69 coupe build

[stangme428 33]

ok - work schedule and various items have kept me away from the build, but the car guys stepped up and are working on it while im away...

andy and ryan pulled the mock block and T56 out and mated the 408 clevor and Viper T56 together for a test fit in the car. the front end is up in the air a bit so hopefully with the weight of the 408 it will settle a bit.

 

the angle looks ok and the only spot the T56 is hitting with ron morris motor mounts in stock height configuration is at the tunnel support just before the shifter opening. we hope to trim the support instead of using the drop motor mount plates that came with the ron morris kit. i want to autocross one day and have been told to NOT have the motor the lowest point (center of gravity) on the car.

 

more work and angle of motor/pinion to be checked, crossmember test fitment and hooker header fitment test this week.

scheduled a engine dyno for the week of 12.7-11.09 i should know monday 12.7 the exact day for testing.

 

a few pics of the engine sliding in .. been waiting many many years to see this motor combo in my 69. getting closer.

 

thanks to andy and ryan for stepping in and workin hard!!!

 

the last photo is of the gap between the firewall and quicktime bell housing etc.

Edited December 2, 2009 by stangme428

[stangme428 33]

ok -- i reached my goal :tongue_smilie:, 504 HP, 508 lb-ft corrected numbers on a superflow 901 @ 5500 RPM. we stopped at that RPM even though the cam was good to 6500 and the motor sounded fine. it shows there is a bit more left in the combo .. it was still climbing... i learned a great bit seeing the book knowledge at work in the real world. we have a little work ahead of us.

 

ill post more in the next few days - i have been sick the last few days and busy at work too...

 

the AFD 2V heads worked fine out of the box, the motor break in went as smooth as could be expected - the comp cams linked lifters where a little noisy at first but then quieted down... the Mallory Max-Fire distributor made my hair gray until we figured out the correct procedure to make it connect consistently to the distributor. ill post the procedure soon.

 

we have three opportunities:

 

• mighty demon 750 annular carb - really didn't work for my setup, i hope to sell it and get a custom built carb to match my combo - the demon only has a couple dyno runs on it
  
• the cam may be installed "straight up" instead to comp cams spec - we will be checking this out in the weeks to come
  
• the AFD 2v heads were ordered already plugged for a windsor block - the plugs appear to be leaking - coolant (water) only - no water in oil etc - so we will pull the heads and check the installed plugs - if the dyno room didn't have a pressurized water system we would have never caught this. we basically tested without water pressure but water flowing through the motor - which seems to be the way most dyno facilities are setup.
  

thanks to the crew - Andy, Ryan and Joe - couldn't be where i am with this build without these guys!!!:tongue_smilie:

 

photo is of the 408 clevor on the dyno and of the last max-fire settings -

 

more to come...

[Jayru 17]

Wow, congrats! Impressive power numbers. I wouldn't have been able to stop at 5500 if it was still pulling! :tongue_smilie:

 

I'm confused about the head plugs. Where are they? Where do they leak coolant to, the combustion chamber?

[stangme428 33]

jayru - yeah confused me and scared me pretty good.... basically if you look at where the water passages are on a windsor block compared to a cleveland head -- the paths are different - so you block some passages on the head and you drill some holes in the block... the screw in fittings in the head to block off the cleveland water path flow apparently where not sealed good. i talked to the builder and he said he didnt check them cause they were already done. so water seeped out around the edge of the head but not into the combustion chamber.

 

i posted a pic of the inserts and new passages - note the inserts in the bottom corner of each side..

 

Wow, congrats! Impressive power numbers. I wouldn't have been able to stop at 5500 if it was still pulling! :tongue_smilie:

 

I'm confused about the head plugs. Where are they? Where do they leak coolant to, the combustion chamber?

Edited December 11, 2009 by stangme428

[flight96 14]

Congrats on the numbers !!! Too bad about the leak. Hopefully its not too bad !! Great feeling aint it !!

[4reboy 10]

are you sure that's a clevor?? coolant is going into the intake, not the block...

 

Unless clevor for some reason means something other than cleveland...

 

The engine and everything looks great though

[RogerC 136]

Clevor is a windsor block (or), usually 351, with cleveland(clev) heads other than the factory boss 302 engines.

[stangme428 33]

yep im sure.... i have a B&A intake from back in the day that helps mate cleveland heads to a windsor block..

 

are you sure that's a clevor?? coolant is going into the intake, not the block...

 

Unless clevor for some reason means something other than cleveland...

 

The engine and everything looks great though

[stangme428 33]

oh yeah ... great feeling ... cant wait to have it rolling down the road...:tongue_smilie:

 

Congrats on the numbers !!! Too bad about the leak. Hopefully its not too bad !! Great feeling aint it !!

[flight96 14]

Ya, mine is back in the shop for the winter...Nothing you have to worry about down there, but its getting cold up here !! I started it up last night, I love the way she sounds. When are ya hoping to have it on the road ?

[stangme428 33]

Ya, mine is back in the shop for the winter...Nothing you have to worry about down there, but its getting cold up here !! I started it up last night, I love the way she sounds. When are ya hoping to have it on the road ?

 

cool - not sure on hitting the road yet -- money for body work and paint is short at the moment...:scared:

 

but hopefully in the next few months she will hit the road:biggrin:

[flight96 14]

Hey !! you fly me down there and I'll paint it for ya !!! Might costa ya a bottle of whiskey and a game of golf ! :-)

[4reboy 10]

Clevor is a windsor block (or), usually 351, with cleveland(clev) heads other than the factory boss 302 engines.

 

Ok I was wondering about that... all this time I thought "clevor" was just short for cleveland, hell I've typed clevor to be short for cleveland before. Now I know that cleveland + windsor = clevor...

[stangme428 33]

Hey !! you fly me down there and I'll paint it for ya !!! Might costa ya a bottle of whiskey and a game of golf ! :-)

 

lol.. .cool man ... not a bad deal actually... but, body guy is coming over this weekend to check out the roof and give me a quote etc...:tongue_smilie:

[flight96 14]

So.................Is that a no...???...cause its snowing up here now and I have my golf clubs packed and ready to go !!

[RogerC 136]

at this point yes no turn signal/headlight indicator - i think most are using a LED setup for indication. i will miss my running horse indicator on my old bezel.

 

hopefully i can find some creative ideas on the net and try them out. ill post more pics when i come up with something.:shifty:

 

Got mine out the other day. It was taped to the backside of the speedo face. Looks like a little clean up and some work to fab a bulb socket/housing, maybe using a piece of pvc.

 

backside

[stangme428 33]

So.................Is that a no...???...cause its snowing up here now and I have my golf clubs packed and ready to go !!

 

lol ... yeah thanks for the offer man, but i better not.... broke as a haint at the moment and i suck at golf:tongue_smilie:

[stangme428 33]

racerX - a nice blue led behind it might be nice...:thumbup: let us know how it goes....

[RogerC 136]

racerX - a nice blue led behind it might be nice...:thumbup: let us know how it goes....

 

It's going on this

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?p=55741#post55741

[stangme428 33]

It's going on this

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?p=55741#post55741

 

cool .. cant wait to see the progress!!

[buening 63]

Excellent build. This will be especially useful for me since I'll be installing a Cobra T56 behind my windsor. I've read that you have to have a clutch pedal stop to prevent blowing out the seals on the hydraulic throwout bearing. I've read of a few people ruining their $400 TO bearings because of this. Have you head the same and have you installed a pedal stop?

[stangme428 33]

buening - thanks for the kind comments ... we are not there yet... the motor and trans are back out of the car for the dyno test at the moment. if i remember tho, it seems the pedal has a stop built in... ill go back thru my pics and see. but yeah if we need to we will definately install a pedal stop.

 

a cobra T56 from a modular motor is a good bit different than a dodge Viper T56 or a Viper spec T56. make sure which one you have or which one you are purchasing...

 

Excellent build. This will be especially useful for me since I'll be installing a Cobra T56 behind my windsor. I've read that you have to have a clutch pedal stop to prevent blowing out the seals on the hydraulic throwout bearing. I've read of a few people ruining their $400 TO bearings because of this. Have you head the same and have you installed a pedal stop?

[buening 63]

Yeah I'm aware of the differences and there are quite a few. I picked up the Cobra T56 for $900 and it only had 29k on the odometer, so I really couldn't pass it up. The main thing your thread will help me with is the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch setup. I too have power brakes and am going from the auto FMX to manual, so your pics will be extremely helpful.

 

Have you installed the MD crossmember yet? I'm curious how that works out. Another fellow that installed a T56 into his 67 convertible said that the MD crossmember needed to be modified heavily for it to work, and just ended up making his own crossmember. What exhaust are you planning on using? I have Hooker Comp long tubes with the Magnaflow 2.5" stainless with X-pipe. I'm a little worried about the X-pipe and header clearance, but I'll cross that road when I get there. I'm still gathering all the parts and won't be able to buy it in a huge chunk like you did.

 

I was doing a search over on Stangnet for hydraulic clutch and a few members had mentioned in a thread about the pedal stop. That forum is blocked here at work so I can't provide a link.

[stangme428 33]

buening - nice buy on the trans... checkout ccobra70's build on post 40 he worked with MD to exchange his clutch master cylinder for a bigger bore unit due to having a engagement problem, MD was aware of the problem - i may have to do the same, i just chose not to call during the holidays. he and i have been told that we are the first to receive these units.

as for the cross member, which is a ron morris universal part, we are cutting the tunnel support towards the front of the trans tunnel after the holidays, this should give us the room to allow for the proper driveline angle. the initial mock up of the cross member doesn't look like its going to be a problem at all. the only item i have is that i already have subframe connectors and the cross member will mount very very close to where they are welded.

you will need to mount your emergency brake cable bracketry under the car in a different location, or come up with a new system. shouldnt be a problem to re-weld and shorten the cable etc.

 

i have hooker comp long tubes also - and am interested in the same magnaflow stainless kit you have in either 2.5" or 3" ... i would love to replace the magnaflow mufflers with spintrap but ill run the magnaflow for a while - if it drones the mufflers are out.. and the spinntraps are in.

 

this is a 10yr build with several project changes ... 5.0 twin turbo is how it started ... lol... if my 96 cobra had not been totaled i wouldn't have been able to purchase the parts i have for the 69.. even still if you look at my first post date - it has taken longer than i expected.. but im setting the time frame, so if it takes longer to do it correct then so be it.

i am stangme on stangnet and stangme428 here... another member has stangme on this site... ill search stangnet for the thread your talking about. if you have fitment problems with the magnaflow and hooker combo.. i dont think its anything a local muffler shop cant resolve with a sawzall... :biggrin: it just may be a loud and fun drive to the muffler shop with open headers...:tongue_smilie: hope what i have posted in my build has helped. when i started my only resource was latamud....

 

Yeah I'm aware of the differences and there are quite a few. I picked up the Cobra T56 for $900 and it only had 29k on the odometer, so I really couldn't pass it up. The main thing your thread will help me with is the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch setup. I too have power brakes and am going from the auto FMX to manual, so your pics will be extremely helpful.

 

Have you installed the MD crossmember yet? I'm curious how that works out. Another fellow that installed a T56 into his 67 convertible said that the MD crossmember needed to be modified heavily for it to work, and just ended up making his own crossmember. What exhaust are you planning on using? I have Hooker Comp long tubes with the Magnaflow 2.5" stainless with X-pipe. I'm a little worried about the X-pipe and header clearance, but I'll cross that road when I get there. I'm still gathering all the parts and won't be able to buy it in a huge chunk like you did.

 

I was doing a search over on Stangnet for hydraulic clutch and a few members had mentioned in a thread about the pedal stop. That forum is blocked here at work so I can't provide a link.

Edited December 31, 2009 by stangme428

[ccobra70 10]

hey stangme one other thing we found which may or may not help on the md kit, we could not get the clutch to engage but just a hair, so long story short, the shaft that the hyd throw out bearing is on was longer on some of the tko 600 (dont ask why) so we called md and he said sometimes the need a spacer that slides over the shaft then the t.o bearing goes on after which gets it closer to the clutch, which they were out of stock so we cut our own from some pipe and it works great, so if you hit that prob. you know how to fix it.. and post some pics how is the motor coming, back in the car yet ,, maybe by spring or summer we can be driving!!!