69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Do you plan to paint this week?

 

nope. i'll have at least a week of cleaning and prep. then wait for a good day.

Edited June 17, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[ak70stang 11]

Looks amazing. Want to paint my car next? Lol

[ak70stang 11]

Looks amazing. Want to paint my car next? Lol

[stangme428 33]

the paint prep is looking great!!! that motor sounds like it went way past 6K rpm.......just sayin... i think your gonna have a nice hi rev motor ......:punk:

[stangme428 33]

the paint prep is looking great!!! that motor sounds like it went way past 6K rpm.......just sayin... i think your gonna have a nice hi rev motor ......:punk:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Looks amazing. Want to paint my car next? Lol

 

heck no! it's turning the rest of my hair gray and this isn't even the first car i've painted...

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

that motor sounds like it went way past 6K rpm.......just sayin... i think your gonna have a nice hi rev motor ......:punk:

 

were you the one who used to spin a 289 pretty high in rpm?

 

it's definitely not a hi rev motor. the heads are way to small to support high rpm big cubic inches. i did ask the shop how high i could rev it before i should have a concern and he said 7k without issue. he said at some point the lifters would pump up and power will die anyways.

 

when i average the power over a 2000 rpm span (and interpolating the power drop after 6400), it appears that there really is no benefit to spinning it much more than 62-6400.

[stangme428 33]

nope ... it wasnt me... i bet 7K will sound amazing, but im with you no reason to stress things out when nothing is accomplished beyond 62-6400. looking forward to you getting it on the road!!

 

were you the one who used to spin a 289 pretty high in rpm?

 

it's definitely not a hi rev motor. the heads are way to small to support high rpm big cubic inches. i did ask the shop how high i could rev it before i should have a concern and he said 7k without issue. he said at some point the lifters would pump up and power will die anyways.

 

when i average the power over a 2000 rpm span (and interpolating the power drop after 6400), it appears that there really is no benefit to spinning it much more than 62-6400.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i made an attempt to dial in the lakewood bellhousing and spacer plate. you may recall i had drilled and countersunk holes in the spacer plate to affix the spacer permanately to the bell using the extra bellhousing holes.

 

it had an offset of .007". i ordered some .007" offset dowels from RobbMC. the best i could do was .003" offset.

 

i first checked to make sure the splines weren't interfering with the roller pilot bearing.

 

 

result after checking the initial runout. i had rotated it twice to find the offset.

 

 

after using the .007" offset dowels. i just couldn't get it to zero. .003" was the best i could get.

 

 

 

 

 

i also checked the face. it ranged from -.001" and -.005". i don't know if there is a spec for this or not?

 

 

[ruger1 10]

Alright, Buckeye, I give up! The level of excellence you have brought here to this forum is amazing, the ultimate perfectionist. Thanks again for all your hard work.

[buening 63]

I'm not aware of any spec for the face of the bell. Good job on indexing that Lakewood. That brand is one of those that almost always need offset dowels.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

now have the wheels and tires. finding a shop to balance them proved to be a major chore.

 

seems that many of the complaints about these wheels are probably due to the method of balancing. i probably called about 20 shops in the area and almost all of them told me i was nuts.

 

seems strange given the number of lug centric rims being built.

 

i found some references to the Hunter Engineering balancer that uses the lugs. they have an equipment locator.

 

http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm

 

of course the two kids at the shop had never used the above balancer so i had to wait for the manager to operate the road force balancer the next day. when i picked them up, the kids were able to show me how it mounted to the rims.

 

he said they balanced pretty well, so hopefully that does the job correctly.

 

i went with 215/65R15 on the front and 245/60R15 for the rears.

 

Rims are from Specialty Wheel.

 

front rims are 15X7 with the standard 4.25" backspace.

 

rear rims are 15X8 with a non-standard 5.00" backspace.

 

I don't think they really charged any more for the non-standard backspace. the order was quick. it took a little over a week from order to when they were at my door.

 

Specialty claims there tolerances are half of Wheel Vintiques.

 

the chrome work looks thin too me, but it seems most chrome is these days.

 

i'm a little concerned about clearance in the back. i won't know until the car is reassembled.

 

some interesting points (to me anyways) about the tires.

 

The 215/65R15 diameter measures 25.675". It was spec'd at 26.1".

 

The 245/60R15 diameter measures 26.0". It was spec'd at 26.6".

 

It seems the tires diameter are about ~0.5" smaller than spec.

Unmounted, i measured the natural bead width to b 6" and 7" for the tires.

 

Also, the section width grew quite a bit once mounted (3/8" and 5/8") for the two tires.

 

the 215 is on the left, 245 on the right.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Alright, Buckeye, I give up! The level of excellence you have brought here to this forum is amazing, the ultimate perfectionist. Thanks again for all your hard work.

 

this car is miles from perfect... the downside of doing your own work is you know every flaw and issue.

Edited June 18, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I'm not aware of any spec for the face of the bell. Good job on indexing that Lakewood. That brand is one of those that almost always need offset dowels.

 

i've read the same. however, with the spacer, there was going to be some added error.

 

my friend had his transmission rebuilt and the pilot had eaten away at the input shaft on his 70 challenger. i told him to check his runout. he told me it had all factory parts and it shouldn't need it. turns out he needed the .021" offset dowels. seems that factory (maybe he just had bad luck) isn't so good.

 

basically what i'm saying is, even with a bell like quicktime that claims it won't need offset, you should probably still check it.

 

these measurement are pretty sensitive. .005" seem ridiculously tight to me.

 

my friends challenger has a requirement of .006" for the face. i'm wondering if the error on mine was why the .007" dowel didn't take it closer to zero.

[buening 63]

Oh yeah, even though Quicktime states runout doesn't need checked I checked mine. It was within spec and didn't need dowels though. Hell i think it was within 0.001 on my bellhousing. Another thing that will throw things off is if you have the mains line-bored.

 

Rims look nice! Chrome does pretty much suck any more. Unless you pay (high $$$ for good) for a quality rechrome we can pretty much expect anything aftermarket to be thin.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Oh yeah, even though Quicktime states runout doesn't need checked I checked mine. It was within spec and didn't need dowels though. Hell i think it was within 0.001 on my bellhousing. Another thing that will throw things off is if you have the mains line-bored.

 

.001". that's incredible. to think the mains and two alignment dowels from ford were machined to less than .001" is unthinkable to me. nice.

[Fordrevhead 29]

Tires are probably rated at hot diameter at highway speed. Different manufacturers will list different diameters for the same size tires as well. Lookin good

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

motor is painted.

 

i spent friday evening and saturday morning cleaning.

 

i used purple power cleaner/degreaser with a bristle brush to scrub everything and remove the assembly lubes from the fasteners.

 

i rinsed it using hot water plumbed from the hot water tank. i immediately wiped it dry with a towel. i then used red scotch brite hand pads and went over everything that was going to get paint.

 

i then put some DX330 wax and grease remover in the paint gun and sprayed it on the engine pretty heavy, letting any dirt and oil drip off. i wiped it down with clean clothes. i went thru the process of spraying the dx330 and wiping it down three times.

 

my hands and fingers hurt...

 

 

 

sprayed two coats of reduced black epoxy

 

 

 

sprayed two coats of the 13358 ford corporate blue urethane w/ about 10% flattener.

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Tires are probably rated at hot diameter at highway speed. Different manufacturers will list different diameters for the same size tires as well. Lookin good

 

that makes sense to me. thanks.

[Junior2561 10]

Engine and wheels look great.

[rangerdoc 22]

I drool every time I see pictures of your work.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

put a number of items on the engine after paint.

 

there are still a number of issues to work out.

 

the alternator is currently being built.

 

it was never a plan to run the motorsport valve covers. i just had them so the machine shop didn't have to deal with any clearance issues. turns out they are just fine.

 

it's nice to finally see the parts that were detailed finally get assembled.

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Looks awesome!! :yes::yes:

[69SlowResto 19]

looks killer

[Rcodenewf 44]

That's one fine lookin' engine Buckeye!!