2whitp21 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2009 Hi all, I was wondering if someone can help me. I have a 1969 Grande e with 5.3 v8 351W motor and a auto FMX gear box. The problem i have is that every time i put my foot on the brake the engine cuts out. This is particularly annoying as to get the engine into gear i have to press the brake thus the car is unusable. Can anyone advise what is the most likley cause of this. I have been told that it might be the master cylinder/booster. but no one can be certain. has anyone here had a similar problem or any idea on how to resolve this issue. Many Thanks Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2whitp21 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2009 Hi all, I was wondering if someone can help me. I have a 1969 Grande e with 5.3 v8 351W motor and a auto FMX gear box. The problem i have is that every time i put my foot on the brake the engine cuts out. This is particularly annoying as to get the engine into gear i have to press the brake thus the car is unusable. Can anyone advise what is the most likley cause of this. I have been told that it might be the master cylinder/booster. but no one can be certain. has anyone here had a similar problem or any idea on how to resolve this issue. Many Thanks Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Sounds like a vacuum leak in the booster. Take the hose off to the booster & plug the hose. The step on the brake pedal, bet it won't stall. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Sounds like a vacuum leak in the booster. Take the hose off to the booster & plug the hose. The step on the brake pedal, bet it won't stall. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 If a booster - what a PITA to install. By a good one- not the cheaper $100 ones as the quality sucks. I went through two of them! I picked my last one up from: http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion%20Kits%20HOME%20index.htm.html ......the only problem I had was the actuator rod was to long... See my other posts but thanks to the forum -FIXED! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 If a booster - what a PITA to install. By a good one- not the cheaper $100 ones as the quality sucks. I went through two of them! I picked my last one up from: http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion%20Kits%20HOME%20index.htm.html ......the only problem I had was the actuator rod was to long... See my other posts but thanks to the forum -FIXED! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Wow...I'm having the exact same problem right now. I just ordered a new Booster/Master cylinder set. Should be here tomorrow...time to tear the dash out again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Wow...I'm having the exact same problem right now. I just ordered a new Booster/Master cylinder set. Should be here tomorrow...time to tear the dash out again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cupid 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Agreed. Get a couple of looooong extensions and an air ratchet. It'll make your job easier.:biggrin: Oh, I think 351 are 5.8 liters. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cupid 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Agreed. Get a couple of looooong extensions and an air ratchet. It'll make your job easier.:biggrin: Oh, I think 351 are 5.8 liters. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Actually 351 Cubic Inches = 5.751859 Liters :whistling: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted May 4, 2009 Actually 351 Cubic Inches = 5.751859 Liters :whistling: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted May 5, 2009 "give me a beer"... agreed, don't pull the dash - lots of beer needed as your back will be hurting for a few days Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted May 5, 2009 "give me a beer"... agreed, don't pull the dash - lots of beer needed as your back will be hurting for a few days Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 6, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Got the Booster/MC out without having to take the dash out, my back still hurts :scared:. 4 bolts (2 of these were never tightened all the way down) by the steering column on the inside the car and 1 at the top right of the booster on the firewall engine side. There was a LOT of fluid in my booster....it was like half way full. There was some "liquid rust" in there too. I'm going to flush the brake lines out to make sure I get any residual water and "liquid rust" out of the system before I install the new Booster/MC. What a pain in the :asshole: to get that thing out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 6, 2009 You dont have to pull the dash apart to change the booster.. You can do everything on your back under the dash.. Get a partner to help you out and it will be a snap.. Just watch out for brake fluid, that stuff will eat through your paint quicker than you can say "give me a beer"... Got the Booster/MC out without having to take the dash out, my back still hurts :scared:. 4 bolts (2 of these were never tightened all the way down) by the steering column on the inside the car and 1 at the top right of the booster on the firewall engine side. There was a LOT of fluid in my booster....it was like half way full. There was some "liquid rust" in there too. I'm going to flush the brake lines out to make sure I get any residual water and "liquid rust" out of the system before I install the new Booster/MC. What a pain in the :asshole: to get that thing out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 6, 2009 Oh...I also took the MC and Booster apart while they were still in the car so I didn't even have to take my 1 piece export brace off when I yanked them out. I did have to remove the hood hinge spring above the booster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xsuperjoex 10 Report post Posted May 6, 2009 Oh...I also took the MC and Booster apart while they were still in the car so I didn't even have to take my 1 piece export brace off when I yanked them out. I did have to remove the hood hinge spring above the booster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
