69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted October 7, 2017 7 hours ago, Crazyhorse said: If you use Firefox to browse, this add on fixes photobuckey's extortion scheme... https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/?src=api Thanks! Great add-on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 8, 2017 donor roof is on the car now. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 11, 2017 Stellar work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 11, 2017 7 hours ago, RPM said: Stellar work! i'm assuming you're referring to the cage, it was built by Jim Unger located in Dayton Ohio. He was very cooperative during that effort. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 12, 2017 Oh the cage is outstanding also, but I'm impressed with all of it. Pretty welds too on the A or windshield pillar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 12, 2017 7 hours ago, RPM said: Oh the cage is outstanding also, but I'm impressed with all of it. Pretty welds too on the A or windshield pillar. thank you. tig is so nice, with the ability to control the amount of material added, fusing, no spatter, etc. i've come to the point where i just avoid using the mig 90% of the time. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted February 12, 2018 have all the brake lines and fuel lines/brackets finished up. only need a few more parts for the engine before i can lug it to the machine shop. likely later this year. cylinder head/manifold cam were finished up over Christmas. 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 27, 2018 strange. the old photobucket images are now shown, but the newer postimage photos aren't. did Microsoft edge make a change or did photobucket change something? ...anyways, a couple pics of the current stage of the falcon. 2 RPM and Grabber70Mach reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Klutch 17 Report post Posted May 27, 2018 I can see everything with the exception of the pictures from February. I'm using Chrome. Wonder what's going on? Maybe I can resurrect my build thread on another forum. I was so disgusted with the Photobucket Block, I simply stopped updating it. The Falcon is looking good. Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing it in fresh paint. 2 RPM and SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SWPruett 83 Report post Posted May 28, 2018 Looks great! Did you wet-blast the surfaces? Ground looks wet under the body. Just curious! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 28, 2018 18 minutes ago, SWPruett said: Looks great! Did you wet-blast the surfaces? Ground looks wet under the body. Just curious! Black diamond abrasive media collected on a tarp. I recycle it a few times, so I don't have a black beach in my driveway. It lightens up with use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossed 10 Report post Posted July 29, 2018 What an awesome build BuckeyeDemon. Any updates to share ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 29, 2018 I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings. Plan to take it to shop in November for machining. ….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage.... 3 MAC390, Grabber70Mach and mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viperpete 36 Report post Posted July 30, 2018 Just read through your entire build... dude... you are tenacious and your skill is amazing. I particularly like how you welded 1/8" metal rod to the doors or fenders to determine you own gaps. I LOVE THAT! I want tight gaps too. I also want to build a make shift paint booth in my garage as well. Bravo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 31, 2018 Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 22, 2018 Following is a Table of Contents for the Mach portion of this build BuckeyeDemons Build Table of Contents 3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28 alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17 angle grinder, pg7 backspace, pg41 backup LED, pg31 balancing tires, pg15, 41 bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15 blocking, pg5 brake lines and flaring, pg22 buffing trim, pg28 buffing, pg37 calendar cover picture, pg51 caliper kit, CSRP, pg7 CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47 cam specs, pg6, 16 cam, pg2 car dolly, pg5 car show, pg44 carpet, pg25 cart, car, pg3, 5 cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10 clock cluster, pg34 clock, quartz, pg30 clutch, pg47 compressor size, pg 37 console/gauges, pg12 cowl, pg35 Dan & Dad, pg44 dash, pg11 deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13 DFLP and 32586, pg30 door weights, loaded, pg5 drag tuning, pg45 dragstrip, pg45 drive line angles, pg1, 31 driveshaft loop, pg25 driveshaft, pg21 Dynaliner, pg9 Dynamat Extreme, pg9 Dynamat usage, pg 36 dyno testing, pg6 dyno, pg14 emblems, pg12 engine assembly pics, pg9 engine costs, pg7 engine crossmember, pg1 engine final, pg14 engine specs, pg6 engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12 engine wire harness, pg17 engine, 1st run, pg21 engine, 418, pg8 engine, pg7 engine/trans assembly, pg16 engine/trans install, pg20 engine/trans, how to install, pg16 epoxy primer, pg39 Evapo-Rust, pg9 exhaust pics, 3”, pg30 exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33 fan blade, pg1 fastener kits, pg44 filler neck fit, pg20 fire extinguisher positions, pg43 first car, pg10 flashers, pg30 flocking, pg12 floor support crossmember, pg8 flywheel/clutch, pg46 fold down seat, pg28 fold down seat, pg29, 32 FPA header problems, pg24 front fender extensions, pg5 fuel filler mod, pg 21 fuel filter, pg9 fuel gauge sender, pg9 fuel line mod, pg25 fuel line, pg9, 17 fuel system update, pg34 fuse terminals, pg30 gauge light tuning, pg 31 glass install, pg31 glass, pg26, 28 gotchas, pg20 guide coat, pg5, 7 gun bluing, pg6 header finish, pg5 headers, pg1 headlight/fender extensions, pg33 headliner, pg24 heads, pg6 heater box repair/paint, pg10 heater control bezel repair, pg11 height, pg43 hood paint wax test, pg38 hood trim, pg41-43 instrument regulator, pg22 Instrument Specialties, pg29 insulation, back area, pg26 insulation, pg25 interior quarter panels, pg12, 38 leaf spring addition, pg 46 leaf spring perches, pg 33 LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32 license plates, pg24 line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22 lug centric rims, pg15 Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23 Media blasted, car, pg1 milling intake manifold, pg13 mono-leaf springs, pg47 motor mount, pg47 mufflers, pg6 Mustang emblems, pg11 oil pan clearance, pg20 oil pan install, pg23 oil pan mod, pg23 overflow can, pg27, 28 paint booth filter, pg17 paint booth ventilation, pg13 paint booth venting, pg37 paint booth, pg5 paint colors, misc. parts, pg21 Paint Defender, pg45 paint guns, pg37 paint stripper, pg9 paint, A-pillar trim, pg25 paint, A-pillars, pg25 paint, anti-sway bar, pg6 paint, battery tray, pg6 paint, body mount locations, pg8 paint, body primer, pg5 paint, body, pg17, 18 paint, calipers, pg7 paint, Caltrac bars, pg6 paint, coil springs, pg6 paint, color test, pg3 paint, console, pg12 paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11 paint, dash parts, pg9 paint, dash, pg10, 30 paint, doors/hood, pg14 paint, driveshaft, pg23 paint, EM brake, pg3 paint, engine and parts, pg10 paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19 paint, engine enamel, pg3 paint, engine, pg6, 15 paint, fan blade, pg3 paint, fiberglass panels, pg17 paint, fold down seat, pg29 paint, hood, MTF, pg41 paint, hood, pg34, 38 paint, jack, pg17 paint, leaf springs, pg6 paint, lower control arms, pg8 paint, misc. small parts, pg8 paint, outer dash trim, pg21 paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5 paint, pinchweld, pg19 paint, radiator, pg8 paint, rear end, pg4, 21 paint, scattershield, pg7 paint, seat frame, pg17 paint, seat tracks, pg11 paint, shaker ribs, pg4 paint, shaker, pg3, 4 paint, spring perches, pg3 paint, spring stripes, pg7 paint, steering box, pg11 paint, steering column lower cover, pg21 paint, steering column wire cover, pg21 paint, steering column, pg10 paint, steering wheel trim, pg11 paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12 paint, strut rods, pg10 paint, trunk, pg13 paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35 paint, upper control arms, pg6 paint, wiper motor, pg9 panel gaps, pg1, 4 Parkerizing, pg4 phenolic spacer test, pg35 phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9 phosphate finish, pg4, 5 pressure plate, pg16 primer, K36, pg7 primer/blocking final, pg14 Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25 radio conversion, pg44 rear end, pg4 rear gears, pg2 rear lights, pg24 rear springs, pg6 red oxide, pg8 remetalized clock cluster, pg 29 residual valve, pg22 Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28 Rimblow/line lock, pg11 Rimblow Buddy, pg11 rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38 rust remover, chemical, pg9 sail panels, pg26 sealer, inside cabin, pg9 seam sealer, pg35 seat belts, pg36 seat fabric, pg13 seats, pg34, 35 shaker fit, pg38 shaker trim fit, pg44 shaker, pg2, 3 sheetmetal replacement, pg1 sheetmetal thickness, pg37 shock extensions, pg47 shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48 shocks, pg45 side scoop caulk, pg38 sleeper engine bay, pg20 Slide On Application Gel, pg42 sound deadener SF, pg9 sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9 sound deadener, pg26, 35 sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8 sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9 sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25 sound deadening on quarters, pg38 sound test, pg37 space saver spare tire, pg43 spark plug looms, pg49 Spectrum Second Skin, pg13 splash shields, pg26 spray gun, pg12 Ssnake Oyl, pg36 stabilizer bar fitment, pg23 stance, pg26 steering impression, pg40 stripes, pg42, 43 subframe connectors, pg1 suspension install, pg19 tach mount, pg 22 tail light bulbs, pg24, 30 TFS hi port heads, pg3 TIG, pg36, 37 timing mod, pg24 tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7 trailer tie downs, pg39 trap door, pg28 trunk catch, pg23 trunk finished, pg25 trunk, pg32 upper control arms, pg6 valve covers, pg6, 17 venting, fuel tank, pg49 video, 1st time on street, pg39 video, drag, pg46 video, drive, pg40 video, driving, pg32 video, in driveway, pg31 video, rear suspension, pg46 water pump, pg9 water shield, pg38 Weatherpak connector, pg23 weight, pg47 wheel/tire combo, pg47 work table, pg37 z-bar, pg1 z-bar rework, pg23 zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7 zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted August 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said: Following is a Table of Contents for the Mach portion of this build holy cow! that looks like a lot of work. even I will find it useful given I often have to go back to find a detail here or there. thank you. I will try to edit the first post and paste it there (if it won't throw off page numbers). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 24, 2018 BD, on page 22 you mention a residual valve but I don't see it in the picture. I've read that some are built into the master cylinder and some are placed in line: These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5 psi. up to 12 psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Was this required because of line lock, and whose line lock system did you use? I'm assuming that line lock prevents flow to the rear brakes, so are they positioned: master, line lock, and residual, then wheel cylinders? I've never seen a system but it sounds like a must-have-fun toy. My paint is still original and the base paint on the hood is by far in the worst shape, because any wax I attempted to use would produce white streaks where it came in contact with the black. On page 38 your wax test on the hood black shows a definite increase in sheen. Then jnetforjt recalls a test where even primer can be made to shine with repeated applications of wax. So I was wondering how your black looks now after some years of waxing? Thanks for your build/instruction manual ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thegizmo 12 Report post Posted August 24, 2018 This is my favorite build thread and I often thought Buckeye should somehow self publish this thread as a book. I'd buy a copy. Especially with all full blown glossy pictures. Awesome indexing as well Mach1! Thanks for that. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 24, 2018 7 minutes ago, thegizmo said: This is my favorite build thread and I often thought Buckeye should somehow self publish this thread as a book. I'd buy a copy. Especially with all full blown glossy pictures. Awesome indexing as well Mach1! Thanks for that. I agree, but alas, the lad has no interest, even though its for the betterment of all mankind :p Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thegizmo 12 Report post Posted August 24, 2018 12 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said: I agree, but alas, the lad has no interest, even though its for the betterment of all mankind :p lol, it would be indeed! Well, I finally became the proud owner of a 69 Mach 1 S Code on May 30th and it will need some TLC so I will be making use of your index for sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted August 25, 2018 10 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said: BD, on page 22 you mention a residual valve but I don't see it in the picture. I've read that some are built into the master cylinder and some are placed in line: These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5 psi. up to 12 psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Was this required because of line lock, and whose line lock system did you use? I'm assuming that line lock prevents flow to the rear brakes, so are they positioned: master, line lock, and residual, then wheel cylinders? I've never seen a system but it sounds like a must-have-fun toy. My paint is still original and the base paint on the hood is by far in the worst shape, because any wax I attempted to use would produce white streaks where it came in contact with the black. On page 38 your wax test on the hood black shows a definite increase in sheen. Then jnetforjt recalls a test where even primer can be made to shine with repeated applications of wax. So I was wondering how your black looks now after some years of waxing? Thanks for your build/instruction manual ;) the line lock is for holding the car stopped while doing burnouts in the box at the dragstrip. it holds the pressure in the front brakes when activated (after pumping the brakes). the residual valve has nothing to do with the line lock. I installed it simply because it's easier to plan and install during the build than have to do rework IF it was needed. the increase in sheen on the hood from the wax wasn't because the paint was getting glossier. it was from the film left by the wax. wipe some oil on something dull and it will give the similar appearance. waxing/polishing is like buffing (with ultra/ultra fine compound and can led to increased gloss. I've just been using the simple spray wax liquid that I wipe on and off quickly. the hood still looks the same. maybe if I applied the mothers carnuba wax repeatedly and let it dry before removing it would look different. I don't know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 25, 2018 Thanks for being patient, my post clearly shows my ignorance. Locking the front brakes negates the need for a third foot- one for all three pedals. So I take it that you press the brakes, flip the line lock switch, and hold the Rim Blow to keep the solenoid engaged. Then you can smoke the tires while in the box. However, I’m intrigued by your statement on pg22 which seems to indicate that you also use line lock to launch the car: “the one switch in the console selects the function of the Rim Blow switch. In one position it will function normally to to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the horns. In the other position it will function to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the line lock and two step rev limiter (if enabled by the other switch in the console). If the console switch is in the position to select the line lock function, an LED will light in the switch itself. Thus during normal driving i don't want to see the LED on. Very small current will pass through the small switches and the horn switch. I have two relays to pass the higher currents.” Could you show me this circuit, and whose two step did you use? I'm guessing there is a clutch switch somewhere in the circuit, and since you are carbureted, it works by retarding the timing. FYI, when making my full car schematic I measured the amperage with both horns sounding at 13.9A, so the Rim Blow switch was clearly intended to flow some current. However, I never had good luck with them. Both of mine spontaneously shorted while sitting in the parking lot and left the horns constantly blaring, so I finally gave up and used the center medallion to press a switch that I located behind it. Using a relay was a good move and should extend the life of the Rim Blow considerably. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 3, 2018 On 8/25/2018 at 8:58 AM, Mach1 Driver said: However, I’m intrigued by your statement on pg22 which seems to indicate that you also use line lock to launch the car: “the one switch in the console selects the function of the Rim Blow switch. In one position it will function normally to to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the horns. In the other position it will function to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the line lock and two step rev limiter (if enabled by the other switch in the console). If the console switch is in the position to select the line lock function, an LED will light in the switch itself. Thus during normal driving i don't want to see the LED on. Very small current will pass through the small switches and the horn switch. I have two relays to pass the higher currents.” Could you show me this circuit, and whose two step did you use? I'm guessing there is a clutch switch somewhere in the circuit, and since you are carbureted, it works by retarding the timing. when I stage the car I have the horn select switch to set to control the line lock/two step when I push the rimblow. When I stage the car, I set the line lock switch to the position, such that when I activate the rim blow and the horn select switch is set to control the line lock/two step position, then it will send a signal to the MSD box that has a two step rev limiter. So basically, i'm activating the line lock solenoid simultaneously (but it's not doing anything since I didn't put any pressure in the brakes). however, it will also set the rev limiter to my two step limit (e.g. 5000 RPM instead of the normal 6500 when the two step input is active). Doing this allows my to have the throttle wide open, prior to launch. This results in FULL air flow through the motor (e.g. high speed airflow through the manifold which should result in normal operation of a carb with the boosters). This alleviates issues with a carb having to rely on the accelerator pump circuit and manifold/air flow issues that can occur and low rpm. If you aren't drag racing then there is no need for a two step or really a line lock. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamieK 1 Report post Posted October 6, 2018 Thank you for this amazing thread on these amazing builds!! I'm building a 408 fastback and there's a ton of stuff I can learn here! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites