jerry69 10 Report post Posted April 25, 2008 I got this Proportioning valve and wondered since the 1969 Mustang has 2 wires that control the Brake Warning Light, is there a way to wire up a single input? If not does this plastic one come out and where could I pick up one that has 2 wires to install in it's place.... So far the wiring diagram shows it starting from the (PO) of the ignition switch to the proportioning valve then from the proportioning valve to the idiot light. Earlier years shows a single wire to the proportioning valve then the switch is grounded.... has anyone run into this ??? See pic below Thanks Jerry69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daley driver 10 Report post Posted April 26, 2008 the item you have is a differential pressure switch that senses when either the front or rear system has lost pressure when the brake is applied and will reset when the problem is fixed. ie-brake hose with hole. I know what you have wont work on a 69. try to get the correct one. I dont know if the switch can be changed. FYI a proportioning valve restricts the fluid to the front/back left/right brakes mostly for racing purposes or if you have 4 wheel disc setup without antilock control. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted April 26, 2008 I used a proportioning valve from NPD part # 2B091-20AA and works perfect for disc-drum set up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hendog 10 Report post Posted April 26, 2008 I also am doing my brakes right now and also need the proportioning valve. I was thinking that one from NPD 2B091-20AA would work, but wasn't sure because that one has 2 lines out of the top and mine has three. Was it easy to figure out which line went where on the new one and did you just bend your old lines to fit or bend new ones? That one also looks like it has the right plug for the wire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 I replace all of my lines with stainless steel except from P/v to M/C as I had to custom make these (the tool to make the double flare won't do S/S). Not sure about the 3rd line but guessing that it is a bypass that you might not need with this set up. I am going to try and post a photo I used but not real good at these things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 Just a little history back in 89 bought a 70 torrino and installed the disc brake system from that car and thought I had a P/v problem but now think it was a over boost problem my car had D/B and switched to front disc man what a ride! barely touch the brakes and thought you were going to bust the windshield . during the rebuild went with SSBC system and the NPD P/V and no problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hendog 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 the one in the pic is just like the one in my car, 7 lines out but the one in the pic in the NPD catalog isn't the same, not enough outlets. So you say you ordered part no. 2B091-20AA and you got the one that you show in your pic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry69 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 After looking at the diagrams of both the single wire and two wire systems I see the wiring difference. The 2 wire is based on the sensor completing it's 12 volts + circuit and when the sensor closes the idiot light comes on.... The single wire is just the opposite, when the sensor closes with a problem the ground wire closes and completes it's circuit...... I won't play with the dash circuit board but I do have a cheap and better fix.... What I can do is buy a small plastic box 1" X 1" and inside the box install an LED and a small buzzer.....Since the sensor works from the "ground", I can run a fused 12 volts + direct to the LED and buzzer, then simply run a wire from the other side of the LED and buzzer to the sensor.... I haven't tested the sensor but just by looking at the diagram it should be (N/O) normally open, when a problem occours the sensor closes and completes the circuit, the buzzer and LED comes on..... The 1" X 1" plastic box could be placed anywhere with double sided tape, the wire could be thin 18 to 22 gauge wire.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 The photo in the last post was one I happened to have as I had no photos of mine so now I went to the garage and took a photo of mine. by the way what is the 3rd line for the first photo I sent you has one capped off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hendog 10 Report post Posted April 27, 2008 Thanks for the pic, that will help me. The third line loops from the top around and connects at the bottom just as in your first pic. This is still all original stuff on my car. That line on my car has a valve of some sort in it, and in your first pic that line has nothing in it. Is that the propotioning valve or maybe a metering valve? That new pressure valve does away with that loop. If I knew how to use this computer better I'd post a pic mine, but I can't and the kids are'nt home. It's exactly like your first pic minus the valve in the line that loops from top to bottom. I sure thank you for your help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted April 28, 2008 Just for clarification, the brass square blocks you guys are showing are more correctly reffered to as a distribution block if you are having trouble finding one. A proportioning valve has a knob on it to custom adjust the distribution of the fluid and is overkill for most street cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted April 30, 2008 The Proportioning valve I purchased is a proportioning valve, what you mean to say is distribution block and you are right there is a difference with a distribution block you would have to have an adjustment valve if using disc and drum brake. The brake setup I purchased came with an adjustment valve but I chose not to use it and went with the proportion valve I posted on my previous posts and works just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan R 10 Report post Posted April 8, 2009 Old Post here, but looking for help. I have seen the M/C to distribution block lines run differently in different places, hoping you experts can set me straight. Do the front brake lines go into the top front of the dist block, or the side of the block? The 2 pics in RKS's posts seam to be different. I have the block without the proportion valve connection. 5 total connections FRONT 1 in 2 out, REAR 1 in 1 out. I have excessive pedal play before the brakes start working and wondering if this could be a cause if not correctly plumbed. Rear self adjusters working, new m/c, booster seams fine, and pretty sure (though not positive) pressure retention valve is installed for the rears. Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan R 10 Report post Posted April 8, 2009 Old Post here, but looking for help. I have seen the M/C to distribution block lines run differently in different places, hoping you experts can set me straight. Do the front brake lines go into the top front of the dist block, or the side of the block? The 2 pics in RKS's posts seam to be different. I have the block without the proportion valve connection. 5 total connections FRONT 1 in 2 out, REAR 1 in 1 out. I have excessive pedal play before the brakes start working and wondering if this could be a cause if not correctly plumbed. Rear self adjusters working, new m/c, booster seams fine, and pretty sure (though not positive) pressure retention valve is installed for the rears. Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry69 10 Report post Posted April 9, 2009 On my post here (See Pic) the 2 top come from the M. C. The rear fitting goes to the rear brakes. The bottom fitting goes to the right front brake. The front angle fitting goes to the left front. That's how my are set up... Did you pre-bleed the MC before installing? On your setup is you bleeder valve on the caliper straight up when bleeding? If they are at 1 or 2 oclock position air can get caught up high in caliper, sometimes when bleeding while pressing down on the peddle just open the bleeder a tiny bit and tap a hammer lightly to the caliper, sometimes the light tapping will let the trapped air bubbles out... You might list what method you used for bleeding your brakes... Jerry69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry69 10 Report post Posted April 9, 2009 On my post here (See Pic) the 2 top come from the M. C. The rear fitting goes to the rear brakes. The bottom fitting goes to the right front brake. The front angle fitting goes to the left front. That's how my are set up... Did you pre-bleed the MC before installing? On your setup is you bleeder valve on the caliper straight up when bleeding? If they are at 1 or 2 oclock position air can get caught up high in caliper, sometimes when bleeding while pressing down on the peddle just open the bleeder a tiny bit and tap a hammer lightly to the caliper, sometimes the light tapping will let the trapped air bubbles out... You might list what method you used for bleeding your brakes... Jerry69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gsxrken 21 Report post Posted April 9, 2009 here's two shots from the Ford shop manual for 1969 http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/brake_prop_scan.jpg http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/brakevalve.jpg This photo shows a 69 distribution block, with the bullet shaped proportional valve on the rear circuit. http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/Mustang2/100_2259.jpg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gsxrken 21 Report post Posted April 9, 2009 here's two shots from the Ford shop manual for 1969 http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/brake_prop_scan.jpg http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/brakevalve.jpg This photo shows a 69 distribution block, with the bullet shaped proportional valve on the rear circuit. http://www.geocities.com/gsxrken/Mustang/Mustang2/100_2259.jpg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan R 10 Report post Posted April 11, 2009 Thanks for the pics. The pedal has come up slightly in last day or two, assume rear adjusters setting in. M/C was bench bled, system bled, RR, LR, LF, RF then repeat. Each time on each brake was done more than normal, hoping to get all air out of dry system. Front bleeders are at 11 and 1 o'clock positions. Will try the tapping Jerry mentioned. Thanks for the input guys Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan R 10 Report post Posted April 11, 2009 Thanks for the pics. The pedal has come up slightly in last day or two, assume rear adjusters setting in. M/C was bench bled, system bled, RR, LR, LF, RF then repeat. Each time on each brake was done more than normal, hoping to get all air out of dry system. Front bleeders are at 11 and 1 o'clock positions. Will try the tapping Jerry mentioned. Thanks for the input guys Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vmastros 10 Report post Posted July 23, 2010 Is there any functional difference between the part no. 2B091-20AA and 2B091-20BA? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
