DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 15, 2009 813.841.8434 Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted September 15, 2009 Pull out the plugs and dry them off. you have prob flooded it by now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 15, 2009 Pull out the plugs and dry them off.you have prob flooded it by now. Yea i'll do that but now when I check I have no spark coming from the plug wires at all? I bought a test light and when testing the coil i get a very very dim light i also replaced the 2 blown fuses also=( I'm going to try and run a wire from the positive side and touch the coil + part and see if the wire from the firewall has a short? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 15, 2009 Ok so i run a line from the positive side of the battery to the coil, it starts right up! but was idling way high and when I push back on the trottle is makes a loud belt like noise even with belt dressing sprayed on it. Here is the kicker, i turn the car off with the key it keeps going till i pull the line off the positive side?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 15, 2009 I also notice some fuses were missing from the fuse blk. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 I really think you have a ground issue somewhere, when these cars experience electrical gremlins that suddenly come and go here and there it is almost always a ground issue and you may laugh but I have seen more than one occasion where some PO decided for some reason along the way that they didn't need to replace the ground strap going from the block to the firewall, this sends mixed signals thru the whole body of the car and dorks everything up. A bad ground for the distributor can cause issue to but that is usually a works or don't work thing not a come and go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 I really think you have a ground issue somewhere, when these cars experience electrical gremlins that suddenly come and go here and there it is almost always a ground issue and you may laugh but I have seen more than one occasion where some PO decided for some reason along the way that they didn't need to replace the ground strap going from the block to the firewall, this sends mixed signals thru the whole body of the car and dorks everything up. A bad ground for the distributor can cause issue to but that is usually a works or don't work thing not a come and go. When you say ground strap? I know I do have wires running to the firewall or above on the part just where the hood sits? If not is it just a strap that bolt to any area on the car then to the firewall? bc I can tell you unless its small I have only to grounds to the block the one off the starter relay on the neg side and the neg battery cable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 Ok so after doing some reading i see that the pass side should have a ground wire running up threw the firewall and connected to the head? Also they said you can bolt it to the head and somewhere on the firewall just make sure it has good contact. Sound right? God I've learned more in 3 wks then I though I could with all the small things that can happen. And all the money I put out only to not treat the problem=( I remember some wise master saying using a shotgun not a riffle=) Haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 Bingo, I'll bet this is your issue then, I should have thought of it sooner but it is one of those things you take for granted, this may not fix your issue since the lack of one wouldn't drain your battery but it is definitly a gremlin plagueing you. It's just a braided strap that looks like this, you can get them for less than $10 and yes go from the head directly to the firewall. BTW, you still have it in reverse, it's use a rifle not a shotgun!:biggrin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 Bingo, I'll bet this is your issue then, I should have thought of it sooner but it is one of those things you take for granted, this may not fix your issue since the lack of one wouldn't drain your battery but it is definitly a gremlin plagueing you. It's just a braided strap that looks like this, you can get them for less than $10 and yes go from the head directly to the firewall. BTW, you still have it in reverse, it's use a rifle not a shotgun!:biggrin: I know what your saying but you told me I was using a shotgun not a rifle=) Haha, yes I will get one bc it should be there. If this doesnt fixs the issues should I trace the wire back to wherever it goes to and replace it? I hope to have it done to drive it this weekend=) also is there anyother area to mount tap into for the coil?? Thanks man Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 (edited) Also if this helps I have a Pertronix ignitor setup and i think it is not wired right. I have the pertronix which has a neg and positive wires running out of it both going to the coil side +/-, then I have the wire coming from the firewall from i believe the ignition to the + side of the coil. So what i've read the coil should have 1 wire to the + side which is the one running to the ignition (green/red) wire?? Then I should be running another red(12vol) wire from the ignition to the (+)side of the Pertronix cable? So the coil has only 2 wires both a + & -? As the pic below shows?? Edited September 16, 2009 by DanF1973 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 I don't know where you got that picture but that is what F's most folks up with the pertronix, the pink wire is a fusable link and as such it reduces the volts from the coil down to about 6, the pertronix needs a full 12. First off I highly recommend spending the extra cash on their flame thrower coil if you haven't already, the unit works best when paired together, next follow pertronix's simple directions, connect the black wire from the Petronix module to the negative (-) side of the coil. Connect the red wire from the Petronix