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MloYlo2001

Floor rustproofing question

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I pulled my carpet to replace it and while the floor is pretty solid, it does have some surface rust. I want to sand it down and put some type of rustproofing on the floor. I would prefer to apply it with a brush from a can rather than spraypaint it on. Any ideas/suggestions?

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NO, NO, NO, go to a local paint supply and buy a bottle of ONE-STEP by mar-hyde, it converts rust to black primer with out sanding, just wire brush and it stops rust in its tracks. Or your local Wal- Mart now offers the same stuff called RUST CONVERTER made by Klean-Strip sold in the paint department where the stripper is located. Nothing against por-15, it covers rust, but this stuff stops it. Check with your local paint supplier if you want the skinny on it versus por-15. Check out the pic's of a Nova I reworked the floors on, buffed first sprayed and brushed ONE STEP Then epoxy prime and under coat applied . For your area I recommend the small bottle at Wal-Mart, very simple and low cost application.

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I under stand it to be as advertized " ONE STEP" should be a sealer, all in one. You can look up manf. name on net to be sure, I will check lable on bottle when I get home tonight.

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Yes , thats what I did like I was told to do it. I went at lunch time and asked the local paint supply Metro Color, they said it's a prime coat sealer and any one knows primer is poris when it comes to water and that why they and every one agrees with the epoxy sealer. It states on the bottle that it provents NEW RUST.

The best way to know for sure is to cut out and replace all vissable rust.

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Nope - POR 15 is the way to go. If it's surface rust you need to do nothing but put some gloves on and start painting. POR 15 is a one coat self-leveling paint that will bond to rust and stop ALL future rust from forming. You can now get it in several colors other than black. For a complete floor you will only need a quart. We did a complete frame and chassis of a 70 She-velle with plenty of rust and it looks great.

 

Nothing and I mean NOTHING is BETTER than POR 15. I've used it for all kinds of applications and it is the real deal. I've painted basketball poles that had flaking rust and it looks brand new and no new rust for over 3 years. Painted right over the flaking rust and it will not come off now - you can pick at it and it's staying bonded to the pole.

 

I saw a demo 3 years ago at Carlisle - they took a 4" round pipe and painted a section with pretty severe rust. Once it dried they bent the pipe in the middle of the painted surface and nothing chipped, cracked or peeled.

 

BTW: Rust convertor is crap. It won't last a year in the elements. Used it for awhile on wrought iron outside and rust was back w/i a year. Even topcoated it with Rustoleum. Used POR 15 once and never had a problem again.

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I have tried both methods too and agree that Por-15 is the best I have ever used no matter how you measure it. I was not about to argue my point though against such a strong No No No.

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I too have useed both and offered opinion with out going into some detail about you love for Por-15. I will just say a few things left out. No dought it is tough, not uv protected unless it is bought that way or top coated before flash is completed. Look at there web site, to do it correctly, they sale stripper and a metal etcher to help with the bonding. Not to mention cleanup, tell the man what happens if it gets on him or something he does not want it on. Also tell him about the air bubles that can happen when applied and after it drys you can't even sand em out. You are both right ,ya'll love it! I can't stand the CRAP.

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PuPu, I didn't realize I went quite that far under the skin. Oh well since I'm there, I'll go ahead and did around a little more. I too have used both and will be happy to provide a little on the negative side to your love for POR-15 that neither has brought up.

1)Try the mess this stuff leaves if your not carefull, gloves? You need to protect everything you don't want it to come in contact with. It simply does not come off , no mater what you use especially your skin!

2)Be sure and buy what you need , the stuff starts setting up as soon as you open can.There right on the amount for floors. Any more and you waste you $.

3)Check out the product web site , there you'll find to apply correctly they sell stripper & metal etch to help bonding. More $ needed for it to be done correctly not one coat as stated .

4)Be ownest with the man and tell him about the bubbles that can and will come up in the stuff and you can not sand it when dry and it is advertized as a metal filler?

5) If used under the hood or an area that will get direct sunlight you need to by the uv protected type or apply a top coat before flash is completed. This stuff drys and they are correct its so slick nothing will stick to it.

Sorry about that, just had to complain about that Crap.

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