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mikem

Paint troubles

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I've had my car out of the paint shop for about 3 weeks. The paint was a base coat/clear coat. I filled up with gas four days ago and apparently the new reproduction cap I bought, leaks. I saw directly under the gas cap on the tail light panel that the paint has bubbled. My 70 Mach was painted with the same system in 92 and it has had fuel spilled on it several times with no issues at all. In fact, I have used lacquer thinner to wipe up overspray off the clear coat and that never caused a problem either. Anyone have any idea why the paint would bubble?

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Mikem the gas should not affect the clear, can you look closely and determine if the clear is bubbling or the basecoat paint underneath the clear? If the new paint didnt seal completely the gas could have seeped out, and under the basecoat causing the bubling effect. At least its just the back panel and a reshoot should be easy.

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I got a Scott Drake reproduction pop off gas cap assembly. It came with a twist on cap since the spring loaded one wasn't even close to sealing. The twist on one leaks as well. I bought an original pop off assembly off ebay and used it for months while prepping my car for paint. It was pitted badly but it didnt leak at all. I just bought another one off ebay that looks decent so I'll try that. I may as well get a new filler neck to rule out a potential problem there.

The paint shop will no doubt re-shoot that area. I just hate to go through that but that's life.

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This isn't the first time I have heard of gas eating the paint (usually due to sloppy filling at the pump) but that really shouldn't happen, especially after 3 weeks of curing, maybe it's reproduction paint too the way your luck has been going?:whistling:

 

Anyhow, the reproduction gas caps instructions do usually state that the pop off spring is for show use only and not for a driving car which is why they give you the cap with it too, not sure why your cap would leak too though. I mean either you live ontop of the steepest hill in the world, gun it than brake hard all the time or try to put 21 gallons in it otherwise I don't see how the heck you are leaking gas so high above the tank line.

 

FWIW I now have a repro pop open in place of my original and I do run it with the spring and have no leaks. I wasn't satisfied with the out of box fit though so I stretched the spring a little for more tension and doubled up on the cork gasket. I only use the twist on cap for winter storage.

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This isn't the first time I have heard of gas eating the paint (usually due to sloppy filling at the pump) but that really shouldn't happen, especially after 3 weeks of curing, maybe it's reproduction paint too the way your luck has been going?:whistling:

Sloppy filling at the pump. Seriously? I hold the pump and when it shuts off, i dont try to squeeze anything else in. You are right, its my luck lately but the shop told me that the gas had nothing to do with it. It was supposedly a chemical reaction from the old paint to the new paint.?. I dont know enough about paint and various compatibility to call B.S. or not. They are re-shooting it though.

 

Anyhow, the reproduction gas caps instructions do usually state that the pop off spring is for show use only and not for a driving car which is why they give you the cap with it too, not sure why your cap would leak too though. I mean either you live ontop of the steepest hill in the world, gun it than brake hard all the time or try to put 21 gallons in it otherwise I don't see how the heck you are leaking gas so high above the tank line.

I called the number for Scott Drake and read the instructions to them and wanted to return it for that reason. The gentleman that talked to me assured me that it was ok to use the pop off version and that for liability purposes they stated the cap was for show only. When i saw it wasnt going to work without massaging it, i used the screw on cap.

 

To me, its easy to understand that a gas cap either seals or it doesnt, no matter how you drive the car.

FWIW I now have a repro pop open in place of my original and I do run it with the spring and have no leaks. I wasn't satisfied with the out of box fit though so I stretched the spring a little for more tension and doubled up on the cork gasket. I only use the twist on cap for winter storage.

Something i might want to try but thinking of having the original rechromed and selling the reproduction. Chroming is very expensive though.

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Sloppy filling at the pump. Seriously? I hold the pump and when it shuts off, i dont try to squeeze anything else in. You are right, its my luck lately but the shop told me that the gas had nothing to do with it. It was supposedly a chemical reaction from the old paint to the new paint.?. I dont know enough about paint and various compatibility to call B.S. or not. They are re-shooting it though.

I called the number for Scott Drake and read the instructions to them and wanted to return it for that reason. The gentleman that talked to me assured me that it was ok to use the pop off version and that for liability purposes they stated the cap was for show only. When i saw it wasnt going to work without massaging it, i used the screw on cap.

To me, its easy to understand that a gas cap either seals or it doesnt, no matter how you drive the car.

Something i might want to try but thinking of having the original rechromed and selling the reproduction. Chroming is very expensive though.

 

Yup, the shut off sensor doesn't always work on old cars, I saw one guy fill his shoes once and anohter guy that walked away and started to create a gasoline lake. Surprisingly he had the sense to push his car out of the puddle before starting it though. Glad the shop is making good but their exscue makes me nervous, I don't doubt but didn't they paint the WHOLE car the same way?

 

Yeah liability is usualy the reason, just like all those suspension parts that say off road use only, c'mon, hom many of us ever take our muscle cars off road, sheesh. I agree on the sealing and wasn't trying to imply you have bad driving habits or anything but I can only understand that it would cause evaporation. I have never seen gas travel up the filler neck and puke all over the place like a radiator unless it was being syphoned, at a very steep angle or radically sloshing about.

 

I was going to rechrome too but the cost to do it right and have the center brushed was outrageous so I decided on repop and I'll sell the original to someone building a concours car that want's to invest the coin.

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part of the problem is the paint wasn't fully cured. it usually takes at least 90 days for the newer paint formulas to fully cure. not sure what brand you are using to know the actual recommended cure time. thats why most body shops don't recommend that you even wax the new paint for 3-6 months. it does take a good while.

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Yup, the shut off sensor doesn't always work on old cars, I saw one guy fill his shoes once and anohter guy that walked away and started to create a gasoline lake. Surprisingly he had the sense to push his car out of the puddle before starting it though. Glad the shop is making good but their exscue makes me nervous, I don't doubt but didn't they paint the WHOLE car the same way?

 

Yeah liability is usualy the reason, just like all those suspension parts that say off road use only, c'mon, hom many of us ever take our muscle cars off road, sheesh. I agree on the sealing and wasn't trying to imply you have bad driving habits or anything but I can only understand that it would cause evaporation. I have never seen gas travel up the filler neck and puke all over the place like a radiator unless it was being syphoned, at a very steep angle or radically sloshing about.

 

 

I was going to rechrome too but the cost to do it right and have the center brushed was outrageous so I decided on repop and I'll sell the original to someone building a concours car that want's to invest the coin.

 

 

oh it's very easy to overfill a mustang gas tank, i've done it numerous times before myself and i have also filled my shoes on occassion as well, it's not fun when it happens....especially when you are about to go on a date

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Sellersrodshop, thanks for the information about paint curing. I wish the shop would have told me. I waxed my hood already. Will this cause a problem? Should i take the wax off?

 

i would just keep an eye on it. you should be o.k. maybe next time you wash it will remove any excess wax that might cause a problem. most paint shops now have "baking" paintbooths that speed the cure times, but they still usually add the disclaimer & timetable as a "cover your a**" thing.

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I will wash it down with a dishwashing soap solution and leave it alone for another 60 days or so. I'm still concerned about the paint. It sure seems to scratch and chip easily. The shop told me that they dont plan to sand down the entire panel, just the spot that bubbled and the area around it. They said they can "blend it in" and that i would not be able to tell it was re-shot. I hope that's true.

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This exact same thing happened to me last summer after getting my car painted (base,clear). I have the original pop open gas cap, it was just dribbling out, but when I popped the cap it starting gushing!! I had filled up that morning and parked the car at work in the hot sun, I guess the gas expanded?? Anyway, bubbled the paint right down to the metal. Spilling a bit of gas shouldn't hurt the paint, but having it run down it for several hours will.

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