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1BAD351

Front Suspension Recommendations

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<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///D:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5COwner%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"></o:smarttagtype><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"></o:smarttagtype><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; text-underline:single;} a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple; text-decoration:underline; text-underline:single;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Hey guys my 69’s front suspension has really seen better days and I think it’s about time to restore it. I want to replace everything because it’s all original as far as I know, I want to go with the stiffer 1†lowering springs and I will be performing the <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Shelby</st1:place></st1:city> drop as well. I was looking at this kit, it seems to cover everything:

<o:p> </o:p>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-MUSTANG-FRONT-PERFORMANCE-SUSPENSION-STEERING-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ140300056791QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

<o:p> </o:p>

Now my car was originally a 250 I6 and now has a 393w in it, will a V8 suspension setup bolt up to my car if it hasn’t been converted at all yet? What kits would you guys recommend to use, I’m not made of money but I don’t mind spending a little bit to get some really good parts on the car. Do you guys recommend stock rubber bushings or are there some poly bushings or something that are better? Ride quality is not of any concern at all.

<o:p> </o:p>

Thanks in advance

<o:p> </o:p>

Nick

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that looks like a good way to go. no worries about it being a six popper car. all 69's used the same suspension bits and the 250 cars already had the 5 lug suspension setup. your plan sounds good. the only thing i would really recommend would be a set of Opentracker roller perches but you can always upgrade to to those later if you want. a set of a heim jointed style strut rods would be another good upgrade but again you can do that later on.

 

next you probably need to do rear springs and wheels and tires so you can tuck the wheels under the fenders, especially if you are going to do the shelby drop and upgrade the front end.

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the only thing i would really recommend would be a set of Opentracker roller perches but you can always upgrade to to those later if you want. a set of a heim jointed style strut rods would be another good upgrade but again you can do that later on.

 

How exactly would that help me out, why are they better then stock and what would they do for me? I have never heard of that stuff before, I mean I know what they are but never heard of that aftermarket stuff. Also where can I get that stuff? If I'm taking everything apart, I'd rather do it all at once.

 

next you probably need to do rear springs and wheels and tires so you can tuck the wheels under the fenders, especially if you are going to do the shelby drop and upgrade the front end.

 

 

Yes I know, I really need some skinnier tires and wheels that are not so deep, but I love those things they look so nice with the reversed deep dish wheel. That will probably be addressed though when my current tires wear out. The wheels are 15x10's with a 3.5" backspacing, I could probably get a 4" back spaced wheel and a 275 and tuck them in there. I also want to go wider up front, right now I only have a 205, id like to get a 225 or even a 235 if I can make it fit. Also what do you recommend for the rear, just a new set of leaf springs?

Edited by 1BAD351

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Well here is what he recommended for me:

 

1" drop template - Free

17/32 drill bit - Free

ORP T-Shirt - Free

1/4" Poly coil spring insulators - $20

560 1" drop coil springs - $80

1 1/8" front sway bar kit - $110

Street Upper arms - $199

Street Lower arms - $140

Roller spring perches - $175 Forum member discount

Strut rod bushings - $30

Steering kit with roller idler arm - $265 ... All USA made Moog parts

KYB Front shocks - $80

Grab-A-Track rear shocks - $56

 

It is definitly a lot more then I had in mind to spend, but I am definitly a big fan of American made parts, and moog never put me in a bad place so I do like those parts, and I am sure will like anything else he sells. What do you guys think, sound like a good setup? Do I really need all of this stuff? The only thing on the list I know I don't need are the KYB front shocks, as I already have them. However I have air shocks in the rear and I want those puppys gone before I crack the mounts, so I do need the rear shocks.

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Well here is what he recommended for me:

 

1" drop template - Free

17/32 drill bit - Free

ORP T-Shirt - Free

1/4" Poly coil spring insulators - $20

560 1" drop coil springs - $80

1 1/8" front sway bar kit - $110

Street Upper arms - $199

Street Lower arms - $140

Roller spring perches - $175 Forum member discount

Strut rod bushings - $30

Steering kit with roller idler arm - $265 ... All USA made Moog parts

KYB Front shocks - $80

Grab-A-Track rear shocks - $56

 

It is definitly a lot more then I had in mind to spend, but I am definitly a big fan of American made parts, and moog never put me in a bad place so I do like those parts, and I am sure will like anything else he sells. What do you guys think, sound like a good setup? Do I really need all of this stuff? The only thing on the list I know I don't need are the KYB front shocks, as I already have them. However I have air shocks in the rear and I want those puppys gone before I crack the mounts, so I do need the rear shocks.

 

you can't go wrong using ORP parts, and John is a great guy who will stand behind his parts

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It seems like everyone replaces everything when they do the front suspension upgrade/rebuild. Is this really necessary?

 

My car has the classic play in the steering wheel (wheel turns back and forth a few inches with no movement in the tires) and the car likes to drift out on the highway at speed. I'm thinking most of this comes from the worn out stock steering box. The only other trouble areas i see are the boots are shot on the upper ball joints (rusty inside), so i know they need to be replaced, and my shocks seem to be shot as well.

 

Do i really need a new idler arm, tirods, lower arms, bushings, etc? They don't seem to have any play, so will new parts make any "real difference," or is it just a precautionary thing?

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That's what I'm trying to figure out haha, but considering that the suspension is 40 years old, new parts are not going to hurt it. Bushings especially should be replaced. My steering is actually very tight and in good shape, but I think the rest of my suspension is shot/tweaked. My guess is if you replace everything with new, and do the shelby drop you will feel a significant difference, not to mention the fact that if you replace everything with well made american parts you will probably never have to replace any of it ever again (short of maybe suspention bushings and shocks, but evn that may last).

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Hey 1BAD351, what did you end up going with Suspension wise?

 

Since the motor's now pulled in my car, i got a real close look at my suspension. Yikes! Everything is worn/old/shot!

 

I went with a complete suspension from John at Opentracker, complete with roller perches/idler arm, camber kit, & shelby drop template. Very nice and helpful guy.

 

I was originally thinking of going with the off shore repro's from Laurel Mountain Mustang, a whole kit was about $900 shipped, john came in at around $1160 shipped, but that's with quality Moog parts, shelby drop, camber kit, and roller perches/idler arm, so i felt Opentracker was the best option and piece of mind!

 

John doesn't recommend the rear sway bar either as he said it's not much of a difference. I appreciate his honest advice instead of just trying to sell me parts i don't need! I definitelly say give John a call if you havent already.

 

The only thing i'm not replacing is the steering box (what i originally thought was the problem). John seemed to think that because i had a few inches of play in the steering wheel while driving (under load), but not when you were stopped, that the problem was all the other warn parts and my box may be in good shape.

 

With the engine out it would be so easy to swap the box out, but at $400 aditional cost, i'll take my chances and John's advice.

 

A side note: My steering box has a metal stamped tag coming off one of the top bolts. I wonder if this is factory or it had been replaced already? Anyone have any thoughts on that?

 

Hope this helps!

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Hey 1BAD351, what did you end up going with Suspension wise?

 

Since the motor's now pulled in my car, i got a real close look at my suspension. Yikes! Everything is worn/old/shot!

 

I went with a complete suspension from John at Opentracker, complete with roller perches/idler arm, camber kit, & shelby drop template. Very nice and helpful guy.

 

I was originally thinking of going with the off shore repro's from Laurel Mountain Mustang, a whole kit was about $900 shipped, john came in at around $1160 shipped, but that's with quality Moog parts, shelby drop, camber kit, and roller perches/idler arm, so i felt Opentracker was the best option and piece of mind!

 

John doesn't recommend the rear sway bar either as he said it's not much of a difference. I appreciate his honest advice instead of just trying to sell me parts i don't need! I definitelly say give John a call if you havent already.

 

The only thing i'm not replacing is the steering box (what i originally thought was the problem). John seemed to think that because i had a few inches of play in the steering wheel while driving (under load), but not when you were stopped, that the problem was all the other warn parts and my box may be in good shape.

 

With the engine out it would be so easy to swap the box out, but at $400 aditional cost, i'll take my chances and John's advice.

 

A side note: My steering box has a metal stamped tag coming off one of the top bolts. I wonder if this is factory or it had been replaced already? Anyone have any thoughts on that?

 

Hope this helps!

 

I got the same quote IIRC and I don't have anywhere near that much money to spend on my toy right now, so I haven't bought anything yet, but will probably go with everything he said. I also want to do a staggered rear shock setup, and I already have the rear sway bar so it should be a nice setup once it's done. I am currently looking for a 98-02 camaro or trans am to part out this summer because I want the t-56 out of it to start fabbing up stuff to swap that in. No one seems to have any really good info on that swap, most seem to go with a tko, so it's going to be a bit of work, but I'll get it done eventually.

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I went with the Laurel Mountain suspension kit and it worked great. I did however install the Randall's Rack and pinion setup. But the Kit I got from Laurel Mountain was easy to set up. I am just about to do the rears but the front was easy.

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"Roller spring perches - $175 Forum member discount"

 

Im planning on buying them too. 1BAD351, what forum qualifies for the discount? Because on the ORP website, this forum isnt listed.

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Any forum. I'll get in touch with the web master and add this site to the list, sorry about that.

 

That $175 price includes shipping to all 50 states. You do have to send us an email to get it.

 

opentracker@sbcglobal.net

 

 

Edit: For $10 more, we ship them anywhere on the planet.

 

I'm glad this just popped up again from an old thread, I have been wanting to do this upgrade for some time now and it would seem now is the time with the extra discount. You can expect an email from me some time next week John!

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