Torque Box Replacement

[Horizon 10]

Hey guys..:helpsmilie:

 

I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace both torque boxes WITHOUT replacing the floor pans or frame rails. I have zero cancer on the floor or frame rails, but the front-bottom side of the drivers t-box is starting to punch through. The passenger t-box is, for the most part, good except for the rear-bottom seam where it is beginning to seperate. I figure I'll do both just to be safe. The only other rust on the car are the overlaps on the top of the aprons, but those are just patch jobs and is fairly typical as I understand. My last car, a 67, had to have everything done so I didn't learn much to answer this myself.

 

I've searched everywhere to find the answer, but every article I locate they are doing the entire floor and frame rails at the same time and not just the boxes. I'm trying to find the process of doing *just* the t-boxes.

 

Is replacing t-boxes (correctly) possible without having to do the floor/frame rails? If anyone has actually done this, pics are appreciated!

 

~Jeffrey

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

You shouldn't have to replace the frame rails to replace the torque boxes. However don't be surprised if there are some holes in the frame rails underneath the torque boxes. even if there are, just cut some metal and weld it in.

 

however not cutting into the firewall is probably another story. i believe you will have to cut a small area of the toe board out. however if you make the correct cuts, and then reweld that cutout metal back in when you are done, then nobody should notice from either the front or underside. the main problem is that the top side of the torque box mounts onto the top side of the frame rail lip.

 

if everything is as solid as you think, then why not just cut out the bottom part of the torque box (it is two pieces) and just replace that? that would be a very simple procedure and would still give you access to the potential rust in the frame rail. just buy the two piece torque boxes so you don't have to drill out the existing welds.

 

below are some pics (my toe boards were removed) to maybe help visualize what it looks like.

 

 

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20torque%20box/

[Horizon 10]

All the t-boxes I've found are already welded together; do you just separate the pieces then?. I think you could be right about just taking out the bottom part of the t-box....I'll have to take a closer look. I haven't taken the fenders off yet and that might reveal more, eh? I'll remove them later this week I guess.

 

I know that the floor is solid from the top and there isn't any indication that the bottom side is near rusting through. Thanks for the link...helps, but I REALLY don't want to remove a floor again if I don't have to. LOL

 

~Jeffrey

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the two piece design is common. just search dynacorn and torque box. you could use the one piece, but you would have to drill out the welds. not a big deal, but why bother.

[Jayru 17]

Hey BuckeyeD,

 

Great pics! So if I'm understanding them right, the upper part of the torque box is the toe kick panel, or is the toe kick placed directly on top basically laying on the upper torque box?

 

It's a little confusing in the pics. I too have great floors/frame rails, but my bottom torque boxes seem to be showing some rust that was treated with a little filler to mask by the PO.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the "toe panel" is just a section of the firewall which extends from the cowl all the way to the floor where it is spotwelded. they typicaly call replacement patch panels toe boards or panels. the firewall is one piece.

 

the "toe panel" or firewall is not part of the torque box. each front torque box is actually two pieces that are spot welded together. it sits just underneath the firewall.

 

i remember researching them as well and was confused until i saw the pieces in my hands.

 

here are some pictures for replacement of this firewall patch (patch panel is not correct for 69).

 

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20toe%20board/

Edited September 23, 2009 by BuckeyeDemon

[Jayru 17]

Ok, i think i get what you're talking about.

 

So the only reason you need to touch the floor at all is because the upper part of the torque box sits above the frame but below the floor (sandwiched in between). So that section of the floor must be cut to remove the upper part of the torque box.

 

Sound right?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

you could probably try to drill out the spot welds from both the top and the bottom, but my guess is that it will be tough to get all out and back in.

 

you should try it, and let people know if it can be done!