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BuckeyeDemon

69 mach 408w build

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this is boring, but the seat belts are back from restoration. Ssnake-Oyl did the work. I was missing the lap belt assemblies for the front seats (they were replaced with a racing style belt), so i had found some belts from a 68 mustang. they redid the set to the 69 specifications.

 

they did a good job and completed on time.

 

here are some comparisons to the originals that were on the car.

 

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Not boring at all.

 

So, how does this work? You send Ssnake-Oyl a set of belts and they recondition them? If so, I'm thinking I'd like to send them my seat belts to be made "new" again. They're all there, but looking a little grimey.

 

Glad to hear you had a good experience with this vendor.

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So, how does this work? You send Ssnake-Oyl a set of belts and they recondition them? If so, I'm thinking I'd like to send them my seat belts to be made "new" again. They're all there, but looking a little grimey.

 

 

send them your belts and they will quote. it took around 5 weeks for them to redo the belts.

 

i can't tell by the quote if they used all new parts or restored some of the hardware pieces.

 

don't be surprised if they ask for your right arm.

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don't be surprised if they ask for your right arm.

 

I just went to their web site and saw it's $449 to buy a restored set. Hopefully, it will be less expensive to have mine restored. Lucky for me, I'm left-handed.

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Like, much higher, or much lower? My hardware is in pretty good shape. I think I just need new webbing.

 

here are some pics of the belts just before sending them out. most parts some speckles of rust. the cad plating was hit pretty hard and some of the non chromed pieces had some corrosion.

 

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I just got a sample of black comfortweave from SMS and it looks good. I asked them if the sample would come from the same roll that a new purchase would come from and they said yes.

 

Is it possible, that your comfortweave was damage when they made the seat covers? Do they need to apply heat to the comfortweave to make the covers? I don't know, just an Idea.

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anything new on the seats??

 

 

finished up the seats several weeks ago...

 

 

Picked up the front seats yesterday (Ronnie PRice upholstery & Top Shop located in Fairfield Ohio). he did very good work (not a fan of going over the quoted lead time...).

 

i had to pull back both sides of the upper at the latch handle to fix a screw and install the small round foam blocks, but that was simple.

 

i had striped, detailed, painted the seat tracks and trim awhile back.

 

the upholstery shop said the covers were nice along with the foam. i was sure he would have to add some filler material in a couple of places, but he said there was no need. he claimed he had 15 hours of labor installing the covers. said in a couple of cases there was two people trying to pull the covers over. he uses steam to remove wrinkles. he also installed all new burlap.

 

the upholstery was from TMI. i picked up the foam from NPD and was made by American Cushion Industries. the "red" stripe on the seat back has a bit of a fluorescent tone to it. my original seats didn't look like that.

 

i ended up taking about 0.35" out of the lower cylindrical rubber blocks that mount to the lower section. That allowed the seat back to recline about an inch or so. I'm a little under 6'2" and that made the seat feel much better.

 

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I just got a sample of black comfortweave from SMS and it looks good. I asked them if the sample would come from the same roll that a new purchase would come from and they said yes.

 

Is it possible, that your comfortweave was damage when they made the seat covers? Do they need to apply heat to the comfortweave to make the covers? I don't know, just an Idea.

 

the leftover material looks the same way. i'm skeptical SMS said *&%k this guy and sent bad material to TMI.

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How much Dynamat did you use for the entire car?

 

two packs. i believe each pack contained 9, 18X32 pieces.

 

that only covered the floor from the firewall back to the front edge of where the rear shock mounts are located along with the roof.

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picked up a used tig setup a few weeks ago. it literally had 2 hours of run-time on the meter, so it's in good shape.

 

i've been spending about 20 minutes every other day or so playing around with it, moving a puddle, butt welds, laps, fillets, tubes, etc. i did a little bit of stainless, but haven't tried aluminum yet.

 

part of me wishes i would have gotten it years ago when i upgraded the mig, but at that time i didn't want to spend the money on something that was so unknown...

 

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What do you think about the transition from MIG to TIG? I have been looking at some machine myself. B

 

tig is quite a bit different. about the only thing from knowing how to mig that probably helped transition to tig, was simply being used to looking at a molten pool.

 

at first i didn't really have a concept of how much wire to feed into the pool (i couldn't distinguish between melting existing material and what i added).

 

having self learned to mig early in life, i can still remember the frustration. so this time around, i was only spending on the order of 20 minutes at a time playing, just because frustration can lead to bad things and giving up.

 

it really hasn't been that hard to pick up though (hard to make look really nice). i've done a little bit of sheetmetal and warped the heck out of it.

 

out of position welding really sucks with tig. i'm guessing experience will make it a little easier but probably not that much. the owner threw in a handle control which isn't nearly like the foot control.

 

not having slag, spatter, smoke, etc, is really nice. the welding helmet is still crystal clear. being able to fuse metal is really nice (with mig i had a tendency to get a lump where i had made a tack).

 

the welds aren't hard as rocks either with the tig, so grinding seems easier

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miller syncro 200

 

That's an awesome TIG machine, congrats! I took a class for both MIG and TIG last year, but only had enough cash to buy a MIG. I really enjoyed TIG a lot more, and can't wait till the day I can buy one and start playing.

 

Your welds really look pretty darn good for just starting out! Good luck with it.

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