Dynacorn Bodies

[EastYorkStang 63]

Has anyone used on of these yet? They just released the '69 body and I am curious about getting one.

[rwcstang 201]

hrm not sure about the bodies, but im really interested in the parts they will sell quarter panels, fenders etc...

[S code 69 13]

I put a new dynacorn hood and fenders on, I guess I'd say they're ok, not great. if I didn't have as much into shipping as I did the parts themselves I'd have sent them back and gone another direction.

 

I looked at a body at a show, again ok but not great. the body makes no sense to me, for that price you can by a driving rust free car here on the west coast and have a real car.

[PaleRider 12]

May make more sense for us folks in the snow belt where rust free is pretty much unheard of. If I had a donor 69/70 parts car - I seriously consider it.

[S code 69 13]

I think the only Mustang body they make is the '67 fastback isn't it? but in all seriousness if I were one of you rust belt guys I'd come out west to buy a car and ship it back.

 

I bought my S code Mach 1 for $7000 and the only rust it had was a couple little spots on the floorboards ,I also did a little patch in the lower rear 1/4's where the trunk had leaked and kept the junk in the drop offs wet. granted I'm doing a full restoration but that's about half what the Dynacorn body I saw cost so I don't see the economics in it. nearly rust free project cars are common here and not that expensive, even with shipping you're still way money ahead and you have a classic rather than a Tiwanmobile when you're done.

 

Any of you guys who are interested should watch the Craigslist in Oregon, Idaho ect and you'd be surprised what comes on . that doesn't mean ofcourse they're rust free, but you know what to ask for to find out. just my 2 bits.

[Pakrat 1,043]

So if I have a friend looking to make a full blown race or drag car or a higly modified pro car I should tell him to skip the new Dynacorn body and go out west and find a nice original survivor car to chop up and bastardize? Is that the sound economical advice I should give him?

[S code 69 13]

I guess if saving money is sound economical advice, yes.

 

What part of $15,000 for a Tiwanmobile shell is better than a $7,000 rolling rust free '67-69 Mustang fastback?

[wantahertzdonut 10]

I'd like to see this $7k rust free fastback.

 

Sure the economy is bad, but nobody is letting cars go for that little.

[S code 69 13]

I paid that for my S code Mach 1 less than a year ago, less than 1 square foot of rust in the entire car counting the floorboards which I repaired myself. since then I've seen a dozen fastbacks in the 5-9 thousand price range rust free or nearly rust free, I don't take a second look at rust buckets. I just bought a TOTALLY rust free 383 4 speed '70 Superbee for $4500 ( no engine ) as my next project, you don't have to live with rust or high priced projects you just have to look in the right areas and watch for a decent deal.

 

I have nothing to gain by making this up, watch the craigslist in western states for yourself if you don't believe me, or let Hop Sing build you a mustang I really don't care.

[Muletman 18]

Hey guy's if you have the budget, why not the Dynacorn, I'll bet that it is put together better than the original. Read the Hot Rod article on their 67/68 fastback, they use heavier gauge steel and modern manufacturing techniques.

 

I went a different way, I bought a roller that needs everything, I will have 17k into it after all of the paint and body is completed. I wanted to save a car from the scrap yard and basterdize 8) it the way that I wanted it. In the end, to make either car really nice your going to have to invest some serious cash.

[SlimeGold 69 15]

One good thing that has come from these Dynacorn bodies is more sheet metal parts for our cars like roofs, cowls, firewalls ect. So in a way, they are a good thing. I'm sure they will help save some more scrap yard bound cars with the new replacement panels available.

[cphsonic 11]

Or if not, at least the VIN's. :shifty:

[Pakrat 1,043]

I think they all have their place in society and each fits a different need. It's starting to sound more like you have an issue with Asia in general more so than the car itself. Not sure what you replaced the square foot of rust with on your car but odds are the parts didn't come from this country and if it wasn't for all those Taiwan made parts over the years that kept countless cars restored and alive to enjoy today there might not even be a Mustang hobby as we know it.

