Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 Thanks folks for the encouragement and comments. I'll keep updating as I go. I'll be working on a mount for the slave cylinder for the clutch now that I have the trans in hand and plan on dropping the block and trans in for a test fit. From measurements it looks like the shifter will work fine but I'll have to either purchase a TKO crossmember or fab my own. I want to drop it in to check if I have a driveshaft that will fit as well or if I'll have to get one shortened. Just wish I actually had a built shortblock now so I could leave it in.. :( -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thesubhumans 10 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 Hah notice how all the coupe owners reply? We stick together i guess! Anyways that is to bad you don't have a complete motor to drop in right away, what engine do you plan to put in? 302w, 351w, 351C? big block? haha And rwcstang do you have any more pictures of those wheels on your car? I've been thinking about putting those wheels on my car in the future, what size and width are they? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R4K 10 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 From measurements it looks like the shifter will work fine but I'll have to either purchase a TKO crossmember or fab my own. I want to drop it in to check if I have a driveshaft that will fit as well or if I'll have to get one shortened. Just wish I actually had a built shortblock now so I could leave it in.. :( -Stephen Yeah, it might be FE-specific, but I think it's Mustang-specific...the 3550 is about 1" off of the toploader footprint. There's two ways to make it fit: 1) Use a spacer on the bellhousing to set the tranny and shifter back, which requires the driveshaft to be shortened, or 2) Mount it directly with the engine, and cut the shifter hole in the tunnel because the shifter is going to sit 1" forward from stock position (but this eliminates the need for shortening the driveshaft). Double-check the above, but I'm pretty sure it's applicable to all engines (being as you can interchange BB and SB toploaders without any mods). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 And rwcstang do you have any more pictures of those wheels on your car? I've been thinking about putting those wheels on my car in the future, what size and width are they?<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________ no sadly my camera broke :(, but they are 17x8's with a 4.5 backs spacing just becarefull not to big on the tires in the front 235x50 should do fine as for the rear 245x50. i was going to have 245 all round but im just testing width as i go. cheaped place i can find these wheels is mustangsunlimited.com for 999 plus ship which comes out to 1500 or so. i went with kuhmo tires since i was running out of money cuz i need to save up for my tremec. not to brag but wow even seen the owners that have boss and they always ask where did i get my wheels lol but hey i like them alot compliments the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 7, 2006 Hah notice how all the coupe owners reply? We stick together i guess! Anyways that is to bad you don't have a complete motor to drop in right away, what engine do you plan to put in? 302w, 351w, 351C? big block? haha Heh.. yeah I have noticed how Coupe owners seem to appreciate other coupes more than others. Honestly I never thought about the car being 'only a coupe' until the past 15 years or so as the verts and sports roofs began gaining value. Still I don't think I could trade this old car for a vert or fastback... too many memories I guess from way back then to now. Actually as of today I'm pretty sure I'll end up with a 347 stroker motor. I have quite a few 302 and 289 performance parts but with the rev limiter on the EFI computer I think I need some inches to enjoy it. Of course that is always subject to change...lol R4K Thanks for the info. I'm actually going with a late model bell housing (scatter shield) and hydraulic clutch setup so I should be okay shifter wise.. just need to get a cross member that hits the 3550 tail mount. You are correct though.. an adapter/spacer can be used with a classic bellhousing from what I understand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted November 7, 2006 yeah man lemme know what goes on with ur drivetrain just make sure and the bell housing the input shaft isnt longer or shorter. if anything im prolly going with a moderndriveline.com kits they usualy sell inputs to fit ur engine. but yeah if keep it up how much hp r u wanting me i should be around 420 is possible i mostly want to have it as a track/street car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 8, 2006 I keep trying to make sure I tone this engine build down in my plans... I do not want to build another in-town only combo but it sure it hard not to. :devil2: I'll likley end up with a solid 347 shortblock, AFR heads, and stock intake/TB/Mass air and injectors to start with. If the shortblock and heads are solid I can always ramp up the rest as needed or desired. I do keep flip-flopping though since I have a few parts on hand to build a good flat tappet motor though. I have a couple of early blocks, a Boss 302 forged crank, some HD (football head) rods, ported exhaust 289hipo heads and some basically stock (screw in studs, springs and retainers added) 351W heads that could all be used for a decent 302 build. Just need to get some new pistons since the old ones are 12.5 TRW's... and have cracked skirts from days gone by. I just keep putting off the final decision until I actually need to make it happen. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 no sadly my camera broke :(, but they are 17x8's with a 4.5 backs spacing just becarefull not to big on the tires in the front 235x50 should do fine as for the rear 245x50. i was going to have 245 all round but im just testing width as i go. cheaped place i can find these wheels is mustangsunlimited.com for 999 plus ship which comes out to 1500 or so. i went with kuhmo tires since i was running out of money cuz i need to save up for my tremec. not to brag but wow even seen the owners that have boss and they always ask where did i get my wheels lol but hey i like them alot compliments the car. Hunh? I just checked out their site and they only have a set of 17X8's listed with a 4" backspace but for cheaper than $999!?!?!?!??! http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=MW178S+01 The pics look like the old 15" ones though. Did you call to custom order? Did you ever try to put the rears on the front? I was thinking of going 245 up front. I still want 9.5 out back though. BTW Proto, I have been following along with interest, sorry I didn't chime in to represent the non coupes yet and say Good job man! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 yeah i think for custom made stuff i would prolly have to call wheel vintiques, but im not sure cuz that were i got my wheels but my friend ordered them so its those exact wheels thats the only i like about them turns heads alot! but yeah ill check to see the back spacing but yeah thats a gr8 deal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 yeah i think for custom made stuff i would prolly have to call wheel vintiques, but im not sure cuz that were i got my wheels but my friend ordered them so its those exact wheels thats the only i like about them turns heads alot! but yeah ill check to see the back spacing but yeah thats a gr8 deal! I just found them at Mustangs plus too for about the same. http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MPFMP&Product_Code=07463_set&Category_Code=specialty_wheels Their picture looks odd too. I wish I could get a closer look at your's. I have this feeling that these are a different wheel not by wheel vintiques and not billet. Do you know for sure on yours? The Mustangs Unlimited ad says it's chrome?!?!?!? This place has no pic and almost no info but it says Ford Racing and they are only $144 a piece? http://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php?products_id=64162 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 those mustangs plus ad is for the steel version. they do actually make those in 17" but they are heavy SOB's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 those mustangs plus ad is for the steel version. they do actually make those in 17" but they are heavy SOB's So then I guess that means RWC's are the steel ones and not the Billet ones then. I didn't even know such an animal existed. I was trying to compare his pic against a pic of 69boss429's car and visually there doesn't seem to be alot of difference. I guess any potential cost savings isn't worth the trade off in weight though is what you are saying? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted November 9, 2006 the ones in the chop i his sig pic are the billet ones. the cost vs weight savings is entirely up to you, i like them both but i think if you are going to spend the money on a good 17" tire you should really have some nice light aluminum wheels to go with them. then again, you wouldn't have to worry about curb rash nearly as much with steel wheels as you would with aluminum wheels, however, the catch 22 here is that if you do hapen to get some curb rash on the aluminum wheels you can file, sand, buff and polish it back out whereas with the steel wheel you'd have to have them rechromed to fix any curb rash. i'm kind of in that same boat right now. the wheels that i have on the car have some curb rash but i can fix that pretty easily. the 69 shelby wheels i got to replace them have some curb rash and the chrome outer rim also has some rust, rather than spend a ton of money to have the wheels disassembled, have the hoops rechromed and have the centers reinstalled, i elected to add some chrome trim reings instead. it looks pretty good with the trims but would be so much nicer if the hoops were rechromed but i simply can't afford it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 11, 2006 Just figured out that tranny IS actually a Ford TKO after all and not a standard 3550 per ModernDriveline.com "Ford TKO transmission has the same layout and gear ratio as the 3550 but with stronger 26 spline input shaft and 31 spline output shaft and stronger 3rd gear. It is torque rated to 450ft/lbs. A new 31 spline slip yoke is provided with every new TKO that is compatible with the standard u-joints" The trans has the 26 spine input and 31 output and had the yoke with it. Don't think I'll be breaking this thing for a while. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 75 Report post Posted November 11, 2006 In a word: Nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 11, 2006 the ones in the chop i his sig pic are the billet ones. the cost vs weight savings is entirely up to you, i like them both but i think if you are going to spend the money on a good 17" tire you should really have some nice light aluminum wheels to go with them. then again, you wouldn't have to worry about curb rash nearly as much with steel wheels as you would with aluminum wheels, however, the catch 22 here is that if you do hapen to get some curb rash on the aluminum wheels you can file, sand, buff and polish it back out whereas with the steel wheel you'd have to have them rechromed to fix any curb rash. i'm kind of in that same boat right now. the wheels that i have on the car have some curb rash but i can fix that pretty easily. the 69 shelby wheels i got to replace them have some curb rash and the chrome outer rim also has some rust, rather than spend a ton of money to have the wheels disassembled, have the hoops rechromed and have the centers reinstalled, i elected to add some chrome trim reings instead. it looks pretty good with the trims but would be so much nicer if the hoops were rechromed but i simply can't afford it. Sorry Proto, don't mean to hyjack your thread so I'll continue this with B and RWC via PM hopefully. I just wanted to say that I'd be surprised if his were the billet ones because Mustangs Unlimited does not seem to carry those?!??!?! Anyway, I think I agree Billet is easier to maintain and I don't want chrome pitting in 10 years or so. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 19, 2006 Bump for <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:date Month="11" Day="18" Year="2006">11/18/2006</st1:date>...<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> Not a lot of progress but steady at least. I received the Ultrastang SN95 rear disc brackets. Very quick ship BTW. I immediately began looking at emergency brake options. It seems to me that the existing cables could be easily adapted to the SN95 calipers with a simple bracket. I’ll have to see if the throw will be workable on the pedal or not when I re-install the brake pedal.<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> Also rebuilt/re-painted the steering column. Nothing major, just disassembly, clean, paint and re-assemble but it looks much better. As always, more on my site: http://www.Protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-11-18.asp -Stephen <o:p></o:p> Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted November 19, 2006 lookin' good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 19, 2006 I'm really looking forward to following along on your Ultrastang rear kit install and the e brake options, document it well please!!!!!!:yes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 Just a little update. I had planned on many things this weekend. Instead ice, snow and school out Friday changes plans. I did get the drivers side rotor/brake installed and ready to roll. I had planned on doing both sides but messed up one seal a little and decided to wait until I get another. I also picked up a $99 cherry picker over the Thanksgiving day sales so I should be able to test fit the block and TKO this month sometime. I used the "handy dandy back space checker thingy dealy" on this front to see how back spacing would work. Looks to me that 4 1/2" is all you can get away with on 17"s at least with stock discs. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-12-03.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 Just a little update. I had planned on many things this weekend. Instead ice, snow and school out Friday changes plans. I did get the drivers side rotor/brake installed and ready to roll. I had planned on doing both sides but messed up one seal a little and decided to wait until I get another. I also picked up a $99 cherry picker over the Thanksgiving day sales so I should be able to test fit the block and TKO this month sometime. I used the "handy dandy back space checker thingy dealy" on this front to see how back spacing would work. Looks to me that 4 1/2" is all you can get away with on 17"s at least with stock discs. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-12-03.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 you need to check out OpenTracker's upper control arm mod for extra backspacing. he cuts off the front lip of the UCA and part of the ball joint "bubble" and you can get almost a full inch of extra backspacing that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 you need to check out OpenTracker's upper control arm mod for extra backspacing. he cuts off the front lip of the UCA and part of the ball joint "bubble" and you can get almost a full inch of extra backspacing that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 Yeah, I've looked at them before. I don't plan on running that big of tire up front though... unless I go this route.. lol -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted December 3, 2006 Yeah, I've looked at them before. I don't plan on running that big of tire up front though... unless I go this route.. lol -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
