rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 Purchased my car almost 3 years ago. Finally have some extra $$ to start the resto. After pulling out the interior, I discovered that the passenger rear floor had been buckled due to rear being hit and poorly repaired. I had the trunk floor cut and repaired, along with the tail light panel, and have started stripping. Hoping to have the floor repaired and rest of car stripped and body work done this month. 2 rosalindet16 and stephanienl69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 Purchased my car almost 3 years ago. Finally have some extra $$ to start the resto. After pulling out the interior, I discovered that the passenger rear floor had been buckled due to rear being hit and poorly repaired. I had the trunk floor cut and repaired, along with the tail light panel, and have started stripping. Hoping to have the floor repaired and rest of car stripped and body work done this month. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 Looking good, RD. Keep the pictures coming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkskinsfan 19 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 Looking good, RD. Keep the pictures coming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 21 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 since I see you replaced the tailight panel, I have a quick question about the repro sheetmetal. Does the repro tailight panel include all of the required brackets to mount the tailights to? I'm building a 69 trans am clone out of a rough 70 sportsroof, and am wondering if I will need to source pieces from a parts car, or if the repop panel will have everything I need when it comes to mounting the lights. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 21 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 since I see you replaced the tailight panel, I have a quick question about the repro sheetmetal. Does the repro tailight panel include all of the required brackets to mount the tailights to? I'm building a 69 trans am clone out of a rough 70 sportsroof, and am wondering if I will need to source pieces from a parts car, or if the repop panel will have everything I need when it comes to mounting the lights. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 It doesnt include the brackets to mount it to the floor of the trunk panels. I will look at the backside to see what brackets it has for the lights and em tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 It doesnt include the brackets to mount it to the floor of the trunk panels. I will look at the backside to see what brackets it has for the lights and em tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dennyb68 11 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 The light mounts are in the repro taillight panel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dennyb68 11 Report post Posted April 15, 2009 The light mounts are in the repro taillight panel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 21 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 The light mounts are in the repro taillight panel Cool, thanks for the help. It's been fun trying to track down all of the little pieces to putting this project together... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 21 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 The light mounts are in the repro taillight panel Cool, thanks for the help. It's been fun trying to track down all of the little pieces to putting this project together... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 Making some great progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 Making some great progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 20, 2009 Finished the stipping this week. I had it soda blasted, and was very pleased with the results. Leaves the surface in good shape, and doesn't damage plastic, stainless, etc. Happily, very little additional rust underneath the 3 different repaints. Just at the bottom of the doors on both sides. Shouldn't be too much of a problem to patch. I have a question for anyone else who has used soda- other than the obvious need to get it all out of nooks and crannies before painting, do you have any other suggestions for prep? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 20, 2009 Finished the stipping this week. I had it soda blasted, and was very pleased with the results. Leaves the surface in good shape, and doesn't damage plastic, stainless, etc. Happily, very little additional rust underneath the 3 different repaints. Just at the bottom of the doors on both sides. Shouldn't be too much of a problem to patch. I have a question for anyone else who has used soda- other than the obvious need to get it all out of nooks and crannies before painting, do you have any other suggestions for prep? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 20, 2009 Engine bay pics after stripping. Used soda on most of it and glass on some of the rest. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 20, 2009 Engine bay pics after stripping. Used soda on most of it and glass on some of the rest. 1 stephanienl69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jadeezra 11 Report post Posted April 29, 2009 Man that soda blasting sure does turn out nice! Looking great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jadeezra 11 Report post Posted April 29, 2009 Man that soda blasting sure does turn out nice! Looking great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted April 30, 2009 A rotisserie, the sand blasting hood, a Tyvek suit, gloves, a high pressure air hose and a pressure washer is the only way to get that crap out. I have worked on cars years later and had media fall out. I have read Stripco says to wash with water. I would check with the particular soda manufacturer as it could really ruin your year. I suspect it depends on the pH of the particular stuff for one. I have not yet soda blasted but I have done my fair share of black beauty on rusty areas where warping was the least of my problems, lol. I cant back up any of the following, but I was interested so I did a search and I yanked this from a body paint forum (please let us know what u discover): "Well I contacted Sherwin Williams Automotive paint and this is what Rose Gasper, Customer Service Rep, had to say. "Application of a primer with minimal acid congretration such as etching fillers, vinyl wash, or metal preps, will react with sobium bicarbonare. This will emit carbon dioxide potentially causing blistering of the paint and then total delamination of the paint and undercoats". Then Rose Gasper wrote the following steps must be adhered to. Observe recommendations specified by the company that produces the soda and the maufacturer of the equipment used. Then before applying any refinish materials, thoroughly clean the surface with soap and water, preferably with a pressure washer, then dry. The third step is to inspect the surface for any white residue. If a residue is found repeat the second step. The last thing is after the surface is thoroughly clean, and no residue is found, follow manufactures specific recommendations for bare substrates. I hope this answers any questions you may have." The preceeding post in the same thread stated: "Warm water and vinegar will remove the residue. I add in a red scotchbrite and have had great results with small parts. I havn't done a full car yet. I also don't know any paint company that is going to warranty a paint job. When I was painting full time we had a problem with a color and called the jobber, they did replace the paint but wouldn't cover our time wasted." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted April 30, 2009 A rotisserie, the sand blasting hood, a Tyvek suit, gloves, a high pressure air hose and a pressure washer is the only way to get that crap out. I have worked on cars years later and had media fall out. I have read Stripco says to wash with water. I would check with the particular soda manufacturer as it could really ruin your year. I suspect it depends on the pH of the particular stuff for one. I have not yet soda blasted but I have done my fair share of black beauty on rusty areas where warping was the least of my problems, lol. I cant back up any of the following, but I was interested so I did a search and I yanked this from a body paint forum (please let us know what u discover): "Well I contacted Sherwin Williams Automotive paint and this is what Rose Gasper, Customer Service Rep, had to say. "Application of a primer with minimal acid congretration such as etching fillers, vinyl wash, or metal preps, will react with sobium bicarbonare. This will emit carbon dioxide potentially causing blistering of the paint and then total delamination of the paint and undercoats". Then Rose Gasper wrote the following steps must be adhered to. Observe recommendations specified by the company that produces the soda and the maufacturer of the equipment used. Then before applying any refinish materials, thoroughly clean the surface with soap and water, preferably with a pressure washer, then dry. The third step is to inspect the surface for any white residue. If a residue is found repeat the second step. The last thing is after the surface is thoroughly clean, and no residue is found, follow manufactures specific recommendations for bare substrates. I hope this answers any questions you may have." The preceeding post in the same thread stated: "Warm water and vinegar will remove the residue. I add in a red scotchbrite and have had great results with small parts. I havn't done a full car yet. I also don't know any paint company that is going to warranty a paint job. When I was painting full time we had a problem with a color and called the jobber, they did replace the paint but wouldn't cover our time wasted." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 30, 2009 Well, all I can say is that this all doesnt sound good. (Maybe I should have posted the question before I had it done......) Anyway, thanks for the info. I will do some more research and post my progress (or lack of same) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 30, 2009 Well, all I can say is that this all doesnt sound good. (Maybe I should have posted the question before I had it done......) Anyway, thanks for the info. I will do some more research and post my progress (or lack of same) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted June 29, 2012 Well, it's been a while since i've updated my progress, because there really hasn't been any. (Three kids weddings in three years will do that). Finally got the projuct to the point where I can work on the mods to the suspension, steering, and brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites