what is this worth

[russ69coupe 3]

That was what I thought, but I couldn't remember. It has been almost a year since I have seen them. I knew 3/8ths was in the ball park, so I used that.

 

Must post more. think man think.

Just kidding. My problem is sometimes I think of stuff after I sent it, and I forget that I could do an edit instead of a new reply. Working 12 hour days and getting less than 5 hours sleep a night this week. I am not too sure what day it is anymore. :-)

 

Russ

[iranmeba 10]

hey and thanks for all the info, i live in seattle so the climate here is pretty moist at times. i haven't seen the actual car and the owner now says that he purchased it with the primer already on it so that makes me kind of skeptical. Where on the car should I look for rust and how should i go about doing that. its kinda hard for me to get down there because i don't drive yet so if i can get a list of everything to do at once i would appreciate it. also do you think it would really be fair to offer 2k when hes asking 4.25k? i mean i'd do it but i don't want to insult the owner, you know what i mean?

[iranmeba 10]

hey and thanks for all the info, i live in seattle so the climate here is pretty moist at times. i haven't seen the actual car and the owner now says that he purchased it with the primer already on it so that makes me kind of skeptical. Where on the car should I look for rust and how should i go about doing that. its kinda hard for me to get down there because i don't drive yet so if i can get a list of everything to do at once i would appreciate it. also do you think it would really be fair to offer 2k when hes asking 4.25k? i mean i'd do it but i don't want to insult the owner, you know what i mean?

[russ69coupe 3]

Rust can be just about anywhere on a Mustang. They were not meant to last very long. Anywhere there is a joint , seam, lip, there can be rust. Or a flat spot. Anywhere water can pool for any length of time.

Main places on a 69 are the floors, torque boxes, frame rails, lower quarter panels, lower doors, corners, fender aprons along the frame rails, really almost anywhere. I shouldn't have taken down my site for the car I am getting rid of this weekend. It had rust. Lots of it. :-)

Seattle is moist. Yep, have heard that. :-0 One of my best friends moved up there from Phoenix. Not a car guy though. Well, he would like the new Mustangs.

 

Don't worry about insulting the owner. This car is not something that you can't find another example of easily. If he knows about Mustangs he is insulting everyone by the asking price. If not, he needs to learn, or at least you don't need to learn the wrong way to buy a car.

What is the primer over? The factory paint, or bare metal? It will rust very fast with only primer up there if bare metal is all that is under it.

Look for a pm, I will give you some other info that may help out.

Russ

[russ69coupe 3]

Rust can be just about anywhere on a Mustang. They were not meant to last very long. Anywhere there is a joint , seam, lip, there can be rust. Or a flat spot. Anywhere water can pool for any length of time.

Main places on a 69 are the floors, torque boxes, frame rails, lower quarter panels, lower doors, corners, fender aprons along the frame rails, really almost anywhere. I shouldn't have taken down my site for the car I am getting rid of this weekend. It had rust. Lots of it. :-)

Seattle is moist. Yep, have heard that. :-0 One of my best friends moved up there from Phoenix. Not a car guy though. Well, he would like the new Mustangs.

 

Don't worry about insulting the owner. This car is not something that you can't find another example of easily. If he knows about Mustangs he is insulting everyone by the asking price. If not, he needs to learn, or at least you don't need to learn the wrong way to buy a car.

What is the primer over? The factory paint, or bare metal? It will rust very fast with only primer up there if bare metal is all that is under it.

Look for a pm, I will give you some other info that may help out.

Russ

[Pakrat 1,043]

hey and thanks for all the info, i live in seattle so the climate here is pretty moist at times. i haven't seen the actual car and the owner now says that he purchased it with the primer already on it so that makes me kind of skeptical. Where on the car should I look for rust and how should i go about doing that. its kinda hard for me to get down there because i don't drive yet so if i can get a list of everything to do at once i would appreciate it. also do you think it would really be fair to offer 2k when hes asking 4.25k? i mean i'd do it but i don't want to insult the owner, you know what i mean?

 

Here's a nice check list that you can print out to make sure you check everything. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1721&highlight=buyer Since you want to make the most of your trip plan out everythig ahead of schedule. Go online and check out any number of companies that will send you a free parts catalouge by mail, places like www.virginiaclassicmustang.com or http://www.npdlink.com/ for example, this way every item you check off on the list you can look up and see what it will cost you to replace it and add up what kind of money you would have to invest in the car on top of what it costs you to buy it. Take pictures of the damaged areas like the fender so you can get a rough estimate from a body shop. Pack simple tools with you like a small socket set, adjustable wrench, slotted and philips screwdriver and a magnet and an old t-shirt. The easiest locations to check for rust that may have not been hidden with bondo, primer or undercoating is the floor pans and the cowl (FYI: the cowl is the vented area between the windshield and the hood). Ask the owner if you can lift back the rug under the dash to look at the floor pans, also ask if you can pour some water into the cowl. If the water runs out behind the front tires it's probably OK, if it runs out inside the car on the floor or does not run out at all this car likey has serious rust issues. You can then continue to look for rust by lightly poking at the frame rails and underside with your screwdriver and also use one layer of the t-shirt between the car body and the magnet and move it all arond every inch of the car, this will tell you if excessive filler has been used anywhere as an improper rust repair.

[Pakrat 1,043]

hey and thanks for all the info, i live in seattle so the climate here is pretty moist at times. i haven't seen the actual car and the owner now says that he purchased it with the primer already on it so that makes me kind of skeptical. Where on the car should I look for rust and how should i go about doing that. its kinda hard for me to get down there because i don't drive yet so if i can get a list of everything to do at once i would appreciate it. also do you think it would really be fair to offer 2k when hes asking 4.25k? i mean i'd do it but i don't want to insult the owner, you know what i mean?

 

Here's a nice check list that you can print out to make sure you check everything. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1721&highlight=buyer Since you want to make the most of your trip plan out everythig ahead of schedule. Go online and check out any number of companies that will send you a free parts catalouge by mail, places like www.virginiaclassicmustang.com or http://www.npdlink.com/ for example, this way every item you check off on the list you can look up and see what it will cost you to replace it and add up what kind of money you would have to invest in the car on top of what it costs you to buy it. Take pictures of the damaged areas like the fender so you can get a rough estimate from a body shop. Pack simple tools with you like a small socket set, adjustable wrench, slotted and philips screwdriver and a magnet and an old t-shirt. The easiest locations to check for rust that may have not been hidden with bondo, primer or undercoating is the floor pans and the cowl (FYI: the cowl is the vented area between the windshield and the hood). Ask the owner if you can lift back the rug under the dash to look at the floor pans, also ask if you can pour some water into the cowl. If the water runs out behind the front tires it's probably OK, if it runs out inside the car on the floor or does not run out at all this car likey has serious rust issues. You can then continue to look for rust by lightly poking at the frame rails and underside with your screwdriver and also use one layer of the t-shirt between the car body and the magnet and move it all arond every inch of the car, this will tell you if excessive filler has been used anywhere as an improper rust repair.

[69 Coupe de jour 10]

I gave 8500.00 for my 69 Coupe. This was new paint, interior, rebuilt 351W with a FMX. I flew to Pennsylvania and drove it home to North Carolina. I would be very hesitant to buy a car that I cannot hear run. Does he have reciepts for the rebuild? Also like was mentioned before, check it completely for rust, take your time. A quick decision here could result in a lot of grief later. Randy

[69 Coupe de jour 10]

I gave 8500.00 for my 69 Coupe. This was new paint, interior, rebuilt 351W with a FMX. I flew to Pennsylvania and drove it home to North Carolina. I would be very hesitant to buy a car that I cannot hear run. Does he have reciepts for the rebuild? Also like was mentioned before, check it completely for rust, take your time. A quick decision here could result in a lot of grief later. Randy

[iranmeba 10]

what is so awful about using bondo in a few places on the car, i mean i know that if it is in places where the structural integrity of the car can be compramised then its trash but like if i were to use bondo to fill the dent on top of the right wheel well what would be so awful about that?

[iranmeba 10]

what is so awful about using bondo in a few places on the car, i mean i know that if it is in places where the structural integrity of the car can be compramised then its trash but like if i were to use bondo to fill the dent on top of the right wheel well what would be so awful about that?

[russ69coupe 3]

what is so awful about using bondo in a few places on the car, i mean i know that if it is in places where the structural integrity of the car can be compramised then its trash but like if i were to use bondo to fill the dent on top of the right wheel well what would be so awful about that?

Depends on how much (how thick) you have to use. Less is better. Less tends to not fall out later.

It is bad if there is bondo and the seller doesn't tell the buyer.

The "proper" way to repair is to get the metal straight, and just us the bondo like a thicker scratch filler coat. But if it is your car and you are happy with it, that isn't a problem. :-) I bondo'd lots of stuff when I was younger. Quick and easy. Get too much on you can just sand it off. But sooner or later it will come back to haunt you.

If you do go the bondo route, don't use the cheapest brand you can find. btw, I believe that "Bondo" is still actually a trademarked brand name. Go to an auto body paint supply store and ask them what to use. Follow their suggestions as well as the instructions. Just like almost everything, proper preparation makes the job much easier and the results last longer. Later on down the road if you get motivated you can always go back and redo it the "right" way.

 

You know, I just read that to myself. God, I sound like an old fart!

 

Russ

[russ69coupe 3]

what is so awful about using bondo in a few places on the car, i mean i know that if it is in places where the structural integrity of the car can be compramised then its trash but like if i were to use bondo to fill the dent on top of the right wheel well what would be so awful about that?

Depends on how much (how thick) you have to use. Less is better. Less tends to not fall out later.

It is bad if there is bondo and the seller doesn't tell the buyer.

The "proper" way to repair is to get the metal straight, and just us the bondo like a thicker scratch filler coat. But if it is your car and you are happy with it, that isn't a problem. :-) I bondo'd lots of stuff when I was younger. Quick and easy. Get too much on you can just sand it off. But sooner or later it will come back to haunt you.

If you do go the bondo route, don't use the cheapest brand you can find. btw, I believe that "Bondo" is still actually a trademarked brand name. Go to an auto body paint supply store and ask them what to use. Follow their suggestions as well as the instructions. Just like almost everything, proper preparation makes the job much easier and the results last longer. Later on down the road if you get motivated you can always go back and redo it the "right" way.

 

You know, I just read that to myself. God, I sound like an old fart!

 

Russ

[Pakrat 1,043]

There is nothing wrong with a body filler (bondo ro whatever), but the problem is that many folks have mis-used it over the years and that's why it gets a bad reputation. Any and all dents as said should be banged out to there fullest if you aren't going to replace the panel and then a skim coat like less than an 1/8" is used to make it as smooth as glass. Like many of the cars you see built on TV even though my entire car was pretty much straight and clean alomost the whole car was skimmed coated with a super thin layer. After the entire car was sanded most of it was back down to the metal but a few spots that were low and not noticable to the naked eye were left with the filler. Now my paint will look like glass, that is a correct use. There was a very wise Mustang owner once who among is many famous sayings the most wise was "A little bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

 

Think about someone that has a huge rusted and rotted out quarter, a cheap fix is to stuff the car with news paper and what not, lay on a thick coat of filler and sand smooth then throw primer or paint on it. It looks perfect now but rust is cancer and you wouldn't want to waste ieven a cheap Macco paint job on it because before long the rust begins to bubble back thru the paint and when it looses integrity the hole chunk of bondo falls out. Same with your fender, if you fill the entire dent it may look fine but how would like to get the car done and painted and then have it fall out and ruin your new paint? If it was done proper a magnet will always still stick, if it doesn't then you will have trouble later, just friendly advice, not a judgement.

 

Here is just one example for you. Look at the pics of this car, ask yourself what you think it looks to be worth, then read the whole article.

http://www.classicmustang.com/Stories/Skip%20Novakovich.htm

[Pakrat 1,043]

There is nothing wrong with a body filler (bondo ro whatever), but the problem is that many folks have mis-used it over the years and that's why it gets a bad reputation. Any and all dents as said should be banged out to there fullest if you aren't going to replace the panel and then a skim coat like less than an 1/8" is used to make it as smooth as glass. Like many of the cars you see built on TV even though my entire car was pretty much straight and clean alomost the whole car was skimmed coated with a super thin layer. After the entire car was sanded most of it was back down to the metal but a few spots that were low and not noticable to the naked eye were left with the filler. Now my paint will look like glass, that is a correct use. There was a very wise Mustang owner once who among is many famous sayings the most wise was "A little bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

 

Think about someone that has a huge rusted and rotted out quarter, a cheap fix is to stuff the car with news paper and what not, lay on a thick coat of filler and sand smooth then throw primer or paint on it. It looks perfect now but rust is cancer and you wouldn't want to waste ieven a cheap Macco paint job on it because before long the rust begins to bubble back thru the paint and when it looses integrity the hole chunk of bondo falls out. Same with your fender, if you fill the entire dent it may look fine but how would like to get the car done and painted and then have it fall out and ruin your new paint? If it was done proper a magnet will always still stick, if it doesn't then you will have trouble later, just friendly advice, not a judgement.

 

Here is just one example for you. Look at the pics of this car, ask yourself what you think it looks to be worth, then read the whole article.

http://www.classicmustang.com/Stories/Skip%20Novakovich.htm

[mustangmanny 10]

Wow, That sucks. I feel so bad for them. I wonder if they bought another mustang and got it inspected. Buyer beware:hang:

[mustangmanny 10]

Wow, That sucks. I feel so bad for them. I wonder if they bought another mustang and got it inspected. Buyer beware:hang: