69 mach 408w build

[SWPruett 83]

It sure looks like the car is just not transferring weight to the rear tires correctly as evidenced by the severe bunny-hop motion throughout first gear. The shocks look like they need a lot more rebound damping instead of compression damping (but that's hard to say) and I would definitely say the boys advocating the lower hole and higher rear tire pressures are on the mark. Also, if the front shocks are adjustable, loosen up the rebound on them a good bit and see what happens.

 

Also, did you already baseline the car with plain leaf springs? Can't recall.

 

Keep diggin'!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

just for anyone not familiar with this, here are pictures of some shock extensions. they basically offset the shock so you get more rebound travel (and less bump travel). it's not quite as good as going with a longer body shock (you still give up bump travel but you get even more total travel).

 

they simply screw on. these are 1" for the front which results in about 2" more travel (due to the front geometry). i tried 2" extension in the front but when testing in the garage, the result was the sway bar was about 0.1" from the harmonic balancer and was hitting the lower radiator hose. also the upper control arm was about 0.1" from hitting the frame rail. so i didn't use those.

 

 

the rears are 2" extensions.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

 

Also, did you already baseline the car with plain leaf springs?

 

 

if by plain leaf springs you mean the leaf springs before i added the additional bands and old cut up leaf, then yes.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i replaced the centerforce DF (11") with a mcleod RXT (6921-07) which is a smaller dual disc. i was really worried the mcleod would be a little too grabby or chatter a little bit on the street due to the ceramic in the disks.

 

this clutch setup has absolutely no chatter and isn't difficult at all to get a smooth takeoff or shift (only have about 50 miles on this new one). the pedal pressure is even lighter than the centerforce and i feel the mcleod is overall smoother than the centerforce. i have no complaints of the pedal pressure or action of the centerforce, but this new one tops it. i'm hoping this characteristic doesn't change as i accumulate miles.

 

 

[Patriotgamez 14]

No Damper in the McCloud assy? Is there more vibration...felt or heard?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

No Damper in the McCloud assy? Is there more vibration...felt or heard?

 

this was a definite concern based on what i had read from a few people before buying. however, i don't notice any vibration from the change (only one week between driving the car with the different clutch setups). i don't know if it's because the engine is isolated enough from the body or if any additional vibration is simply masked by everything else (i'm running ron morris mounts that are pretty stiff).

 

i could hear a rattle sound around 1500 rpm range when really lugging it down in 5th. i was actively trying to listen for it though. i doubt it's something i'll even think about if not purposely trying to create it. maybe more miles will lead to some sort of vibration or noise.

[Patriotgamez 14]

this was a definite concern based on what i had read from a few people before buying. however, i don't notice any vibration from the change (only one week between driving the car with the different clutch setups). i don't know if it's because the engine is isolated enough from the body or if any additional vibration is simply masked by everything else (i'm running ron morris mounts that are pretty stiff).

 

i could hear a rattle sound around 1500 rpm range when really lugging it down in 5th. i was actively trying to listen for it though. i doubt it's something i'll even think about if not purposely trying to create it. maybe more miles will lead to some sort of vibration or noise.

 

Kudos to whomever balanced your rotating assy...if it wasn't right it would be even more noticeable without the damper on the clutch disc.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i'm about finished making a second set of brackets for the caltracs. I just need to weld a nut to the bracket, epoxy/paint.

 

The upper hole was located originally at 2.5" from the pivot. I'm guessing the lower hole (that I had cut off) was probably around 4" from the pivot. The stop pin is located 4" from the pivot.

 

Looking at it as a ratio and since lowering the heim joint location reduces the action, I decided to also move the location of the stop pin as well (reduced it by 0.5").

 

Stop Pin Distance / Upper Hole Distance = 4 / 2.5 = 1.60 (current ratio)

Stop Pin Distance / Lower Hole Distance = 4 / 4 = 1.00 (not available)

 

New Stop Pin Distance / New Hole Distance = 3.5 / 3.0 = 1.17

 

That ratio if I only lowered the torque rod by the 0.5" would have been (4/3) 1.33.

 

Below is a photo of the brackets i had been using with the new brackets.

[jandj1970 13]

i'm about finished making a second set of brackets for the caltracs. I just need to weld a nut to the bracket, epoxy/paint.

