69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finally finished. i added a 1/4" spacer under the carb to bring everything back up a bit. i removed a little ribbing in the midplate that you probably can't see or notice. also made a side bracket that bolts to the intake.

 

the snorkel is not a true 351W shaker snorkel. it's technically for a 351W non-shaker. i had to relocate the holes and trim a little on the flange. i also had to find an elbow to fit the base.

 

i just need to clean it up and get the right fasteners for it.

 

 

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finally finished. i added a 1/4" spacer under the carb to bring everything back up a bit. i removed a little ribbing in the midplate that you probably can't see or notice. also made a side bracket that bolts to the intake.

 

the snorkel is not a true 351W shaker snorkel. it's technically for a 351W non-shaker. i had to relocate the holes and trim a little on the flange. i also had to find an elbow to fit the base.

 

i just need to clean it up and get the right fasteners for it.

 

 

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finally finished. i added a 1/4" spacer under the carb to bring everything back up a bit. i removed a little ribbing in the midplate that you probably can't see or notice. also made a side bracket that bolts to the intake.

 

the snorkel is not a true 351W shaker snorkel. it's technically for a 351W non-shaker. i had to relocate the holes and trim a little on the flange. i also had to find an elbow to fit the base.

 

i just need to clean it up and get the right fasteners for it.

 

 

 

 

[Stanger69 16]

Man, that looks hot. I would love to be able to see that in person. Awesome

[Stanger69 16]

Man, that looks hot. I would love to be able to see that in person. Awesome

[Stanger69 16]

Man, that looks hot. I would love to be able to see that in person. Awesome

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up.

 

i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing.

 

just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay!

 

 

 

when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

 

Edited March 14, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up.

 

i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing.

 

just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay!

 

 

 

when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

 

Edited March 14, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just an idea for anyone wanting to build a quick cart for your shell. i built this last year, but stole two of the box tubes to make the subframe connectors. so i tacked up two more piece of box tube. it works relatively well. it only takes about 30 minutes or so to build up.

 

i don't like the air filled tires though. they just don't want to swivel well on the ground. and of course you can't mock up the motor or driveline on this thing.

 

just moving the car to a different location, keeps the stale feeling at bay!

 

 

 

when i pulled the motor back out, i snapped a picture of the cylinder. TFS high port heads have the intake valve moved towards the center of the cylinder. this is one reason why this head is better than many. less intake valve shrouding. it may also be a reason why Fox Lake further worked the combustion chamber shape and opened up the exhaust port a bit to balance out the flow. my block has never been bored, so this is the shrouding on a 4" bore.

 

Edited March 14, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[unfrozen1969 11]

Again, all I can say is wow. I have read your complete thread and have learned a ton. The photos have been really helpful...thanks so much.

 

Bill from Canada

[unfrozen1969 11]

Again, all I can say is wow. I have read your complete thread and have learned a ton. The photos have been really helpful...thanks so much.

 

Bill from Canada

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i have been torn on how to refinish natural steel parts. should i leave them natural and periodically clean/coat with cosmoline/oil versusor should i paint. with paint my concerns are scratching during reassembly and of course the paint just looking awful.

 

so i did some research on some various forums and decided to test some of the recommendations.

 

the pictures are of the same panel, just different lighting. I have left off Eastwood's detail gray since i would have had to order it and the fact it had many poor reviews (and of course positive reviews since it is so heavily marketed).

 

1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519)

1a. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

2. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177)

2a. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

3. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612)

3a. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054)

4a. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

5. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650)

5a. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

6. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201)

6a. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

7. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted

8. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

9. Natural Steel

 

Any recommendations or Feedback?

 

I personally think they all come up way short. I will probably go with #4 and mix in #4a and #1 for some diversity.

 

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i have been torn on how to refinish natural steel parts. should i leave them natural and periodically clean/coat with cosmoline/oil versusor should i paint. with paint my concerns are scratching during reassembly and of course the paint just looking awful.

 

so i did some research on some various forums and decided to test some of the recommendations.

 

the pictures are of the same panel, just different lighting. I have left off Eastwood's detail gray since i would have had to order it and the fact it had many poor reviews (and of course positive reviews since it is so heavily marketed).

 

1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519)

1a. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

2. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177)

2a. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

3. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612)

3a. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054)

4a. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

5. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650)

5a. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

6. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201)

6a. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

7. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted

8. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)

9. Natural Steel

 

Any recommendations or Feedback?

 

I personally think they all come up way short. I will probably go with #4 and mix in #4a and #1 for some diversity.

 

 

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i've been media blasting a bunch of parts over the last week. i put the paint to work. i've been coating all the parts with two coats of epoxy then following with the topcoat.

