Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 4, 2009 Has anyone ever replaced just the turn signal cam VS the whole switch? How did it go? It's crazy how much the whole switch is, but then again I haven't troubleshot/removed the old one to see if that's the problem. Just leaning forward a bit before I jump into this one.:001_smile: Here is the cam I was thinking of: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=3802 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted September 4, 2009 I think Pak might have posted something on this very recently, but you can definitely get by with replacing the cam only if your turn signal lever isn't "clicking" into place correctly. The cam is very fragile and 40 years has a way of making it even more brittle. I replaced the entire switch as I was also having mysterious electrical issues in addition to the non-working signals. You're right, it's expensive. For me, the hardest part was pulling the wheel. It really didn't want to come off -- had to go buy a wheel puller that i'll probably never use again. Good luck, Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 4, 2009 It is pretty easy to remove, just held on with a couple of push nuts really. You pretty much can not remove a steering wheel without a puller and not risk damage but you don't have to buy one. Any Autozone type store has this on their free rental list, you get your deposit back when you return it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted September 4, 2009 Renting tools...man, I wish I would have thought to ask that. I have two "one-time" tools in my collection now: steering wheel puller and spring compressor! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah and technically it's not even a rental, it's a free loan since you get the full deposit back upon return. Really it's a brilliant idea on their part because every time somone would buy one of these one-time tools they would likely try to keep it clean and return it anyway, then they have to mark it down to resell it, this cuts out the BS. The list of tools they have is quite large actually but they don't advertise it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) I ended up buying the entire switch to fix my inop turn signals and now I need to transfer the connector to the new switch. I went to Advance and Autozone to buy the tool to remove the old wires from the connector and they don't carry them. I've seen them online, but for the life of me can't find one now. Anyone know what the official name of this tool is so I can search for it? Or is there a home remedy for releasing these wires from the old connector? Thanks. Edited October 25, 2009 by LFugate spelling Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RestoRod 10 Report post Posted October 26, 2009 You can use a small paper clip to remove the pins. Look in the connector with a light and you'll see a small tab the protrudes on one side. Push in the tab with the unfolded paper clip and gently pull on the wire at the same time. It worked well for me when I replace mine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted October 26, 2009 Not knowing there *was* a special tool, I used a precision screw-driver (about the width of a paper clip!) and was able to coax each wire out as Resto describes. Fair warning: be very careful to match up the colors carefully! I had reversed two and all hell broke loose. Good luck! Any reason why you didn't just buy the cam? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tray bright 10 Report post Posted October 26, 2009 Just replaced mine, wasn't bad at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks guys, great suggestions! I'll give them a shot. Tom, I replaced the entire switch because you mentioned that the cam was only a fix for a turn signal that wasn't clicking into place. My issue is no turn signals. Thanks again for the help! Still haven't re-attacked the wiper switch, I have it on ignore for now. Leonard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted October 31, 2009 Geez these electrical problems are killing me. I replaced the switch and the turn signals still don't work. The blue wire in the connector powers the turn signals and I have power there until I turn on the turn signal, then I lose power. If I jump the red/white (emergency flashers) wire into the blue wire the signals work no problem. I have swapped the emergency flasher with the turn signal flasher with no luck. They both have the same part number #552 and Advance Auto lists both emergency and turn signal as 552, is this correct? Also, in the diagram the red/white wire is black/red, but mine is white/red. Is it normal for Ford to change the wire colors different than the diagram? There is a junction in the diagram that appears to be where the turn signal gets its power, but I can't find that junction. It appears by looking at the actual wires that the turn signals get it's power from the blue wire that runs to the flasher and comes out the other side orange. This orange wire is connected to a junction that has 4 or 5 wires coming out of it (one of those coming from the washer switch which could be related to my washer pump not working). Any ideas? This is getting on my last nerve:surrender: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted November 1, 2009 I'll crack open my wiring diagram tomorrow and see if I have something intelligent to say. In the meantime, you're 100% sure you replaced all 9 wires correctly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted November 1, 2009 Yep, 100%. Thanks Tom, you've been a big help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted November 1, 2009 (edited) I had a friend over today who is fairly good with wiring. He didn't have time for in-depth troubleshooting, but we did notice something else today. The wiring harness above the radio gets pretty warm when the ignition is warm, but the others stay cool. This indicates a short right? If so, would I expect to find the short in that wire bundle? Both the blue and orange/white wire that connect to the flasher run through that harness. BTW, I installed a new flasher just to be sure with no luck. Edited November 1, 2009 by LFugate spelling Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 I finally fixed my turn signals. I was at my wits end and was ready to run a new wire, but I thought let me go back and check the basics. When I bought the car first thing I did was check all the fuses and all were good. Having power to the switch also made me think all was fine with them. I ended up removing the fuse for the turn signals and using a small brush scrubed the contacts in the fuse box and sprayed it all out with electrical cleaner. Reinstalled the fuse and the signals started working:clap: I'm frustrated at the time and money I spent, but pretty happy they are fixed. It gave me a chance to learn all the wiring in the car too:whistling: Now on to the next project. Thanks to everyone for the help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 Congrats on conquering your problem! How very satisfying that is! You know, I had a similar experience about 1.8 years ago when I was wrestling with my boy's coupe's electrical nightmare. Simply removing the fuses, cleaning out the panel, and replacing good ones solved *some* of my problems. I did eventually need the turn signal cam to defeat the last gremlin. Great job sticking with it. Now you're an expert! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmystang 13 Report post Posted December 29, 2009 The heat you feel in the wiring loom with the ignition on is the resistor wire which gives the coil about 8v in the on position & is bypassed in the start position. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites