69 mach 408w build

[sportsroof69 13]

sportsroof,

 

good luck on the shaker! i had 15 years to think about how i was going to fit that thing in this car with the victor. i was amazed at how many people stay away from using a good manifold when they have a shaker car. i've seen some fit a shaker with some different manifolds but they never looked very good when the hood was open.

 

i hope you're right about the traction device. i almost went with the slide a links. and honestly went with the caltracs based purely on aesthetics.

 

 

I probably won't do it now. Maybe something to work on later.

 

There are lots of fast cars running Caltracs, because they work well. My car had the worst wheel hop I've ever seen, and when I put them on, it stopped, and I was routinely cutting 1.7 60' times at the track, on a drag radial. The only downside, is you pick up a little noise from the solid bushing.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i put the car back up on the rotisserie for the final time so i can get ready to paint the undercarriage and spot spray some red oxide in the engine compartment areas.

 

 

 

i'm 99% sure i used the welder for the final time on the body and panels. i added some stitch welds to the front leaf spring supports and finished some weld spots on the floor support crossmember. i had to notch it for the TKO. i had made a bracket to box in where i had cut. if i would have went to the short input shaft version i could have saved another 3/4" of the crossmember. oh well.

 

 

 

i had the paint mixed for the undercarriage. it's PPG shopline single stage urethane (like what i've been using for SS topcoats thus far). It's a little lighter in person. I had them add some heavy metallic toner to a separate container so i can mix the amount i want to the batch. the original undercarriage had a hint of metallic in it. it will lighten the color a bit. although i may lighten up a bit more. well see. the picture shows the color "cool dark gray" and the straight J71 toner.

 

i also got a quart of the SS urethane in a Chrysler Burnished Silver Poly. It resembled the Rustoleum stainless steel paint i had been using. My plan is to use this to paint the 8 body mounting locations.

 

the PPG SS urethane is very reasonably priced at $26/quart.

 

 

not really any updates on the motor. it's been bored 30 over and they were getting ready to set it up to check the main's. the crankshaft hadn't arrived as of two weeks ago but they were expecting it this week.

 

they did end up going with a 4.1", so it will be 418 ci.

[Fordrevhead 29]

they did end up going with a 4.1", so it will be 418 ci.

 

Looking great... crap now you have to rename your project thread, lol.

 

I just bought another project so I really need to hunker down out in the shop this winter or my threads will never get to this level!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

yep, the thread name is kind of garbage now!

 

what did you get?

 

i really want a 63 1/2 galaxie XL but my rule is no other projects until this one is at 90% completion. i can't handle too many distractions...

[Fordrevhead 29]

I tried to resist but the wife made me buy it!! LOL, how many people can say that?! A 64-1/2 coupe, originally a CA car, owned by the present owner since 1979, never saw a winter, stored in a barn since 1987 less than 2 miles from my house! I knew it was there but honestly it had been so long I completely forgot. As soon as it showed up for sale I got an email from a friend... nice when everyone knows you are THE Mustang guy around. Anyway, this build will be a husband wife project for her. I told her I would get it running and driving but my 70 coupe build comes before this one. Enough for now dont want to muddy up your project thread I will start a new one elsewhere.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

stripped, epoxied and painted several parts over the last few days. i mixed up a couple batches of the urethane gray and altered the color a bit by adding some white toner to the mix. i flattened the mix by about 25% for each set. i was trying to get some contrast in the "slop gray" parts.

 

the coil is an MSD Blaster 2. it was red, but was also media blasted and epoxied with DP black which i would consider somewhere between semi gloss and flat. the yellow was just a valspar enamel.

 

[unfrozen1969 11]

Nice work, they look really clean....

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finished detailing the lower control arms. it took about four days to paint these due to having to mask almost each stage. a variety of color were used including the previously mentioned chrysler metallic. the black is relatively glossy even though the picture softened it up a bit. i was trying to replicate the dipped glossier look.

 

i had opentracker send them to me unpainted. i was concerned how he painted them and didn't want paint on the plated rubber boot retainer ring on the top.

 

i removed the jack tabs off of my old lower control arms and plug welded them on to these.

 

 

[Jayru 17]

Did you buy the lower control arm braces or make them? What's the thickness of the steel?

 

Looking good!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i purchased completed arms. i couldn't justify buying a kit (or cutting the parts, finding bearings, etc) as well as buying new lower control arms and welding my own.