 

i made these roller spring perch's. they took me most of a saturday to build. the hardest part was getting the shaft out from the impregnated rubber. the shells/shaft were of course media blasted, epoxied, and sprayed to replicate the steel. i used a different paint on the shaft.

 

 

because i dropped the motor 1/2" (also griffin radiator) there was some clearance issues with the fan shroud. i trimmed a little over 1/4" inch off the tip and repeated the radius. i had to use paint stripper to get the coating off. then off course followed that up by media blasting, epoxy coating and the semi gloss black.

 

for black i have been using the Shop Line brand of Acrylic Urethane. i mix in a predetermined amount of flattener to give the level of flatness i'm looking for. dipped parts get a little less flattener to give a little more sheen. i'm trying to get all "semi gloss" parts a slightly different look.

if anyone is interested in part numbers or the ratio of flattener, let me know.

 

here is the emergency brake bracket. same deal in the prep. i replicated where the original pieces had been dipped. polished out the stainless trim.

Edited March 30, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[Mace 10]

You are anal, my friend.

 

I like it!

[maxum96 32]

 

 

I'm getting ready to redo my parking brake mechanism. How did you clean your's? Media blasting? Did you dissemble it? I notice your's is missing the return spring too. What are you planning to use for a spring?

 

Thanks

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

maxum,

 

i have no idea of a spring on the mechanism. where does it connect? do you have a picture for reference?

 

i didn't dissassemble any more than you see. i used aluminum oxide in the cabinet to clean, then wiped it down with wax/grease remover.

[maxum96 32]

I can't really find a good picture of what I'm talking about. Look at the first picture in this ebay ad,

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380139835781&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=aa51f44a1200a02684219e01ff9bb416&rvr_id=&ua=WVF%3F&itemid=380139835781

 

See the long coil spring (about 2" long) on the short horizontal rod near the front of the assembly that's connected to the release mechanism? That's the spring I'm talking about.

[ccobra70 10]

attention to detail, it will pay off later (I like it) just my opinon but on like those roller perches I think I would powder coat them, in fact if its possible I would powder coat most things I know you cant do everthing especially interior stuff but under hood and on chassis if it can be taken apart to be done I would, that way you should be good for a long time. on the paint I always like the cast coat alum. I have some in the garage I use time to time, the powder coat colors I like are called chrome which is a lighter silver or silver sparkle they both look good . good luck and your project looks amazing Ill see it in a feature mag one day!!

[maxum96 32]

Can't powder coat the roller perches. Powder coat has to be baked and the oven would ruin the bearings. Unless you didn't powder coat the areas the bearing go and installed the bearings after powder coat.

[ccobra70 10]

your right, like I said if it can be taken apart I would, most people would have not powder coated brake calipers b/c of the rubber seals in them, most you see are painted ,but I had mine disassembled and powder coated which cost about 360 to have done but the attention is in the detail, and most people would not notice but I look for things like that.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I can't really find a good picture of what I'm talking about. Look at the first picture in this ebay ad,

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380139835781&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=aa51f44a1200a02684219e01ff9bb416&rvr_id=&ua=WVF%3F&itemid=380139835781

 

See the long coil spring (about 2" long) on the short horizontal rod near the front of the assembly that's connected to the release mechanism? That's the spring I'm talking about.

 

interesting. did they all come with this spring? it seems like it should be there. it must slide in thru the hole. does some sort of clip hold it in? anyone have a good picture with this spring?

 

just for reference, here was my original showing where the black was located:

[stangme428 33]

- quick question while you all are in this area - can you just replace the pull handle? mine worked fine until someone thought it was the parking brake and tried to engage it with their foot.... then the handle broke off...:scared:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

it's only held on by the two metal tabs that are folded down.

 

could you weld it to fix it? it seems like it would be difficult to just find that one piece for sale somewhere.

Edited April 3, 2010 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the following picture compares Plasti-Kote 224 engine enamel to "Ford Blue" 13358. I read in several places that the 224 is a good match to the original.

Of course each can will probably be different.

 

The plasti-kote is on the left side. You may not be able to tell, but the plasti-kote is slightly darker blue or maybe a little more purple.

 

i read that many people use DAR 13358. I'm not sure why when there are better technologies available. I had the shop mix the 13358 paint code for a single stage acrylic urethane. I added about 12% flattener to the mix.

 

 

i painted up the pieces of the shaker. i still need to mask off the top so i can spray some argent. this picture shows the difference in the midplate to the top and spacer. i probably added about 2-3% flattener on the midplate and 30% on the spacer and top.

 

if you are familiar with shakers, you can probably spot one of the forms and ribs that i had to remove.