Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) They have a special circuit for dimming LED's They work very well. If you are using the headlight dimmer that came with the car and it is jumpy then you may need to Get a dimmer circuit. They help stabilize the voltage from the dimmer switch. blue08, that looks like a nice option. i was under the impression the dimmer didn't work with led's and that site claims they do (i wonder how well it dims though). thanks. Edited November 20, 2011 by Silver_69_Coupe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted November 20, 2011 http://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/ Found this kit awhile back, haven't ordered it yet due to spending on other, more important things like brakes and a new battery. But it seems really convenient to just swap them over and not have to mess with anything else. I'll be getting the stock "coke bottle green" color one. Believe it was the "extreme series" I will give those a shot in my Mach. Thanks for the link! It's amazing how dim the factory clusters are illuminated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted November 20, 2011 i finally pulled a bunch of pics from an old computer that had crashed. i had started posting in this build thread pretty late after i had started working on this car. so i thought i would post just a few of those funny pics never shown before. basically the week i had finally lugged the car out of its storage location (something like 12 years...) and brought it to the house. a pic of the undercarriage at the axle/floorplan location pic of the transmission tunnel underside looking at the cutout in the floor and upper transmission crossmember. it had metal pop riveted in. someone wanted an easy way to install the Hurst Super Comp shifter. some of the ugliness of the front frame rail extension/torque box before replacing most everything here. the very first mockup install of the engine to get an idea of how many issues i was going to have with the shaker. some pics of the undercarriage just before media blasting. sketching out some initial concepts of what the frame rail routing might look like. pic of the FPA header after removing as much of the original tubing as needed. one primary had it's temporary tubing held in with hose clamps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 i masked and sprayed the A-pillars. the assembly manual indicated a 1/4" in from the edge so that's as far as i went (hope it's right). on the other end i went all the way to the pinch weld. i basically scuffed with some gray scotch brite, epoxied and mixed up some semi gloss black. i also sprayed the two pillar trim pieces the black charcoal metallic. masked and sprayed 1/4" over per the assembly manual. sprayed all the way over to the pinchweld/lace. it also sealed the exposed metal from the nuts i had welded to the pillar. i also installed a pre-cut insulation kit from Quiet Ride Solutions. It was pretty well done. It went in relatively easy. they provided a very quick set spray adhesive and seam tape as well. carpet goes in next. it's just sitting in the car at this point. you can see the holes in the pillar trim when the tach isn't connected. also redid the fuel line. there isn't a whole lot left in the engine compartment and undercarriage. i'm waiting on the clips and fasteners for the fenders. have a good thanksgiving. it's super swap weekend... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 Looking good. Carpet fits extremely well. Where did you order it from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 Looking good. Carpet fits extremely well. Where did you order it from? it's ACC carpet. ordered it from CJ pony. i can't say it fits well quite yet... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted November 25, 2011 it fit pretty well. i didn't remove the jute that was already attached to the carpet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted November 25, 2011 lookin good - it has to start feeling more and more like a car with the interior coming together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted November 26, 2011 lookin good - it has to start feeling more and more like a car with the interior coming together. you're right. the carpet gives it a whole new feel. i won't be getting the butyl sticky stuff (from dynamat) on my pants anymore. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted November 28, 2011 hey Demon, lokoing awesome man!!!!!!! that fuel line actually makes a really noticeable difference in the stock feel of the engine bay, much more sleepy now....LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69_mach_1 10 Report post Posted December 2, 2011 Hey Buckeye, your build is awesome!! I have just started mine. It has been sitting for 15 years!! I'm just about to install the Dynamat and noticed that you didn't use it in the trunk area, why? And what type of gun did you use and what material did you spray for sound deadening? Keep up the great posts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 2, 2011 It has been sitting for 15 years!! I'm just about to install the Dynamat and noticed that you didn't use it in the trunk area, why? And what type of gun did you use and what material did you spray for sound deadening? Keep up the great posts. mine sat for a long time too. life isn't easy. no dynamat in the trunk, simply because a person could see it if they lifted up the trunk mat. plus there isn't really any large steel area in the trunk that needs mass added. i sprayed the sound deadener on the center of quarter panels and that probably represents the largest panel that is susceptible to oscillations. this is a copy of a post awhile back. hope that answers your question. thanks. finished up the sound