bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 no worries. i didn't take it personal. the distributor and fuel line are the most noticeable to me as well. it helps to know what others see. good, cause you know once i get started on the cougar i'll be expecting the same kinds of reviews from you as well :blushing: i still haven't made up my mind 100% if i'm going straight up sleeper or if i'm gonna do more of a vintage street machine vibe with it or a combo of both. i do know that after watching the guys on MuscleCar paint their Comet gasser that I definitely want some flake and some candy paint and a little pinstriping and some pearl paint as well. but I'm only going to do the roof of the car; i was already planning on doing the roof pearl white before i saw that show and then i decided i wanted to some 70's style panel painting on it as well, but most likely something small like just on the sail panels to kinda pull the car back to late 70's/early 80's era which will be perfect with the vintage canyon carver theme i've been leaning very heavily towards for a long time now, i think it'll work just about perfectly. the engine bay will have a few obvious bolt-on mods and a whole bunch of hidden mods too, but i'm trying to decide exactly how much i wanna show off under there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 Car looks great, Buckeye. Too pretty to take outside. If I recall, yours is a Dearborn car, right? So, is that slop gray for the bumper supports? And the hood latch support? yep. also the battery tray, outer shock tower support, stone deflector support, outer valance brackets and front fender extension to radiator support brackets. i had a grayish color mixed and added some white toner and flattener to give them different shades. i think they are too light. especially when next to the black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 yep. also the battery tray, outer shock tower support, stone deflector support, outer valance brackets and front fender extension to radiator support brackets. i had a grayish color mixed and added some white toner and flattener to give them different shades. i think they are too light. especially when next to the black. Thanks. My vert's a Dearborn car. Since I'm going to miss getting it on the road this year, I've decided to take the time to get some of the subtle stuff right while I cut, buff, and reassemble it this fall and winter. Your pic's help a lot, I thought my bumper brackets should be black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted September 18, 2011 I love this thread, great inspiration! Regarding the paint on the lower dash and steering column, you used "low gloss dark charcoal black metallic lacquer (32586)". I don't have the area or the tools to use an air sprayer. How can I dupicate that color in a spray can. Do you know if a mfg sells that particular color. It looks Great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 19, 2011 Regarding the paint on the lower dash and steering column, you used "low gloss dark charcoal black metallic lacquer (32586)". I don't have the area or the tools to use an air sprayer. How can I duplicate that color in a spray can. Do you know if a mfg sells that particular color. It looks Great. you could take the code to your local paint shop and have them mix the color put it in an aerosol can. i believe most mustang distributors sell aerosol versions of the interior paint in an aerosol can as well. i don't know what the color looks like. good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 driveshaft is installed. temporarilly anyways. it will eventually get painted. it took about 1 week from the time i ordered to when it arrived. preliminary measurements indicate about 1 to 1.5 degrees of u-joint angle on both ends. clutch linkage is setup (big pain, as i forgot the trick to installing everything). i have a little more wiring to do before i can try to kick the starter and find some issues. as you can see, i'm missing a rag joint. so if you know of an nice original, let me know.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustang1216688 10 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) which headers are you using? Edited September 22, 2011 by mustang1216688 miss spelled Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
50dan 25 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 Nice work so far! Maybe you can stop over and give me a hand on my 69 sometime! Maybe I missed it but where did you get the z bar setup? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 which headers are you using? FPA (ford powertrain applications) stepped 1 3/4" long tubes. i'm not a big fan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 Maybe you can stop over and give me a hand on my 69 sometime! Maybe I missed it but where did you get the z bar setup? if you need some help, then certainly let me know. you aren't too far away. that's my hack job on the z-bar setup. the z-bar has been relocated, i made the two holders for the z-bar, the z-bar was cut and the bottom half completely reworked, the lower rod was completely reworked and the upper rod was completely reworked. it's part of the side effect of high port heads and a lakewood scattershield. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) It runs! Video attached. i'm still in disbelief that a little over 2.5 weeks ago i was painting the shell I literally hooked the battery up for the first time last night. Tonight i added some fuel and coolant and started it up. it starts great. as soon as i saw the fuel in the bowls through the sites, i kicked the throttle and pop. the first startup (no video) was just to warm it up so i could check for any water or fuel leaks and get it warm. it still had the dyno oil in it. this video is from the second start. i was resetting the timing to 30 degrees at some point in the run. everything so far seems good. oil pressure is about 50 to 60. fuel pressure is about 6.5 psi and the temp was around 170 to 180. i had the rev limiter set down to 6k so i was hitting that quite a few times. the lowest it was idling was about 1k. enjoy! click on the picture for the video. sorry for the shaky video. hard to hold the camera. Edited September 25, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon higher quality and combined video Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 Congratulations man! Sounds good. What exhaust will you be running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 not sure. i can't decide between the Spintech Sportsman's, Magnaflows or Flowmaster 40's. it will be stainless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 Fantastic!!! I'm almost there myself, but a 1/4 of the power you got. I know that anticapated feeling. First time jitters. Great thread to follow, keep posting. Good Luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 Nice! Sounds great! Pretty lopey at 1k. How much run time did it get on the dyno? You are at like the weather tight shell stage of a house. In the last few weeks all of the framing came together, the roof went on and went from A to B in what seemed crazy fast. All of your hard work and planning is coming together! I take it your neighbors are well aware as well... lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 When i get bored or need a 'fix' i just start from page one of this thread...lol coming along nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 Nice! Sounds great! Pretty lopey at 1k. How much run time did it get on the dyno? You are at like the weather tight shell stage of a house. In the last few weeks all of the framing came together, the roof went on and went from A to B in what seemed crazy fast. All of your hard work and planning is coming together! I take it your neighbors are well aware as well... lol good analogy. a lot of parts were detailed and prepped awhile ago so it would be easy to install quickly. the machine shop did 8 pulls on the engine. i don't know how long it was run prior to the first pull. he recommended i start the engine, get it warm and then change the oil. and the neighbors...i bought my house based on location so i could do body work and such and not worry too much about the neighbors. i'm sure they got used to hearing the grinders while i was doing metal work for the last few years. they seem to be interested in the project as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 When i get bored or need a 'fix' i just start from page one of this thread...lol coming along nice. my dad's cousin made a comment about another 69 mustang in the build phase located a couple of miles from him. i'm wondering if it's you? he lives up in the Creston/Sterling area. He owns Troxell auto sales. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 That'd be me. My sister just bought a car from there...small world! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 not sure or not this was the fuel filler mod that's recommended, but it was a mod i found recently. hopefully it does really cure the fuel splash problem i've had in my other two cars. cut the tube in half, then cut up a piece of 14 gauge steel i had laying around. after the tube was rewelded and welds ground. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 That is definitely cool! I hate spilling fuel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted October 9, 2011 I always scan your progress for ideas and inspiration. I was looking at post #442 of your lower dash panel. Since I don't have access to a paint booth, I've been limited to spray cans and found a pretty good product called Accumatch, 67-73 Ford Black Charcoal-Metallic(#L-4464). I was pleased with it, but I am concerned about the color of the plastic panels, such as the radio trim, outer dash trim, steering column lower cover and the cover hiding the steering column wires. Would you happen to know the color of each and it's sheen. Also, can you tell me what color Red you used on the 3rd member. Thanks in advance for your reply and I'm looking forward to more pictures! John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaoloMach1 11 Report post Posted October 9, 2011 man you're not human! AMAZING job!!:thumbup1::thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 9, 2011 I was looking at post #442 of your lower dash panel. Since I don't have access to a paint booth, I've been limited to spray cans and found a pretty good product called Accumatch, 67-73 Ford Black Charcoal-Metallic(#L-4464). I was pleased with it, but I am concerned about the color of the plastic panels, such as the radio trim, outer dash trim, steering column lower cover and the cover hiding the steering column wires. Would you happen to know the color of each and it's sheen. Also, can you tell me what color Red you used on the 3rd member.Thanks in advance for your reply and I'm looking forward to more pictures! John I'm not sure if you saw the note, but i did spray the commonly referenced dark charcoal metallic. it didn't match the original color very well (at least for my car). concerning the parts you mentioned: 1. radio trim. if you are referencing the brown/chrome panel, i purchased a repop. it looked very close to my original in my opinion. so didn't have to paint this. 2. outer dash trim. if you are talking about those small triangle shaped pieces, i believe i sprayed them only with PPG DP90 black which was reduced a little. it has a semi-gloss to flat finish. these pieces were definately painted from the factory. they didn't appear to contain any metallic and they were dull in finish. they could have been dull from sitting for 30 years, so i can't really say if that was original or not. the claim is that they're a flat black. by the way, the reproductions are HORRIBLE. terrible grain. 3. steering column lower cover (not shown in post #442) if you are referring to the piece of plastic with two screws held to the lower dash, then this piece was 100% not painted from the factory (on my car). it was definitely a molded black plastic with a decent amount of sheen. i personally decided to paint this the same as the lower dash. i had to make a repair to the one tab so i needed to get some paint on it. by the way, the reproduction part is HORRIBLE. flimsy plastic and terrible grain. 4. cover for steering column wires if you are referring to the metal piece approximately 1.5" wide and 8" inches long, then i painted it the same as the lower dash (and main parts of the steering column). it was originally the same metallic color as the lower dash and steering column. as noted above the dark charcoal metallic did not quite match these parts originally. i would call the original color and semi gloss. hard to rate gloss though. 5. third member i painted that with PPG DP74 reduced red oxide. the pinion support had a little DP50 (gray) mixed in to give it a little different color. see below (copied from post #72...) i wanted to give some contrast to the pinion support and third member since they were painted separately. the left is a 75/25 mix of DP74 (red oxide) and DP50 (gray). the right is DP74. to simulate the machined spots, i masked everything off and sprayed a silver metallic. the yoke is a Moser designed to be used with the large 1350 u-joints. i media blasted it, then sprayed epoxy followed by Seymour's cast blast. i then misted it with Dupli-Color Charcoal Metallic. The pinion snubber was painted Rustoleum Professional Series Stainless Steel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted October 9, 2011 You have answered all of my questions and I appreciate that you went into great length explaining your choice of paint. I can see why your work is perfect in every detail, you are perfectionist and it shows in your car. Thank you for taking the time to explain and enclosing photos of your work. Were waiting for whats next around the corner! John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites