69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

do my colors look remotely correct? i can't tell.

 

i just picked up gloss red, white and blue.

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

do my colors look remotely correct? i can't tell.

 

i just picked up gloss red, white and blue.

 

Looks good to me! :thumbup:

[1967Stang 10]

Buckeye...your emblems look great ! I am courious if you thought about a clear coat overtop? I was thinking about how well they will stand up against the elements? I have started working on my quarter window hardware (channels, regulator, etc.)...stripped them down to bare metal, treated with some eastwood rust converter then aluminum base coat, and then a coat of clear..I know the quarter window hardware wont been seen but I dont want to go down the road of rust repair again on the same parts. Thoughts ?

Keep up the good work !

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I am courious if you thought about a clear coat overtop? I was thinking about how well they will stand up against the elements?

 

i had no thoughts of clearcoating the emblems. i'm already concerned about adhesion on the insets. i would be more concerned about adhesion on the tall surfaces of a polished chromed part. my car is in a climate controlled insulated garage, so i don't expect any corrosion on an interior part like those emblems.

 

I have started working on my quarter window hardware (channels, regulator, etc.)...stripped them down to bare metal, treated with some eastwood rust converter then aluminum base coat, and then a coat of clear..I know the quarter window hardware wont been seen but I dont want to go down the road of rust repair again on the same parts. Thoughts ?

 

i was just looking at my box of parts that fit in the doors for the windows this weekend. i'm not sure what i'll do to them. maybe get some of the parts zinc plated? paint?

[rangerdoc 22]

I'm continually amazed at the attention to detail you're putting into your car. It will certainly stand apart from the crowd when complete.

[Fordrevhead 29]

here's a pic of one... the factory colors are like an old school metallic, weird.

 

http://www.lamustang.com/SQLCart/Images/Large/102066.jpg

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

interesting. i never noticed. it almost looks translucent. what colors did you use on your emblem? did you find a mix that would look more original?

 

now that i know, i'm going to be looking at all emblems, looking for the flaws!

[69RavenConv 286]

I did the same thing you did, Buckeye, I used Testor's paint and then concluded it wasn't quite right. My dad had some paints when I was a kid (40 years ago) that he used to mount fish (of all things) that I suspect would be perfect. I think he got it from his workplace where they printed on mylar, cellophane, foil, things like that. It had that translucent quality, I wish I could find something like it...

[69RavenConv 286]

I did the same thing you did, Buckeye, I used Testor's paint and then concluded it wasn't quite right. My dad had some paints when I was a kid (40 years ago) that he used to mount fish (of all things) that I suspect would be perfect. I think he got it from his workplace where they printed on mylar, cellophane, foil, things like that. It had that translucent quality, I wish I could find something like it...

[Fordrevhead 29]

Well, this was on my 65 I did it for and it was in like 1988. Also, it is my recollection that the earlier tri-colored emblems were even more translucent. I used a semi-transparent red and a blue candy model car paint.

 

I have never seen actual paint codes for this anywhere like you do for like hood black out, etc.

 

Some people have used interior dies, which could possibly be correct and makes some sense since those have a different body (which could account for the translucent effect) and weren't intended to be applied to metals (although I think adhesion would be fine).

[Fordrevhead 29]

Well, this was on my 65 I did it for and it was in like 1988. Also, it is my recollection that the earlier tri-colored emblems were even more translucent. I used a semi-transparent red and a blue candy model car paint.

 

I have never seen actual paint codes for this anywhere like you do for like hood black out, etc.

 

Some people have used interior dies, which could possibly be correct and makes some sense since those have a different body (which could account for the translucent effect) and weren't intended to be applied to metals (although I think adhesion would be fine).

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i've been working on the console.

 

the cigarette lighter on the bezel was in pretty pad shape, so i got a repopped console glove box that has the new bezel. it's a nice piece (except the rivut, that you can't really see).

 

i wanted to add four gauges to the car but couldn't decide where to put two of them that wouldn't look tacky. so i decided to put two of them inside the console glove box (volts and fuel pressure).

 

so i used the side of the old glove box to create a divider in the new box. i then cut a piece of plastic for the top. i used some two part 3M seam sealer to attach it to the new box after some sanding.

 

the good thing is the new console box didn't come with any flocking.

 

i got a kit from Lee Valley Tools to flock the modified box. It was very easy to do. it came with black adhesive, the black flocking material and a tool to apply it.

 

i decided to spray the adhesive out of my 1.8 tip primer gun after thinning it slightly with mineral spirit's. i wasn't sure if the adhesive application if brushed on would show up in the flocking. in any case it took about 2 seconds to spray and was a nice even coat.

 

it turned out really nice and was one of the easiest things i've done.

 

cut up the old box to use as the divider. used a hole saw for the two gauge holes.

 

black adhesive. i probably added 10% mineral spirits so it would spray out of the gun. i may not have needed to add the thinner.

 

 

flocking material applied. i could see the adhesive soak it up to a point there was extra material.

 

using a larger hole saw i cut two holes so the gauges could be installed.

 

final look.

[69boss408 11]

That looks great ,you always have great ideas and a beautiful car should be a show winner when done.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finished up the console. i still need to add the wiring.

 

the main console, insert, gauge pod and lid were all scuffed with red scotch brite and painted using SEM Landau black. i has just a little gloss.

 

 

 

the repro rear ash tray sucked. so i put the bezel on the polisher. the ash tray was media blasted, sprayed with one coat reduced black epoxy then topcoated with two medium coats of the dark charcoal metallic (the original was not black).

 

the front gauges are water temp and oil pressure. the gauges have outputs that can be used to control different hardware. i'm using the oil pressure gauge to turn off the ignition box due to low oil pressure. all of the gauges when lower than the trip point will have the ability to trigger a light in the dash. the lesser important gauges (volts and fuel pressure are mounted in the console glove box.

 

 

i mounted two DPDT switches (with lights) in the face of the console glove box where you really can't see them. one controls the function of the rim blow steering wheel (horn or line lock) and the other switch enables the two step limiter (when line lock activated). they both have lights that will turn on when activated.

 

[ak70stang 11]

I have never seen anyone do their console up like yours but I like it. Wishing I had one in mine.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

this will be the last update for awhile. i finished up the wiring on the console and left it with three connectors at the front.

 

 

 

i'm back to working on the body now that the temps have come back up. updates will be slim since it's pretty boring.

 

i finished up painting the interior rear quarter panels. i scrubbed them with red scotch brite pads, cleaned and sprayed using the same method as the other interior items (one coat reduced black DP epoxy followed by two wet coats of the 32586 charcoal metallic).

 

i mentioned a lack of gloss and i noticed that with an application of an armor all a little sheen does come out. the panel also gets a little darker.

 

 

 

the panels had some defects. this particular spot had a hole that was almost thru the fiberglass. i used some of the POR epoxy putty and pushe some into the location. you can use water to help smooth it out. i then sanded it lightly.

 

 

panels were scuffed

 

after paint.

 

 

here is a comparison of the quarter and the lower steering column cover. they are both using the same method at the same time. however the steering column cover had some armor all applied then wiped off.

 

 

the engine shop is slowly working on the motor. they are loaded down as it's busy with the racing season starting, so of course mine is a little on the back burner. they did promise to have it running in the next few weeks.

 

they had to weld the intake manifold on the top side on both sides at the water jacket. he said it had something to do with the water jacket shape on the iron TFS heads, something he's had to do before.

 

Edited April 10, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[ak70stang 11]

I really like how your interior panels came out. I will be working on mine here soon so this really helps. Glad you are a few steps ahead of me, makes it easy to follow. :thumbup:

[Fordrevhead 29]

they had to weld the intake manifold on the top side on both sides at the water jacket. he said it had something to do with the water jacket shape on the iron TFS heads, something he's had to do before.

 

hmmm, sounds like they have experience. I can see a problem happening there with mixed components. I would still watch for intake leaks. Hopefully they replaned the intake surfaces flat after welding. Aluminum dissipates heat well, but still.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i sure hope the intake won't leak. that's one reason i want the shop to run the motor. i'm hoping for good reliability out of the engine as i really don't want to have to periodically tear into it and scratch anything.

Edited April 10, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finally some color.

 

i picked up the paint. i wanted to verify my process of final sanding along with the application of the base and clear. i didn't want any surprises like scratches showing up, solvent pop or any other issues. I thought the stone deflector would be the best piece.

 

i've set things up so that i just sand out the final coat of K36 primer using 400.

 

 

I'm using PPG DBC mixed to the code 71528 for the candyapple red basecoat.

 

 

sprayed 3 coats of base. 2 coats would have been adequate.

 

 

for the clear i'm using PPG's Value Pro P390 urethane clear. i sprayed 3 coats.

 

 

[stangme428 33]

looking good!!:thumbup1:

[69SlowResto 19]

Nice Job

[Legion 10]

Very nice!

[ak70stang 11]

Awsome the moment we have been waiting for!!

What gun are you using?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

What gun are you using?

 

iwata LPH400-LV w/1.4