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Remote mirror removal

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I don't think you can without pulling those cable out of the slots, it wasn't intended to be taken apart. I've done it before with limited success , if your lucky nothing will break.

 

if all you need to do is replace the glass that's held in by sticky so you can pry or break it out of the backing plate and replace it. the only problem is I haven't found anyone who repops the mirror glass, I can't believe you can get it for about every car on earth but a Mustang but if it's made I can't find it. I'm going to have some cut I guess.

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Thanks for the input yes, it was just for a mirror glass replacement at this stage, however I do want to remove the mirror and housing later when I paint, The hassle late last night was the front screw would turn but not come out so t tried to remove just the mirror...

It's hard to find a company to cut and shape replacemt mirror glass, I did see one set on ebay once, should have bought them, spares always come in handy

I will try and coax the front screw out tomorrow

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Those screws are nutserts every '69 I've seen, so if it turns but won't come out you have to get some little vice grips on the nutsert inside the door and hold it. or you can drill the head off the screw, either way it's a pain.

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I just made a stiff paper pattern of the shape of my mirrors and took it to a glass shop and they made me replacements for both sides. I will just put a few dabs of silicon on them when it comes time to install them.

PS. The reason for both sides is that I made the mirrors electrically adjustable by integrating electric servos from a donar car from the wrecking yard. I also put the turn signals in them, will post pics tomorrow.

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Here are some pics of my electric mirrors for my '70FB. The electric servos came from a late model Acura (these were some of the smaller ones that I found). The hardest part was mounting the servos to the existing sport mirror housings. The driver side was really easy because they have two mounting bosses on either side already for the original mirror pivot mount. The driver's side was pretty complicated because a lack of mounting point. I cut some aluminum block down and got it to fit the same as the driver's side. The first pic shows the driver's side with the servo below and the new mirror below that. Notice the "V" shaped led bulbs on the left of center on the servo. I installed the leds by drilling holes thru the plastic mirror base. The mirrors has matching holes scraped thru the mirror backing to match up with the leds. The second pic is the backside of the servo. Third pic is the passenger side with servo installed. The last is showing the back of the mirror with the reflective scraped off to line up with the leds.

p22800011.jpg

 

w3072.png

 

 

 

p22800021.jpg

 

p22800031.jpg

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Edited by Cruzzar

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Cruzzar, do you remember what year and model of Acura the servos came from or at least an approximation? also how did you tie the LED wiring into the turn signals? any other need to knows or pitfalls to this conversion? i've been planning on doing a this conversion myself, i found a write-up somewhere that used 80's escort GT servos and a mazda control switch. i plan on using the control switch from a mid 80's lincoln town car which should be a direct bolt on for the stock 69/70 mustang remote mirror bezel on the door panel. at one time i had planned on using the switch from a 90's monte carlo because the shape is very similar to the mirror remote from a 68/69 ranchero/torino so it's not a big stretch of the imagination to think that mirrors from one of those were used, but i've since found the town car switches and they would be a much better choice for a mustang or cougar. if anyone wants to do the power mirrors for a torino/ranchero then the monte carlo switch might be a better choice.

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Bnickel, I don't remember exactly what year, somewhere early to mid 90's. I would not be suprised to find the same servos on the Honda Accord or Civic. I will disassemble one of the servos tomorrow and get you some pics of how I mounted the leds. The led wires and servo wires will both fit down the existing hole in the driver's side mirror base where the control cables used to be. I had to hollow out the mirror support base on the passanger side for the wires to get into the door. I'll take pics of the passanger side to show you how I mounted the servo. You might have an easier way of mounting the servo on that side. Driver's side was easy to mount, just two pieces of flat stock aluminum. Let me say doing this conversion requires you to do some surgery on the internals of the mirror housings that will not allow you to return to the stock set up. I will be using the Acura's mirror control switch and I am mounting it in the center counsel behind the shifter. The center counsel and seats are out of a '88 Tbird Tourbo coupe.

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i may have an easier way to mount the passenger side as a matter of fact. since my car didn't come with the sport mirrors i'd have to add them anyway so i'll probably just get the mirror head from 70's granada or gran torino, etc that came with the passenger side remote mirror as it will already have the mounting points in it. 69/70 cougars used specific bases that weren't on any other cars so i'lll have to use the bases from a 69/70 and probably just the whole driver side assembly then just add the passenger side remote head piece and i'll be in business. since all sport mirors used the same head pieces (different only if the were remote or non-remote) anyway, it doesn't matter what year you get them from as long as you have the correct bases for whatever car you're working on. i think with the sport mirrors and the town car switch it should be a completely stock ford "looking" installation and will go with all the other "power goody" mods (power windows, door locks, trunk lock, etc) i plan on for the cougar perfectly. thanks for the write-up :thumbup:

 

by the way speaking of power goodies and power windows specifically, i'm planning on using 60's T-bird window switches because they are period correct looking, round for all but the driver side and will fit the stock window crank holes with almost mods, i will have to trim the door panels slightly for the area where the backing clips attach but the original window cranks will cover those cuts perfectly shoould i ever decide to change back, then i'd only need to repair or repace the driver door panel. the same switch for the passnger windows could also be used on the driver side but you'd have to have some kind of switch in the console or somewhere to switch to the other windows to be able to use that switch to control all of the windows. plus the driver side T-bird switch bezel also has a "lock" inscription on it that was originally for window locks to prevent any of the other windows from being rolled down from any position other than the drivers, that would make a great position to put a power door lock switch :biggrin:

 

here's the window switches i'm talking about

 

driver side

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/61-62-63-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-MASTER-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ150327921943QQihZ005QQcategoryZ10076QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

all others

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-REAR-WINDOW-SWITCHES-AND-BEZELS_W0QQitemZ400033842325QQihZ027QQcategoryZ140731QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

driver side for you fastback guys

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-1960-Ford-Thunderbird-power-window-switch-housing_W0QQitemZ350167482322QQihZ022QQcategoryZ42606QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

Edited by bnickel

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I had heard the Granada's had remote adj. mirrors that could be used on a Mustang but I have not actually seen one. If they have the same provisions for mounting as the driver's side, it will make this installation a lot easier. Pics on how to mount the leds tomorrow.

Your research on the various switches should really make your Cougar period perfect!

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I found my receipt for the mirrors and they came off of a '87 Acura. Again, Honda might be the same. I bought the led's from Radio Shack. They are 3v, 15mA, part #276-026. Because they are 3v you must do something with the 12v so it doesn't burn out the bulbs. I was told to put a 330 ohm resistor in line with the leds (Radio Shack part #271-1113) and this would help them survive (electricity is not one of my stronger points). Wire the led's in parallel and attatch the resistor to one of the leads and your done. Remember that an led has an specific + and specific - wire. If you hook up the negative wire to the positive feed, nothing happens. Reverse it and it works fine. You won't short out the bulb, it just doesn't work.

To mount the led's you have to disconnect the mirror mounting base from the servo motors by unscrewing a screw and then carefully unpluging the two spherical ball mounts. To pop the balls loose I used a small diameter pin punch to push on the ball thru the existing hole on the mirror backing plate. When pulling up to seperate the ball from its socket you might hear a sound like plastic gears stripping. This the quick adjustment built into the mirrors. When mounted on the car you physically move the mirrors to an approximate adjustment and then fine tune them with the electrical control.

You have to cut down the stock mirror mounting plates to fit into the sport mirror housings. Get the servos mounted first and then cut to fit. Mount the led's by drilling holes into the plastic mirror mounting plate in the shape you want. I used a number drill that allowed the led to press fit into the hole.

I made an aluminum template that is a duplicate of the stock mustang mirror and drilled holes to match the led pattern. I gave this template to the glass shop to cut mirrors (one left and ond right side). I also used this template to remover the mirror coating from the back side.

If the Granada mirror is like you say it is (with the two mounting bosses like the driver's side) then this will be a pretty easy mod.

Here are some additional pics of what I had to do. I hope it helps.

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p3010004.jpg

p3010006.jpg

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p3010010.jpg

p3010012.jpg

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Cruzzer, Great work with the remote......I had a set of bonnet mounted sports mirrors in my younger years which indicator lamps mounted inside of them behind a louvre which worked great, they manual adjust only

 

Those screws are nutserts every '69 I've seen, so if it turns but won't come out you have to get some little vice grips on the nutsert inside the door and hold it. or you can drill the head off the screw, either way it's a pain.

 

I managed to get hold of the nutsert with a pair of long nosed pliers and with a bit of effort and not too much pain or lost skin, removed the front screw, and removed the mirror control unit and cables in one piece.

I,ve cleaned up the mirror bases and dropped them into the glass cutter today,

The pass side nutserts have been overtightened and mushroomed outwards, (now I know why the mirror was loose) . Is there any way that this can be fixed without drilling out the nutsert straighening the panel and installing a new nutsert? Are these nutsert still sold?

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