69 mach 408w build

[stang1969 10]

Very professional looking! How are the seats coming along?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Very professional looking! How are the seats coming along?

 

thank you.

 

i took the front seats over to the upholstery shop last friday. he thought it would take around 3 weeks. he was going to send photos of his progress, so hopefully those start popping in next week.

[Klutch 17]

Buckeye, it appears you painted the undercarriage a gloss gray. Is that the way your car came from the factory? It looks great!

 

I thought the undercarriage was supposed to be a shade of red, but maybe that was just the '70 Mustangs. Likely, I'm just confused.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buckeye, it appears you painted the undercarriage a gloss gray. Is that the way your car came from the factory? It looks great!

 

I thought the undercarriage was supposed to be a shade of red, but maybe that was just the '70 Mustangs. Likely, I'm just confused.

 

it depends on what plant the car was built at and what day.

 

can you find any remnants of original paint on yours? i can't speak for all years and plants, but in general, Dearborn used leftover topcoats (all mixed together) to spray on the undercarriage (from the firewall back). so the color of the mixed paint could vary.

 

here are pics of my original undercarriage. you can see the grayish color, along with some of the candyapple red overspray and the black from the pinchwelds.

 

 

 

 

[Klutch 17]

My Mustang is also a Dearborn car. I will take a good look underneath for any paint traces. It's a desert car and it's pretty sandblasted under there. But I do have some sections of the original floor pans which had some factory undercoating. Maybe I can find some paint behind the undercoating.

 

Thanks for the info.

[Junior2561 10]

Anything new on the seats??

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Anything new on the seats??

 

i just got back from stopping into the upholstery shop (i was in the area for something else). i've been calling every week and getting the same story. they are busy and going to work on it.

 

the latest story is 2 more weeks. they still need to install the covers.

 

2-3 weeks has turned into 8 weeks (maybe more).

 

gotta love suppliers...

[Klutch 17]

Buckeye,

 

Did you replace the cowl on your Mach 1? I looked back through your build, but didn't see if you replaced your cowl.

 

 

The 69/70 replacement cowls come as an assembled unit; top and bottom already welded together. On another forum, someone pointed out this makes it difficult to weld on the bottom, inside area (just above the fresh air vents.) I already installed my cowl. So, I'm not sure what to do now.

 

So, if you replaced your cowl, I was wondering how you approached this.

 

Thanks.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buckeye,

 

Did you replace the cowl on your Mach 1? I looked back through your build, but didn't see if you replaced your cowl.

 

 

The 69/70 replacement cowls come as an assembled unit; top and bottom already welded together. On another forum, someone pointed out this makes it difficult to weld on the bottom, inside area (just above the fresh air vents.) I already installed my cowl. So, I'm not sure what to do now.

 

So, if you replaced your cowl, I was wondering how you approached this.

 

Thanks.

 

i was lucky and didn't have cowl issues.

[Klutch 17]

Lucky you! Thanks anyway.

 

Hope you get your upholstery soon.

[Legion 10]

It is difficult unless you take off the outer cowl panel so you can weld the flange area on the cowl to the top of the inside cowl panel (above fresh air vents). I replaced the entire cowl, but replaced 90% of the front end so those pieces were off any way. I'm not sure if I have any pictures on my build thread (it's been a while since I've posted, need to get some progress photos up). I can look through my pics and see if I have any that may help if your interested.

[Klutch 17]

Thanks, Legion. My cowl is already in place. Perhaps I will just tack weld the inner area to the cowl from the outside.

 

I did see a video online where the restorer applied panel adhesive to the inner area before welding on the cowl. That's probably a very good solution, but now water under the bridge for my case. I do NOT want to remove the cowl and start over.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Picked up the front seats yesterday (Ronnie PRice Hpholstery & Top Shop located in Fairfield Ohio). he did very good work (not a fan of going over the quoted lead time...).

 

i had to pull back both sides of the upper at the latch handle to fix a screw and install the small round foam blocks, but that was simple.

 

i had striped, detailed, painted the seat tracks and trim awhile back.

 

the upholstery shop said the covers were nice along with the foam. i was sure he would have to add some filler material in a couple of places, but he said there was no need. he claimed he had 15 hours of labor installing the covers. said in a couple of cases there was two people trying to pull the covers over. he uses steam to remove wrinkles. he also installed all new burlap.

 

the upholstery was from TMI. i picked up the foam from NPD and was made by American Cushion Industries. the "red" stripe on the seat back has a bit of a fluorescent tone to it. my original seats didn't look like that.

 

i ended up taking about 0.35" out of the lower cylindrical rubber blocks that mount to the lower section. That allowed the seat back to recline about an inch or so. I'm a little under 6'2" and that made the seat feel much better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[stangme428 33]

looking great!!:thumbup1:

[Klutch 17]

Yeah, looking great to the tenth power!

 

Do you think it's possible the original seat stripes also had a bit of a flourescent hue that simply dulled over the years?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Do you think it's possible the original seat stripes also had a bit of a flourescent hue that simply dulled over the years?

 

i wouldn't think the color would get darker, or Ford would allow that color to come from the factory. don't know though.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i posted this on another forum (promised i would try to get some data). so i'll also paste it here for reference. it was concerning the effectiveness of a phenolic spacer....

 

 

 

today i got it out and thought i would make a few quick measurements. i wanted it to be hotter, but i guess this was a quick sample. i would still like to get some data on a 90 degree day when i can really get things to heat soak.

 

it is about 72 degrees with low humidity. the shaker assembly was off (so is the hood). i had it basically idling for 20 minutes or so.

 

as a reminder, i have a Vic Jr, 1/4" phenolic spacer, return style fuel system (fuel is cool).

 

the water temp gauge was reading about 165F

 

i made three measurements as shown in the pic (look for green tape).

 

intake manifold, top, next to water neck: 153F

intake manifold, right below carb stud: 124F

carb base, right next to stud: 89F

 

[Klutch 17]

I'd say that's a good, scientific example. You should publish this study in a journal. :smile:

[Klutch 17]

Hi Buckeye,

 

Could you please talk a little more about the sealers you used on your Mach 1? I went back and read those sections of your project thread. But I'm still a little confused. Specifically:

 

- Did you spray on all the sealer? Or, did you use the caulking tube type of seam sealer on the smaller areas?

 

- If I understand correctly, you also applied a spray on sound deadener to match the factory examples. What specifically was this sound deadener? Did it require a special spray gun?

 

- Did you apply the sealer and sound deadener over bare metal, or primer?

 

Sorry for being a biscuit. I really like the way you did the sealer and sound deadener on your Mach 1 and I'd like to do the same. I have a copy of the weld and sealing manual. I'm trying to follow that.

 

Thanks in advance.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

- Did you spray on all the sealer? Or, did you use the caulking tube type of seam sealer on the smaller areas?

 

i didn't spray any seam sealer.

on the appropriate seams, i used a two part heavy bodied seam sealer (3M 08308). it uses a special caulk gun along with special mixing tips. there are directions for using this material. there is a small time window where you don't have to scuff it when topcoating. i've used the old popular 3M fast and firm and really don't like it.

 

i apply a small bead, then my finger to smooth it out. with the two part, do small sections at a time (like one long edge of the trunk lid). this will keep the material moving through the cap and keep it from kicking before you want it too. in some areas, i used a small brush to make it look like it was brushed on.

 

 

 

 

- If I understand correctly, you also applied a spray on sound deadener to match the factory examples. What specifically was this sound deadener? Did it require a special spray gun?

 

 

it was a product from Second Skin called Spectrum. I used a generic sound deadener/undercoating gun to spray it on. i experimented with different pressures and distances to get the look i wanted.

 

i also applied this material inside the door skins when i had them laying flat (mixed in the material to make it sludge). i used a paint roller to spread it over the skin. i applied around 3 coats.

 

 

- Did you apply the sealer and sound deadener over bare metal, or primer?

 

 

the seam sealers and sound deadeners were applied over epoxy/primers.

[Klutch 17]

^^ That's very helpful. Thanks, Buckeye.

 

I already applied some sealer over bare metal. I hope that isn't a problem. I had hoped to have some epoxy primer already on the car. But I'm still waiting for the SPI wax and grease remover I ordered. I cleaned the areas with another wax and grease remover before I applied the seam sealer.

 

Sheesh, it seems wherever two or more pieces of steel meet, it needs seem sealer.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

^^ That's very helpful. Thanks, Buckeye.

 

I already applied some sealer over bare metal. I hope that isn't a problem. I had hoped to have some epoxy primer already on the car. But I'm still waiting for the SPI wax and grease remover I ordered. I cleaned the areas with another wax and grease remover before I applied the seam sealer.

 

Sheesh, it seems wherever two or more pieces of steel meet, it needs seem sealer.

 

the 3M 08308 useage instructions state to apply only to primed or painted metal surfaces. the directions also state to apply over a good 2-part automotive primer.

 

3M 08308 Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer

 

what do the directions for the seam sealer you're using state?

 

do you have a local paint shop? they should have some cleaner.

[Klutch 17]

I'm using Eastwood's High Solids Seam Sealer. The directions just say to make sure the surface is clean and free of debris and to remove any wax or grease. It doesn't mention whether the surface should be primed or not.

 

Wasn't the factory seam sealer applied over bare metal?

 

I have some wax and grease remover I got from my local paint store. But when I called SPI to make sure it was OK, they said they didn't recommend it. Strangely, they said I could clean the area to be primed with a solution of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid, or use their water based wax and grease remover. I didn't want to use Dawn dishwashing liquid. So I ordered some of SPI's wax and grease remover.

Edited September 16, 2012 by Klutch

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Wasn't the factory seam sealer applied over bare metal?

 

I have some wax and grease remover I got from my local paint store. But when I called SPI to make sure it was OK, they said they didn't recommend it. Strangely, they said I could clean the area to be primed with a solution of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid, or use their water based wax and grease remover. I didn't want to use Dawn dishwashing liquid. So I ordered some of SPI's wax and grease remover.

 

i'm guessing the factory applied it to the metal. my car also had rust under most areas of seam sealer.

 

if you read some of the directions for primer from PPG, i believe they will discuss washing with soap and water.

 

i would be shocked if you couldn't go to an automotive paint supply shop and use any of those wax and grease removers. maybe SPI doesn't want you to step into an automotive paint shop.

[Klutch 17]

Well, shoot. I was thinking soap and water would create rust.

 

It could be that SPI wants to keep me out of a paint store. But they've been helpful whenever I have questions. I heard many good things about their products. And their prices are also pretty reasonable. When I asked about epoxy primer at my local paint store, I was pretty shocked at how much they wanted for it. And it was some brand I had never heard off.