70mstang 11 Report post Posted September 21, 2009 Gotcha =) I like the look of the inset versus smooth all the way to the tail light panel. Just need to fill in the little 1" inset. Then I'm thinking of grinding down the MUSTANG letters to be flat instead of angled and glue them into that recess where SHELBY was supposed to go. I don't think it'll take too much to fill in between the extension and the tail light panel. I'll get some pictures when I can get the bolts lined up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted September 22, 2009 sounds cool.. cant wait for the pics...:tongue_smilie: Gotcha =) I like the look of the inset versus smooth all the way to the tail light panel. Just need to fill in the little 1" inset. Then I'm thinking of grinding down the MUSTANG letters to be flat instead of angled and glue them into that recess where SHELBY was supposed to go. I don't think it'll take too much to fill in between the extension and the tail light panel. I'll get some pictures when I can get the bolts lined up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70vert 17 Report post Posted October 1, 2009 Heh, subscribing. I'll create my own build thread one of these days. Maybe after I get the battery in the trunk, new radiator, and new engine in sometime this year . . . :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted November 9, 2009 After the floods here in GA I ended up taking a little time away from the build. So lately hadn't done too much. I did get the trunk lid & fender extensions temporarily mounted. Not perfectly straight yet, but that will come. I'm putting up a pic that shows the gap between the tail light panel and the extension. It's about an inch but shouldn't be too difficult to fill in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted November 17, 2009 Got to spend a little time in the garage over the weekend. worked on front quarters & headlight buckets. Almost starting to look like a car again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted December 31, 2009 Just worked on getting the windows in the car. No pics .. not too much excitement. I did have to drill holes that the Tiawan repop manufacturer left out so I could mount the hardware. :001_huh: I did find out I SUCK at fibreglass, so going to have a local shop help me out with the trunk lid and extensions. Found a vendor on Ebay that sells 99 seat upholstery and will let me order the front seat pieces only since I'll have the original seat in the back. Getting some samples then will run up to Mustangs Unlimited here in GA to compare the colors to original color to see what matches the best. Just plodding along doing mediocre stuff till I can get money for paint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted December 31, 2009 looking good.. cant wait to see it finished!! keep up the good work!! great info on the end caps... im sure i would have the same problem with my 69 coupe.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 After the floods here in GA I ended up taking a little time away from the build. So lately hadn't done too much. I did get the trunk lid & fender extensions temporarily mounted. Not perfectly straight yet, but that will come. I'm putting up a pic that shows the gap between the tail light panel and the extension. It's about an inch but shouldn't be too difficult to fill in. It's still a better fit than on my 69' curved tail panel, that inch is about what the Shelby overlay panel would take up if it were added. I did find out I SUCK at fibreglass, so going to have a local shop help me out with the trunk lid and extensions. LOL that is usually best, it's not as easy to do as it looks and appears. I had the illusion that it would be much like paper mache or something but it ain't and you defintely want a nice finished look under the paint. I figure I had enough labor in mine to buy at least one more full kit if not two but very happy with the finsihed results and totally worth it considering the total amount I sank into the restoration, especially when you consider this is the view most will see. :shifty: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted January 7, 2010 Here's what I am planning with my paint scheme. I built a Revell Mach 1 model and sawed off the top to make it a vertible :tongue_smilie: The interior is a little light but it's close enuff. I swapped out the stock wheels with some off of a custom shelby model so I could get an idea of my eventual wheel size. I might get an Elenor model just for the wheels LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfrozen1969 11 Report post Posted January 9, 2010 That is a great idea...looks good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted January 25, 2010 Anyone know how to get the nuts up into the rocker panel? It's probably simple and I'm over thinking it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 26, 2010 sorry to say i don't have an answer for you, but i did replace mine several months ago. however it must have been a trivial task for me not to remember! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted January 26, 2010 It's been a while, but the last ones I messed with were on my GT Mustang and they are still basically the same design, lol. First, know the orientation... the two wings should stick out and be visable from the outside of the hole pointing towards the center of the car. Trick... Tie a small piece of safety wire on it so you dont lose it down in the rocker. You can always yank it out and reorient. Install... You put it completely up in there with the tabs pointing inward, then pull the tabbed side out and over the edge then pull the remaining to clip into place. I think I may have used needle nose or one of those spring loaded 4 claw extendo pick up tools, then once you have the two tabs in place, depending how tight the fit, you may need to screw a bolt into it to yank it down into place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfrozen1969 11 Report post Posted January 26, 2010 How has your progress been going, do you have any new photos to add. Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted January 28, 2010 Not too much progress to speak of yet. I did realize how damn simple it was to get those nuts in. I was way over thinking it. I just slid em in sideways and pulled em tight! Thanks for the tip Fordrevhead! :thumbup: I'll try to nab some pics od where it stands now. Last things I did was finish mounting the rear window regulators and the convertible top frame. Still waiting on room at the shop to get the rest of the fibreglass work done. Mr Ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfrozen1969 11 Report post Posted January 29, 2010 did you reskin your doors, if so, where did you buythem, what should I be looking for when buying a pair, and how did you attach them to the door frame. pixs would help. Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted January 31, 2010 I bought repops for mine which is why I am probably having so many problems with lining them up. My Drivers door was beyond repair which is why I went with them. I know Flight96 did reskin his doors under his topic : He has some good pics My 69 Vert Project...Let The Games Begin I've got the cowl painted and the inner doors are finished and undercoated. The drivers side door skin is on. I dry fitted it on the car first to be sure of the alignment. I then tack welded a few spots and pulled the door off the car.(Breaking 2 hinge bolts !!!:cursing:) Today I hope to finish the drivers side skin and get the door frame in primer, maybe I'll get started on the passenger side skin...... Attached Thumbnails __________________ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Anyone have trouble with the load on the stock trunk lid supports not letting the fiberglass trunk sit flush? I'm wondering if I need to swap out to the pnuematic rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Anyone have trouble with the load on the stock trunk lid supports not letting the fiberglass trunk sit flush? I'm wondering if I need to swap out to the pnuematic rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Anyone have trouble with the load on the stock trunk lid supports not letting the fiberglass trunk sit flush? I'm wondering if I need to swap out to the pnuematic rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Are you saying when the lid is down and latched it does not sit flush? There are some rods that run across near the back of the seat length wise that will adjust the tension of the hinges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Are you saying when the lid is down and latched it does not sit flush? There are some rods that run across near the back of the seat length wise that will adjust the tension of the hinges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Are you saying when the lid is down and latched it does not sit flush? There are some rods that run across near the back of the seat length wise that will adjust the tension of the hinges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elizabethys 10 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Wow thats seems really interesting. Thanks for sharing ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elizabethys 10 Report post Posted March 8, 2010 Wow thats seems really interesting. Thanks for sharing ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
