Heavy surface rust...replace panel or can it be saved?

[helrazr70 10]

My car was stripped to bare metal and painted with cheap materials in September of 1991. It was immediately parked outside and left there until last month. (The car was only driven once on a new paintjob)

 

Anyway, the paint has come off and the hood,front fenders, and trunk lid have heavily pitted surface rust. The rust does not penetrate and isn't too terribly deep.

 

I was advised by a local resto shop that I should just replace the fenders--but they are FORD fenders, hood, and lid and the fenders only have a little rust through at the bottom. To me they look salvageable but will they be cost effective?

 

If I have them media blasted and epoxy sealed, will the rust ever come back? Can they be saved? ...or should I just replace them?

 

The hood has surface rust and would be a good candidate to save, but someone cut a 10"X12" hole under the scoop. (I was half tempted to patch it and then use a hood insulation mat)

 

He is a shot of the front of the car.

 

http://my.picresize.com/ITDYSV5A8D

 

What do you think?

[stangme428 33]

Its POR time baby --- http://www.por15.com/ im sure others will post also..:tongue_smilie:at the least its just surface rust ... i have some holes to fill...

[helrazr70 10]

Its POR time baby --- http://www.por15.com/ im sure others will post also..:tongue_smilie:at the least its just surface rust ... i have some holes to fill...

 

 

I saw your roof thread...

 

You think your roof is bad?

 

Here is mine:

 

http://my.picresize.com/IIKLAV8A86

 

Now, who has rust issues?

 

:tongue_smilie:

 

 

I have heard bad things about POR15 lifting after a while and I don't want to ruin a $5k paintjob (if I spend that much) due to bad prep...

Edited September 5, 2009 by helrazr70

[S code 69 13]

holy crap I've never seen rust like that, are you sure there isn't enough down in the pillars and sail panels to cause trouble? I'd check it out good before I put any money in it. was that a fastback with a vinyl roof or something?

[helrazr70 10]

holy crap I've never seen rust like that, are you sure there isn't enough down in the pillars and sail panels to cause trouble? I'd check it out good before I put any money in it. was that a fastback with a vinyl roof or something?

 

Yes, someone put a vinyl roof on it to cover some bondo work.

 

The upper rear 1/4's (sail panels) are shot. I will have to do full rears on each side. The underlying support structure is solid. (I have already cut the center of the roof out enough to inspect the supports)

 

Here is a pic of the upper rear 1/4 on the passenger side:

 

http://my.picresize.com/IQZM3JZ07P

 

 

The "A" pillars are ok as are the drip rails. It needs front torque boxes, floors, and pretty much every external body part. It is rough, but salvageable when you break it down into smaller projects.

 

First I am doing the roof skin then the left rear 1/4. After that I will do the left front torque box and left side floors. Once the left side is good I will move to the right side.

 

I may post a progress thread soon once I have more proress made.

[stangme428 33]

we have a winner!! wow ... that's a lot of rust... hmmm... not to good on the POR lifting... i know the metal prep process is very important for it to bond. we shall see once my vinyl top is removed...

 

I saw your roof thread...

 

You think your roof is bad?

 

Here is mine:

 

http://my.picresize.com/IIKLAV8A86

 

Now, who has rust issues?

 

:tongue_smilie:

 

 

I have heard bad things about POR15 lifting after a while and I don't want to ruin a $5k paintjob (if I spend that much) due to bad prep...

[S code 69 13]

Just for grins have you added up the cost of all the rust repair? I'm just wondering if it's cost effective given the cost of what you can by a rust free or nearly rust free ar for these days. I see solid fastback project cars from 5-10k all the time.

 

I'm not knocking your project I admire anyone who can save a car like that but I'm just wondering if you might not be able to save money with another car.

 

I'm far from a rust expert but my paint guy is from the midwest and he says POR is not anywhere near what people think it is. you have to replace or sandblast the rust off there isn't any majic cure. he prefers some stuff called Wurth, I've used it on a few tiny spots but it's only been a few years so I can't say how good it is.

[Fordrevhead 29]

surface rust like that I would think if you blast it, treat it, seal it good it will last... not forever though.

 

I have an 85 F150 that just missed the old Ford paint recall. Mine wasnt as bad as many, just the roof peeled off. B4 I got around to it, it looked like the top of your hood and fenders. I da'd it with 80 grit, two coats of extend, resanded to smooth with 320 and then DP90 (flat black) epoxy primed it... never painted it. It's been 10 years or more and while some rust has come through its no worse than some other spots on the truck.

[JBauer4363 10]

Holy Crap!!

 

I'm not knocking your project I admire anyone who can save a car like that but I'm just wondering if you might not be able to save money with another car.

 

+1

 

JBauer4363

[helrazr70 10]

I just got my shipment of parts from CJ Pony Parts this week! Both my doors were damaged and have to be returned, but the roof skin and full rear 1/4s are OK and will be mounted soon.

 

I have spent probably 20 hours over the past 2 days grinding and drilling spot welds for the roof skin and rear 1/4s. (time includes removing the rear 1/4 windows, weatherstipping, weatherstrip channels, front windshield, and back glass) What a pain in the butt that was!

 

I can't wait to see this car with a roof again! Even better will be seeing it with a roof and upper rear 1/4s that you can't see through! That vinyl roof really wrecked the upper 1/4s and roof!

 

I will post pics when I get finished. I am only attaching the roof and rear 1/4s with sheetmetal screws for now. I am moving soon and will disassemble later and patch some rust on the 1/4 support structure and sand/paint all the underbracing--which I don't have time for right now.

 

The car will be hauled to PA from TN and who knows how long it will be before I can get started on it again. I just want it to be whole again and I don't want to have to haul the parts. (the boxes are HUGE!)

 

Here are a couple of pics.

Edited January 20, 2010 by helrazr70

[helrazr70 10]

Another thought...

 

A few folks have said it would be easier to go pay $5-$10k for a rust free body. Tht is true--it would be easier. I just don't have $5-$10k.

 

I paid $1200 for the car.

 

I just paid a little over $1800 for:

 

new roof skin

2 new door shells

2 new full rear 1/4s

new deck lid spoiler

new spoiler reinforcement brackets

new chin spoiler

new driver door latch

 

I paid $260 for:

used rust free passenger seat riser

used rust free passenger door jamb panel (striker mounts to it)

used deluxe instrument cluster and clock panel

passenger bolt-in door glass (mine was broken)

 

I have about $3300 invested in this car including misc supplies. The car runs and is 100% complete. All I need for it is a driver shock tower, floors, floor supports, and one torque box and it will be rust free. So I will have a running rust free car for about $4k and my labor. It is difficult to find a complete, running, rust free '69 fastback for less than $5k.

 

I know it's a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, (more blood than tears--long story) but I think it will be worth it in the end with my limited budget due to my wife losing her job and me being transferred 800 miles away.

 

The bright side is that if I am not happy with my work I can always sell it and buy a rust free body to continue with. Every step is a step closer to completion or a higher sale price if I decide to buy another body.

 

Stay tuned for more progress pics! :)

[Max Power 74]

Two words:

 

Dynacorn!

 

 

LOL!

[Handegard 10]

Two words:

 

Thank you!

 

I'm going to go in my corner and just never whine about my rust problems again ;)

[DRASTiK 22]

NICE! Hope you can find the time to finish it before too long. Keep it up.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

if it's just surface rust then after media blasting just epoxy. make sure after media blasting you don't see pits of rust. if you do then use some naval jelly and keep working it with a little fine wire brush until the black pit or rust is out. the use of naval jelly and scrubbing is very time intensive. i've media blasted the underside of fenders but it took several hours because i held the nozzle about 18-24 inches away and kept it moving. that's not an efficient way to get a couple speckles of rust out but at least it doesn't warp the panel.

 

i'm not a POR 15 user nor would i ever consider using it on the top side of a panel (personally i wouldn't use it on the underside either). my dad used POR15 of an old heavy duty school bell several years ago. it's now covered with rust...

[LynnBob Mustang 10]

I'm far from a rust expert but my paint guy is from the midwest and he says POR is not anywhere near what people think it is. you have to replace or sandblast the rust off there isn't any majic cure.

 

 

A lot of people in my area have used POR 15 and another similar product called Chassis Saver with tremendous success that have had years of long lasting results and has not failed yet. I'm not sure why your paint guy thinks it isn't all that good.

My local Napa suggested the Chassis Saver product to me and they say it is better the POR 15. Also I know the guy that is head maintenance at our local Frito Lay plant and they use POR 15 on their equipment without fail and the same guy uses it on his back hoes and bulldozer at home, again without fail.

Short of not being properly applied and not following POR 15 instructions to the letter I have heard more good then bad about the product

Lynn

[Fordrevhead 29]

Buckeye, did he paint over the Por15? If left exposed it does fail rather quickly as all of the rust convertors or encapsulators do.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

not sure if he painted over the por. more than likely he did not. i'm guessing it must be sensitive to light if it needs topcoated.

[LynnBob Mustang 10]

The product does not need to be painted over, but it will discolor if left exposed to UV rays, but it's protection qualities are not supposed to be affected if left uncovered.

Lynn

[manley 13]

Awesome. I bet you are all kinds of excited now!