69 mach 408w build

[Angel 24]

Thanks buckeye. They had not been painted to my knowledge. There was very little sound deadener on my car. Most of it is coming off with a chemical paint stripper. Looks like most of the under carriage was just painted black.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I assume given the level of your sharing that once you have a why and a solution we will here about the "gotchas?". Sometimes the what not to do's or watch out for this are more helpful then anything to others. Thanks

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I assume given the level of your sharing that once you have a why and a solution we will here about the "gotchas?". Sometimes the what not to do's or watch out for this are more helpful then anything to others. Thanks

 

so far:

 

1.

Problem: Rubber grommets don't fit in the two holes on the front inner passenger side frame rail up by the bumper brackets. i had replaced this with a patch panel that needed serious modifications. i had relocated holes, plugged holes, reshaped the part, added the two indentations, etc. it seems that i cut the two large holes too large. i would have thought i had measured the original and cut the same size in the new piece. it's been too long to remember.

 

i'm assuming since the other side fit correctly that the two holes in the repop metal were cut too large. so i'm not 100% positive root cause is me cutting them too large, but i'm 98% sure i did.

 

Solution: The seat pan plugs fit...

 

Hindsight: Should have ordered the grommets and verified.

 

 

 

2.

Problem: The aftermarket fuel filler tube won't fit through the tail light panel.

I thought that would be a simple install. Guess not. So i grabbed the original and it won't fit either. The original might be slightly smaller than the repop, but not by much. It appears to be the hole in the tail light panel was stamped to small or it could be that paint has built up (i was taping on either side depending on what i was sprayed). I'm about 80% sure it's paint buildup.

 

Solution: Not sure yet. I've got a couple ideas, but not overly concerned.

 

Hindsight: Should have test fit the filler tube.

 

 

 

3.

Problem: The repop rear from rail patch is missing the threaded nut welded internally that is used for the rear frame rail tie down brackets. I had replaced this section back in 94 so i'm sure i either didn't pay attention to the missing bolt, or felt it was used for anything.

 

Solution: I've got a couple ideas, but it's not on my high priority list.

 

Hindsight: Should have welded a nut on the inside of the frame rail.

 

 

Problem side:

 

Installed side

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

and Revhead, i still haven't forgot about you wanting me to measure the ground clearance of the oil pan. it's going to be awhile before there is enough weight on the car (and springs settling?) to get any meaningful measurement.

[TexasEd 188]

she's back on her feet!

[Fordrevhead 29]

All minor stuff! thanks for sharing. btw, the tailight panel problem is common. Along with the filler neck, have you checked the tailight fit? :cursing:

 

Thanks about the oil pan, I had actually forgotten!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

All minor stuff! thanks for sharing. btw, the tailight panel problem is common. Along with the filler neck, have you checked the tailight fit? :cursing:

 

Thanks about the oil pan, I had actually forgotten!

 

i did check the tail lights a few months ago. the repop gasket is really thick. maybe because they are fresh. i also had to trim the repop tail light buckets.

 

so what is the true source of problem for the filler neck?

[Fordrevhead 29]

Often have to open the hole in the repro panels... Tight or doesnt fit at all even before paint. True source... Well they may substitute an existing metric stamping die, a warn die or maybe they just measured the diameter of a neck and never accounted for the fact that they are out of round from forming the bend. From my work as an ME i am just guessing. Might be a good time to fab up a custom anti splash back filler neck though?

[rangerdoc 22]

Looking great. I don't know what you mean about the sensitive issue and the paint on the lower rocker :lol:

 

You gotta embrace those conversations...even the ones at the other place! Its all about learning.

[stangme428 33]

just wanted to say again.... great build buckeye ... cant wait to see it completed!:biggrin:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just wanted to say again.... great build buckeye ... cant wait to see it completed!:biggrin:

 

thank you!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

installed the motor and transmission today among a bunch of other items. everything went in and is fitting well thus far (mainly due to mocking things up awhile back)

 

i took someone suggestion on here and jacked the rear end up about 24". We started with the rear most hook on the carb plate, had it hanging over the engine compartment and decided to put the motor back on the stand and readjust the hook to the forward most position on the carb plate.

 

It literally took 15 minutes to lift the motor up and bolt it in. my crew did a great job. not one bump on any metal.

 

it's the first my dad has seen my car in over a year. i had three total helpers. two on the side, me underneath and my dad controlling the cherry picker.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Fordrevhead 29]

Awesome! Must be feelin good! I do all the engine/ trans pulls and installs on cars w/o removable radiator supports like that.

