69 coupe Taillight Panel. Previous owner was drunk.

[fro_drummer 10]

The tail panel on my coupe was not installed correctly. The whole panel is angled inward toward the fuel cap on both sides. Also, the drivers side is off by about a 1/2''. When I Installed the quarter extension, I noticed that although the top of the extension bolted/lined up perfectly, the lower portion of the extension sits about a 1/2'' from contacting the tail panel (looks as though the panel was pushed toward the front of the car, and tacked into place when he installed it). Although the car has new quarters, I am wondering if I can make this tail panel work, or if I should replace the whole panel? I will take a picture this evening and post it tomorrow. You should see this thing.... The previous owner was definitely DRUNK when he put the panel on. Anyone with eyes can tell that this is not correct. Anyone ever ran into this problem? Wondering if he removed too much sheetmetal on the rear portion of the quarter panel. If so, should I just replace the quarters?? :helpsmilie:

Edited September 14, 2009 by fro_drummer

[klevor 10]

May have been in an accident. And repaired incorrectly by PO. Pics will help. Good luck.

[foothilltom 33]

Could it be a tail panel from a 67-68? They were concave toward the front of the car.

[RogerC 136]

pics?

[fro_drummer 10]

 

 

 

[RogerC 136]

Yep, that's screwed up. How'd he even do that? At some point during the installation he had to say "this don't look right".

[fro_drummer 10]

I have no idea. The guy was putting from the rough thats for sure. I think I can massage the panel back into shape as far as the curvature goes, but I don't know how to correct the gap between the tail panel and extension. It looks as though he shaved a portion off of the rear section of the quarter panel and then muscled the tail panel into place. Hell, I don't know. I am not looking for a concours restoration, but this is unacceptable. Any ideas??????

[SlimeGold 69 15]

May have been in an accident. And repaired incorrectly by PO. Pics will help. Good luck.

 

Yeah I would be checking for buckled frame rails and damaged trunk floor. IF it's been pegged in the rear at some point a new taillight panel and quarters are not going to fix a bent car. I would start from scratch with another panel and IF the trunk/frame is bent then that will need fixed/pulled out first.

Edited September 16, 2009 by SlimeGold 69

[Pakrat 1,043]

Yeah that looks more like a buckle from a hit than a bad install to me. If so then all the metal that it connects to is what needs to be inspected and fixed, not just replacing the panels. Not that I recommend this but the only way I could maybe see to possibly hide it instead of fixing it would be switching to the Shelby panel since it goes right over the exisiting one but that also requires Shelby end caps, trunk lid, tail lights, etc and in the end would cost as much or more then pulling the frame or what not back to square and the problem wouldn't be fixed just look OK.

[fro_drummer 10]

This may seem like a dumb question but how would I go about pulling it out? Are you referring to removing a portion of the frame? Or do you mean moving the exhisting frame to the correct the defect? I suppose either could be needed depending on the severity of the defect.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I doubt you could do it yourself, here's a picture of my frame being pulled at the body shop after my accident, of course my car was bent like a boomerang lengthwise, not from the rear like we suspect yours is.

 

 

The first thing you need to do is confirm that things are in fact not square, that will determine what if anything needs to be pulled back out. Here's a diagram of the stock frame dimensions, get a tape, get on your back and get to it.:tongue_smilie:

 

[SlimeGold 69 15]

This may seem like a dumb question but how would I go about pulling it out? Are you referring to removing a portion of the frame? Or do you mean moving the exhisting frame to the correct the defect? I suppose either could be needed depending on the severity of the defect.

 

 

How does the trunk lid fit? If some hack has installed new quarters and a tail panel you may end up re-doing it all to get it right (assuming the frame is true and the panels are hung incorrect). But like Pak said, if the frame/chassis is out of whack then it's time to see a good body shop with a table and pulling equipment, then start on the body panels or it will never look good.

Edited September 16, 2009 by SlimeGold 69

[fro_drummer 10]

I got under the car last night and inspected it for defects. Aside from a little surface rust, the frame is visually straight. No buckles/bends at all. But it sounds like I need to get a tape and start measuring. Great idea and thanks for the input and diagram. Gonna cross my fingers.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Yeah visual is very deceiving and it does not take much to create that 1/2" gap on your car, diagnal measurements are the only way to be sure, if it is straight then great you don't need the frame straightened at all but that means the issue is cosmetic and all exterior panels likely have to come off and get realigned by a sober person, either way you are looking at some extensive work to fix a minor issue or you will be fudging every single part in relation to this issue and it will all look a little off at some angle.

 

Good Luck, let is know your findings.

[Angel 24]

hey pak, i noticed you have the dimensions for the under body, would you happen to know the dimensions between the shock towers? I want to measure how far apart my shock towers are but have nothing to reference my measurements to. Im curious about how much they have sagged over the years.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I do not have that dimension Angel sorry, but it is the same length as a monte calro bar, lol. I might be able to measure mine for you this weekend though, when I installed my export brace it literally bolted right on as I had no sag what so ever on my car so I know I haven't strecthed it outward any and it should still be pretty close to original. Do you want it from any particular point to point?

[fro_drummer 10]

I had to work late last night so I was not able to put a tape on the car. But this morning, in my rush to head out the door, I managed to measure between the front frame rails. I found a similar diagram to the one Pak provided in my Chiltons manual. It calls for the same measurement totals (in inches) but shows it being measured from slightly different areas. Chiltons shows the front rail measurement being taken from the inside of the frame rails (Left to right). I see on your diagram above that the front rail measurement is being taken from sway bar mount to sway bar mount. Which one is going to be correct? I am guessing that Chiltons is not correct because I measured from the inside of one rail to the other and came up with 27.42, although they have it listed as 26.42. After a morning of panic, I pulled up the diagram that Pak had provided and noticed that it calls for the measurement to be taken from SB mount to SB mount. After work I intend to re-measure everything using both diagrams.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Chiltons is most likely wrong, they can't legally just use Ford's daigram so they probably redrew it and didn't pay attention to the poitnts, the diagram I gave comes from Ford. In fact if you look at my diagram you can easily see that there would be about a 1/2" difference on each side from SB mount to inner frame rail.

 

This is a prime example of why we always encourage folks to spend the money on the Ford shop manuals. Haynes and Chiltons are OK for a reference but they are riddled with mistakes in every section like torque specs, sequences, dimensions, etc.

[fro_drummer 10]

Yeah, my Chiltons manual is extremely vague and seems to never touch on the issues I am having when I reference it. I can put the Chiltons manual to good use though....... I seem to be out of toilet paper.

[fro_drummer 10]

How did you come across that Ford manual? Can I get it online?

[Pakrat 1,043]

Yes, every Mustang vendor sells them, the are a 5 volume set. Instead of covering all mustangs from 65 - 73 they cover just that model year like 69 but include cougar, torino, etc.. You can also get them on an earth friendly CD now for like a 3rd of the price. Just do a google for "69 Ford shop manual" and you will come up with all kinds of sources. The Ford assembly manuals are invaluable also if tackling a full on restoration, basically they are copies of the blueprints they used on the line by the workers, there is one for every section.

[fro_drummer 10]

Also, I have been noticing a small puddle accumulating under the rear end after each time I push it in/out of the garage. It's a 9''. I haven't done much investigating but I believe it is coming from the front of the diff. Any ideas?

[Len69Coupe 33]

Also, I have been noticing a small puddle accumulating under the rear end after each time I push it in/out of the garage. It's a 9''. I haven't done much investigating but I believe it is coming from the front of the diff. Any ideas?

 

If it's leaking where the driveshaft enters the 3rd member it's the pinion seal. Pretty easy to change if thats it.

[69RestoRod 10]

If it's leaking where the driveshaft enters the 3rd member it's the pinion seal. Pretty easy to change if thats it.

 

You'll need a new crush sleeve and the correct wrench to set the torque. I learned this the hard way years ago. Put in a new crush ring and speedi sleeve just to have the torque setting bite me in the ass.