha fastener. unfortunately i couldn't find any that could work with the original size fastener. so i had to install 10-24 threaded inserts into the existing holes. because this slightly lifted the clamp, i had to make a slight bend in the clamps and grind a little off the end. minor detail.

[rangerdoc 22]

Looks real nice, professional and safe. Replacing my lines (though not to your extent) is one of my many future projects to do.

[Angel 24]

That all looks very nice. I plan to replace my fuel line in a few weeks but with 3/8". That should be adequate for my build. How much was the sending unit? Im sure I'll have to upgrade that as well.

[ak70stang 11]

Looks very nice! I like the threaded inserts and crazy filter.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i spoke with the speed shop today. he believes he should be finished up next week. the has some more pictures that he'll be sending me.

 

here was at least a pic of the K1 forged 4.1" crank. he said just a little bit of weight had to come out to balance. that's good to me since no heavy metal and hopefully it didn't take too long.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

How much was the sending unit?

 

prices are available on the website:

 

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products.html

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

heads are getting installed tomorrow. i'm detailing the motor, so i explicitly asked for no paint.

 

 

 

[stangme428 33]

looking good!! that canton setup holds a TON of oil!!! nice work!!:yes:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

it's actually just the 7 qt version not the 9 qt.

 

i can't take credit for the work in the pictures. just the selection of parts. so i'll only have myself to blame when it doesn't make any power.

[buening 63]

What water pump is that? It looks a bit different than what I am used to seeing.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

it's a FlowKooler 1681 aluminum. passenger side inlet.