Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Stanger69

convertible not working, any ideas?????

Recommended Posts

Ok thanks for reading this thread. Here's the situation. The otherday I took out the car for a drive, and put the top down. I heard some girgling sound from the passenger side, I assumed it was the hydrolics from the top. After the drive I tried to put the top up and sure enough the top would not go up. The motor is still working but the top just will not do anything. Questions: With the top down, how can I raise it so I can get a better look at the hydrolic lines(I'm assuming the motor is good and there is a leak in the line)??? After taking the rear sit out, I noticed some fluid by the down by the passenger side floor. If the line is leaking, after replacing it, do I need a new pump because the fluid has ran out????How do you replace the fluid?? Just replace with a new pump???? Sorry if this is hard to understand? Thanks. Stephen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, you sprung a leak. Either a cylinder blew out or more than linkely a line on the pass side. After removing the upper and lower rear seat, remove the rear vent window handle and passenger side inner quarter trim panel. That will gain you access to both lines where they attach to the cylinder. 1/2" wrench if I recall correctly gets the lines off the cylinders. There's a line on each end of the cylinder as they are double acting. Pump will be fine unless you left the switch on and ran it a while with no fluid then it will burn up. I dont remember the pump having a fill on top so maybe on the end? If so you'll have to remove it from the base by removing the front two nuts. I think a half inch deep well works best here so the ratchet clears the pump. I am not sure what the bleeding procedure is but I am sure there is one. Someone else can chime in, this should get you to the source of the problem at least.

 

good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FRH, thanks for information. That's exactly what I needed. I hope someone can fill in the remainder of the problem. I know I'll have to fill the hydraulic fluid up. Can someone tell me WHERE and with WHAT TYPE of fluid?? I'm assuming I fill, push button until I don't see bubbles in the lines and then reconnect the hose. Thanks a bunch. Stephen

Edited by Stanger69

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Shop Manual says there is a filler plug and the fluid level should be level with the filler plug.

 

Bleeding the system (slightly abbreviated due to excessive wordiness)

They didn't have any pics. in the manual.

 

1 lower door & rear window glass

2 Remove filler plug & fill with type A transmission fluid

3 With filler plug install by 2 or 3 threads, engine running, cycle the top a sufficient number of times to purge the system of air. Replenish fluid as needed. Note When cycling the top make certain the cylinders have freedom of movement in both inner quarter panel structure and quarter trim panels.

 

So no bleeder valve, just loosen up the filler plug enough to let air out.

And regular type A tranny fluid =)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The location for where you add the fluid is on the pump. There is a rubber filler plug on the pump, all you do it pull it out and you will need a funnel to fill it up. I had to rework my system, and I was able to do it without bleeding the air out. It will do it on it's own, but you have to keep topping off the fluid in the reservoir.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone that took their time to respond. I have all the information now to redo the cylinders. I have still one problem. Everything that I have read says to have the top up, but my top is stuck down. I'm assuming if I unbolt the old cylinders from the top I can then pull the top back up, install new cylnders and start filling the motor. Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure this is going to happen to me one of these days, but I have to echo what Fordrevhead said. I am amazed every single time my top goes up and down without a problem. It's done that for the 20 years I have owned this car, and it did it for 20 years before that with no complaints, it's the original pump and cylinders. I might go so far as to say that this is the most reliable part Ford put in the car at the time. :yes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes exactly, disconnect the cylinders by popping off the speed nut (press on slotted washer) and drive the pin out. This might be easier said than done working side the quarter. I believe they are installed "heads inward" so they need to be tapped from the outside and they stick pretty well in the cast housings... dont lose the plastic flanged bushings. Anyway, if you have real trouble 3 bolts on each side on the inner quarter, the front latches, the hydraulic lines and the entire top comes off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...