[69boss408 11]

That thing has show winner written all over it.Awesome car

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Great work/progress! Looking forward to it's completion! :yes::yes:

[bnickel 10,004]

i only see three things that look out of place enough to keep that from being the ultimate sleeper engine bay. the fuel, line routing, the distributor and the lack of the pre-heater tube for the air cleaner. and for as bad-ass as i know that engine is gonna be that ain't too bad.

[Chelby-Ann 47]

Outstanding job buckeye.

A day to remember

thanks for sharing

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i only see three things that look out of place enough to keep that from being the ultimate sleeper engine bay. the fuel, line routing, the distributor and the lack of the pre-heater tube for the air cleaner. and for as bad-ass as i know that engine is gonna be that ain't too bad.

 

yep. there are certainly tons of areas to improve on. there is a tradeoff for everything. just about 90% of this car is incorrect in terms of a concours restore.

 

concerning the distributor, i had considered the vacuum advance option on the pro billet for looks and painting the billet housing to look the dull cast aluminum. that's TBD.

 

the pre-heater tube. i have major issues with the snorkel clearance so i don't envision ever making mods to it. the internal flapper is actually welded to hold the position open.

 

of course the fuel line was discussed. that's pretty low on the priority list as of today but is a major sore thumb.

 

on a side note, i have a set of original lift hooks that have been refinished for a 351w. i tried to put them on, but it was just looking stupid with the headers...

 

the driveshaft is ordered, so that should be here in about 2 weeks.

 

 

thanks to all for the support.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Fordrevhead. I'm currently measuring 7.25" clearance from the oil pan to the floor. The bellhousing i'm using measures 6.375" from the bottom to the floor.

 

Still more weight to add to the car though.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the console is temporary. i need to make some harnesses that route from the connectors at the end of the console to the firewall connector and other wiring. i also need to make the harness that connects the ignition box to the firewall connector.

 

the blochy look on the lower dash is from my hands...

 

 

[ak70stang 11]

Very cool

[Junior2561 10]

wow, this project is really on the move now!

[bnickel 10,004]

yep. there are certainly tons of areas to improve on. there is a tradeoff for everything. just about 90% of this car is incorrect in terms of a concours restore.

 

concerning the distributor, i had considered the vacuum advance option on the pro billet for looks and painting the billet housing to look the dull cast aluminum. that's TBD.

 

the pre-heater tube. i have major issues with the snorkel clearance so i don't envision ever making mods to it. the internal flapper is actually welded to hold the position open.

 

of course the fuel line was discussed. that's pretty low on the priority list as of today but is a major sore thumb.

 

on a side note, i have a set of original lift hooks that have been refinished for a 351w. i tried to put them on, but it was just looking stupid with the headers...

 

the driveshaft is ordered, so that should be here in about 2 weeks.

 

 

thanks to all for the support.

 

 

just so you know, I wasn't trying to diminish your accomplishments in anyway. It is still a very stock looking engine compartment actually.

 

as far as the dizzy goes it's not really that big of a deal especially once the engine bay is full of wiring and hoses, etc. if the car had ac that would actually hide the dizzy to the point of being almost a non-issue anyway and even without it it can still be toned down quite a bit. the biggest problem in my eyes, if you're going for a really stock sleeper looking bay, is the cap itself. the old style MSD cap with clips like the stock ford cap would be the best solution and IIRC you can still get the parts to convert it from MSD, the housing itself with a little blasting and/or some cast blast paint would bring the look more in line with stock and you could always buy vacuum advance unit and disable it and just have it screwed to the dizzy base to make it even more correct lokoing.

 

 

as far as the snorkel tube goes, there are aftermarket kits that you can either weld or use hose clamps to attach the pre-heater hose to the headers and use a cloth-type hose up to the snorkel. I have one myself that I may use on the cougar if I decide to use headers and to be honest the look of it kind of approximates that of a 70 boss 302 pre-heater hose setup which, while not exactly 100% correct for a 69 351w would be pretty darn close. edelbrock has one for about $60 that would be so damn close looking to a factory style kit it's almost incredible

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-65951/?rtype=10

 

and summit has other kits for less money as well

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Exhaust/Part-Type/Hot-Air-Kits-and-Components/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

 

 

and i do remember, now, that we did discuss the fuel line already.....

 

 

just trying to help a brother out. :biggrin: plus, i just really dig those sleeper engine bays...:wheelchair:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just so you know, I wasn't trying to diminish your accomplishments in anyway.

 

just trying to help a brother out. :biggrin: plus, i just really dig those sleeper engine bays...:wheelchair:

 

no worries. i didn't take it personal. the distributor and fuel line are the most noticeable to me as well. it helps to know what others see.

[69RavenConv 286]

Car looks great, Buckeye. Too pretty to take outside. If I recall, yours is a Dearborn car, right? So, is that slop gray for the bumper supports? And the hood latch support?