 

The upper hole was located originally at 2.5" from the pivot. I'm guessing the lower hole (that I had cut off) was probably around 4" from the pivot. The stop pin is located 4" from the pivot.

 

Looking at it as a ratio and since lowering the heim joint location reduces the action, I decided to also move the location of the stop pin as well (reduced it by 0.5").

 

Stop Pin Distance / Upper Hole Distance = 4 / 2.5 = 1.60 (current ratio)

Stop Pin Distance / Lower Hole Distance = 4 / 4 = 1.00 (not available)

 

New Stop Pin Distance / New Hole Distance = 3.5 / 3.0 = 1.17

 

That ratio if I only lowered the torque rod by the 0.5" would have been (4/3) 1.33.

 

Below is a photo of the brackets i had been using with the new brackets.

 

Mate can I ask why you made a second set of brackets for the Caltracs ?

Iam going to be doing subframe connectors how you ran yours, and I will be running caltracs as well. When you first bolted up the Caltracs where they interfering with the SFC.

 

Rgs Jason

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I made a second set of brackets so I could alter the ratio slightly. Hole locations that Cal Trac does not offer.

 

I was originally using the stock location upper hole. I had cut off the lower hole simply because it hung down too low and I didn't want to see it. I had to modify the bracket by moving the nut to the inner side because of my subframe connectors.

[jandj1970 13]

Thanks Buckeyedemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

here is a picture why I had to move the nut onto the inside of the bracket.

 

 

 

[jandj1970 13]

Thanks buckeyedemon, I can see why you had to move the nut to inside.

[MikeStang 247]

Hey Buckeye how about shooting me some measurements for some plates for my reverse eye springs...

I was getting ready to build me a set and when I looked under the car I was that the reverse eye spring would pose a problem in that there is no room for the cross bolt that sits on top of the spring.

As it is my reverse eye springs have the second spring right almost up to the eye lol there is no real dead or soft spot in my springs where they is a single spring to flex.

I called Caltrac and they said they sale a special bracket for the reverse eye springs but I cant locate a damn picture to copy it

[MikeStang 247]

And sale me those Koni's

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Hey Buckeye how about shooting me some measurements for some plates for my reverse eye springs...

I was getting ready to build me a set and when I looked under the car I was that the reverse eye spring would pose a problem in that there is no room for the cross bolt that sits on top of the spring.

As it is my reverse eye springs have the second spring right almost up to the eye lol there is no real dead or soft spot in my springs where they is a single spring to flex.

I called Caltrac and they said they sale a special bracket for the reverse eye springs but I cant locate a damn picture to copy it

 

I don't have reverse eye springs, so I don't have measurements.

 

I did recently see a photo somewhere of a mustang with reverse eyes/caltracs or mideyes. I'll try to remember where. Seems like it just resulted in curling upward at the spring pin.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

And sale me those Koni's

 

I sold the koni's about a month ago.

 

the one's on the car now (in the pic below) are not koni's. I simply painted and put the koni sticker on them to make them look like koni's.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

here is a pic. there is no upper pin, just a flat plate, probably to save space so it doesn't hit the floor.

 

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1350343363/OT,+67+mustang+traction+bars

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finally had a chance to weigh the car.

 

3564 lbs (3730 lbs including me)

 

that is with ~8 gallons of fuel.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I broke down and finally replaced the rear leaf springs.

 

I contacted calvert and they wanted to put their highest rate spring on it (225 lbs/in) which apparently is their default for a stick car. I compromised and asked to limit it to the 200 lb/in spring. I told them this was a street car that sees a little drag duty. I didn't get a positive feeling at all that these are recommended for the street.

 

I took a shot and got the 1" lower version as I've seen some photos of cars with these monoleafs and they had appeared to be sitting higher than I wanted. So I guessed with the 1" lower. I think it put it at the same height (before I added the half leaf).

 

I'm hoping with the fully double adjustable shocks that I can somehow soften the compression and make the ride reasonable. Hope to drive it sometime in the next few weeks when the weather clears.

 

I disassembled them, media blasted them, epoxied and overcoated with a little charcoal metallic. The fasteners were blasted and phosphated.

 

 

 

I also added another motor mount. I have about 3/16 of clearance between the shock tower and header on the passenger side shock tower. On hard shifts with quick clutch release I can feel it smack the tower. So hopefully this helps limit the movement. It will probably help the z-bar setup, although I don't think there were every any issues there. I wanted something that wasn't too hideous, but still provided some isolation.

 

I picked up a 1.5" tubular bushed mount and bracket from Race Ready. This tube mount is about the same size as used with the Ron Morris engine mount.

 

http://www.racereadyproducts.com/fabrication-components/

 

The tube is a piece of 0.75" that I had laying around. Fasteners/heim joints were media blasted and phosphated. I used a piece of 3/16" flat stock as the base for the tubular bracket that is bolted down using the two fasteners for the stabilizer bar.

 

[/url]

 

 

Compromises....

Edited December 21, 2014 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I broke down and finally replaced the rear leaf springs.

 

I contacted calvert and they wanted to put their highest rate spring on it (225 lbs/in) which apparently is their default for a stick car. I compromised and asked to limit it to the 200 lb/in spring. I told them this was a street car that sees a little drag duty. I didn't get a positive feeling at all that these are recommended for the street.

 

I took a shot and got the 1" lower version as I've seen some photos of cars with these monoleafs and they had appeared to be sitting higher than I wanted. So I guessed with the 1" lower. I think it put it at the same height (before I added the half leaf).

 

I'm hoping with the fully double adjustable shocks that I can somehow soften the compression and make the ride reasonable. Hope to drive it sometime in the next few weeks when the weather clears.

 

I disassembled them, media blasted them, epoxied and overcoated with a little charcoal metallic. The fasteners were blasted and phosphated.

 

 

 

I also added another motor mount. I have about 3/16 of clearance between the shock tower and header on the passenger side shock tower. On hard shifts with quick clutch release I can feel it smack the tower. So hopefully this helps limit the movement. It will probably help the z-bar setup, although I don't think there were every any issues there. I wanted something that wasn't too hideous, but still provided some isolation.

 

I picked up a 1.5" tubular bushed mount and bracket from Race Ready. This tube mount is about the same size as used with the Ron Morris engine mount.

 

http://www.racereadyproducts.com/fabrication-components/

 

The tube is a piece of 0.75" that I had laying around. Fasteners/heim joints were media blasted and phosphated. I used a piece of 3/16" flat stock as the base for the tubular bracket that is bolted down using the two fasteners for the stabilizer bar.

 

[/url]

 

 

Compromises....

Edited December 21, 2014 by BuckeyeDemon

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I had an opportunity to drive the car the other day. it was a short 15 minute drive. I think I noticed a very slight difference, which surprised me. I turned down the compression one click. I really need more seat time to say, but to first order it will be more than fine. I also couldn't tell any difference from the motor mount addition. On two hard shifts I didn't feel the header hit the tower (which is a good thing).

 

and for reference, the weight difference between the 200 lb/in monoleaf and my stock replacements (w/ the extra half leaf and additional clamps) was 24 versus 35 lbs (each).

 

ride height looks virtually the same to me. this was from the other day.

 

 

and from a few months ago.

 

[Guillaume69 150]

Buckeye, may I ask what wheels (rim/tire combo) you use when you go to the drag strip? Thanks.

G

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buckeye, may I ask what wheels (rim/tire combo) you use when you go to the drag strip? Thanks.

G

 

15x8 magnum in rear (standard offset)

15x6 magnum in front

 

MT ET Drag 28x9 (3054ST)

MT Sportsman Front (26x7.5)

 

I have switched out the fronts in favor of a set of 15x4 magnums (AR500)with MT ET Fronts (27.5x4.5).

 

all bias ply

 

here is a pic of the AR500. I don't know that I would call them a high quality piece, but they are cheap. Not super light either for an aluminum rim. 17 lbs for the 15x4 AR500 versus 23.2 lbs for a 15x6 steel magnum.

 

Edited January 2, 2015 by BuckeyeDemon

[Klutch 17]

I see above you have reinforced the shock towers like the big block and Boss 302 Mustangs. Is there a place in your build thread which talks about doing this? (If so, I did not see it.)

 

I was thinking about adding these reinforcements to my '70 Mach 1. The kits I've seen online seem a bit pricey. I'd be interested to know how you did it.

 

Thanks in advance.