Jump to content
stangme428

69 coupe build

Recommended Posts

ok,

i finally posted a few photos of the parts for the clevor build. yeah i know they are just parts, but i have been trying to build this motor for many years..

 

1)Yes those are cleveland pistons...30 over. nice relief for those canted valves..

the weakest link in the build ... ring valley into the pin.. she should be fine... comp height is 1.250

2) part number for the pistons

 

3)The AFD 2V 64cc heads look simply amazing. I'm looking for a nice valve cover for them

 

 

AFD ports and spring hardware....:tongue_smilie:

 

 

afdports1.jpg

 

AFD valves !!! :tongue_smilie:

afdvalves1.jpg

and a sneak peak at the viper t56

viper_t56_finally_sm.jpg

 

I ended up with a 6.250 Chevy 350 rod too.. more to come....

 

:punk:

Edited by stangme428
insert pics instead of links.. added piston shot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Keep an eye out on Don Barry's in Jax, I have seen some news on his shop before but that was a long time ago. I know the Jacksonville Mustang Club should still be around. I was a member there back when they started up. They should be able to give you some good info. Here's their website: http://www.jmcmustang.com/

 

i called don barry's shop a couple of times a few weeks in a row and left messages. but no replies. so, if they are that busy ill try to find somewhere else to get body work and paint. i understand shops get busy. i plan on going by hp performance in jax at some point to check out the shop and get some recommendations on paint and body work. i ordered my valley girdle kit from them and also talked to them on the phone a few times. nice people to talk with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i stopped by the machine shop today .. 1.7.09. the short block is together ... taking the timing cover by next week .. long block assembly may be done next week 1.12.09 with possible pick up the following week.. 1.18.09 if i can get down to Jacksonville.

 

the motor looks amazing painted inside and out... i took a few picks and left a disposable digital camera behind for the builder to take pics of what remians of the long block build. cant wait! :tongue_smilie:

 

i need to contact mallory and holley to find out what gear i need for the unilite distributor, and also which holley 750 carb to order.

 

i would love to go accel thruster and efi .. but maybe later... we shall see. im trying to get ready for the 45th celebration in Birmingham in April.

:punk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the clevor longblock is almost complete, ran into an opportunity today, I need to exchange or purchase intake bolts for the clevor intake, the ones in the ARP engine kit didn't fit .. dont know what I was thinking. and also another opportunity on the water passages, seems the front water passages on the heads are missing.. :helpsmilie: ... so the water crossover between the heads that flows thru the track boss intake is not going to work until we either drill out the water passages on the heads, or come up with another method using the plugs in the front of the heads. gonna do some research on this ... cant believe i missed it. awaiting a email/call from lawrence at ausfordparts dot com.

 

here is a shot of the motor painted and with the intake resting in the valley.. ashame you have to cover up all those beautiful parts.. canton 15-680S road race pan with baffles 9qt.. gulp

 

 

 

:punk::punk::punk:

Edited by stangme428

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

more progress... after a little reading, seems it is the easy thing to do, and that's drill the water passages to match the intake and gaskets. also, nice little note inside the ARP 12pt SS engine bolt kit that gives a number to call to exchange out the bolts that do not fit your application. spoke with ARP, just send the bolts that do not apply back, with the specs on the needed items, and they ship the new items back out.

 

below is a photo of the valley girdle pro, probably the most controversial part in the build. the surface was machined flat and tapped at the mounting point in the valley per the valley girdle pro install instructions.. you can pick out the comp cams 8931-16 linked lifters.. with the comp cams 8.450 x 3/8 x .080 wall pushrods...

 

 

 

I tried to "over build" where I could without throwing money away. I should "never":tongue_smilie: reach the limits of the all forged internals with a stock 69 block. allthough the early blocks are supposed to handle more horsepower, I wanted give the motor the opportunity to live a long life with a canton main girdle support, valley girdle pro up top with internal balanced crank and TCI 870010 rattler damper.

 

photo of the canton main girdle

 

photo of the clearancing of the block at the melling HV oil pump..

 

more to come ... :rockon:

Edited by stangme428

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

update with some photos.. still need to order a carb, timing pointer, mech fuel block off plate, valve covers, water pump, uni lite distributor.. and decide on the front belt drive. all of the serpentine conversion kits i have found are for a 4 bolt setup and I have a 3 bolt setup. if anybody has a 3 bolt setup serpentine kit.. let me know..

 

:punk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Stop it !! Your killing me !!!!!:scared: What pistons did you use for that build?

 

SRP forged flat tops ... see a pic with the part number in post 19 at the bottom. but .. because i had a early block, as do you, the machine shop took off a bit.. and i had 6.25" rods. use 69gmachines calculation to figure it out with your deck height.

:tongue_smilie:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to Friends who have garage's ... and love mustangs!! my buddy Andy who is helping me with this build came over last weekend and we loaded up the 69 to make the trip to his garage in Jacksonville, FL

 

one of the tires blew on the 69 loading on the trailer on a previous load up .. so i installed the steel wheel and left the insert off... wish i would have installed the center cap.. the moser engineering axle has rust build up on it now.

 

more to come... old 5.0 EFI motor and AOD trans has been removed ... getting ready for the 408 Clevor :punk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks to Friends who have garage's ... and love mustangs!! my buddy Andy who is helping me with this build came over last weekend and we loaded up the 69 to make the trip to his garage in Jacksonville, FL

 

one of the tires blew on the 69 loading on the trailer on a previous load up .. so i installed the steel wheel and left the insert off... wish i would have installed the center cap.. the moser engineering axle has rust build up on it now.

 

more to come... old 5.0 EFI motor and AOD trans has been removed ... getting ready for the 408 Clevor :punk:

 

cool, can't wait to see pics of it with the new motor and tranny!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok ... cant wait .. have not had time to build my website .. so here is a little info... when i bought the car in 94 i opened the glove box... and in the card holder was the warranty card.... i wrote to the name and address on the warranty card and... the original owner replied! she wrote me a 4 page letter along with invoice cost... "70 models had just come out so this car was discounted from $3,700 to $3,200. Our total cost was $3,304.62" ... she also provided repair info with dates and costs from her check journal and a photo!! turned out my car was used as a grocery getter with some daily driver... when the son acquired it at age 16... then sat with a blown head gasket for many years ... and after a engine replacement .. another blown head gasket and sat for many more years .. from 86- to 91 and then it was sold to a family friend and again sat until 94 when i purchased the car. i bought the car, redid the brakes, replaced the alternator, voltage regulator and installed a new battery, tires and drove it for 60k miles .. many of those 90 miles a day round trip...glad it was 2v then... great cars!! She only wanted me to send a pic when i finished..... hope its soon!!

Edited by stangme428

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so it was originally a 351w 2v then...cool, for some reason i thought it was originally a 302. have you thought about painting it back the original champagne gold? that was one of the colors i was considering painting mt car a long time ago. anything but the original lime gold.....when i got the car it had been repainted in dark ivy gold but was so oxidized it looked black. if i'd been thinking when it still had the original green interior i would have repainted it back ivy gold but there were no good pics of that color back then and only in the last few years have i started seeing really nice cars done in that color. i think the coupe would have looked good that color and probably did when the paint was still new. oh well i really like the acapulco blue so there are no plan to change it at all now that it's painted, but painting it dark ivy would have saved me some money on changing the interior out. when i decided to change the colors i also decided to add the deluxe interior which wasn't a cheap proposition

Edited by bnickel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bnickel - yeah i think that's the hard part for me is deciding on the colour. champagne gold with the black top .. kinda old school you don't see it much, at least i havent. for a while i thought the car was a GT because of all the options it had.. 351W 2V, FMX, AC, PS, PDB, scoop- but no GT gas cap, stripe or rear valance outlets... if i remember the swaybar was the correct size for a GT. the car had the original carpet which was a very dark brown almost black and also the dash pad is a very dark brown almost black with lt nugget gold seats and headliner. i picked up a set of original 68-69 GT wheels and caps soon after i purchased the car so I still have those. replaced the carpet with black and installed a black dashpad overlay. the original price of the car just seemed high to me ... the owner just didnt want a fastback or a mach 1 ... wanted a coupe with similar options. seems like they could have purchased a mach 1 for the price they paid.

 

 

so it was originally a 351w 2v then...cool, for some reason i thought it was originally a 302. have you thought about painting it back the original champagne gold? that was one of the colors i was considering painting mt car a long time ago. anything but the original lime gold.....when i got the car it had been repainted in dark ivy gold but was so oxidized it looked black. if i'd been thinking when it still had the original green interior i would have repainted it back ivy gold but there were no good pics of that color back then and only in the last few years have i started seeing really nice cars done in that color. i think the coupe would have looked good that color and probably did when the paint was still new. oh well i really like the acapulco blue so there are no plan to change it at all now that it's painted, but painting it dark ivy would have saved me some money on changing the interior out. when i decided to change the colors i also decided to add the deluxe interior which wasn't a cheap proposition

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnickel - yeah i think that's the hard part for me is deciding on the colour. champagne gold with the black top .. kinda old school you don't see it much, at least i havent. for a while i thought the car was a GT because of all the options it had.. 351W 2V, FMX, AC, PS, PDB, scoop- but no GT gas cap, stripe or rear valance outlets... if i remember the swaybar was the correct size for a GT. the car had the original carpet which was a very dark brown almost black and also the dash pad is a very dark brown almost black with lt nugget gold seats and headliner. i picked up a set of original 68-69 GT wheels and caps soon after i purchased the car so I still have those. replaced the carpet with black and installed a black dashpad overlay. the original price of the car just seemed high to me ... the owner just didnt want a fastback or a mach 1 ... wanted a coupe with similar options. seems like they could have purchased a mach 1 for the price they paid.

 

 

the 2v cars didn't get the dual outlet valance because they only single exhaust. did the car have hood pins? many times the GT gas cap winds up missing for any number of reasons, so that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't one if it doesn't have the cap but it must have the scoop, hood pins, and the visibility group option which gave you the remote side mirror (standard chrome unless the sport mirror option was also ordered) trunk light, glove box light, map light, parking brake warning light and underdash courtesy light. the car should also have the heavy duty/competition suspension, 14" styled steel wheels (argent colored but i think chrome was optional) with GT hupcaps and trim rings, minimum E-70-14 tires but i think most of them got the F-70-14's and minimum 351-2v engine as well as the GT gas cap. also i've found that most of them also had the Ram Air opening cut in the hood but had it blocked off with some kind of heavy duty aluminum tape however i now believe that only the 4v cars got this hood and the 2v cars came with the standard hood as pretty much all the 351-2v cars i've seen had the standard hood and the 351-4v, 390 and 428 (Q-code) cars had the ram air hood with the taped up opening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What distributor/ignition are you going to be running ? I am looking at MSD but now Im thinking about Pertonix.....

i think im going with a mallory unilite unless i go with a EDIS setup

 

since im slowing down a bit on the build ... i may go with a EDIS setup with trigger wheel and megajolt.

info

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis_summary.html

ebay kits

300296880913

vendor kits.. have not used this vendor

boostengineering dot net

 

some are using a modified explorer distributor in place of the 351 dist.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bnickel ... info from my marti report:

 

Your vehicle was ordered with the following options:

Black Vinyl Roof

Sports Appearance Group - No Tape Stripe

FMX Cruise-O-Matic Transmission

E78X14 Tires

White Sidewall Tires

Power Front Disc Brakes

Power Steering

Air Conditioner - Selectaire

AM Radio

Tinted Glass-Complete

Color Keyed Racing Mirrors

Wheel Covers

Your car was actually produced on January 31, 1969-- on schedule.

 

your car was one of:

8,231 With this Paint Code

4.119 with these paint and trim codes

13,967 With these Engine/transmission codes

2,035 Ordered from this DSO

20,183 With Sports appearance Group

 

 

the 2v cars didn't get the dual outlet valance because they only single exhaust. did the car have hood pins? many times the GT gas cap winds up missing for any number of reasons, so that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't one if it doesn't have the cap but it must have the scoop, hood pins, and the visibility group option which gave you the remote side mirror (standard chrome unless the sport mirror option was also ordered) trunk light, glove box light, map light, parking brake warning light and underdash courtesy light. the car should also have the heavy duty/competition suspension, 14" styled steel wheels (argent colored but i think chrome was optional) with GT hupcaps and trim rings, minimum E-70-14 tires but i think most of them got the F-70-14's and minimum 351-2v engine as well as the GT gas cap. also i've found that most of them also had the Ram Air opening cut in the hood but had it blocked off with some kind of heavy duty aluminum tape however i now believe that only the 4v cars got this hood and the 2v cars came with the standard hood as pretty much all the 351-2v cars i've seen had the standard hood and the 351-4v, 390 and 428 (Q-code) cars had the ram air hood with the taped up opening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok it's the sports appearance group option that added the scoop. that's pretty often confused for the GT group on a lot of cars. i was afraid it wasn't a GT but it never hurts to check, especially on a car that's been messed with in the past, it's actually fairly common for a GT to disappear into the woodwork

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...