module and the ignition wire to the positive (+) side of the coil, done, finished easy peasy rice and cheesy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Spoke with a tech support from the company. The guy did run the coil and ignition wires wrong. Everything above is the right way and he did say it was ok to run a stock OEM coil. I asked him if everything was running ok what did he think?? He said the Accel coil was maybe a 12volt which I guess most are 6volts and when I did what i did just killed it. He said I could try running the 12volt from the electric choke? So will look at it tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Sorry Pak but the picture is right. There's 12V at the ignition switch side of the pink wire, but only 6V at the other end, which is coil+. So the picture's right. If you hook the Pertronix to +coil you're only getting 6V . But, like you said, if you swap the Ford 6V coil for an aftermarket 12V coil, you can throw away the pink wire and everything's at 12V, no worries, hook the module up either place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Sorry Pak but the picture is right. There's 12V at the ignition switch side of the pink wire, but only 6V at the other end, which is coil+. So the picture's right. If you hook the Pertronix to +coil you're only getting 6V . But, like you said, if you swap the Ford 6V coil for an aftermarket 12V coil, you can throw away the pink wire and everything's at 12V, no worries, hook the module up either place. I agree but I bet you I fried the coil when i did what i did so jumping the coil from the battery is bypassed it I bet? Well i got a new coil and its 6volts so I will run another wire to it tonite=) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spoofty 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 You already made a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and it ran? So the coil is probably fine, but you might have fried either the ignition wire or ignition switch. If the wire is bad you can just run regular wire and use a 12v coil. If you use a 6v coil and run a new wire make sure you use a ballast resistor. That will cut the volts down. By the way I sent you an email. I live about 1 1/2 hours from you. I'm not able to come help you right now but if your still having problem when I can I would be glad to help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 You already made a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and it ran? So the coil is probably fine, but you might have fried either the ignition wire or ignition switch. If the wire is bad you can just run regular wire and use a 12v coil. If you use a 6v coil and run a new wire make sure you use a ballast resistor. That will cut the volts down.By the way I sent you an email. I live about 1 1/2 hours from you. I'm not able to come help you right now but if your still having problem when I can I would be glad to help. Hey man thanks but I didn't see any emails but here it is for anyone danf1973@yahoo.com or 813.841.8434 Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Sorry Pak but the picture is right. There's 12V at the ignition switch side of the pink wire, but only 6V at the other end, which is coil+. So the picture's right. If you hook the Pertronix to +coil you're only getting 6V . But, like you said, if you swap the Ford 6V coil for an aftermarket 12V coil, you can throw away the pink wire and everything's at 12V, no worries, hook the module up either place. I never said the picture was wrong, I said that is what screws most people up. I just can't see why anyone would ever want to replace their stock points but keep a stock coil and run it that way, it makes no sense at all, to me anyway. Sure a stock coil is "OK" but why cut the potential of the unit in half just to save a few bucks? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spoofty 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Hey man thanks but I didn't see any emails but here it is for anyone danf1973@yahoo.com or 813.841.8434 Dan I just clicked on your name and tried to send you a pm but it said that I couldn't. So I clicked on it again then clicked on send email. So I don't know where it went. Do you have an old email linked to the forum? I live in Winter Haven. Maybe I'll see you at the Mustang show at MOSI next month. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 I never said the picture was wrong, I said that is what screws most people up. I just can't see why anyone would ever want to replace their stock points but keep a stock coil and run it that way, it makes no sense at all, to me anyway. Sure a stock coil is "OK" but why cut the potential of the unit in half just to save a few bucks? Hey I think i told you guys I had a Accel coil on there 12volts and bc I jumped the coil from the battery i figured it was the coil so I replaced it with a OEM style 6 volt. I know if I keep the OEM i need to run another 12vol to a blaster then the coil. The guy I spoke with suggested to run the wire from the electric choke to the coil first? So since it didnt start up with the OEM also i'm guessing wire issue? Either not ran correct or a short. I will try the electric choke first then if that doesnt work run the wires the same way as in the pic. If that doesnt work replace the wire from the ignition to the coil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanF1973 10 Report post Posted September 19, 2009 Ok update so I ran the coil and the Pertronix the way it should the car starts up on the first or 3rd turn thinking the ignition switch for sure. So now what is wrong is that the carb on the t-cable sticks causing it to stay back more and when at a stop its reving so high if to put into park or out it wants to jump till it lowers back down. I think that maybe the ball it connects to might be bent in some so that might be the case but it has some slack that i know Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