 

for reference, the steel reinforcement measures somewhere around 14/15 gauge and is 13" long.

[maxum96 32]

Buckeye, nice attention to detail You are certainly going all out!

 

I boxed in my LCA's too. I did it myself. It was pretty easy to do. I want to say I used either 12ga or 14ga steel. I can't remember for sure. I just rattle can sprayed them when I was done. My car is not a daily driver or a concourse show car. So I wasn't overly worried about the appearance.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

after a week of sanding and bloody finger tips, i've started spraying some color. the weather forecast was calling for temps in the mid 60's so i had to hammer and get this complete by tomorrow night.

 

 

 

parts of the outer aprons and the underside of the engine compartment will stay red oxide. i mixed some black DP with the red oxide DP to darken up the color. i'm trying to get some contrast with the fenders/front valance (underside will be finished with a shade of the red oxide).

 

 

i had sanded thru in a lot of spot so i had to re-epoxy with 2 coats.

 

 

i also sprayed the urethane silver on the body mounts. i've got to wait a day of dry time before i put the caps on the silver mounts and spray the final color from the firewall back. i should have that complete tomorrow evening.

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

final undercarriage color.

 

i'll remove the plugs and tape tomorrow.

 

 

here was some of the original undercarriage paint buried under the red overspray and black pinch weld overspray

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

pulled the plugs where i had sprayed the silver paint. i've got the front end almost fully sanded and is almost ready for a warm day so i can spray the semi gloss black.

 

 

 

while the car is still on the rotisserie, i went ahead and applied the rear wheelwell sound deadener and some sound deadener to the roof of the car.

 

here is a short video of the before and after from installing some of the deadener to the roof. it's certainly not any scientific experiment but a snapshot. simply adding weight dulls the noise in the panel. i used three applications of Spectrum on the inside of the door skins.

 

click on the following picture for the video...

[ak70stang 11]

Looks sweet! Cant wait to see this thing with some color on it!

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Nice work! :thumbup1:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i used a fine scotch brite pad and scuffed the sides and tanks of the radiator. i used eastwoods semi gloss radiator paint. i wish i knew if the paint was actually something special or just semi gloss black enamel marked up in price.

 

i thought it sprayed like crap. why can't spray cans use the nicer spray nozzle?

 

anyways i bought three cans and used just a little over one can.

 

this is a griffin aluminum radiator. the look of aluminum wouldn't have looked right at all on this car.

 

 

[Fordrevhead 29]

Looks great, at first I thought you were going to spray the core for through the grille viewing and leave the tanks. Anyway, I read on the Eastwood forum that regular high temp paints can reduce the cooling effect through the core and their rad paint somehow doesnt. Hocus Pocus but this is the claim.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i can only speculate the reason for high temp paints not being good is the inclusion of ceramic.

 

i just wonder if the temp range is any different from any other paint.

 

i never planned on just spraying the fins. if i wanted to see the aluminum i would have went with a cheaper radiator.

[50dan 25]

Sent you an email...are you really gonna drive this when it's done, if so your nuts!!! LOL

 

Soon as I get my 66 Fairlane running I'll need some help on my 69!

Edited December 2, 2010 by 50dan

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i love the 66/67 fairlanes as well. i really want a 63 1/2 galaxie. a 66 GT hardtop is high on my wish list as well.

 

mine will be a weekend warrior. my friend has two ultra rare 70 challengers that he doesn't drive. it completely drives me crazy to see those cars just sit in the garage.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I almost bought a 67 Fairlane project a few years back. That and 68 Torino Formal roof I love too!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

minor engine update.

 

Scat continues to promise a crank but won't set any date. So I'm going with a K1 crank. the engine shop doesn't like the K1's as well and doesn't like the fact that they are cross drilled (even though the website claims they aren't). he's just happy to not work on eagle parts.

 

i considered a Callies but really don't have the need for something that high end.

 

hopefully just a few more weeks.

[Angel 24]

Is it a custom crank? Because I called around for quotes on a probe kit that used a scat crank and everyone I called said they could get it in about a day.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

standard weight 4340 forged 4.1".

 

maybe some companies have stock. when i look at summit they move the expected ship date back every few days and currently shows about 1 month. Jegs as is typical shows a much shorter ship date which is bogus. i've been waiting 2.5 months.

 

i'm not sure what you are going with but the Scat cast cranks are available everywhere.

 

my shop was getting the crank directly from scat.