deadeners/sealers in the trunk area. everything was scuffed. i used the 3m 2-part heavy bodied seam sealer on the joints. i then used the spectrum second skin in the sound deadener gun to apply the material. about 60 lbs at the regulator (25 ft hose) seemed to work the best. on the strips i held the gun tip about 1-2" away from the metal. i applied two applications waiting about 6 hours between applications. i just need to let this cure for a week and then i can think about the epoxy and final paint in the trunk area. for the cost, i'm relatively happy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 2, 2011 for those who may have an interest in motorcycles, this was one my uncle did several years ago. it made the centerfold of a popular magazine at the time. i was lucky to grow up with many uncles who were always doing something... he's also done a lot of cars... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted December 2, 2011 (edited) That Bel Air is sweet! Not a big fan of the bike but I can certainly appreciate the work that went into it! OCC SR VS JR VS Jesse James build off on Discovery 12/5 for anyone interested in bike building ... And drama lol. I was lucky to have a jack of all trades Dad and an Uncle that did body work growing up as well. My Uncle has stopped by on his Harley with his riding buddy and asked if he could see the Mustang on the rotisserie. The last time my Dad visited I took him out to the shop and he looked around at the projects and asked, "when did you get so good at this shit?". Lol. It made me smile. I imagine you get the same and You should be smiling too Dan! Btw I got the parts last night will open it up tonight, thanks! Edited December 2, 2011 by Fordrevhead Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 3, 2011 Not a big fan of the bike but I can certainly appreciate the work that went into it! Btw I got the parts last night will open it up tonight, thanks! yep, the bike is really just a very unique show piece. i'd like to see how those valve covers look on your engine :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 i had installed an LED kit from HipoParts (Blue08 reference) for the instrument cluster. i got the brightest series. they claimed the dimmer worked so my thought process was to simply get the brightest and i could turn them down. the dimmer barely works. they dim ever so slightly then turn off. my added gauges behave just the same. they are really bright and then turn off with the dimmer. so i guess they do match those. the two large gauges are too bright in my opinion. the sides are about right. i reused all of the blue covers. they were dull but not melted. i also repainted the metal cases gloss white. if i were to do it again i wouldn't go with the brightest kit. it's really hard to get a representative example with the camera. it's much brighter in person. the turn signal indicators are perfect (hard to tell in pictures) everything is brighter in person. two two side gauges are perfect in my opinion. no lights... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) trunk is close to finished. carpet is officially installed ...and still waiting for the fasteners so i can hang the fenders... Edited December 4, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 Add A resistor in series. Start with 1K then adjust the size until you get the range you want on the dimmer. The other option would be to get a LED Dimmer kit and use it instead of your dimmer. The dimmer kits work extremely well. Looking excellent. the dimmer barely works. they dim ever so slightly then turn off. my added gauges behave just the same. they are really bright and then turn off with the dimmer. so i guess they do match those. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted December 5, 2011 Or put a one light in the string instead of the LED. This should make the dimmer work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 10, 2011 finally fabbed up the driveshaft loop. i started with a universal kit from summit that i had gotten about 17 years ago... the only part i used was the loop. i trimmed a little off and welded the two halves together. i cut some 1/4" plate to make the side brackets and cut up some 1/8" 2X1 box tubing for the connector pieces. it's located about 4.5" from the u-joint centerline but the first fastener is about 7" from the centerline. hopefully i won't be forced to have to ever argue with any tech. i plan on painting it the same color as the undercarriage with the loop painted the same stainless steel paint as the driveshaft. 1 MorganLeBlanc reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ak70stang 11 Report post Posted December 10, 2011 Looks nice! Did you sleeve the inside of the frame rail? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 10, 2011 Looks nice! Did you sleeve the inside of the frame rail? no sleeves. i was planning ahead when i had built the subframe connectors. i had welded 1/2" grade 8 nuts on the inside of the 11 gauge metal. two near the front and two near the rear on each frame rail. there intention was for some sort of cross brace/loop near the front and rear. i had to wait to make the loop for when everything was assembled again with the driveshaft. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted December 11, 2011 painted and installed. now the exhaust can be installed. when i have the money.... 1 MorganLeBlanc reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted December 12, 2011 looks slick. Great attention to detail. So how many years in are you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted December 12, 2011 Loop looks fantastic! I'll probably have to modify my tin man one like that if I ever change exhaust. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites