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BuckeyeDemon

69 mach 408w build

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7 hours ago, RPM said:

Oh the cage is outstanding also, but I'm impressed with all of it. Pretty welds too on the A or windshield pillar. 

thank you.   tig is so nice, with the ability to control the amount of material added, fusing, no spatter, etc.  i've come to the point where i just avoid using the mig 90% of the time.

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I can see everything with the exception of the pictures from February. I'm using Chrome. Wonder what's going on? Maybe I can resurrect my build thread on another forum. I was so disgusted with the Photobucket Block, I simply stopped updating it. 

 

The Falcon is looking good. Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing it in fresh paint. 

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18 minutes ago, SWPruett said:

Looks great!  Did you wet-blast the surfaces?  Ground looks wet under the body.  Just curious!

Black diamond abrasive media collected on a tarp.  I recycle it a few times, so I don't have a black beach in my driveway.  It lightens up with use.

 

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I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings.  Plan to take it to shop in November for machining.

SAM_1400.jpg

 

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SAM_1432.jpg

 

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SAM_1545.jpg

 

IMG_20180401_074933964.jpg

 

….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

IMG_20180717_200616598.jpg

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Just read through your entire build... dude... you are tenacious and your skill is amazing. I particularly like how you welded 1/8" metal rod to the doors or fenders to determine you own gaps. I LOVE THAT! I want tight gaps too. I also want to build a make shift paint booth in my garage as well.

Bravo!

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Following is a Table of Contents for the Mach portion of this build

BuckeyeDemons Build Table of Contents

 

3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28

 

alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17

angle grinder, pg7

 

backspace, pg41

backup LED, pg31

balancing tires, pg15, 41

bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15

blocking, pg5

brake lines and flaring, pg22

buffing trim, pg28

buffing, pg37

 

calendar cover picture, pg51

caliper kit, CSRP, pg7

CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47

cam specs, pg6, 16

cam, pg2

car dolly, pg5

car show, pg44

carpet, pg25

cart, car, pg3, 5

cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10

clock cluster, pg34

clock, quartz, pg30

clutch, pg47

compressor size, pg 37

console/gauges, pg12

cowl, pg35

 

Dan & Dad, pg44

dash, pg11

deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13

DFLP and 32586, pg30

door weights, loaded, pg5

drag tuning, pg45

dragstrip, pg45

drive line angles, pg1, 31

driveshaft loop, pg25

driveshaft, pg21

Dynaliner, pg9

Dynamat Extreme, pg9

Dynamat usage, pg 36

dyno testing, pg6

dyno, pg14

 

emblems, pg12

engine assembly pics, pg9

engine costs, pg7

engine crossmember, pg1

engine final, pg14

engine specs, pg6

engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12

engine wire harness, pg17

engine, 1st run, pg21

engine, 418, pg8

engine, pg7

engine/trans assembly, pg16

engine/trans install, pg20

engine/trans, how to install, pg16

epoxy primer, pg39

Evapo-Rust, pg9

exhaust pics, 3”, pg30

exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33

 

fan blade, pg1

fastener kits, pg44

filler neck fit, pg20

fire extinguisher positions, pg43

first car, pg10

flashers, pg30

flocking, pg12

floor support crossmember, pg8

flywheel/clutch, pg46

fold down seat, pg28

fold down seat, pg29, 32

FPA header problems, pg24

front fender extensions, pg5

fuel filler mod, pg 21

fuel filter, pg9

fuel gauge sender, pg9

fuel line mod, pg25

fuel line, pg9, 17

fuel system update, pg34

fuse terminals, pg30

 

gauge light tuning, pg 31

glass install, pg31

glass, pg26, 28

gotchas, pg20

guide coat, pg5, 7

gun bluing, pg6

 

header finish, pg5

headers, pg1

headlight/fender extensions, pg33

headliner, pg24

heads, pg6

heater box repair/paint, pg10

heater control bezel repair, pg11

height, pg43

hood paint wax test, pg38

hood trim, pg41-43

 

instrument regulator, pg22

Instrument Specialties, pg29

insulation, back area, pg26

insulation, pg25

interior quarter panels, pg12, 38

 

leaf spring addition, pg 46

leaf spring perches, pg 33

LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32

license plates, pg24

line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22

lug centric rims, pg15

 

Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23

Media blasted, car, pg1

milling intake manifold, pg13

mono-leaf springs, pg47

motor mount, pg47

mufflers, pg6

Mustang emblems, pg11

 

oil pan clearance, pg20

oil pan install, pg23

oil pan mod, pg23

overflow can, pg27, 28

 

paint booth filter, pg17

paint booth ventilation, pg13

paint booth venting, pg37

paint booth, pg5

paint colors, misc. parts, pg21

Paint Defender, pg45

paint guns, pg37

paint stripper, pg9

paint, A-pillar trim, pg25

paint, A-pillars, pg25

paint, anti-sway bar, pg6

paint, battery tray, pg6

paint, body mount locations, pg8

paint, body primer, pg5

paint, body, pg17, 18

paint, calipers, pg7

paint, Caltrac bars, pg6

paint, coil springs, pg6

paint, color test, pg3

paint, console, pg12

paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11

paint, dash parts, pg9

paint, dash, pg10, 30

paint, doors/hood, pg14

paint, driveshaft, pg23

paint, EM brake, pg3

paint, engine and parts, pg10

paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19

paint, engine enamel, pg3

paint, engine, pg6, 15

paint, fan blade, pg3

paint, fiberglass panels, pg17

paint, fold down seat, pg29

paint, hood, MTF, pg41

paint, hood, pg34, 38

paint, jack, pg17

paint, leaf springs, pg6

paint, lower control arms, pg8

paint, misc. small parts, pg8

paint, outer dash trim, pg21

paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5

paint, pinchweld, pg19

paint, radiator, pg8

paint, rear end, pg4, 21

paint, scattershield, pg7

paint, seat frame, pg17

paint, seat tracks, pg11

paint, shaker ribs, pg4

paint, shaker, pg3, 4

paint, spring perches, pg3

paint, spring stripes, pg7

paint, steering box, pg11

paint, steering column lower cover, pg21

paint, steering column wire cover, pg21

paint, steering column, pg10

paint, steering wheel trim, pg11

paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12

paint, strut rods, pg10

paint, trunk, pg13

paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35

paint, upper control arms, pg6

paint, wiper motor, pg9

panel gaps, pg1, 4

Parkerizing, pg4

phenolic spacer test, pg35

phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9

phosphate finish, pg4, 5

pressure plate, pg16

primer, K36, pg7

primer/blocking final, pg14

 

Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25

 

radio conversion, pg44

rear end, pg4

rear gears, pg2

rear lights, pg24

rear springs, pg6

red oxide, pg8

remetalized clock cluster, pg 29

residual valve, pg22

Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28

Rimblow/line lock, pg11

Rimblow Buddy, pg11

rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38

rust remover, chemical, pg9

 

sail panels, pg26

sealer, inside cabin, pg9

seam sealer, pg35

seat belts, pg36

seat fabric, pg13

seats, pg34, 35

shaker fit, pg38

shaker trim fit, pg44

shaker, pg2, 3

sheetmetal replacement, pg1

sheetmetal thickness, pg37

shock extensions, pg47

shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48

shocks, pg45

side scoop caulk, pg38

sleeper engine bay, pg20

Slide On Application Gel, pg42

sound deadener SF, pg9

sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9

sound deadener, pg26, 35

sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8

sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9

sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25

sound deadening on quarters, pg38

sound test, pg37

space saver spare tire, pg43

spark plug looms, pg49

Spectrum Second Skin, pg13

splash shields, pg26

spray gun, pg12

Ssnake Oyl, pg36

stabilizer bar fitment, pg23

stance, pg26

steering impression, pg40

stripes, pg42, 43

subframe connectors, pg1

suspension install, pg19

 

tach mount, pg 22

tail light bulbs, pg24, 30

TFS hi port heads, pg3

TIG, pg36, 37

timing mod, pg24

tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7

trailer tie downs, pg39

trap door, pg28

trunk catch, pg23

trunk finished, pg25

trunk, pg32

 

upper control arms, pg6

 

valve covers, pg6, 17

venting, fuel tank, pg49

video, 1st time on street, pg39

video, drag, pg46

video, drive, pg40

video, driving, pg32

video, in driveway, pg31

video, rear suspension, pg46

 

water pump, pg9

water shield, pg38

Weatherpak connector, pg23

weight, pg47

wheel/tire combo, pg47

work table, pg37

 

z-bar, pg1

z-bar rework, pg23

zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7

zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7

 

 

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1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Following is a Table of Contents for the Mach portion of this build

 

holy cow!  that looks like a lot of work.  even I will find it useful given I often have to go back to find a detail here or there.  thank you.  I will try to edit the first post and paste it there (if it won't throw off page numbers).

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BD, on page 22 you mention a residual valve but I don't see it in the picture. I've read that some are built into the master cylinder and some are placed in line: These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5 psi. up to 12 psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Was this required because of line lock, and whose line lock system did you use? I'm assuming that line lock prevents flow to the rear brakes, so are they positioned: master, line lock, and residual, then wheel cylinders? I've never seen a system but it sounds like a must-have-fun toy.

My paint is still original and the base paint on the hood is by far in the worst shape, because any wax I attempted to use would produce white streaks where it came in contact with the black. On page 38 your wax test on the hood black shows a definite increase in sheen. Then jnetforjt recalls a test where even primer can be made to shine with repeated applications of wax. So I was wondering how your black looks now after some years of waxing?

Thanks for your build/instruction manual ;)

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This is my favorite build thread and I often thought Buckeye should somehow self publish this thread as a book.  I'd buy a copy.  Especially with all full blown glossy pictures.  Awesome indexing as well Mach1!  Thanks for that.

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7 minutes ago, thegizmo said:

This is my favorite build thread and I often thought Buckeye should somehow self publish this thread as a book.  I'd buy a copy.  Especially with all full blown glossy pictures.  Awesome indexing as well Mach1!  Thanks for that.

I agree, but alas, the lad has no interest, even though its for the betterment of all mankind :p

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12 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

I agree, but alas, the lad has no interest, even though its for the betterment of all mankind :p

lol, it would be indeed!

Well, I finally became the proud owner of a 69 Mach 1 S Code on May 30th and it will need some TLC so I will be making use of your index for sure.

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10 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

BD, on page 22 you mention a residual valve but I don't see it in the picture. I've read that some are built into the master cylinder and some are placed in line: These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5 psi. up to 12 psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Was this required because of line lock, and whose line lock system did you use? I'm assuming that line lock prevents flow to the rear brakes, so are they positioned: master, line lock, and residual, then wheel cylinders? I've never seen a system but it sounds like a must-have-fun toy.

My paint is still original and the base paint on the hood is by far in the worst shape, because any wax I attempted to use would produce white streaks where it came in contact with the black. On page 38 your wax test on the hood black shows a definite increase in sheen. Then jnetforjt recalls a test where even primer can be made to shine with repeated applications of wax. So I was wondering how your black looks now after some years of waxing?

Thanks for your build/instruction manual ;)

the line lock is for holding the car stopped while doing burnouts in the box at the dragstrip.  it holds the pressure in the front brakes when activated (after pumping the brakes).  the residual valve has nothing to do with the line lock.   I installed it simply because it's easier to plan and install during the build than have to do rework IF it was needed.

the increase in sheen on the hood from the wax wasn't because the paint was getting glossier.  it was from the film left by the wax.  wipe some oil on something dull and it will give the similar appearance.  waxing/polishing is like buffing (with ultra/ultra fine compound and can led to increased gloss.  I've just been using the simple spray wax liquid that I wipe on and off quickly.  the hood still looks the same.   maybe if I applied the mothers carnuba wax repeatedly and let it dry before removing it would look different.   I don't know.

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Thanks for being patient, my post clearly shows my ignorance. Locking the front brakes negates the need for a third foot- one for all three pedals. So I take it that you press the brakes, flip the line lock switch, and hold the Rim Blow to keep the solenoid engaged. Then you can smoke the tires while in the box.

However, I’m intrigued by your statement on pg22 which seems to indicate that you also use line lock to launch the car: “the one switch in the console selects the function of the Rim Blow switch. In one position it will function normally to to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the horns. In the other position it will function to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the line lock and two step rev limiter (if enabled by the other switch in the console). If the console switch is in the position to select the line lock function, an LED will light in the switch itself. Thus during normal driving i don't want to see the LED on.

Very small current will pass through the small switches and the horn switch. I have two relays to pass the higher currents.”

Could you show me this circuit, and whose two step did you use? I'm guessing there is a clutch switch somewhere in the circuit, and since you are carbureted, it works by retarding the timing.

 

FYI, when making my full car schematic I measured the amperage with both horns sounding at 13.9A, so the Rim Blow switch was clearly intended to flow some current. However, I never had good luck with them. Both of mine spontaneously shorted while sitting in the parking lot and left the horns constantly blaring, so I finally gave up and used the center medallion to press a switch that I located behind it. Using a relay was a good move and should extend the life of the Rim Blow considerably.

 

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On ‎8‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 8:58 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

However, I’m intrigued by your statement on pg22 which seems to indicate that you also use line lock to launch the car: “the one switch in the console selects the function of the Rim Blow switch. In one position it will function normally to to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the horns. In the other position it will function to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the line lock and two step rev limiter (if enabled by the other switch in the console). If the console switch is in the position to select the line lock function, an LED will light in the switch itself. Thus during normal driving i don't want to see the LED on.

Very small current will pass through the small switches and the horn switch. I have two relays to pass the higher currents.”

Could you show me this circuit, and whose two step did you use? I'm guessing there is a clutch switch somewhere in the circuit, and since you are carbureted, it works by retarding the timing.

when I stage the car I have the horn select switch to set to control the line lock/two step when I push the rimblow.  When I stage the car, I set the line lock switch to the position, such that when I activate the rim blow and the horn select switch is set to control the line lock/two step position, then it will send a signal to the MSD box that has a two step rev limiter.  So basically, i'm activating the line lock solenoid simultaneously (but it's not doing anything since I didn't put any pressure in the brakes).  however,  it will also set the rev limiter to my two step limit (e.g. 5000 RPM instead of the normal 6500 when the two step input is active).  Doing this allows my to have the throttle wide open, prior to launch.  This results in FULL air flow through the motor (e.g. high speed airflow through the manifold which should result in normal operation of a carb with the boosters).  This alleviates issues with a carb having to rely on the accelerator pump circuit and manifold/air flow issues that can occur and low rpm.

 

If you aren't drag racing then  there is no need for a two step or really a line lock.

 

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