bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted August 21, 2006 yes it is fun to watch, keep posting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarkBuddha 107 Report post Posted August 21, 2006 Congrats on all the progress Stephen! Very inspiring! Keep it rolling... oh, did you get my PM? Let me know... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted August 29, 2006 Clutch update and Wiring, Wiring... Have the clutch master and pedal connection finished up. At least until I can actually have the slave mounted to something to test it with. It really went it quite easily on a 69/70 with the vertical tabs on the master cylinder easily fitting into the original clutch boot location. I also started on wiring.. and that will be fun. I have an 89-93 Mustang EFI harness that will be cut up and melded into the existing 69 harness as needed. It really doesn't look like it will be too bad. I hope to use the existing firewall access point that has the oil, temp and coil wiring as the point where I'll make my own connection to hook up the oil, temp, coil, start/run and start voltages as well as A/C clutch wiring. I plan on going ahead and splicing in electric fan and high watt headlight relays up front while everything is apart and easy to get to up front. More here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-08-28.asp BTW - Anyone have suggestions / sources for wiring harness tape wrap? I am going to use plastic loom but want to re-wrap everything for long term protection. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted August 29, 2006 nice work, glad to see you're making progress. for the harness tape, i would really recommend the original friction tape on the wiring, then put the harness wrap over that and apply more friction tape. use regular electrical tape at the ends so the friction tape doesn't unravel. you might consider getting a couple of packages of the repro harness clips/tie-downs for the 69 so you'll plenty of them to hold the harness to the sheetmetal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted August 29, 2006 Friction tape.. so that's what I'm looking for. I couldn't remember that name for anything and couldn't find 'harness tape'. I had found the harness clip kits in Year One and was planning on going that route. I can't find where I put the originals and I'm sure they were ripped up getting them out anyhow. Thanks bnickle! -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted August 29, 2006 glad to help. you can get the harness clip kit cheaper from Mustangs Unlimited than from year one, MU is like 22 bucks for the complete kit IIRC. i bought one but it has been several months ago. it is a scott drake brand kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 4, 2006 Just a few new things to note this week. Seems like the little stuff can take lots of time. I picked up a 5.0 throttle cable and adapted it to the 69 pedal and firewall. Pretty straight forward actually but I likely will have to bend the pedal arm to get a little lower throttle pedal height. Anyone have a pick of 69/70 pedals for comparison? I also found a new mount location for the EFI computer. I had originally planned on mounting it behind the heater box since the car does not have AC and there is a large vacant spot there. However I may likely be purchasing a full Vintage Air AC/Heater in the future if I cannot get my dealer add on setup to work and I would have to move the computer at that time. The new location should be eaiser to get to as well being just behind the passenger side dash cover. I can provide better pics of the pedal adapter if anyone is interested. It seems like a workable solution that was pretty easy to do in the end. More pics and info here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-09-03.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 6, 2006 The SN95 rear rotors came in today. Now I have two slotted rear rotors and ONE caliper. :001_huh: I ended up with the caliper for $45 no core which with new ones going for $50-$100 PLUS a $50 core I think I came out ok even if I have to buy ONE from a part house. I'm keeping an eye on ebay as well for a right rear new one. Next in line are the Ultrastang brackets and all the little bolts and junk that go with it, some stainless rear lines and figuring out an emergency brake solution for these calipers. Fun, fun... -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 11, 2006 I spent a lot of time on it but doesn't feel like I got much done this week. The rotors I mentioned above are here but the main work was on wiring. I installed remote relays for the Low/high beams and a future electric fan as well as for the ECC and O2 sensors. I also re-installed the trunk battery cable after changing my mind on the rear mount starter solenoid. Little by little I guess... I did start another off topic project that burned up some time though, a riding lawn mower turning into a go-kart. We're calling it the "GoMo" at this time. More here: http://www.AustinNolen.com/GoKart More on the Stang here: http://www.Protowrxs.com/Nolen/Rebuild/2006-09-10.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted September 11, 2006 looking pretty good although, your voltage regulator is mounted crooked and i presonally think you should flip it upside down so water doesn't collect right there where the wiring is exposed to the connections on the regulator. just a possible water damage concern there i thought you should be aware of. still can't wait to see the finished product out on the road. hell, you may have to make a road trip to good ol' west texas and give me a ride. :001_smile: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bswor 71 Report post Posted September 11, 2006 At first i though you were gonna making a racing lawnmower :P When i was i kid my dad just bought me a go kart heh heh. Your son will be happy and im sure you'll have your fun with it also. Oh and keep the progress coming on the car. We're all watching just not replying. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 11, 2006 looking pretty good although, your voltage regulator is mounted crooked and i presonally think you should flip it upside down so water doesn't collect right there where the wiring is exposed to the connections on the regulator. just a possible water damage concern there i thought you should be aware of. still can't wait to see the finished product out on the road. hell, you may have to make a road trip to good ol' west texas and give me a ride. :001_smile: Yeah, I couldn't tell from the angle I stuck it in there that the regulator was that crooked until I stuck the camera down in and took that pic. I'll have to open up one of the holes a bit. I think I'll turn it over as well. The wiring run will look cleaner with the connection on the bottom. The wording was the main reason I put it on that way. Thanks for the info. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted September 11, 2006 Yeah, I couldn't tell from the angle I stuck it in there that the regulator was that crooked until I stuck the camera down in and took that pic. I'll have to open up one of the holes a bit. I think I'll turn it over as well. The wiring run will look cleaner with the connection on the bottom. The wording was the main reason I put it on that way. Thanks for the info. -Stephen you could drill out the rivets and flip the cover over and get the lettering facing rightside up. i've been contemplating doing something similar myself. i was going to get an original style solid state "thinck" cover and install it on the electronic regulator in place of that unit's "thin" cover. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 18, 2006 I did get a couple things done this week. Painted the Cobra pedals and mounted them and installed the white face gauges. Also fixed that crooked voltage regulator..:glare: I did find something entertaining to me any how. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the car long ago and while messing with the cluster found a piece of paper I had used as an 'insulator' on the circuit board to keep the old oil pressure wire runs from shorting. I guess I did this in 1978 since the piece of paper was a receipt from January of that year. I think I remember saying to myself that was 'termporary' until I could do it right. Give me a break, I was 19 at the time. Edit: Forget the link for more pics - http://www.Protowrxs.com/nolen/stang/rebuild/2006-09-17.asp -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted September 18, 2006 wow, those pedals look nice. i finally got my lower dash put back in the car today, with some help from my little brother. i should have put my new gas pedal in today as well but it didn't even occur to me while i was under the dash. i did get my wiring harness re-taped though and reinstalled all of the AC stuff though. i even had to reconnect the ground wire that attaches to the gas pedal bolt too...oh well a project for another day i guess. i still nede to paint the brake pedal arm too, just ran out of light today. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted September 18, 2006 wow, those pedals look nice. i finally got my lower dash put back in the car today, with some help from my little brother. i should have put my new gas pedal in today as well but it didn't even occur to me while i was under the dash... Thanks! - I like them much better than they way they came myself. I didn't realize you had it torn down that much but glad to see it getting closer. I'm thinking I'm real close to installing the lower dash as well since I can't really run the inside harness without it. The dash needs cleaning, re-painting and detailing though. I'm still not sure what color to use. It looks like a dark metalic grey or black or something?? -Stephen 2 CiaraFife and Xde4hewkew reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted September 18, 2006 Thanks! - I like them much better than they way they came myself. I didn't realize you had it torn down that much but glad to see it getting closer. I'm thinking I'm real close to installing the lower dash as well since I can't really run the inside harness without it. The dash needs cleaning, re-painting and detailing though. I'm still not sure what color to use. It looks like a dark metalic grey or black or something?? -Stephen the original color is called charcoal black metallic. i just used satin black and it looks good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted October 2, 2006 the original color is called charcoal black metallic. i just used satin black and it looks good FYI - I ran across the color I was looking for at Wal-Mart today. It's Dupli-Color T90 Universal Black Metalic and looks a whole lot like the origional color on my steering column. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted October 3, 2006 FYI - I ran across the color I was looking for at Wal-Mart today. It's Dupli-Color T90 Universal Black Metalic and looks a whole lot like the origional color on my steering column. -Stephen got any pics yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted October 3, 2006 got any pics yet? Not yet. I plan on refurbing the steering column first and then the dash. I've been working on that Go Kart Lawn Mower thingy deal ma-jigger for my son instead of the car. :-( But he has been helping and has had some good ideas on the clutch linkage and pedals that have worked which is cool for a 10/11 year old. BTW - Any tips on re-doing the plastic gauge / dash cover on a standard interior like this? http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/P0002635_Medium.JPG I have a deluxe wood grain set but I think I'll stick with the standard black for what I'm doing. The chrome is gone off the rings but I think I can re-paint them with some chrome paint I have for such a small area. I think the satin black you were talking about would do the trick? Seems gloss would look out of place in that area. -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted October 3, 2006 Not yet. I plan on refurbing the steering column first and then the dash. I've been working on that Go Kart Lawn Mower thingy deal ma-jigger for my son instead of the car. :-( But he has been helping and has had some good ideas on the clutch linkage and pedals that have worked which is cool for a 10/11 year old. BTW - Any tips on re-doing the plastic gauge / dash cover on a standard interior like this? http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/P0002635_Medium.JPG I have a deluxe wood grain set but I think I'll stick with the standard black for what I'm doing. The chrome is gone off the rings but I think I can re-paint them with some chrome paint I have for such a small area. I think the satin black you were talking about would do the trick? Seems gloss would look out of place in that area. -Stephen yeah, first obviously, clean it reall well then spray the chrome paint and let it cure for a day or two the tape it off and spray the satin black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted November 5, 2006 Been a while since I've updated here.. or done anything on the car actually. Anyhow, I found a local deal on a TKO and couldn't resist even though I do not have to have the tranny yet. It was advertised only as a "TKO" but is actually a TR-3550 which is exactly what I was looking for. Ended up with the trans, a couple clutches (Centerforce and Spec 3), Fox crossmember, Pro 5.0 shifter and an EFI distributor. I'm quite happy for the price. I will eventually replace the bellhousing with a scattershield but it will be fine for mock up and building the bracket for the hydraulic clutch slave. Based on measurements the shifter should fit in the existing automatic hole.. just need to get the right cross member. I also pulled all the mocked up front suspension for inventory, greasing and final install. Hope to have the front end on the ground by next weekend. More detail here: http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-11-05.asp EDIT: This is indeed a Ford TKO per ModernDriveline.com since it has the 26 spline input and 31 spline outputs. Should be good to 450ft/lbs.. :) "Ford TKO transmission has the same layout and gear ratio as the 3550 but with stronger 26 spline input shaft and 31 spline output shaft and stronger 3rd gear. It is torque rated to 450ft/lbs. A new 31 spline slip yoke is provided with every new TKO that is compatible with the standard u-joints" -Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R4K 10 Report post Posted November 5, 2006 Sweet, man. You'll love that 3550, I'm sure (I've been keeping an eye out for a steal on one myself). Glad you found one for a good price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thesubhumans 10 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 Wow. Sounds like you got a good deal on the transmission, thats also gonna be one trick front end when you get it all put together! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted November 6, 2006 yeah man im saving up for one of those! keep it up tell me how she fits AIGHT! lol gr8 job! keep us posted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