 

I eventually purchased a rust free California car but I wasn't about to buy it sight unseen and I spent good money on several trips out west to inspect some of these cars just to come home empty handed, had something like this been available at the time I may have gone that route instead.

[S code 69 13]

It's two fold, American muscle means American made with a real VIN. a 1969 Mustang is a classic, a Tiwanmobile is just that, if it fits your needs then great but it's a fake with limited appreciation potiential.

 

Second is just plain dollars and cents , a rust free roller for half the money of a Dynacorn shell or a driving rust free car for the same money is a no brainer.

 

The quality of steel in Dynacorn products suck, but the fit isn't too bad, and by the way dynacorn makes goodmark and many other brands. my hood is so soft we had to bend it to fit proper and it was like bending wire, when I cut the hood scoop light holes the peices I removed were way thicker and so soft I could twist them like copper. to each their own, if I had it to do over I would have bought a ford tooling hood and found some good original fenders and fixed them. the dynacorn stuff is usable, if it wasn't I would have pitched it before I would screw my car up with it, but the steel is honestly crap. I would NEVER buy a dynacorn body in a million years since an original is cheaper , real and not made of playdough, just my opinion.

[wantahertzdonut 10]

I paid that for my S code Mach 1 less than a year ago, less than 1 square foot of rust in the entire car counting the floorboards which I repaired myself. since then I've seen a dozen fastbacks in the 5-9 thousand price range rust free or nearly rust free, I don't take a second look at rust buckets. I just bought a TOTALLY rust free 383 4 speed '70 Superbee for $4500 ( no engine ) as my next project, you don't have to live with rust or high priced projects you just have to look in the right areas and watch for a decent deal.

 

I have nothing to gain by making this up, watch the craigslist in western states for yourself if you don't believe me, or let Hop Sing build you a mustang I really don't care.

 

I bought a car with zero rust on it, but I paid over $15k for it. I've seen people pay $8k for a basketcase. I guess it depends on what you're willing to get and how far out of your realm you're willing to go.

 

With that said, "rust free" means different things to different people. To me it means solid, complete, untouched, original sheetmetal that needs NO metalwork. To others, "just a little rust" is different than rotted out. To me they're the same. A car that required patching is NOT rust free.

 

So yes, one can go out west, travel thousands of miles to look at cars, only to find the jackass selling the car thinks that because the major rot has been covered up with 5 gallons of bondo, it's "rust free". Not many people are willing to take that risk, or have the time, or the resources. Some just don't want to bother.

 

THAT'S why people don't scour the West for cars so much.

[S code 69 13]

What I consider rust free is a spot or two on the floorboard maybe, or maybe a tiny spot in the lower rears where dirt held moisture and a minor repair is needed. a minor rust car might need lower rear 1/4's for the same reason or maybe a floorboard panel or two but the rest of the car is just dirty nothing more. to expect a car with not even a pinhole anywhere is really not realistic of 40 year old sheet metal. yes they're out there but give me a break.

 

Yes there are rust buckets out west, some are from real wet areas around the coast or lets face it cars move and may have come from the rust belt. for example there's a 69 S code Mach 1 in the SF craigslist right now that has what I would call minor rust. he says it needs a minor work on the floor pans and a lower rear 1/4 patch. now I haven't seen the car and there could be more rust but I'd guess it isn't real bad. so here we have a real mach 1 with a little rust , fold down rear seat, engine and tranny rebuilt but not hooked up, 9" rear, Marti report you name it for $13,500 or best offer. so you can probably be safe in saying if the car checked out as discribed you could make him an offer and have this car sitting in your shop at home for about the same money as a repop shell would cost, and I've sen better cars this one is just here now. which car are you going to have the most money in when both are show ready? and which one will be worth the most money now and in the future? this is what my point is.

 

Rust free and nearly rust free cars are for sale everyday and if you watch you can find one at a decent price. if you don't want to come out west and buy one that doesn't hurt my feeling one little bit that just leaves more for me. if you decide to buy a repop body and sink a fortune into it that is just fine with me as well. If you want a car but aren't up to fixing a rust bucket you really do have a choice, just one car guy to another so take it for what it's worth.