Manual drum to power disc, what hard lines need to be changed?

[Phoenix 0]

Helping my friend on his newly acquired 1969 Coupe project.  First let me give a little background on the car.  The previous owner was in the process of building a "race car" when he suddenly passed away in 1993 and the car has been sitting in storage till my friend bought it from the previous owner's brother.  We are trying to get it to drive and stop, and so far we have gotten the engine to run by hotwiring the coil, adding fuel to the carburetor and jumping the solenoid.  Why not use the ignition key?  Because it looks to have been converted to a push button and we did not want to mess with tracing the wires, etc.

The PO was also in the middle of converting from manual drum to power disc.  I'll list what we have discovered so far:

• The drum master has been removed and is missing
• New booster (Midland style) and master assembly was in the trunk
• 1969 disc spindles and rotors already installed on both sides
• Caliper installed on the driver's side spindle 
• Rubber brake hose installed to the hard line on the driver's side, but not to the caliper (label on the hose states 68-70 Mustang left front flex hose disc, #5456)
• Firewall still needs to be trimmed for the booster
• Power disc brake pedal found in the trunk
• Manual drum distribution block still on the firewall
• All hard lines except for the master cylinder lines appear to be there

We are trying to put together a list of parts we will need and cannot find answers on what hard lines need to be changed for this conversion.  Can anyone please advise?

Thanks!

[Brian Conway 268]

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=9b182bd4b539ae0aJmltdHM9MTcyNDI4NDgwMCZpZ3VpZD0yNWQyNjk4ZC0zMDk0LTYwZTctMDA1NS03ZGQ4MzExMDYxNzQmaW5zaWQ9NTIxMA&ptn=3&ver=2&hsh=3&fclid=25d2698d-3094-60e7-0055-7dd831106174&psq=chockostang+disc+brakes&u=a1aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jaG9ja29zdGFuZ2NsYXNzaWNtdXN0YW5nLmNvbS8&ntb=

I suggest you ask this guy chockostang.  Has a great reputation. Brian

[Rsanter 156]

The line size is the same but the nut is different.

in the past I have used the original lines if they are good and simply replaced the ends of the line to put the new nut on

 

the front lines are easy to swap ,if you want. You can just change the nut on the one to the rear

[fastmerc 0]

WHAT TRIMMING ARE YOU DOING TO THE FIREWALL?????????   No trimming anywhere needed unless you have the wrong parts!

69 booster should have a "crooked" input lever on it.   70 booster is straight.   Pedal attachment point is different on each year, but if you have 70 booster and 70 pedal you can use them with no issues......

You may need to modify the "pedal hanger" to accept the booster.    (Knock two giant nutzerts off...)   YES, take it out of the car and do the work.....drop the steering column out...makes the job MUCH easier.

Steve